In tank filter

[deetu]

So, I have my black acrylic, protein skimmer (Aquatic Life Protein Mini Skimmer) and waiting on return pump ( Cobalt 900 Multi-Purpose Powerhead Pump)  The first chamber will be filter media (4.5x5x15.5), second skimmer (4.5x5x15.5) and third, return and heater (3x5x15.5).  Because there is so much room under the media section, I was thinking of putting rubble in bag there.  In second I was originally thinking of putting a sponge filter, not so much for filtration but to keep handy for hospital tank if needed  But I think the bubbles may interfere with the skimmer...  guess I can put the sponge in without the filter part.  It's already in the 5 gallon bucket with my live rock while tank gets finished.

This is a 20 gallon high FOWLR tank with Macros in12x18x15 display.

 

Now here are the questions I need to ask. 

Since this is a rimmed tank, there will be a lip on two sides where the media will be going.  Do you think I can safely trim off this small section?  I do not want to remove the whole rim because I will be using the lip for the acrylic lid to hold my light and keep salt creep down.

Second, how do I figure out how to make the weir cuts to the right size?  I tried searching because I'm sure it's been discussed but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

 

Thanks for any help.  I'm so excited but also afraid to make that first cut on the acrylic lol  Have cardboard in there to try first.

[StevieT]

Have you considered a different skimmer?  The Tunze 9001 will work much better, or the new AquaMaxx NF-1.  We had so many customers have issues (basically not pull good skimmate) with the cheap Aquaticlife that we stopped selling it.

 

You can cut small notches in the overhang of the rim.

 

IF this is not a full time QT tank  and a normal reef setup then do not use live rock rubble or a sponge the rear chamber - nitrates.

Weir -  is that the baffles of your insert?

 

 

[Clown79]

I wouldn't use a sponge or liverock rubble in the chambers, they can become an issue. The sponge will become a Nitrate factory, the rubble would need removal for proper cleaning of the area or detritus will accumulate and lead to nutrient issues.

 

It's not advised to put your heater where the return pump is as the changing water volume can lead to heater malfunction, smoking, or cracking.

[deetu]

4 hours ago, StevieT said:

Have you considered a different skimmer?  The Tunze 9001 will work much better, or the new AquaMaxx NF-1.  We had so many customers have issues (basically not pull good skimmate) with the cheap Aquaticlife that we stopped selling it.

 At the moment, I am going to wait on the more expensive skimmer because husband has been very patient so far with the money I'm spending.  I can upgrade in the future.  I'll keep an eye on it

Paul at Marineland said they are coming out with an update to the Ghost.  Not sure if that will be any better

4 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

You can cut small notches in the overhang of the rim.

Wanted to cut 5"x4.5" corner section to make it easier to remove a media basket. 

4 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

IF this is not a full time QT tank  and a normal reef setup then do not use live rock rubble or a sponge the rear chamber - nitrates.

This will be Fish Only With Live Rock and macro algae, not reef.  I wanted to have some kind of media ready if needed to set up a quarantine tank.  I used to keep a sponge filter running in the fuge of my old set up for just that reason. 

 

4 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

Weir -  is that the baffles of your insert?

Teeth for the water to run thru from tank to filter

 

Thank you for taking the time to answer. 

4 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

 

 

[deetu]

3 hours ago, Clown79 said:

I wouldn't use a sponge or liverock rubble in the chambers, they can become an issue. The sponge will become a Nitrate factory, the rubble would need removal for proper cleaning of the area or detritus will accumulate and lead to nutrient issues.

I meant to put the rubble in media sock...sorry forgot to mention that 😉

3 hours ago, Clown79 said:

 

It's not advised to put your heater where the return pump is as the changing water volume can lead to heater malfunction, smoking, or cracking.

Huh, and yet all the all in one tanks have it that way.  How misleading.

I would be able to fit it in with the skimmer.

 

Thank you for taking time to answer

[StevieT]

4 hours ago, deetu said:

 At the moment, I am going to wait on the more expensive skimmer because husband has been very patient so far with the money I'm spending.  I can upgrade in the future.  I'll keep an eye on it

Paul at Marineland said they are coming out with an update to the Ghost.  Not sure if that will be any better

Wanted to cut 5"x4.5" corner section to make it easier to remove a media basket. 

This will be Fish Only With Live Rock and macro algae, not reef.  I wanted to have some kind of media ready if needed to set up a quarantine tank.  I used to keep a sponge filter running in the fuge of my old set up for just that reason. 

 

Teeth for the water to run thru from tank to filter

 

Thank you for taking the time to answer. 

 

You mean Paul at Innovative Marine. Another garbage skimmer no matter what new color they put on the acrylic.  Stay away from their overpriced equipment.  Guy is there to sell and screw everyone to make more commission. 

 

Do you have access to a table saw?  Otherwise you can jig up skill saw to cut the same depth to cut the intake grates. Clamp a board so the saw stops at the same depth. Spacing is more tricky but with good measuring and jigging can be possible. Table saw with a fence makes this so much easier. 

 

If the heater is deep enough and you top off the chamber often enough no worries on it's placement.  Most have enough play. But it is something to keep in mind. 

 

Draining it that low by not topping off would lead such an increase in salinity. 

[StevieT]

3 hours ago, deetu said:

I meant to put the rubble in media sock...sorry forgot to mention that 😉

Huh, and yet all the all in one tanks have it that way.  How misleading.

I would be able to fit it in with the skimmer.

 

Thank you for taking time to answer

Same difference on the rubble. But fish only rubble away. No-No on a reef. 

 

Water levels on the 2nd and 3rd ch will be the same. Heater is fine in either. 1st chamber will mymic your display. 

 

 

[deetu]

9 hours ago, StevieT said:

You mean Paul at Innovative Marine. Another garbage skimmer no matter what new color they put on the acrylic.  Stay away from their overpriced equipment.  Guy is there to sell and screw everyone to make more commission. 

Oh that is funny.  That is reason the I went with Cobalt over Maxi.  I originally called because the leveling mat doesn't have a sticky on it. They changed it because people can't get the paper off but now it doesn't stick either.

9 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

Do you have access to a table saw?  Otherwise you can jig up skill saw to cut the same depth to cut the intake grates. Clamp a board so the saw stops at the same depth. Spacing is more tricky but with good measuring and jigging can be possible. Table saw with a fence makes this so much easier. 

Don't have table saw but have Grandpa's old Craftsman skill (that thing is a workhorse that keeps on going)  We used it to cut the .220 acrylic lid so I feel confident to cutting the .118 black (I'm an artist and have a good eye)  I watched DIY guy and he explained the board trick. 

My question is the spacing.  1/4" x 1.5" x 5?

9 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

If the heater is deep enough and you top off the chamber often enough no worries on it's placement.  Most have enough play. But it is something to keep in mind. 

If I have room, I'll add a small baffle but being a high tank, there is depth.

9 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

Draining it that low by not topping off would lead such an increase in salinity. 

Been keeping an eye on my 5 gallon bucket with the live rock for just that reason 😉

[deetu]

9 hours ago, StevieT said:

Same difference on the rubble. But fish only rubble away. No-No on a reef. 

Yeah, I know everyone here is reef but it is hard to find fish only tank forum and I'm glad I found you guys

9 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

Water levels on the 2nd and 3rd ch will be the same. Heater is fine in either. 1st chamber will mymic your display. 

Thank you for your answers, I really appreciate it.

9 hours ago, StevieT said:

 

 

 

[deetu]

Cut the acrylic top. I'm planning on putting a small handle on it to be able to move to side to feed.

Cut the slits in the black acrylic.  Drilled a 1/4" hole first, then ran up two lines with skill saw

Came out good ☺️  Now trying to figure out the baffles but have to wait for the pump to get here.

[deetu]

done

 

[deetu]

Well, I am happy with the way it turned out except I wish I put the return a 1/2 inch lower.  When I decided not to put the third baffle in, I decided to make the chambers smaller to make my display just a little larger.  Everything fit perfect but once the media was in (I made new media plates with more 5/8 holes), when the water level went down slightly in second and third chamber (like Steve said) it made the pump be just short of being out of the water (sounded like it started sucking air and struggling).  I raised the water level slightly, put the plug in the top that held the air hose and tilted it back as much as possible and that seems to be working but if it was only a little lower, I wouldn't have to worry.

I tried to move the piping around to different ways but with the fit so tight, nothing worked.

All well

[deetu]

Update...

I didn't like that the powerhead in the return was so close to the surface and would suck air thru the top holes so I ended up getting a fountain pump... a little stronger one too and it is working great now.  Aquatop NP-305 Aquarium Submersible Pump 

I also found a small heater that fit in the middle section that was permanently set to 78 degrees, making the tank 76 degrees. Aqueon Preset heater, 100 watt.  My last heater was in the display and very touchy, making the tank in the 80's at times.

I also altered the skimmer so it is quiet now.  Surprised from comments that it is doing a pretty good job.  Again, can take little more leeway because not a reef tank.

Oh, and I lifted the lights off the Plexiglass top with included legs.  The plexi was bending from the heat of the lights and the hair algae on the top of rocks was getting pretty thick.  Plexiglass is still bending so I keep rotating it.  Debating on getting glass.

[Beer]

Acrylic will absorb moisture and expand. Using acrylic as a tank lid exposes only one side to moisture, so only one side expands, causing the lid to bow. The added weight of the light doesn’t help matters.

 

My tank came with a black acrylic cover to go over the back chambers. The lid warped quite heavily and the ends lifted off of the tank rim due to the expansion on one side. It was a long narrow piece, 24” x 4”, so the warping was a lot more evident at the short ends. There was nothing on top of it and the lighting was not installed yet.

 

People typically go with glass lids or thicker acrylic for that reason. Flipping it once or twice a week might allow it to stay somewhat straighter as it will allow the acrylic to ballance the moisture content a little bit better. Though the constant back and fourth warping may lead to crazing (micro-cracking) that will interfere with light transmission, so that may only be a temporary solution. A local glass shop will be able to cut something for you. It is pretty thin and you are fish only, so the slight gerrn tint from the glass isn’t critical, but if you end up going with corals, you may want to consider seeing if they have high clarity (low iron) glass as it will pass more light, but it will be a bit more expensive.

[deetu]

2 hours ago, Beer said:

Acrylic will absorb moisture and expand. Using acrylic as a tank lid exposes only one side to moisture, so only one side expands, causing the lid to bow. The added weight of the light doesn’t help matters.

 

My tank came with a black acrylic cover to go over the back chambers. The lid warped quite heavily and the ends lifted off of the tank rim due to the expansion on one side. It was a long narrow piece, 24” x 4”, so the warping was a lot more evident at the short ends. There was nothing on top of it and the lighting was not installed yet.

 

People typically go with glass lids or thicker acrylic for that reason. Flipping it once or twice a week might allow it to stay somewhat straighter as it will allow the acrylic to ballance the moisture content a little bit better. Though the constant back and fourth warping may lead to crazing (micro-cracking) that will interfere with light transmission, so that may only be a temporary solution. A local glass shop will be able to cut something for you. It is pretty thin and you are fish only, so the slight gerrn tint from the glass isn’t critical, but if you end up going with corals, you may want to consider seeing if they have high clarity (low iron) glass as it will pass more light, but it will be a bit more expensive.

Thank you very much for this information.  I did put the light on pieces of wood so it is no longer resting on the acrylic but the idea that it will eventually crack makes sense.  I was thinking of getting glass so knowing what kind is great.  Thanks again