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WCO2 Neptune

Total noob in need of advice

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If you change rocks entirely I would return all fish in case of a cycle or mini cycle 

 

Just give the extra clowns to the lfs for free? 

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Good choices. But I'll let a veteran comment on the rock situation

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2 hours ago, JBM said:

 

Key point, if done correctly. There are many things pointing to it not being done correctly. This is not a experienced reefer here. This is a new hobbyist. The chances of it being done correctly are marginal at best. 

 Im on the same side as you @Clown79. Trying to guide a new reefer to doing things safely and correctly.

I'm not arguing anything with you.

 

 

The 80% waterchange really won't make anything worse but indeed lowered ammonia.

 

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It was me who asked about filtration.

 

Now that we know we can all provide help.

 

You don't need to re cycle or restart. Just some changes need to be made.

 

 

Bioballs: are bad, you can see that by the detritus buildup.

Its safest to remove 1/3 of the bioballs each week.

You can remove them all but there is the possibility of negative effects.

 

The chamber needs cleaning. Scrub and siphon out the water with your next waterchange.

 

Sponges: are another bad method. 

When you get your media basket, use filter floss.

It's cheap to buy in bulk.

Cut it to size and place in the media basket.

 

Change it day of waterchange and 1 day in the middle of the week.

 

Buy granulated carbon and media bags. Add carbon to bag and place in media basket.

Carbon should be changed every 2-3 weeks.

Good brands: brs, seachem, kent.

 

Rocks: 

If you remove the current rocks, you have no bio filter. Upon closer look, they do have a liverock look just not the typical look.

 

A good dry rock you can add is Caribsea's Life Rock. 

Its injected with bacteria, man made so no organics in it to cause a cycle spike.

 

 

Definitely get a refractometer and calibration fluid. Hydrometers are notoriously inaccurate.

 

If you want corals salinity should be 1.025 or 1.026 but you want to slowly increase that.

 

 

Many have given tips on waterchange/maintenance. Writing it all down may help you.

Then you have it documented and no need to come back and forth to the thread. 

 

 

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A good app to get is Aquarium Note. It's an awesome app that will let you document your journey. I have it and clown has it. I love it because of all the things you can do. Check it out if you can.

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2 hours ago, DSFIRSTSLTWATER said:

A good app to get is Aquarium Note. It's an awesome app that will let you document your journey. I have it and clown has it. I love it because of all the things you can do. Check it out if you can.

It is such a great help.

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2 hours ago, DSFIRSTSLTWATER said:

A good app to get is Aquarium Note. It's an awesome app that will let you document your journey. I have it and clown has it. I love it because of all the things you can do. Check it out if you can.

 

 

19 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

It is such a great help.

 

Is this on Apple or just android App Store? 

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35 minutes ago, skyscraper2290 said:

 

 

 

Is this on Apple or just android App Store? 

Android. I'm not sure if it's available for Apple.

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You've gotten some good advice here, and you're taking good steps to help improve things in your tank.  Good work!  I, too, recommend getting rid of all but one or two fish; many LFS will give you store credit (you can check other stores if there's any around you, if the one you usually go to won't give you credit).  Definitely use distilled and follow the directions to mix your salt (I've never used RSCP so am unfamiliar with it).  If you decide to change out your rock, the aforementioned Life Rock, or a similar brand, Real Reef Rock, are good choices; otherwise you can get live or even dry rock and cycle in a bucket or two (but that's a topic for another day).  I think you could keep going with what you have, just recognize it's not the most porous so you won't want to overstock.  Keep working towards positive changes, and I think you will eventually get to a tank you can be very proud of!

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Here's what the rock looks like today. Looks like my frags are happier. Doing a water test now. Will post results soon.

20181011_095221.jpg

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Ok results are in...  I think it's ok. Each day is an improvement.. this feels like a full time job omg.  Hope it gets easier over time.

20181011_100646.jpg

20181011_101148.jpg

20181011_101211.jpg

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6 minutes ago, WCO2 Neptune said:

This feels like a full time job omg.  Hope it gets easier over time.

 

Easier, well no not exactly. You just get better gear and more experienced at it in time.  It's like changing a diaper,  the first time your horrible. By the last time,  your a pro.

 

It is a full time responsibility,  your caring for these living things. You owe it to them to do your very best at providing a proper home.

 

Are you following the instructions on mixing the salt correctly?

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Yes mixing per instruction. Thanks... 

 

Update: say good bye to those nasty bio balls and dirty filter pad..

 

I placed large filter pad in chamber 2 until my new in tank media basket arrives... 

 

Tank is cloudy hoping it'll clear up soon. 

20181011_103253.jpg

20181011_103327.jpg

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If I am reading that thing correctly and I don't really know how accurate those things are. You're clocking in at 31 or in between 1.022 and 1.023. When in reality you should be at 35 or around 1.025 and 1.026. Correct that salinity with your water changes. I wouldn't just pour salt in there to adjust it. 

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34 minutes ago, WCO2 Neptune said:

Ok results are in...  I think it's ok. Each day is an improvement.. this feels like a full time job omg.  Hope it gets easier over time.

20181011_100646.jpg

20181011_101148.jpg

20181011_101211.jpg

Reefs aren't easy, they require a lot of time and dedication.

 

Time is devoted on a daily and weekly basis, especially in the beginning.

 

Starting things right can make it easier.

 

 

You have to get the tank back on track, then you will have daily responsibilities and weekly responsibilities.

 

You need a refractometer. Salinity needs to stay stable once you get it to the correct level.

Evaporation effects salinity so ensuring you top up daily with fresh water is important.

 

With a lid you may not have a lot of evap but you need to have a visual to top up to; to keep salinity stable

 

Is there any questions you have that we can clarify?

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salinity :  I was told by the guy at the store that i should keep the levels between the lines..  I'm guessing i've been misinformed because people on here are saying that is low....  I will correct this in my next water change.....

 

Can someone please confirm the correct level my salinity should be ??    Thanks everyone for all your help.... I've learned so much in such a short amount of time.... putting in the work does pay off..... 

 

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1 hour ago, WCO2 Neptune said:

salinity :  I was told by the guy at the store that i should keep the levels between the lines..  I'm guessing i've been misinformed because people on here are saying that is low....  I will correct this in my next water change.....

 

Can someone please confirm the correct level my salinity should be ??    Thanks everyone for all your help.... I've learned so much in such a short amount of time.... putting in the work does pay off..... 

 

You want to shoot for 1.025-1.026 or 35ppt

@ReefGoat put it in a little bit up :-)

You want close to natural sea levels. When you get the red sea test kit it should have an info card with target numbers.

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Between the lines is low.  You want it higher.

 

 

Parameter: Reef Aquaria Recommendation: Typical Surface Ocean Value:1
Calcium 380-450 ppm 420 ppm
Alkalinity 2.5-4 meq/L
7-11 dKH
125-200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents
2.5 meq/L
7 dKH
125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents
Salinity 35 ppt
sg = 1.026
34-36 ppt
sg = 1.025-1.027
Temperature 76-83° F Variable2
pH 7.8-8.5 OK
8.1-8.3 is better
8.0-8.3 (can be lower or higher in lagoons)
Magnesium 1250-1350 ppm 1280 ppm
Phosphate < 0.03 ppm 0.005 ppm
Ammonia <0.1 ppm Variable (typically <0.1 ppm)

References:

1. Chemical Oceanography, Second Edition. Millero, Frank J.; Editor. USA. (1996), 496 pp. Publisher: (CRC, Boca Raton, Fla.)

2. Using environmental data to define reef habitat: Where do we draw the line? Kleypas, J A, McManus, J. and Menez, L.. 1999. Am. Zool., 39: 146-159.

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2 hours ago, WCO2 Neptune said:

 I was told by the guy at the store that i should keep the levels between the lines..

 

Just as a side note, they probably keep THEIR store tanks between those lines.  Many places cheap out on salt and keep their tanks in the 1.019 1.020 range.  Not good for corals, but fish can handle it just fine.  Other than the "cheaping out on salt" argument, lower salinity doe also somewhat lower the parasite infestation load, so that is why some places do it.

 

But for your tank at home, you want it higher.  Especially for corals. 

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3 hours ago, WCO2 Neptune said:

salinity :  I was told by the guy at the store that i should keep the levels between the lines..  I'm guessing i've been misinformed because people on here are saying that is low....  I will correct this in my next water change.....

 

Can someone please confirm the correct level my salinity should be ??    Thanks everyone for all your help.... I've learned so much in such a short amount of time.... putting in the work does pay off..... 

 

 

Your salinity, atleast for the moment is fine. It can be raised slowly over the next 2-3 water changes after you get a proper refractometer.  

 

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Just took notice of how clear my water is and now it looks like my corals are happy..  not seen them since I picked them up at the store... so pretty.

20181011_183424.jpg

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Keep up with water changes, using the distilled water, and you should see improvements. It can take some time for the ugly algae to disappear, but it will with proper maintenance. I good CUC will help with that as well.

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BOOM look at that. Perfect timing for that new gear you're waiting to come in. Good work. Now just keep up with that routine and it'll be golden. I bet your fish are happy lol

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So tried to trade in my clown and goby but no luck.. while at the shop I spoke to someone that recommended turbo start to get rid of any ammonia and to help with my rock issues.  They didn't have a refractor in stock but I did put one on order. Add that to the list of gear coming. 🙂

 

anyone got thoughts regarding turbo start product? 

20181011_202859.jpg

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12 hours ago, WCO2 Neptune said:

So tried to trade in my clown and goby but no luck.. while at the shop I spoke to someone that recommended turbo start to get rid of any ammonia and to help with my rock issues.  They didn't have a refractor in stock but I did put one on order. Add that to the list of gear coming. 🙂

 

anyone got thoughts regarding turbo start product? 

20181011_202859.jpg

I'm not familiar with that product, but many of us have used bottled bacteria products when cycling tanks  (Microbacter7, Biospira, Dr. Tim's). At this point I'm not sure you need that, since you're working hard to bring parameters in line.  The bottled bacteria probably won't hurt, but it won't solve the underlying issues you're working to correct. You've made excellent progress and your corals are telling you so! :smilie:

 

Keeping a reef is always going to have work involved, but as you learn and practice and grow as a reefer, it does get easier-- you'll have a better understanding of how things work and know what to do to correct a lot of issues (and anytime there is an issue, you'll do a whole lot of work in a short amount of time, as you are currently experiencing!). I've been in the hobby ten years and am still learning, which is why I love it so much. 

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