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Carla3079

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7 minutes ago, Carla3079 said:

Thank you so much!! Im definitely feeling a lil discouraged after doing more research on the tank. But! I'm very thankful for your advice and everyone else's! So I'm going to go for it! I'm off tomorrow and Monday so planning on doing exactly what you suggested @debbeach13. Thank you so much 

I'm sure I'll have many more questions and will keep y'all posted. Thanks so much !

Oh.. and I live in Ga. And plan on getting the rock ext. from a LFS once I find one that is trusted in my area. Is that what you would suggest?

Thanks again!!

I did this exact thing with a tank I bought my son. Filled with water and vinegar and ran the pumps overnight. Cleaned that thing right up. 

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1 hour ago, Carla3079 said:

Im definitely feeling a lil discouraged after doing more research on the tank.

You shouldn't be discouraged.  It's a fine starter tank.  It should work just fine until you get a little experience and figure out what you want (fish, corals, other inverts, lights, flow,etc).  You can upgrade, upsize, or even downsize later on.

 

I kept my first tank probably a year before I decided on something a little bigger.  Then, I kept that for about a year before I went with something even bigger.  Since then I've changed tanks and equipment a number of times.  No worries, just have fun.

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There are some great local fish stores out the there. There are also some that are so motivated to make the sale that their advice is not accurate. Also some have employees that really don't have any experience. Some just have not kept up so the advice may be out dated. Like using live fish to cycle a tank. Although used for years it is cruel to the fish and no longer practiced. Check the prices at the LFS and compare with on line. I like to support the local store but if they consistently offer bad advise I look for a different store. But I buy certain consumables on line because you easily save 30% and of course selection at a local store may be limited. No worries about asking questions we enjoy helping. Have you decided if you are going to start with dry rock and use an ammonia source or are you going with live rock which will be wet. 

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Please don't feel discouraged before you've even begun. This hobby has a learning curve that can be quite steep at times. I'm willing to bet there isn't a reefer out there who hasn't considered bailing out of the whole thing, one time or another. You got a great deal on a good starter tank, and which eventually will make a great Quarantine Tank when you go to a bigger system..... Oh yah, that will happen! Reef tanks are like potato chips or cats. One is NEVER enough.

The one thing that confused me after 14 years out of reefing was the contradictory responses I would sometimes get when I asked a newbie question. Now, if I have a question, I'll ask it, get a consensus from multiple answers, and go from there. Two things I keep in my head: 1) what works in one tank, may not work in another, and, 2) nothing good ever happens fast in a reef tank. I've kept saltwater tanks, on and off, for 50 years, and I still have questions I need answered. So be bold, ask your questions, and take your time to do things right (remember rule #2). We are here for you, and want you to succeed. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.

I like debbeach13's response about LFS's. Find a good one (the local reefing society in your area is a great source for dependable LFS's, as well as used equipment and coral frags, etc).

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5 hours ago, debbeach13 said:

There are some great local fish stores out the there. There are also some that are so motivated to make the sale that their advice is not accurate. Also some have employees that really don't have any experience. Some just have not kept up so the advice may be out dated. Like using live fish to cycle a tank. Although used for years it is cruel to the fish and no longer practiced. Check the prices at the LFS and compare with on line. I like to support the local store but if they consistently offer bad advise I look for a different store. But I buy certain consumables on line because you easily save 30% and of course selection at a local store may be limited. No worries about asking questions we enjoy helping. Have you decided if you are going to start with dry rock and use an ammonia source or are you going with live rock which will be wet. 

Thank you so much! I'm going to go with live rock, actually checked out a LFS today and got an idea of their prices so I can compare to online. @debbeach13 thanks again!!!

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1 hour ago, Oldsalt01 said:

Please don't feel discouraged before you've even begun. This hobby has a learning curve that can be quite steep at times. I'm willing to bet there isn't a reefer out there who hasn't considered bailing out of the whole thing, one time or another. You got a great deal on a good starter tank, and which eventually will make a great Quarantine Tank when you go to a bigger system..... Oh yah, that will happen! Reef tanks are like potato chips or cats. One is NEVER enough.

The one thing that confused me after 14 years out of reefing was the contradictory responses I would sometimes get when I asked a newbie question. Now, if I have a question, I'll ask it, get a consensus from multiple answers, and go from there. Two things I keep in my head: 1) what works in one tank, may not work in another, and, 2) nothing good ever happens fast in a reef tank. I've kept saltwater tanks, on and off, for 50 years, and I still have questions I need answered. So be bold, ask your questions, and take your time to do things right (remember rule #2). We are here for you, and want you to succeed. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.

I like debbeach13's response about LFS's. Find a good one (the local reefing society in your area is a great source for dependable LFS's, as well as used equipment and coral frags, etc).

Thank you so much! @Oldsalt01

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19 hours ago, Oldsalt01 said:

Find a good one (the local reefing society in your area is a great source for dependable LFS's, as well as used equipment and coral frags, etc).

Old salt is so wise. A local club might be one of the best resources for any reefer. Well second best NR is first. 

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If it was me, I would look for a different tank... I wouldn’t want to use one that had actually been recalled. You could keep that one as a quarantine tank in case you ever need one. I would just keep an eye out on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace and your local Facebook reefing group, or look into some of the good starter all in one tanks. 

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Hey y'all! Hoping to get some more advice/tips for this tank I'm still deciding on. The "recalled" Aquapod 12, if you remember. 

 

I'm clueless when it comes to these type tanks, is this considered an All In one Tank? 

Where's the filter? What else do I need? (Besides heater, and obvious things) 

I can't find info on this tank and don't really know how similar it is to biocube ect. So just trying to cover my bases since I've had a more traditional tank/filtration system . 

TIA

I found this info... I know a lil dated... But am I moving in the right direction?

 

MJ1200 pump

2. Par38 bulb and clamp

3. block off middle and bottom intakes

4. come up with a plan for media/cheato/fuge light possibly

 

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41 minutes ago, Carla3079 said:

when it comes to these type tanks, is this considered an All In one Tank? 

Yep.  The term used to mean tank, filter, light, and hood (all in one).  Now it's more loosely used to describe any tank with built-in filtration.

 

45 minutes ago, Carla3079 said:

Where's the filter?

The filter is the back chambers.  What you put back there is optional.  Looks like there are four chambers.

 

The first one is where the water enters the filtration chambers.  I think some people have blocked the two lower intakes so that the surface water is skimmed.  This would also direct the water, top to bottom.  However, this modification is optional.

 

I would probably make one or more filter media racks (media baskets) out of egg crate.  That way you could place filter floss and chemical filter media (in a media bag) on the racks.  There are a number of threads about how to build your own racks.

 

The last chamber is for your return pump.  This pumps the water out of the back, into the display; which then overflows back into the first filter chamber (creating the flow throughout the back chambers).  This last chamber is where the water level changes (due to evaporation).  So generally, we don't normally put other things back here.  You add freshwater back here daily to make up for evaporation.

 

You can put whatever you want in the back.  Activated carbon in a media bag (or pre bagged media like ChemiPure Elite).  Some people like Purigen.  Most people try to fit a heater back there too.

 

1 hour ago, Carla3079 said:

What else do I need? 

As far as equipment, (if you will be keeping corals) you should get a small powerhead for the display (maybe a Hydor Koralia Nano).  This will provide the additional flow needed.  You should replace your light bulbs every 9 months or so (even though they will still work).  Unfortunately, the color spectrum shifts on non-LED lights, so new bulbs are needed on a regular basis.

 

1 hour ago, Carla3079 said:

I found this info... I know a lil dated... But am I moving in the right direction?

 

MJ1200 pump

2. Par38 bulb and clamp

3. block off middle and bottom intakes

4. come up with a plan for media/cheato/fuge light possibly

The Maxi-Jet pump is a common replacement for the stock return pump.  I'm thinking a MJ900 might be adequate.  The powerhead in the display will provide most of the tank's flow.

 

The PAR38 LED bulb and gooseneck clamp would be a replacement for your stock lid and light.  That would also alleviate the issue with the recall.

 

There isn't much room for a refugium back there, but it is possible.  Personally, I'd just run mechanical (filter floss) and chemical (activated carbon) media.

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1 hour ago, seabass said:

Yep.  The term used to mean tank, filter, light, and hood (all in one).  Now it's more loosely used to describe any tank with built-in filtration.

 

The filter is the back chambers.  What you put back there is optional.  Looks like there are four chambers.

 

The first one is where the water enters the filtration chambers.  I think some people have blocked the two lower intakes so that the surface water is skimmed.  This would also direct the water, top to bottom.  However, this modification is optional.

 

I would probably make one or more filter media racks (media baskets) out of egg crate.  That way you could place filter floss and chemical filter media (in a media bag) on the racks.  There are a number of threads about how to build your own racks.

 

The last chamber is for your return pump.  This pumps the water out of the back, into the display; which then overflows back into the first filter chamber (creating the flow throughout the back chambers).  This last chamber is where the water level changes (due to evaporation).  So generally, we don't normally put other things back here.  You add freshwater back here daily to make up for evaporation.

 

You can put whatever you want in the back.  Activated carbon in a media bag (or pre bagged media like ChemiPure Elite).  Some people like Purigen.  Most people try to fit a heater back there too.

 

As far as equipment, (if you will be keeping corals) you should get a small powerhead for the display (maybe a Hydor Koralia Nano).  This will provide the additional flow needed.  You should replace your light bulbs every 9 months or so (even though they will still work).  Unfortunately, the color spectrum shifts on non-LED lights, so new bulbs are needed on a regular basis.

 

The Maxi-Jet pump is a common replacement for the stock return pump.  I'm thinking a MJ900 might be adequate.  The powerhead in the display will provide most of the tank's flow.

 

The PAR38 LED bulb and gooseneck clamp would be a replacement for your stock lid and light.  That would also alleviate the issue with the recall.

 

There isn't much room for a refugium back there, but it is possible.  Personally, I'd just run mechanical (filter floss) and chemical (activated carbon) media.

^ this.

 

 

I run an mj600 in my 10g IM and it's very powerful, I have no powerhead in my tank because my corals close up due to too much flow.

 

So you may not need a powerhead with an upgraded pump.

 

 

What was the recall for on these tanks?

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When only one light cord is plugged in, the other can potentially shock you (or cause a fire).  Both of them must either be plugged in, or both unplugged.  So by removing the light hood (and using a LED fixture instead), the potential danger would be adverted.

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14 hours ago, seabass said:

Yep.  The term used to mean tank, filter, light, and hood (all in one).  Now it's more loosely used to describe any tank with built-in filtration.

 

The filter is the back chambers.  What you put back there is optional.  Looks like there are four chambers.

 

The first one is where the water enters the filtration chambers.  I think some people have blocked the two lower intakes so that the surface water is skimmed.  This would also direct the water, top to bottom.  However, this modification is optional.

 

I would probably make one or more filter media racks (media baskets) out of egg crate.  That way you could place filter floss and chemical filter media (in a media bag) on the racks.  There are a number of threads about how to build your own racks.

 

The last chamber is for your return pump.  This pumps the water out of the back, into the display; which then overflows back into the first filter chamber (creating the flow throughout the back chambers).  This last chamber is where the water level changes (due to evaporation).  So generally, we don't normally put other things back here.  You add freshwater back here daily to make up for evaporation.

 

You can put whatever you want in the back.  Activated carbon in a media bag (or pre bagged media like ChemiPure Elite).  Some people like Purigen.  Most people try to fit a heater back there too.

 

As far as equipment, (if you will be keeping corals) you should get a small powerhead for the display (maybe a Hydor Koralia Nano).  This will provide the additional flow needed.  You should replace your light bulbs every 9 months or so (even though they will still work).  Unfortunately, the color spectrum shifts on non-LED lights, so new bulbs are needed on a regular basis.

 

The Maxi-Jet pump is a common replacement for the stock return pump.  I'm thinking a MJ900 might be adequate.  The powerhead in the display will provide most of the tank's flow.

 

The PAR38 LED bulb and gooseneck clamp would be a replacement for your stock lid and light.  That would also alleviate the issue with the recall.

 

There isn't much room for a refugium back there, but it is possible.  Personally, I'd just run mechanical (filter floss) and chemical (activated carbon) media.

Thanks so much !! 

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13 hours ago, Clown79 said:

^ this.

 

 

I run an mj600 in my 10g IM and it's very powerful, I have no powerhead in my tank because my corals close up due to too much flow.

 

So you may not need a powerhead with an upgraded pump.

 

 

What was the recall for on these tanks?

 Thank you! 

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