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Pod Your Reef

Red Sea Reefer 170


20pilot

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I have been out the hobby for about 8 years and just getting back in. My son was looking through some old pictures and saw my tank and instantly became interested. After going to a couple of LFS I knew a tank was going to be in our future. I came across what I thought was a good deal on a Red Sea Reefer 170 so I pulled the trigger. The tank has been up and running for about a week now. This has been exciting putting the tank together with my son. He has been hands on the whole time, just waiting to get everything fined tuned before the fun of stocking the tank.

 

Here is a list of equipment:

 

Red Sea Reefer 170

MP10

VarioS 4 Return pump

Reef Octopus 110SSS

Hydra 26 HD

30Lbs Live Rock

30lbs Live sand

 

I was hoping to get some advice with a couple of things:

 

I am having a problem with a gurgling noise coming from the overflow, its extremely loud. Any suggestions on getting it to quiet up some. I have tried adjusting the valve but I cant seem to get it dialed in.

 

What speed should I be running the return pump and mp10 ?

 

My plan is to buy an Apex classic controller with eb8 to control all of the equipment. I need to replace the ATO and I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation. The factory one was removed by the previous owner. I have an old Kent Marine Maxxima 35GPD RODI unit. I just ordered filters so I want to start getting the top off going as quick as possible to keep the tank as consistent as possible.

 

I appreciate any feedback, I'm sure I will have more questions as I go along, but I really do appreciate this site and all of the information.

 

 

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If its gurgling from the control valve you need to either increase your pump output if you can or pinch the valve back . Go slow if pitching the valve like just a smidge more shut than wait 15 mins and see if it stops.  If not pitch back more and repeat until it stops

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4 minutes ago, 20pilot said:

Im assuming pinching it would be closing it (turning clockwise). Should I start all the way open?

 

Also I have the VarioS 4, would max be to much flow?

Imo you can never have too much flow . But look at your corals if you add lps you dont want them ripping the flesh apart on their skeleton. Yes pitching back means closing it so turn  clockwise. I start with the valve closed but currently you are very close to getting it dialed in so just work it closed slowly. The water level is supposed to be 1/2 inch below the emergency drain pipe..

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Following...

My plumbing looks different than yours.

Is your gate valve also in the middle?

From left to right mine goes: return line, emergency drain, main drain with gate valve underneath and large pipe inside the overflow to maintain positive water flow through the overflow.

Maybe you swapped the location of the pipes in the top?

Or maybe I misunderstood the pics.

Cheers.

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6 minutes ago, FSTanks said:

Following...

My plumbing looks different than yours.

Is your gate valve also in the middle?

From left to right mine goes: return line, emergency drain, main drain with gate valve underneath and large pipe inside the overflow to maintain positive water flow through the overflow.

Maybe you swapped the location of the pipes in the top?

Or maybe I misunderstood the pics.

Cheers.

Good point in have a 250 and my piping goes return,  emergency,  big pipe over the main return. The big pipe must go over the main return the one that is hooked up to the same pipe that has the control valve

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Haha!  I guess that would make sense. Crazy, I just assumed that it was set up correct. What’s the procedure for swapping it over?

Thanks everyone for the fast responses! 

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That I’m not 100% sure... probably shut off the return pump, let water level lower to just below the overflow weir, drain the inside of the overflow, swap the pipes, restart. Maybe drop a heater and power head or air stone in the display while all this is happening if you have livestock there.

 

Have buckets, towels ready plus whatever else you may need.

 

i suspect some water will come down into the sump area when you loosen those up even after draining the overflow  too so be ready.

 

Others may have better advice from experience  too... I’m still new to reefing myself!

 

Good luck.

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That's what I figured, I just wanted to try and verify before I went and started to remove the overflow pipes and switch them. Luckily we don't have any livestock, we have been allowing the tank to cycle. 

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Unknown, maybe contact Red Sea support first?

In the plumbing directions, step five shows teeth on the parts... maybe to prevent loosening... there has to be a way to get around that I would think.

 

Lets us know what happens.

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North Borders

Hi! I own the Reefer Nano and Reefer 250. The Nano has nearly identical plumbing to the 170 and I've moved my Nano a few times now. To remove the plumbing you need to disconnect the parts in the sump area first. Then from inside the cabinet press upwards on the pipe like you're going to push it up and out WHILE turning it. This will unlock it from the tooth lock mechanism and allow you to unscrew the pipes back out. You will want to have the flow shut off and drain the back overflow area before you do this as any water in the overflow box will be coming down out the holes where the pipes connect. 

 

I own the Varios 4 as well and am running that on my 250. I currently have mine set at the 4/5 power setting if that's any help for you. Judging by your pictures I would say you might have more of a water amount issue than a faulty down valve. The gurgling noise will come when the pipes are drawing air. You'll want to make sure your water level is about half way up from the top of the right most "normal" return and the "emergency" center pipe. Once you get close to the final amount of water in these tanks, literally a 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of water makes the difference in having gurgling or not due to excess air going down the pipe. 

 

If you still have gurgling after this, I would suggest taking the downflow valve apart and cleaning it. This is easily done by removing the rubber protectors on the front and you'll find 4 allen keyed screws behind these protective covers. Remove those and you'll be able to take the cover off exposing the membrane and the pipe joint behind it. I've had snails and debris get caught in mine over the years and it's good to clean them out every couple of months. 

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The plumbing is fine, dont swap anything over. With the valve the controls are very sensitive, to adjust mine I move it so little I question weather i have actually done anything. It will take a bit of time to find the sweetspot.

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Thanks for the responses, it seems like I have no choice but to change out the over flow pipes because the valve is on the emergency drain line. Tonight I will try to take off the return lines in the cabinet and see if I can push the pipes out to swap them out. Thanks for all of the help

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2 hours ago, 20pilot said:

My emergency is on the right and is hooked up to the valve, the center is the shorter pipe with the bowl on it and it is just a direct flow.

Yep dont let people confuse you bc you are on the right track. The shorter pipe that has the silencer over it should be on the line that goes into the sump and has the control valve on it. The taller pipe is the emergency drain and should be hooked to the pipe in the sump that has zero restrictions (the one with out the control valve😆)

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