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DIY acrylic sump/refugium


Halligan

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I am looking at possibly building a sump/ refugium for my 65 gallon reef build. I have built ATO containers and sump baffles in the past, I have experience with using weld on. My question is what thickness acrylic would I need for a sump that would be approximately 26 to 28 inches long by 16 to 17 inches wide by about 18 inches tall with euro bracing. Would 1/4 inch acrylic be ok or would I need to go thicker, I figured that the baffles would cut down on bowing significantly. Any input would be great

 

Thanks

             Casey

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HookedOnAquariums

I assume 1/4 would be good for that size. all depends on how much euro bracing. but your right in the aspect of the baffles getting rid of bowing. But an 18 inch tall sump? I feel that may be a bit overkill and most skimmers cant even operate in 8 inch water let alone 18. If you were to cut down on the sump height a little 1/2 would be perfect.

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That would be the total height of the sump there would only be about 8 inches of water in the skimmer chamber, on my last tank I used an aqua c remora hanging on the side of the sump, I’m looking at possibly going with an external skimmer as well. I also want to figure in the amount of water that will end up in the sump in the case of a power outage, that is the main reason for the added height, and the euro bracing would be around the whole top rim, ideally one single piece.

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1 minute ago, HookedOnAquariums said:

I see. I think you would be ok but honestly i like going overkill for everything. if it were me i would go 3/8 inch

I overbuild as well, I Prefer bomb proof.

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HookedOnAquariums

well good luck on your sump. Make a build thread so i can watch what you do. Might want to try something like this for my 45 i have in the works

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roll_the_dice

I have made tons of acrylic items in a past life.   I always built that size out of 3/8".  It looks better and is bulletproof, but like you said with the baffles and bracing 1/4" would be fine.  Make sure you use cast acrylic not extruded.  

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11 hours ago, roll_the_dice said:

I have made tons of acrylic items in a past life.   I always built that size out of 3/8".  It looks better and is bulletproof, but like you said with the baffles and bracing 1/4" would be fine.  Make sure you use cast acrylic not extruded.  

Thanks for the input, I knew about cast vs extruded. I really like the looks of synergy reef systems sumps, now I need to put together a stock list, I’m going to try and build it to look similar to theirs. It looks like I’m going to run into space issues in the stand to try and run an external skimmer and return pump, I don’t think I will have heat issues anyway.

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roll_the_dice

If you are going to have the baffles go all the way to the top, like Synergy sumps with the opening cut out in the middle, then you can definitely do 1/4" and I probably would for a DIY project.  I only used 3/8" because I was selling commercially and the thicker the acrylic the easier they will ship.   I recently made a 5 gallon reservoir and made it out of 1/4"....3/8" would have been overkill.

 

Do you use the pin method when you glue your joints?  Can/Will get a flawless glue joint with 1/4" and especially 3/8" and it is easier IMO and less frustrating if normal capillary method doesn't work.  Below is a shot of a glue joint I have on my ATO reservoir I just built.  Don't hesitate to contact me if you want to think sump ideas out loud.

 

 

ato.jpg

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3 hours ago, roll_the_dice said:

If you are going to have the baffles go all the way to the top, like Synergy sumps with the opening cut out in the middle, then you can definitely do 1/4" and I probably would for a DIY project.  I only used 3/8" because I was selling commercially and the thicker the acrylic the easier they will ship.   I recently made a 5 gallon reservoir and made it out of 1/4"....3/8" would have been overkill.

 

Do you use the pin method when you glue your joints?  Can/Will get a flawless glue joint with 1/4" and especially 3/8" and it is easier IMO and less frustrating if normal capillary method doesn't work.  Below is a shot of a glue joint I have on my ATO reservoir I just built.  Don't hesitate to contact me if you want to think sump ideas out loud.

 

 

ato.jpg

I used the pin method it does work quite well. That joint looks great, I will definitely get ahold of you if and when I get this started. I most likely will do something like the synergy sumps, mine won’t be nearly that clean. I am looking at doing a colored back, sides and possibly top to cut down on light spill over inside the stand.

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I used 1/4 inch acrylic on my sump w/ baffles and added a few very small "euro" braces on the top and it's very sturdy and water tight.  Modeled it roughly after a Trigger 26 sump.

 

Sump.skimmer.jpg

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roll_the_dice

@Zuma Looks really good!  With all that baffling, 1/4" is all you would need for a DIY.  The baffles give it so much strength plus water level in sumps are never enough to exert too much outward pressure on the top half.

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22 hours ago, Halligan said:

Very nice what are the dimensions

26"x 14"x 14" total and 1st chamber is 10" L x 10" D, 2nd is 8" L x 8.5" D, media area is 2" L x 6" D and pump chamber is 6" L x 6" D.

 

22 hours ago, roll_the_dice said:

@Zuma Looks really good!  With all that baffling, 1/4" is all you would need for a DIY.  The baffles give it so much strength plus water level in sumps are never enough to exert too much outward pressure on the top half.

Indeed!  I noticed with all the baffles its a really strong box and the 1/4" in plenty thick.

 

20 hours ago, HookedOnAquariums said:

what was the cost if you dont mind me asking

I was fortunate enough to find a fellow on Craig's list whom was getting rid of some large 1/4" cast acrylic sheets so I picked that all up for free : )  Only cost was the #4 Weldon w/ applicator ($12) which I picked up from Tap Plastics; I made some DIY 90 degree brackets out of left over wood.

 

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