Want to add pods to tank.

[ReefGoat]

My nutrients bottomed out to all zeros when the tank was 3 months old and the dinos reared their ugly head, confirmed with microscope. I beat them from a multi pronged attack and it took about 5-6 weeks altogether. It consisted of a 4 day blackout, raising nitrate and phosphates slowly until they were registering with sea chem flourish (Seachem Flourish Nitrogen and Phosphorus), changing floss daily and blowing dinos off with turkey baster, stopped water changes and stopped skimming, lowered lighting intensity, and the final nail in the coffin was 1ml per 10 gallons of water hydrogen peroxide for 7 days. I now feed my fish twice daily and only do water changes every 2 weeks. Still don't skim and dose just a tad of nitrate and phosphate after every water change. My corals took a beating during the fight though so be warned, major loss of color and two coral deaths (Jedi mind trick and one acro) my tank was and still is too new for acro anyways though so that probably had something to do with it as well. 

 

 

EDIT: I know that the Hydrogen Peroxide debate can be a heated one. From other threads and forums I scoured while searching for "the cure". I don't know what other people's experiences are and I am just speaking from mine. For me it was when I saw the best results of the fight. I think it wasn't just that though, I am positive that it was a combination of everything. 

[Clown79]

1 hour ago, FLARGUE said:

I had success with phosbond. I hear your phosphates can read zero, but that's just because they are being consumed. I also greatly reduced water changes to around 1x 10 days or 2 weeks.

My phos has always been low and adding phosguard increased the dino's.

 

Gfo, waterchanges, skimming works for dino's in  high nutrient tanks but in low to non existent they fuel the dino's

[Clown79]

1 hour ago, ReefGoat said:

My nutrients bottomed out to all zeros when the tank was 3 months old and the dinos reared their ugly head, confirmed with microscope. I beat them from a multi pronged attack and it took about 5-6 weeks altogether. It consisted of a 4 day blackout, raising nitrate and phosphates slowly until they were registering with sea chem flourish, changing floss daily and blowing dinos off with turkey baster, stopped water changes and stopped skimming, lowered lighting intensity, and the final nail in the coffin was 1ml per 10 gallons of water hydrogen peroxide for 7 days. I now feed my fish twice daily and only do water changes every 2 weeks. Still don't skim and dose just a tad of nitrate and phosphate after every water change. My corals took a beating during the fight though so be warned, major loss of color and two coral deaths (Jedi mind trick and one acro) my tank was and still is too new for acro anyways though so that probably had something to do with it as well. 

 

 

EDIT: I know that the Hydrogen Peroxide debate can be a heated one. From other threads and forums I scoured while searching for "the cure". I don't know what other people's experiences are and I am just speaking from mine. For me it was when I saw the best results of the fight. I think it wasn't just that though, I am positive that it was a combination of everything. 

Thank you for the info 

 

I am debating going the route of dosing nutrients. Does the seachem flourish add both phos and nitrate?

 

I greatly agree. My nutrients is very low and bam, the jerks showed up. So I know cleaning is not going to work.

 

I have no issue using peroxide except that it didn't work for this strain and often doesn't because peroxide can reduce microscopic life which is the competition for dino's.

 

Otherwise I have used peroxide successfully before on other algaes.

[Tamberav]

7 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

Thank you for the info 

 

I am debating going the route of dosing nutrients. Does the seachem flourish add both phos and nitrate?

 

I greatly agree. My nutrients is very low and bam, the jerks showed up. So I know cleaning is not going to work.

 

I have no issue using peroxide except that it didn't work for this strain and often doesn't because peroxide can reduce microscopic life which is the competition for dino's.

 

Otherwise I have used peroxide successfully before on other algaes.

I wouldn't use seachem flourish...it has iron and other crap that Dino's would probably love.

 

You want to buy seachem flourish NITROGEN and phosphate. It's different from just seachem flourish. There is also Neophos and NeoNitrate and one other brand I can't remember.

[ReefGoat]

20 minutes ago, Tamberav said:

I wouldn't use seachem flourish...it has iron and other crap that Dino's would probably love.

 

You want to buy seachem flourish NITROGEN and phosphate. It's different from just seachem flourish. There is also Neophos and NeoNitrate and one other brand I can't remember.

My apologies. That's actually the one I used. I apologize for not being more clear. 

[ReefGoat]

Now I am using MEcorals Nitrate and the Seachem Phosphorus to keep the levels where I want them. 

[Tamberav]

15 minutes ago, ReefGoat said:

My apologies. That's actually the one I used. I apologize for not being more clear. 

It's really confusing the way they named them.

[Tamberav]

11 minutes ago, ReefGoat said:

Now I am using MEcorals Nitrate and the Seachem Phosphorus to keep the levels where I want them. 

Why the switch to mecorals one? That is the one I couldn't remember the name. I use the seachem one ATM.

[ReefGoat]

Because I spilled the seachem and just tried something different lol. No real reason 

[Tamberav]

2 hours ago, ReefGoat said:

Because I spilled the seachem and just tried something different lol. No real reason 

Fair enough...thought maybe you knew a secret I didn't lol

[ReefGoat]

No secret just clumsy and glad it didn't spill into tank or sump. Just the floors lol

[flypenfly]

Watch the BRSTV investigations on Chaeto, you need to blast it with light if you want it to compete with your display tank's high levels of light.

[Clown79]

20 hours ago, Tamberav said:

It's really confusing the way they named them.

That is so true. 

 

You mean this one for increasing phosphate

[Clown79]

9 hours ago, flypenfly said:

Watch the BRSTV investigations on Chaeto, you need to blast it with light if you want it to compete with your display tank's high levels of light.

I've tried it too many times, numerous lights including in display. It just melts away.

 

It also won't help if there is no nutrients which is the cause of my dino's.

It's an excellent source for those who have high nutrients but when you have 0 phos and barely any nitrates, lot only will it not out compete dino's, it will die.

 

 

 

[flypenfly]

That's true. My totally unscientific guess is that Dinos and other nuisance algae have a fuel source that aren't our traditional nutrients. They get used up and exported out via skimmer, media, water changes, or manual removal... it's usually a phase IMO.

[Clown79]

6 minutes ago, flypenfly said:

That's true. My totally unscientific guess is that Dinos and other nuisance algae have a fuel source that aren't our traditional nutrients. They get used up and exported out via skimmer, media, water changes, or manual removal... it's usually a phase IMO.

With most algae but dino's is different. They don't normally phase out.

[luckie1966]

On ‎3‎/‎19‎/‎2019 at 1:03 PM, JBM said:

Its a shame your not more local. A local guy i know cultivates tisbe all the time.

I stocked my tank last year tisbe and I have too constantly pick them out of my floss, socks...… For algae I cultivate both chaeto and even better Is Ulva lettuce.

[ReefGoat]

7 hours ago, Clown79 said:

That is so true. 

 

You mean this one for increasing phosphate

That's what I use for phosphate 

[ReefGoat]