Noobie

[Krusnik]

Got home to some toppled over frags last night. I found the culprit almost right away. One of my large turbo snails decided to just plow through things.... Well it looks like it's time to start gluing things down..

 

Ohh yeah, I also forgot to mention I got a deal on some coral. I got a hammer coral (not sure if its a wall type), I saw it has two "mouths", and a Candy cane coral. Looks like one of the heads on the candy cane may have bleached prior to me picking it up though 😞 . But the other head looks to be in perfect health.

[Garf]

7 assorted hermits is a lot for a tank that doesn't have an algae problem. If you aren't target feeding them, some will starve. 

 

I'd slow down, a deal on coral isn't a deal if things end up dying down the road. The tank isn't that old, and the rock and sand need to be able to support the bio-load. 

[Krusnik]

20 minutes ago, Garf said:

7 assorted hermits is a lot for a tank that doesn't have an algae problem. If you aren't target feeding them, some will starve. 

  

I'd slow down, a deal on coral isn't a deal if things end up dying down the road. The tank isn't that old, and the rock and sand need to be able to support the bio-load. 

I thought that the bio-load consisted mostly of fish and inverts. And I've been monitoring the ammonia and nitrate levels on a daily basis since the cycle was complete. I didn't see any uptick in Nitrate and Ammonia levels since the fish were added so I thought it was safe to start adding coral.  I have a bit more coral on order but after this delivery I'll slow down for sure.

 

But with  me having two LPS corals, should I be seeing a decrease in Alkalinity and Calcium? I've been monitoring those as well but have yet to see any real appreciable change in either. They've been there for almost a week.

[Garf]

22 minutes ago, Krusnik said:

I thought that the bio-load consisted mostly of fish and inverts. And I've been monitoring the ammonia and nitrate levels on a daily basis since the cycle was complete. I didn't see any uptick in Nitrate and Ammonia levels since the fish were added so I thought it was safe to start adding coral.  I have a bit more coral on order but after this delivery I'll slow down for sure.

 

But with  me having two LPS corals, should I be seeing a decrease in Alkalinity and Calcium? I've been monitoring those as well but have yet to see any real appreciable change in either. They've been there for almost a week.

No, the decrease in alk and calcium is slower with LPS, and you don't have but a few small frags. 

 

You said you "kept an eye on parameters", what are you testing? When exactly did you start the tank, when did you add fish, when did you start adding corals? All of this information is needed so people can give you useful advice.

 

The fish, the inverts, and whatever you are adding to the tank with feeding, the rock needs to be able to able to deal with that load. You may not have been able to detect ammonia or nitrite in your tests with your dry rock and live sand cycle. The best way to test if the tank was cycled was to dose ammonia to see if your tank was able to deal with it in 24hrs. Can't do that now with livestock in tank.  Not saying the tank is in trouble, but can you say for sure the tank is cycled? Do you know the parameters (alk, calc, mag, salinity, ph) that are the foundation you are working with? What your salt mixes at? 

 

Just keep things as stable as you can, stick to a schedule on water changes. Might be a good idea to have enough water for a larger water change handy.  If you can test everyday, great, if not then every other day. Try and avoid large swings in alk and salinity. And track your results.

 

And most of all, don't just do what some guy tells you over the internet (that includes me), base your actions on knowledge, data and make an informed decision!

 

 

[Krusnik]

3 minutes ago, Garf said:

No, the decrease in alk and calcium is slower with LPS, and you don't have but a few small frags. 

 

You said you "kept an eye on parameters", what are you testing? When exactly did you start the tank, when did you add fish, when did you start adding corals? All of this information is needed so people can give you useful advice.

 

The fish, the inverts, and whatever you are adding to the tank with feeding, the rock needs to be able to able to deal with that load. You may not have been able to detect ammonia or nitrite in your tests with your dry rock and live sand cycle. The best way to test if the tank was cycled was to dose ammonia to see if your tank was able to deal with it in 24hrs. Can't do that now with livestock in tank.  Not saying the tank is in trouble, but can you say for sure the tank is cycled? Do you know the parameters (alk, calc, mag, salinity, ph) that are the foundation you are working with? What your salt mixes at? 

 

Just keep things as stable as you can, stick to a schedule on water changes. Might be a good idea to have enough water for a larger water change handy.  If you can test everyday, great, if not then every other day. Try and avoid large swings in alk and salinity. And track your results.

 

And most of all, don't just do what some guy tells you over the internet (that includes me), base your actions on knowledge, data and make an informed decision!

 

 

I test ph, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity, and calcium daily. The tank was started about a month and a half ago with live sand, dry rock,  and Bio-Spira. As I was testing the waters daily, I saw the ammonia spike then drop and nitrites follow a day or so later with the steady rise in Nitrates. So I thought that was the sign it had cycled. First fish ( two clowns) were added a day after that with others following a week later. Xenia was added about a week after that with a Duncan added a week later. And now about 2 weeks after the Duncan was added I put in the hammer coral and Candy cane.

 

The water parameters are as follows.

 

pH: 8.2

Salinity: 1.026

Ammonia: 0

Nitrite: 0

Nitrates 5-10ppm

Alkalinity:  8 dKh

Calcium: ~400 ppm

 

They haven't really been fluctuating since cycle was complete. I've already done 2 50% water changes. I get my water from the LFS. I can't pass up $1 gallon premixed just for the sheer convenience. I plan on changing the water ever 2 weeks. 🙂

 

[Clown79]

9 hours ago, Krusnik said:

I test ph, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity, and calcium daily. The tank was started about a month and a half ago with live sand, dry rock,  and Bio-Spira. As I was testing the waters daily, I saw the ammonia spike then drop and nitrites follow a day or so later with the steady rise in Nitrates. So I thought that was the sign it had cycled. First fish ( two clowns) were added a day after that with others following a week later. Xenia was added about a week after that with a Duncan added a week later. And now about 2 weeks after the Duncan was added I put in the hammer coral and Candy cane.

 

The water parameters are as follows.

 

pH: 8.2

Salinity: 1.026

Ammonia: 0

Nitrite: 0

Nitrates 5-10ppm

Alkalinity:  8 dKh

Calcium: ~400 ppm

 

They haven't really been fluctuating since cycle was complete. I've already done 2 50% water changes. I get my water from the LFS. I can't pass up $1 gallon premixed just for the sheer convenience. I plan on changing the water ever 2 weeks. 🙂

 

You really don't need to test ammonia and nitrite at this point. Your cycle is done, if ammonia hasn't increased since adding the fish, you should be fine. 

 

You don't really need to test all that daily. Weekly is good for a new tank.

 

Once you have a decent amount of lps/spa then you will want to test alk from waterchange to waterchange day to see the amount it drops to see if you need to dose.

 

I always have a good amount of hermits, they eat left over food as well as other stuff.

 

That is a lot fish though in a 20g, especially a new one. 

 

Going slow is really important in this hobby. 

[Krusnik]

On 5/29/2019 at 1:22 AM, Clown79 said:

You really don't need to test ammonia and nitrite at this point. Your cycle is done, if ammonia hasn't increased since adding the fish, you should be fine. 

 

You don't really need to test all that daily. Weekly is good for a new tank.

 

Once you have a decent amount of lps/spa then you will want to test alk from waterchange to waterchange day to see the amount it drops to see if you need to dose.

 

I always have a good amount of hermits, they eat left over food as well as other stuff.

 

That is a lot fish though in a 20g, especially a new one. 

 

Going slow is really important in this hobby. 

Yeah, realized that that was a lot of fish to add that quickly. I have stopped since those 4 were added 3 weeks ago and have been picking up coral frags here and there.

[Krusnik]

Hey guys I managed to snag a slightly used H2Pro QP-16 recently for a really good price. At the lowest setting it states it should flow 400 gph. I saw the calculator used by vortech and it states that LPS's should get around 378 gph. But it almost feels as if its still too much flow at times. What are your thoughts on this?

[Garf]

3 hours ago, Krusnik said:

Hey guys I managed to snag a slightly used H2Pro QP-16 recently for a really good price. At the lowest setting it states it should flow 400 gph. I saw the calculator used by vortech and it states that LPS's should get around 378 gph. But it almost feels as if its still too much flow at times. What are your thoughts on this?

I am struggling with this also, with my 15 g Evo, I have just over 30x flow. Finding it hard to find places for all my coral where they are happy. Going to try 22-25x flow next. The problem is I have a couple of LPS that need higher flow. I think those will get the return pointed at them, and the powerheads dialed down a notch. BRSTV was suggesting 20-30x tank capacity for flow for LPS, and I tend to agree with that. My dead torch helped me to figure out what moderate flow was...

 

 

 

 

[Krusnik]

8 hours ago, Garf said:

I am struggling with this also, with my 15 g Evo, I have just over 30x flow. Finding it hard to find places for all my coral where they are happy. Going to try 22-25x flow next. The problem is I have a couple of LPS that need higher flow. I think those will get the return pointed at them, and the powerheads dialed down a notch. BRSTV was suggesting 20-30x tank capacity for flow for LPS, and I tend to agree with that. My dead torch helped me to figure out what moderate flow was...

 

  

 

 

Sorry to hear about the torch 😞 . My favorite corals so far are my torch and hammer. I tried to slow down the flow by wrapping a sponge filter around the power head. This slowed the flow quite a bit but was still far too strong for my tank.  Not to mention this thing was massive already. It poked like 3 inches into the tank. With the sponge wrapped around it, it looked hideous in the tank. Looks like I'll be passing this power head onto someone else... Or I might just save it for when I get a larger tank.

[Krusnik]

I just realized I haven't updated here in a while. A lots happened since I was last on here. And lets just say one massive mistake took out my fish.🤬

 

I was at Petco looking for supplies when a shrimp caught my eye. I've heard of horror stories as to the conditions some of the fish are in at Petco and how they have diseases. I thought that the shrimp would be ok to take home. Acclimated it to the tank and everything seemed well. This was on June 7th.

 

The next day I noticed what looked like white spots on my Coral Beauty. Did some research and thought that it was ich. And also come to find out that inverts can also carry parasites... The next day I go to feed the tank and notice my Orchid wasn't coming out and that my Coral Beauty was in the corner pecking on something. It was my orchid dotty back, covered in white spots all over. Check back on all other fish, they all have white spots as well. I try to get a hospital tank set up in time. But by the next day coral beauty and one of my clowns were both dead. I got the last remaining clown into the hospital tank for treatment. Started him on copper, but it was too late. It was June 10th, I came back later that day after meeting with my wedding planner to my last fish dead.

 

Did more research and judging from the speed of the deaths I now think it was marine velvet. Went fallow for 6 weeks and a few days. Added new fish on the 24th. 2 beautiful long fin clowns. Everything's been going smoothly since then. Now I'm paranoid about new additions to my tank.

 

Lessons learned, EVERYTHING can carry parasites, not just fish, NEVER buy from Petco, and Quarantine when possible....

 

On side note, while fallow I decided to get some new equipment.

 

Replaced some equipment: 

Hipargero LED   2 Kessil A80 Tuna Blues

300 Watt No name heater  Cobalt Neo Therm 100w

SunSun Power heads  AI Nero 5

 

 

[mcarroll]

Personally I wouldn't be so fast to blame the shrimp even though it's very fashionable to do that in the position you're in.  

 

I'd even look at velvet (assuming that's what it was since there was no ID) as a coincidence vs a cause.

 

Bear with me on this analysis.....and while it would be human to do so, please don't take anything below personally.  

 

Just thinking about your next round of fish and how you can be more successful next time!  Nothing else! 😉 

 

As far as I can tell, you started the tank in April.

By June it was crashed with all the fish in it.

It lasted 3 months or less.

It had too many fish.

It had too many fish too quickly.

It had too many fish not suited to such a small tank.

It had too many fish that didn't get along with each other – you noted yourself that fish were fighting.

 

All of those things add up to a stress level that started high and got higher and higher as more fish and more food was put into the brand new tank that would not have been able to handle it.

 

IMO the fish were over-stressed when the shrimp came along and would have been susceptible to the common cold if you had sneezed in the tank.

 

All of those things were also correctable and totally in your hands....which is a GREAT thing for the next go-around! 😉 

 

On the flip side, just to point it out, if you had a mature tank full of healthy fish and you dropped a "tanted" shrimp in, it wouldn't matter at all to the fish as their immune systems would prevent any trouble, leaving the shrimp-based spore to either be killed by one of the fish's immune system or to be "eaten" by a filter or actually eaten by a coral.

 

A shrimp isn't going to contribute more than a spore or two of anything to the tank, BTW.....and I'm not sure there are very high odds of even that actually happening....all we know is that "it's hypothetically possible".  A shrimp is not going to be an ongoing source of infectious material for a fish disease like ich or velvet.

 

NEXT TIME FOR FISH...

Go for a much slower stocking formula when you get around to fish again.

 

For now focus on stabilizing the tank and just forget about fish.  Make your corals happy.  

 

Slowly add another coral or two if it fits your plans – they do a lot to help stabilize your tank's ecosystem.

 

Get you husbandry chops down....test regularly....dose for your corals as often as needed....do water changes as you see them needed...etc.

 

Make sure the tank STAYS FED and grows some green algae and some coraline algae so you know that it's healthy.  

 

Make sure you (and your cleanup crew) keep the green algae under control.....upgrage the cleanup crew consistently but slowly until they are slightly more than a match for the tank's algae load at all times.

 

Then when it comes time for fish, the tank should be FAR more mature, microbially speaking.

 

Even so, add fish one at a time.  

 

Give the first fish (and yourself) at least a few weeks before adding more.  This gives him time to settle and de-stress, you time to observe and response...either to him as needed, or to the algae that's almost sure to follow when you begin feeding a fish.

 

When you feel everything is in balance with the new fish (1+ months after adding him) then add another fish if you want.  

 

Same kind of wait as with the first fish.

 

Repeat for the 3rd fish, et al. until you're done stocking fish.

 

If you grow the tank slowly like this, you won't have disease issues....and if you do, they won't be nearly as severe.  You might even escape having an algae bloom.

 

High-frequency and high-severity outbreaks (of disease AND algae) are strongly associated with immature or disturbed tanks.  

 

QT tanks are often no better or even worse than an immature display tank if not done right, so be wary thinking that QT is a magic bullet.  It's a tool.  And like any other can be used or misused.

 

Honestly, if I were in your shoes I'd go back and do more or less the same thing (assuming you'd still want that same tank again) but on a glacially slow pace compared to how you did it the first time around.  I don't know that I'd bother with QT since IMO you appear to have a solid source of fish.  (QT doesn't make healthy fish....it's just a tool, mostly for observation.  Healthy fish are more likely to be stressed in a QT system and may even become unhealthy fish there, than they would in a healthy reef tank.)

 

If your source was the issue (selling diseased animals) and not your husbandry/fish stress (making fish susceptile), it would not have been months before you saw the problem with your fish...the shrimp on June 7 never would have come to pass because your fish would have been continually down with something all through May.

 

Stress, on the other hand, is cumulative (all those things at the top added up) and stress works progressively over time wearing down the fish's defenses little by little.

 

When this "progress" isn't stopped and the stress is allow to run its full course, the fish are essentially sitting ducks – vulnerable to almost any errant microbe or bacteria with the potential to be pathogenic, which can be almost anything....sometimes even just normal "background levels" of certain organisms is enough to cause catastrophe at this point....as you found out.

 

Wipeouts are a two-way street in almost all cases.  The pathogens usually take all the blame.  But it pays to look really hard at why and how the fish were susceptible in the first place after 4-5 weeks of settling in/de-stressing time.  In your case, you look back and see they weren't de-stressing at all....quite the opposite.

 

I know this was long and only semi-organized.  Sorry about that.  😄 

 

[Krusnik]

13 hours ago, mcarroll said:

Personally I wouldn't be so fast to blame the shrimp even though it's very fashionable to do that in the position you're in.  

 

I'd even look at velvet (assuming that's what it was since there was no ID) as a coincidence vs a cause.

 

Bear with me on this analysis.....and while it would be human to do so, please don't take anything below personally.  

 

Just thinking about your next round of fish and how you can be more successful next time!  Nothing else! 😉 

 

As far as I can tell, you started the tank in April.

By June it was crashed with all the fish in it.

It lasted 3 months or less.

It had too many fish.

It had too many fish too quickly.

It had too many fish not suited to such a small tank.

It had too many fish that didn't get along with each other – you noted yourself that fish were fighting.

 

All of those things add up to a stress level that started high and got higher and higher as more fish and more food was put into the brand new tank that would not have been able to handle it.

 

IMO the fish were over-stressed when the shrimp came along and would have been susceptible to the common cold if you had sneezed in the tank.

 

All of those things were also correctable and totally in your hands....which is a GREAT thing for the next go-around! 😉 

 

On the flip side, just to point it out, if you had a mature tank full of healthy fish and you dropped a "tanted" shrimp in, it wouldn't matter at all to the fish as their immune systems would prevent any trouble, leaving the shrimp-based spore to either be killed by one of the fish's immune system or to be "eaten" by a filter or actually eaten by a coral.

 

A shrimp isn't going to contribute more than a spore or two of anything to the tank, BTW.....and I'm not sure there are very high odds of even that actually happening....all we know is that "it's hypothetically possible".  A shrimp is not going to be an ongoing source of infectious material for a fish disease like ich or velvet.

 

NEXT TIME FOR FISH...

Go for a much slower stocking formula when you get around to fish again.

 

For now focus on stabilizing the tank and just forget about fish.  Make your corals happy.  

 

Slowly add another coral or two if it fits your plans – they do a lot to help stabilize your tank's ecosystem.

 

Get you husbandry chops down....test regularly....dose for your corals as often as needed....do water changes as you see them needed...etc.

 

Make sure the tank STAYS FED and grows some green algae and some coraline algae so you know that it's healthy.  

 

Make sure you (and your cleanup crew) keep the green algae under control.....upgrage the cleanup crew consistently but slowly until they are slightly more than a match for the tank's algae load at all times.

 

Then when it comes time for fish, the tank should be FAR more mature, microbially speaking.

 

Even so, add fish one at a time.  

 

Give the first fish (and yourself) at least a few weeks before adding more.  This gives him time to settle and de-stress, you time to observe and response...either to him as needed, or to the algae that's almost sure to follow when you begin feeding a fish.

 

When you feel everything is in balance with the new fish (1+ months after adding him) then add another fish if you want.  

 

Same kind of wait as with the first fish.

 

Repeat for the 3rd fish, et al. until you're done stocking fish.

 

If you grow the tank slowly like this, you won't have disease issues....and if you do, they won't be nearly as severe.  You might even escape having an algae bloom.

 

High-frequency and high-severity outbreaks (of disease AND algae) are strongly associated with immature or disturbed tanks.  

 

QT tanks are often no better or even worse than an immature display tank if not done right, so be wary thinking that QT is a magic bullet.  It's a tool.  And like any other can be used or misused.

 

Honestly, if I were in your shoes I'd go back and do more or less the same thing (assuming you'd still want that same tank again) but on a glacially slow pace compared to how you did it the first time around.  I don't know that I'd bother with QT since IMO you appear to have a solid source of fish.  (QT doesn't make healthy fish....it's just a tool, mostly for observation.  Healthy fish are more likely to be stressed in a QT system and may even become unhealthy fish there, than they would in a healthy reef tank.)

 

If your source was the issue (selling diseased animals) and not your husbandry/fish stress (making fish susceptile), it would not have been months before you saw the problem with your fish...the shrimp on June 7 never would have come to pass because your fish would have been continually down with something all through May.

 

Stress, on the other hand, is cumulative (all those things at the top added up) and stress works progressively over time wearing down the fish's defenses little by little.

 

When this "progress" isn't stopped and the stress is allow to run its full course, the fish are essentially sitting ducks – vulnerable to almost any errant microbe or bacteria with the potential to be pathogenic, which can be almost anything....sometimes even just normal "background levels" of certain organisms is enough to cause catastrophe at this point....as you found out.

 

Wipeouts are a two-way street in almost all cases.  The pathogens usually take all the blame.  But it pays to look really hard at why and how the fish were susceptible in the first place after 4-5 weeks of settling in/de-stressing time.  In your case, you look back and see they weren't de-stressing at all....quite the opposite.

 

I know this was long and only semi-organized.  Sorry about that.  😄 

 

No worries. Nothing taken personal and I'm glad that I have others' opinions so I can see things from a different angle. And you may be right, fish stress may have been high and I was just overly excited and just did not notice it or did not know how to identify aggressive behaviors. Which like you said would have made the fish more susceptible to diseases.

 

I stopped buying any live stock from Petco and found a few LFS that are more reputable and were more than forthcoming about how they treat and sometimes even quarantine new incoming livestock. 

 

Also, I learned my lesson and will be stocking light. My 2 clowns may only have 1 other tank mate fish wise. Might be a helfrichi firefish or yasha goby. But that would be weeks/months away from now.

[Krusnik]

Here are a few pics, man I suck at using a DSLR lol.

 

 

[seabass]

33 minutes ago, Krusnik said:

I suck at using a DSLR lol.

Full manual mode can sometimes be hard to get the exposure correct.  I like to use Aperture Priority Mode for corals, and Shutter Priority Mode for fish.  These semi-manual modes will still allow you to pick ISO (or auto ISO) and custom white balance (or auto white balance), while the camera adjusts the exposure.  Selecting auto ISO makes them even more automatic.  Not having to worry about exposure can make using your camera more fun.

[Kapitonov]

4 hours ago, Krusnik said:

Here are a few pics, man I suck at using a DSLR lol.

 

 

OMG, It looks so beautiful!!!!

[Krusnik]

On 8/15/2019 at 11:55 PM, seabass said:

Full manual mode can sometimes be hard to get the exposure correct.  I like to use Aperture Priority Mode for corals, and Shutter Priority Mode for fish.  These semi-manual modes will still allow you to pick ISO (or auto ISO) and custom white balance (or auto white balance), while the camera adjusts the exposure.  Selecting auto ISO makes them even more automatic.  Not having to worry about exposure can make using your camera more fun.

Thanks for the tips. I'll give those a try when I get a chance. Just realized I never took a pic of my shroom garden 😛 

[Krusnik]

Change of plans on the stocking. I went to visit a LFS today and they had what at first I thought was a royal psudochromis, but come to realize its actually a Royal Gramma. Did some quick research and come to find out they are peaceful fish in contrast to the royal psudochromis. Picked up that little guy and acclimated him to the tank and once released he dove straight into the rock structure :(. I really wanted to get a pic of him/her as they are gorgeous fish. That may very well do it for the fish stocking in the 20 long. I had to hold back today, they had branching toxic green hammers for $10 a head!!!

[Krusnik]

Quick update on this.

 

Between my last post and now a lot has happened in my personal life that has really put me in a horrible place mentally and due to all the stress and issues I nearly gave up on the hobby. Thankfully sought help from friends and professionals I'm working through everything and the tank is still going and in fact thriving! I did have a two losses. My pink hammer for what ever reason receded and never recovered but all others are doing great. Finalized my stocking with a helfrichi and cleaner shrimp. Updated pics to follow.

 

 

[seabass]

6 hours ago, Krusnik said:

Thankfully sought help from friends and professionals I'm working through everything

Good; no need to try and fight through everything on your own.  Wishing you continued success.

[Krusnik]

Here are some quick cell phone pics of the reef currently.

 

 

 

 

[Krusnik]

On 11/26/2019 at 12:59 AM, seabass said:

Good; no need to try and fight through everything on your own.  Wishing you continued success.

Thank you, I really do appreciate the support!

[Krusnik]

Happy new year everyone! Just a quick FTS using my cell phone to document the growth of some of the corals.

 

[Joboo]

On 5/21/2019 at 10:21 AM, Krusnik said:

I realize that now. I fell into the typical trap of being a bit to impatient with my fish stocking. I got nervous when I initially realized this and began a daily, sometimes twice daily parameters check. No issues with water quality thankfully but I'll continue to monitor these guys on a daily basis.

 

 

I'm about 10-15 minutes from Aquatica in Tinley Park and Chicago Reef in Orland park. I'd like to check out Gingerbread tropical fish and coral as well. I read that about xenia, so I actually moved the rock it is on farther away from the rest of the rock work last night. As for future corals, I have my eye on either a torch, hammer, or frogspawn. I'd also love an anemone if at all possible.  Maybe a monti or a birds nest near the top of the caves or something.

 

 

I really should have done more research. I saw the sticky'd post about fish and what size minimum tank some where and got really excited. I really should have tempered my enthusiasm some. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble with my fish.

I'll be honest, and I'm sure I will be excommunicated from this forum for the statement i'm going to make..;)......... I kinda like stocking all my fish up front and at the same time(or a few times). I do this to minimize the multiple opportunities of illness every time you add a fish. I then wait a few weeks to make sure all are healthy, then stock with Corals. Not standard way, but has worked for me.

 

I've also had a coral beauty with corals with out issue. However, I've also had ANOTHER coral beauty that nipped like crazy. Its hit or miss.

[Tired]

If you want to make sure your fish are healthy, quarantine them. Adding most of your bioload at once is a bad idea. If one fish turns out to be sick, congratulations- you've just infected all of them with it, and will now have to take them out of the tank and treat. Plus, you may get an ammonia spike from the bioload increase, which will stress the fish, cause them pain, and potentially cause permanent damage. Maybe it works sometimes without disaster, but it's not the best plan at all.