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Sparty

Sparty's IM 30L Reef

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Sparty

Been a challenge-filled first 18 months, but after several algae blooms, a few cyano outbreaks, multiple lighting hurdles and lessons, A/C issues causing VERY high tank temps for most of a summer, and unexpected needs for equipment upgrades, I think I finally have the tank headed in the right direction. 

 

Most of my issues were the typical hurdles we all have to live through ourselves before the lesson sinks in. Overfeeding, LED settings, filtration needs, inadequate water changes, etc. are simple things you can warn a newbie about, but the lesson is really only learned when the consequence is experienced. (I do have something in common with my teenagers)

 

One of my biggest early issues was a unique one, but my inexperience was a factor there as well. After hearing many wonderful things and recommendations for Nanobox LEDs, I went with a  Quad+. I love the clean look and operation of the light. Unfortunately being my first reef setup with a quality light, it took me months to realize that the Royal Blue channel was not functional. Didn't make much of a difference at first but as I started to add coral it became evident something wasn't right. Fortunately, true to his reviews and reputation, Dave was GREAT and he repaired the issue quickly. It's been smooth sailing ever since and I am seeing significant growth for the first time over the last few months. Even toying with adding some SPS...

 

Equipment

  • Tank: IM Fusion 30L
  • Stand: Custom
  • Light: Nanobox Quad+ (Black with Nat. Cherry covers)
  • ATO: Tunze 5017
    • (5 gal butter churn reservoir)
  • Return Pump: Sicce Syncra-Silent 2.0 (568 GPH)
    • w/ IM SpinStream flow nozzles
  • Flow Pump: Tunze Nanostream 6040
  • Reactor: IM Auqa-gadget 7301 (w/ GFO)
  • Heater: Aqueon Pro200
  • Skimmer: Fluval Sea Mini PS2
  • Filtration: IM Media baskets x2
    •  w/ Top: Filter floss
    •       Middle: filter mat
    •       Bottom: Chemipure Blue sock

 

Livestock

  • Purple Firefish
  • Royal Gramma
  • Starry Blenny
  • Six-line Wrasse
  • Green banded Goby (currently AWOL but I'm hopeful he's hiding somewhere)
  • Red Hermits
  • Assorted snails
  • Pincusion urchin

 

  • Zoanthids (7-8 types)
  • Blastomussa
  • Duncan
  • Acans (4 types)
  • Rock flower Anenomes x2
  • Frogspawn
  • Hammer coral (white... bleached?)
  • Pulsing Xenia
  • Maxima Clam
  • Green Star Polyp island
  • Florida Ricordia
  • Cup Coral

 

Have a move happening in the near future, so I am resisting the urge to add more coral or make large changes. Unfortunately the Mid-michigan coral swap is 2 months away... it will be a struggle to keep myself contained.

 

I am thinking of taking advantage of the move to add a refugium and get rid of the GFO reactor.  I have seen some with these tanks utilize one of the compartments with a light affixed to the back after the black covering is removed??? Any suggestions on how to proceed with that would be appreciated.

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A Little Blue

Nice to see another 30l build. 

It sure is challenging and frustrating at the beginning. More frustrating are the failures of someone who had been around but felt over confident and ignorant. So don’t feel too bad about a little hiccups along the way. 

 

Integrating fuge by utilizing one or both chambers is pretty straight forward. You can use something premade for this purpose like inTank fuge basket but it isn’t really necessary.  You will need a light that will support macro algae growth, razor blade to cutout black filament on the back of your tank where fuge is going to be, get some Chaeto or Seagrapes algae and make few tweaks to keep the algae in that compartment(s)  and perhaps a little tweak to hold filter floss just behind overflow intake to make it even more efficient and practical.  

Some people keep the lights on 24hrs, some use it only at night (I’m in this camp) to help with PH swings.

That’s about it. 

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Sparty
21 hours ago, A Little Blue said:

Nice to see another 30l build. 

It sure is challenging and frustrating at the beginning. More frustrating are the failures of someone who had been around but felt over confident and ignorant. So don’t feel too bad about a little hiccups along the way. 

 

Integrating fuge by utilizing one or both chambers is pretty straight forward. You can use something premade for this purpose like inTank fuge basket but it isn’t really necessary.  You will need a light that will support macro algae growth, razor blade to cutout black filament on the back of your tank where fuge is going to be, get some Chaeto or Seagrapes algae and make few tweaks to keep the algae in that compartment(s)  and perhaps a little tweak to hold filter floss just behind overflow intake to make it even more efficient and practical.  

Some people keep the lights on 24hrs, some use it only at night (I’m in this camp) to help with PH swings.

That’s about it. 

Thanks Blue! Sounds easier than I expected..

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specore

I use the inTank fuge basket and the light linked below.  Works great for me.  I run it 17 hrs/day.

 

image.thumb.png.0f282a628128f5ef70da1bb99e6045bc.png

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DaveFason

Great to see the update. Looks great. 

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Sparty

Finally got around to replacing the factory screen in the lid... HUGE difference!! Wish I would have done it a year ago...

IMG_1412.jpg

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A Little Blue

Yup, factory screen is crap. 

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