Risky Business?

[a_pmech84]

So I have a 55gal reef tank and by the end of January I am going to have to move. I have read the topics on moving a tank and for the most part I'm up to speed on it. However I want change the sand and all of the water because i have Figi black sand and it's more like gravel and I don't think it does a well as the regular white sand. So here's the question if I change all this sand and water now will I have to change it again in a month when I move. I'm sure there are some sideways looks right now but I have thought it through and have a plan just want to know if anyone else has done this and what pitfalls I should be aware of.

[patback]

Why not just wait until the move?

[RayWhisperer]

I dont see why you'd need to change it after the move. DSB's are something I wouldn't suggest attempting to move. Shallow beds are rarely more than an aerobic layer. Disturbing them doesnt present any real problems. However, as pat suggested, why not do it after the move? Wouldn't it be easier to just discard the old sand when tearing the tank down?

[a_pmech84]

I'm having issues with a constant algae bloom and I've done water changes and water test and it all shows good. I've got good flow and a good filter. I can't keep my ph up and the only thing I can think of is there's something in the sand. Maybe I screwed it up when I put it together idk. 

[a_pmech84]

It would be ideal to do all this after the move and that was the original plan. I'm just seeing issues that are stumping me and it frustrates me to some degree. I maintain the tank weekly and I'm meticulous in my opinion. 

[RayWhisperer]

You've been maintaining it this long. Another month wont make much difference, IMO. If you are meticulous, that is. I still think you are better off waiting, but ultimately it's up to you.

[a_pmech84]

Fair enough I will wait. Practice my patients. What other issues will cause coral to fade in color. I have a green star polyp that the green is gone but the purple body is still there and they extend as they should open up nice and big there is just no green 

[patback]

Do you know your phosphate level and if so, are you using a low range phosphate test?

 

I have had that "sand' before and no matter how much I vacuumed, brown clouds would still pour out.  It is definitely a hard su state to maintain. 

[a_pmech84]

That's exactly what it's doing. Just brown gunk just appears. So I'm going to change the bed when I move I will be patient. I'm honestly not sure if it's high or low range it just says phosphate. It's part of a test kit from API

[RayWhisperer]

Lights, intensity, or spectrum, phosphates, or other organics, any number of things. If its held on, I think itll make it until the switch.

[a_pmech84]

So lights are 2 15k actinic bulbs and 2 6500k white bulbs. I know the white needs to be 10k and they are going to be changed. I currently running the actinic most of the day and I run all 4 only 4 or 5 hours a day. My guy at my lfs recommended I try that cycle.

[RayWhisperer]

Well, API tests are pretty basic. Nothing good there for low range phosphates. And 65k is great for photosynthesis, not so much for color. However, not knowing what kind of lights you have, or the power, just spectrum is not much to go on. 

 

I'll give you a for instance. Blue LED is very intense. I've seen a few locals run a dedicated SPS system on just blue and royal blue emitters. Looks crappy, IMO, but to each their own. However, blue in halides seems to be very weak. Those same guys used to run multiple 400 watt 20k radium bulbs driven by HQI ballasts. They had better color, but far less growth. So, as you can see. Spectrum alone doesnt give us much to go on. As the spectrums emitted by those 2 light sources are similar. However, the effects are very different. 

[a_pmech84]

Ok I've got a sun blaze t5ho 6 bulb system. Each bulb is 54w, I'm only using 4 bulbs out of the 6. So in total with all 4 bulbs on it 216w. Should I be using all 6 positions and if so what are you recommendations for bulbs?

[RayWhisperer]

Personally, I'd suggest ATI bulbs. 4 should be plenty for GSP in a 55. If they are older bulbs (due for replacement) some ATI bulbs and a low range phosphates test kit may be a wise investment.  I'm partial to ATI, though, and have no experience with the system you are running. Perhaps someone else can chime in.

[a_pmech84]

What spectrum do you suggest. And thank you for all the options and help

[RayWhisperer]

BRS suggests this setup is best for fish only. Or shallow reef. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/48-sun-blaze-t5-ho-lighting-fixture-sunlight-supply.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAxs3gBRDGARIsAO4tqq3rYzMpxUw41IhzhzhXuVMfOW04uuU4BiV1hVewz2PgvYXhY79L2JcaAuYjEALw_wcB I'm guessing this is your main problem. Those bulbs it comes with aren't designed for reef systems. The reflectors are probably pretty poor, but I'd guess with some good bulbs it would be sufficient.im sorry to say, but considering this is a budget t5 system, I'm now suggesting all 6 bulbs be used. That's kinda costly. 

 

So, I'd suggest doing it in stages. This will be easier on the wallet. Start out by adding 2 ATI aquablue special bulbs. Next month, after the move, 1 more aquablue special and 1 blue plus. A month later, you could do 1 coral plus and 1more aquablue, or 1 more coral plus. That's just my thoughts. Or maybe some Giesman 10 k daylight bulbs. The choice is yours, really. However, I'd get 2 ATI aquablue specials in the extra spots on that fixture pronto. The rest can be replaced on an as needed basis, if cash is tight.

[a_pmech84]

Ok I will take your advice. Thanks again.

[Clown79]

I had the black sand. What a pain.

 

I had nothing but problems with algae in the sand and high nitrates.

 

 

Is it a dsb?

 

If it's under 3", I personally would siphon a bit out with your next few waterchanges. 

 

I did that to help with my algae bloom. I went from 2" to 1" in 2 waterchanges.

Instead of vacuuming it, I just removed a bit. Took the same amount of time and effort.

 

Then I would wait to remove it completely when you move and replace it.

[Lula_Mae]

Re: your original question, I wouldn't bother switching sand till the move, but you can always siphon some of the sand out with water changes. That will mean less sand to worry about removing when the time comes, and you can remove the rest when you move and add clean sand when setting the tank back up. 

[a_pmech84]

I don't know that I'd say its dsb. Its maybe 2.5 to 3 inches deep. That is an idea though to just siphon some out tomorrow when I do a water change. 

[Lula_Mae]

7 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

I had the black sand. What a pain.

 

I had nothing but problems with algae in the sand and high nitrates.

 

 

Is it a dsb?

 

If it's under 3", I personally would siphon a bit out with your next few waterchanges. 

 

I did that to help with my algae bloom. I went from 2" to 1" in 2 waterchanges.

Instead of vacuuming it, I just removed a bit. Took the same amount of time and effort.

 

Then I would wait to remove it completely when you move and replace it.

Haha jinx!

[Clown79]

1 hour ago, a_pmech84 said:

I don't know that I'd say its dsb. Its maybe 2.5 to 3 inches deep. That is an idea though to just siphon some out tomorrow when I do a water change. 

Dsb is larger than 4".