What kind of algae is this?

[ZR2]

I have been battling a slimy green algae for weeks now and it appears to have strands that move with the current. It is a dark green for the most part. It blankets on the sand bed and you can actually roll it up with your finger. It is also growing bad on the rocks. I have scrub the tank down with a tooth brush and removed the Algae and it keeps coming back. 2 days ago I added a power head and 6 cerith snails. I have removed algae and done water changes many times and I am still losing the battle. 

 

Phosphates hardly register when I test for them. I assume that algae is consuming the phosphates quicker than the test can detect them. I have even changed the way I feed the fish. I use frozen mysis blocks and I drain them into a net before putting the food in to keep the shrimp water out of the tank. 

 

I want  to get rid of the algae in the quickest and cheapest way. I am trying to avoid the chemical route as I do not want to hook up a slimmer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have attached close up pictures of the algae and the tank. 

 

 

[righttirefire]

Find the source of the nutrients. Manually remove. And lights out. The tank looks "new" so it might be a cause of settling.

Whats the water quality of the waterchange water and top off? Rodi, LFS, or sink?

Those 2 fish could omly eat 2 or 3 flakes of food every other day. Remember their stomachs are about the size of their eye balls.

[ReefGoat]

You weren't lying. That's some green algae. Looks radioactive lol. If I'm not mistaken Cyano comes in a few different colors. Not just red. Looks alot like red slime cyano..........just green.......really green. Good luck 

[ZR2]

1 hour ago, righttirefire said:

Find the source of the nutrients. Manually remove. And lights out. The tank looks "new" so it might be a cause of settling.

Whats the water quality of the waterchange water and top off? Rodi, LFS, or sink?

Those 2 fish could omly eat 2 or 3 flakes of food every other day. Remember their stomachs are about the size of their eye balls.

The tank is a little over 2 months old. I only put a small chunk of the mysis shrimp in, so maybe I should scale it back even more? I usually feed them everyday. I also have a strawberry crab so some have to sink to the bottom for him too. I use nitri-seawater and it’s dilluted with distilled. I have tested the mix and there are no traceable phosphates or nitrates in the mix. I also have a hard time keeping to a light schedule because the fluval light has to be manuallly turned on. I plan on changing out the light at some point 

[Oldsalt01]

Ya got a great case of cyano there, I believe. The powerhead should help. Try sucking it out during water changes. Scrubbing it in the tank only puts it into suspension and that just spreads it. Not necessarily dependent on lighting schedule. Usually an indication of poor flow. Just part of the new tank syndrome. It will go away as the tank matures. You can use a net to scoop it off the sand. 

[righttirefire]

32 minutes ago, ZR2 said:

The tank is a little over 2 months old. I only put a small chunk of the mysis shrimp in, so maybe I should scale it back even more? I usually feed them everyday. I also have a strawberry crab so some have to sink to the bottom for him too. I use nitri-seawater and it’s dilluted with distilled. I have tested the mix and there are no traceable phosphates or nitrates in the mix. I also have a hard time keeping to a light schedule because the fluval light has to be manuallly turned on. I plan on changing out the light at some point 

I use wall timers. https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Outlet/dp/B071KXV73N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=YYBPT86LGTFT&keywords=dual+outlet+timer+independent&qid=1550871156&s=gateway&sprefix=dual+outlet+timer&sr=8-3

Not this exact one. But one similar dual outlet that are independently controlled

[ZR2]

9 minutes ago, Oldsalt01 said:

Ya got a great case of cyano there, I believe. The powerhead should help. Try sucking it out during water changes. Scrubbing it in the tank only puts it into suspension and that just spreads it. Not necessarily dependent on lighting schedule. Usually an indication of poor flow. Just part of the new tank syndrome. It will go away as the tank matures. You can use a net to scoop it off the sand. 

The strange thing is when I try vacuuming it up it will not pick it up. 

[Oldsalt01]

Can you blow it off with a turkey baster? If so, turn off the pumps, get it into the water column and suck it out. Cut ur feedings to every other day and see if that helps reduce it. I’m guessing maybe it’s coming in with or being fed by the “nutri-water”, although what that is I have no idea. Sounds kinda gimicky to me. Just my $.02

[Naekuh]

i have never seen cyano that radioactive before... lol....  

At least i think its cyano.... 

[coryscritch]

Maybe get a different brand of distilled water? Just throwing that out there. 

[Superdave]

I would cut off lights entirely for several days, maybe even a week. Cover whole tank with a garbage bag if there are windows in the room. 

 

The cheapest light/lamp timer at hardware store/Home Depot/etc will work just fine. That’s all I’ve ever used for years. 

 

If you cut back on food, cut back lights, keep up your scrubbing regime you will beat it. I battled way worse and it eventually will pass. My algae battles the stuff was over an inch thick and as dense as a sponge I left it get so bad.

 

New tanks have cycles of all sorts but good part is you’ll learn from experience!

 

Good luck!

[ZR2]

1 hour ago, Oldsalt01 said:

Can you blow it off with a turkey baster? If so, turn off the pumps, get it into the water column and suck it out. Cut ur feedings to every other day and see if that helps reduce it. I’m guessing maybe it’s coming in with or being fed by the “nutri-water”, although what that is I have no idea. Sounds kinda gimicky to me. Just my $.02

It only comes off if I brush the rock with a tooth brush. It’s slimy and does come off with some scrubbing. It’s nutri-seawater, it’s a filtered saltwater that already has the natural elements found in sea water because it is real sea water. I have tested the mix and there is nothing detectable in it that would cause the algae. I think maybe the phosphates were high after the cycle and the Algae started to grow and it just keeps spreading. 

[ZR2]

1 hour ago, Naekuh said:

i have never seen cyano that radioactive before... lol....  

At least i think its cyano.... 

Haha it’s interesting that’s for sure 

[ZR2]

45 minutes ago, Superdave said:

I would cut off lights entirely for several days, maybe even a week. Cover whole tank with a garbage bag if there are windows in the room. 

 

The cheapest light/lamp timer at hardware store/Home Depot/etc will work just fine. That’s all I’ve ever used for years. 

 

If you cut back on food, cut back lights, keep up your scrubbing regime you will beat it. I battled way worse and it eventually will pass. My algae battles the stuff was over an inch thick and as dense as a sponge I left it get so bad.

 

New tanks have cycles of all sorts but good part is you’ll learn from experience!

 

Good luck!

I can’t think of anything that is currently causing the algae other than food and that maybe after the cycle, the conditions were right for algae to grow? And now it’s strong enough where it will not go away. After you killed the lights and scrubbed the algae, did it ever come back again? 

[Superdave]

I did lights out, several scrubbings, and cut back on feeding and over several weeks I got rid of it. Used some phosguard as well. 

 

New tanks just go through this so there is usually nothing you can do to prevent it. My tank was over 10+ years old so my algae was a different sort. 

 

Be patient and know eveyone deals with this at some point!

 

 

[ZR2]

1 hour ago, Superdave said:

I did lights out, several scrubbings, and cut back on feeding and over several weeks I got rid of it. Used some phosguard as well. 

 

New tanks just go through this so there is usually nothing you can do to prevent it. My tank was over 10+ years old so my algae was a different sort. 

 

Be patient and know eveyone deals with this at some point!

 

 

Will my fish be okay without the lights for a week? I was going to tape some brown paper bags over the glass to stop any light from getting in 

[Superdave]

Fish will definitely be fine without the lights!  

 

I would tank off the bag (whatever you use) once or twice a day to let in some fresh air.  

 

Basically algae only grows if it has nutrient and or a light source.  You are simply trying to cut back (starve out) the algae.  

 

Moving forward you will want to try and keep the algae in check by keeping the nutrient level from getting to high.  A light timer would be a good idea as well--the cheap $5 type at Home Depot, etc. will work just fine.   8 hours is plenty.   Never, ever use any water other than pure reverse osmosis (RO) water.  Anything else will just add to your algae problem in the long run.  I buy mine (and saltwater premixed) from my local fish store.  Since I just have a 5.5 gallon, it is easier and efficient time wise to buy and always have it ready to go for top offs, water changes, etc.  I used to buy salt and mix it, but that takes time, has to be measured precisely, etc.  I pay around less than a $1 (maybe 50 cents?) a gallon for freshwater and $1.50 I think for saltwater--totally worth it for me.  Don't feed the fish so much, get a good clean up crew (snails, crabs, etc.), vacuum your sand for pick up extra waste, and do more frequent water changes.  Consider adding some chemical filtration (phosguard, etc.) if you want--many reefers use something similar.  

 

In the long run, your live rock and live sand will develop enough beneficial bacteria to break down most of your nutrients/waste if you aren't taxing the system too much.  

 

Good luck!

[ZR2]

3 hours ago, Superdave said:

Fish will definitely be fine without the lights!  

 

I would tank off the bag (whatever you use) once or twice a day to let in some fresh air.  

 

Basically algae only grows if it has nutrient and or a light source.  You are simply trying to cut back (starve out) the algae.  

 

Moving forward you will want to try and keep the algae in check by keeping the nutrient level from getting to high.  A light timer would be a good idea as well--the cheap $5 type at Home Depot, etc. will work just fine.   8 hours is plenty.   Never, ever use any water other than pure reverse osmosis (RO) water.  Anything else will just add to your algae problem in the long run.  I buy mine (and saltwater premixed) from my local fish store.  Since I just have a 5.5 gallon, it is easier and efficient time wise to buy and always have it ready to go for top offs, water changes, etc.  I used to buy salt and mix it, but that takes time, has to be measured precisely, etc.  I pay around less than a $1 (maybe 50 cents?) a gallon for freshwater and $1.50 I think for saltwater--totally worth it for me.  Don't feed the fish so much, get a good clean up crew (snails, crabs, etc.), vacuum your sand for pick up extra waste, and do more frequent water changes.  Consider adding some chemical filtration (phosguard, etc.) if you want--many reefers use something similar.  

 

In the long run, your live rock and live sand will develop enough beneficial bacteria to break down most of your nutrients/waste if you aren't taxing the system too much.  

 

Good luck!

The top of the tank has an opening I was only going to bag the glass because the hood will block light. I plan on getting a new light at some point with more control and better colors. I don’t have a close LFS which is why I used distilled. I have heard of many other people doing the same without issue. I agree with you on smaller tanks it’s easier to buy water than mix it.  Here is the water I use 

[Superdave]

I have never heard of that saltwater, so I can't comment on it.  Not sure what you paid for it and I get the challenge of not having a place that sells saltwater.  It might be worth getting a few five gallon jugs, driving to LFS and then you have several ready.  I know stores sell it for far cheaper than a packaged item like that.  It will save you money in the long run, assuming you aren't having to drive an hour or more each way.  Distilled water should be fine for your fresh water.  

 

What kind of light are you using?  Older fluorescent bulbs can contribute to algae growth due to it putting out different spectrum/wave lengths (whatever the appropriate technical term is) so that is something to keep in mind as well.  

 

 

[ZR2]

14 minutes ago, Superdave said:

I have never heard of that saltwater, so I can't comment on it.  Not sure what you paid for it and I get the challenge of not having a place that sells saltwater.  It might be worth getting a few five gallon jugs, driving to LFS and then you have several ready.  I know stores sell it for far cheaper than a packaged item like that.  It will save you money in the long run, assuming you aren't having to drive an hour or more each way.  Distilled water should be fine for your fresh water.  

 

What kind of light are you using?  Older fluorescent bulbs can contribute to algae growth due to it putting out different spectrum/wave lengths (whatever the appropriate technical term is) so that is something to keep in mind as well.  

 

 

It’s a good saltwater because it has calcium and all of the other important elements in the water and it’s nice not mixing it. It can be ordered on Amazon for $20 and that’s for 4.4 gallons. I can get about 4 10 percent water changes out of one jug. I am using the led light that comes on the fluval evo 13.5

[xthunt]

$5 a gallon must be that good stuff. 

[ZR2]

1 hour ago, Superdave said:

I have never heard of that saltwater, so I can't comment on it.  Not sure what you paid for it and I get the challenge of not having a place that sells saltwater.  It might be worth getting a few five gallon jugs, driving to LFS and then you have several ready.  I know stores sell it for far cheaper than a packaged item like that.  It will save you money in the long run, assuming you aren't having to drive an hour or more each way.  Distilled water should be fine for your fresh water.  

 

What kind of light are you using?  Older fluorescent bulbs can contribute to algae growth due to it putting out different spectrum/wave lengths (whatever the appropriate technical term is) so that is something to keep in mind as well.  

 

 

This should work ha, seems weird to block the fish off from light for almost a week. 

 

[Naekuh]

Why dont you just buy a scale messuring cup, and distilled and make it yourself?

 

Once you know the exact grams needed for gallon, you dont need to keep guessing on each batch unless you change salt brand.

You can also get circulation pumps and a heater so you dont even need to mix by hand and let the pumps do the mixing. 

 

[mcarroll]

At two months old, this tank is still essentially brand new.  It should really be in the dark and without fish at this stage.  Between the dead rock and rushed schedule, you kinda asked for some kind of algae bloom.

 

Naked rock is an available phosphate source (works just like GFO) and a new tank has little or no nitrate coming in to balance that out. 

 

Once a system runs out of nitrates (available nitrogen) it will tend to grow cyano, which can take nitrogen out of the air.

 

Is your light not a reef light?  If it's not, that would probably explain the odd color of your cyano.

 

I would consider adding a chunk of live rock, or even replacing your rock with live rock.  At minimum consider a supplement like arcreef's coraline algae in a bottle.

 

If you're doing anything to filter the water or lower nutrients -- STOP completely.  This includes water changes.

 

Once conditions become more favorable to better algae like green hair and coraline algae, the cyano will pretty much go away on it's own.

 

That won't happen until conditions are stable and there is a reliable source of nitrates and phosphates.

 

If stopping anything you're doing to remove nutrients isn't enough to allow some nutrients to accumulate, then you may need to dose some nitrates and phosphates.

 

You should do something to assure that nitrates stay over 5 ppm and phosphates stay over 0.03 ppm until you have healthy algae growth.

 

Do not overfeed to increase nutrient levels.....we're trying to target nitrates and phosphates.  (Do not underfeed either.)

[ReeferBray]

With cyano what ever you do won't give you a results in 3 days buddy don't stress main thing get extra help removing nutrients and keep up with the maintenance of the tank it wil go away after a while. Your tank is two month old you have 2 fish in there already must have ran into some algae is Normal and IMO good

Dont stress and run around

Cut back on feeding 

Give less light 

If you doing a waterchange a week cut it in half and do two waterchanges a week more cleaning time