TheKingInYellows 50g custom blackout bare bottom

[TheKingInYellow]

Yeah I have a carbon reactor, and I'm not running it yet.  Could add some phosguard to that.

 

I do feed heavy but I thought I had built a system with enough export to cover that.  I'll try cutting back some.

[A.m.P]

Could have just been too much, too quickly for a younger system.

[TheKingInYellow]

On 2/21/2020 at 9:40 AM, Amphrites said:

Could have just been too much, too quickly for a younger system.

Entirely possible.  I'm moving corals in this week, and then nothing for a little while.  I'll keep up the water changes, NoPox, and moderate the feeding a little more.

[TheKingInYellow]

Okay, so what's the go-to cure for Dinos these days 😞

[Matteo]

1 hour ago, TheKingInYellow said:

Okay, so what's the go-to cure for Dinos these days 😞

Have you used Chemiclean Red Slime Remover? 

 

It should clear Dinos up and not affect the tank negatively in anyway. 

 

Tiny little bottles goes a looong way. 

 

Just follow the instructions. Skimmer off, no chemical filtration, repeat dose after 48hrs. Let tank do its thing for another two days then do a fat water change. 

 

A lights off period will help too. 

[A.m.P]

1 hour ago, TheKingInYellow said:

Okay, so what's the go-to cure for Dinos these days 😞

Bring up P04 and N03, turn lights down like 30%, stop waterchanges, dose pods, manual-removal running the water through a couple low-micron filter-pads (10ish or smaller) and back into the tank.

That most recent picture doesn't look like dinos though, more like calothrix or another weird cyano, both of which would be routinely mis-identified as dinos and respond to treatment from red slime remover, however an antibiotic wouldn't be likely to do anything against dinos. You could try getting some into a cup, mixing it up until they're just little bits, then drop it under a windowsill and see if it congeals back-together - if it does then it's dinos.

[TheKingInYellow]

I'll try it out.  No Coral in the tank yet so I can do a chemicaln trial.

 

Only concern is I can't really bypass the Clarisea for a filter sock.

 

Thanks!

[TheKingInYellow]

Okay 48hrs after first treatment and lights off, although I didn't wrap the tank so it's still getting ambient light and I turn on five minutes before feeding.  I think it's partially cleared up?  I'm running the skimmer with the cup uncovered so it;s foaming like mad and added an airstone in the baffles before the return section.

 

I'll do another dose tonight, 48 hrs more of lights out and then I'll do a 15g water change and run carbon for 48hrs.  I think it's getting somewhere though.

 

[Matteo]

3 hours ago, TheKingInYellow said:

Okay 48hrs after first treatment and lights off, although I didn't wrap the tank so it's still getting ambient light and I turn on five minutes before feeding.  I think it's partially cleared up?  I'm running the skimmer with the cup uncovered so it;s foaming like mad and added an airstone in the baffles before the return section.

 

I'll do another dose tonight, 48 hrs more of lights out and then I'll do a 15g water change and run carbon for 48hrs.  I think it's getting somewhere though.

 

I guarantee you'll see great results! 

[TheKingInYellow]

I opted not to do the second dose right away after reading conflicting reports.  Did a 15ish gallon change last night, have a half cup of carbon running, and I'll let that go for 48hrs and see where we are.  Lights are going back on today too but at a reduced intensity - max of 65% on the XR15s.

[TheKingInYellow]

Woof this did not work.  Going to try another round this afternoon with the full 48hr blackout.  Maybe 72hr.

 

Any harm to the livestock from this?  Should I turn the lights on for 5m around feeding time?

[mitten_reef]

42 minutes ago, TheKingInYellow said:

Woof this did not work.  Going to try another round this afternoon with the full 48hr blackout.  Maybe 72hr.

 

Any harm to the livestock from this?  Should I turn the lights on for 5m around feeding time?

What livestock are you referring to here? Fish or corals?  I think either way, 2-day blackout should help a lot and a couple of days shouldn’t impact many of the livestock.  Maybe, be sure to slowly raise the brightness the first time you turn the light back on as to not shock the fish. 
 

 

[Matteo]

1 hour ago, TheKingInYellow said:

Woof this did not work.  Going to try another round this afternoon with the full 48hr blackout.  Maybe 72hr.

 

Any harm to the livestock from this?  Should I turn the lights on for 5m around feeding time?

Ambient light is fine it shouldnt cause algae growth for a blackout period 

[TheKingInYellow]

Almost at the end of another 48hr cycle of blackout/Chemiclean.

 

Might let it go 72hrs just in case.  

[TheKingInYellow]

Okay pretty much 72hrs later and there is still some along the back where a little ambient light could get in.

 

https://i.imgur.com/P24NnSb.gifv

 

All the fish look good, did a 12ish gallon water change and I'm running carbon.

[TheKingInYellow]

The brown crap is coming back.  48hr blackout, 72hr blackout, two doses of Chemiclean and it's STILL there.  Any other ideas?

 

In the meantime I put the LPS in, it may just be a matter of waiting out the stability on this tank and I can't leave these guys in QT any longer.  I'll just make sure to turkey baster the rock when I do water changes in the meantime 😕

[A.m.P]

No clue what that algae is, maybe try a round of vibrant?

[TheKingInYellow]

Not a bad idea, it's safe for corals?

[Matteo]

Are the a Dino? Is it possible your tank is just lacking nutrients and is too clean? 

[A.m.P]

1 hour ago, TheKingInYellow said:

Not a bad idea, it's safe for corals?

Yeah, some supposedly get a bit irritated by it, but it usually doesn't seem to be an issue.

[TheKingInYellow]

I'll give vibrant a shot.  Not convinced it's Dinos because they don't get the long boogery strings with bubbles.

 

This could just be a barebottom tank taking it's sweet time to stabilize.

[Matteo]

3 hours ago, TheKingInYellow said:

I'll give vibrant a shot.  Not convinced it's Dinos because they don't get the long boogery strings with bubbles.

 

This could just be a barebottom tank taking it's sweet time to stabilize.

That could definitely be the case. Magic happens in a sand bed 😉

[A.m.P]

4 hours ago, TheKingInYellow said:

I'll give vibrant a shot.  Not convinced it's Dinos because they don't get the long boogery strings with bubbles.

 

This could just be a barebottom tank taking it's sweet time to stabilize.

Doesn't look like dinos to me either, some kind of hair algae, maybe chrysophytes, but not dinos.

[TheKingInYellow]

The Battle of the Brown Bastard continues.  I put in 3 1" Trochus snails, and I'l slowly removing the rockwork to get better flow all around.  I think that the current amount is just way too much and it's impeding the ability of the MP40s to remove waste.

 

You think 2 x MP40 in a 36" 50g tank should be ample but if it's just hitting rock, I guess it's not sufficient.  Taking out smaller pieces every two weeks or so, adding VIbrant weekly, NoPox Daily and MicroBacter7 after each rock removal.  Also doing some manual removal during water changes by pulling and scrubbing rock.

[mitten_reef]

#dryrockprobelm  Do you know if your rocks are leaching phosphate?   

 

I'd go ahead and try to get as many type of bacteria additive and introduce them to you system.  I had success against dino using AquaVitro remediation, aggressive removal thru w/c (i know against conventional wisdom of dirtier tank method) & remediation.  AV is only sold in store tho.  There are other bacteria additive out there that are marketed for the clean-up purpose.   So if any of LFS is open, you may also pick up some live rocks (curbside of course) while you go there?  

 

To me, just because the tank has bacteria to complete the nitrogen cycle, it doesn't mean it has the biodiversity (bacteria AND pods) to tackle the full slew of waste and organic nutrients that are present in the reef tank environment.  I think this is the biggest part that is missing with dry-rock cycling.