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Cultivated Reef

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ReeferND

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Clove polyp dead after less than 24 hrs. I will probably do a massive water change and discontinue use. I just don't see how any of the corals will survive if I lost one in less than 24. 

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RayWhisperer

Hydroids are very similar to coral polyps, in many ways. Sure, they are closer to jellyfish, but neither is too far off from coral polyps. So, it’s not surprising that stuff would kill corals. I’d say you’re making the right call to discontinue use. Unless, you’ve already lost most of your corals. Then, what could be the worst? You’d lose a few more, but be rid of the hydroid problem.

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6 hours ago, ReeferND said:

Clove polyp dead after less than 24 hrs. I will probably do a massive water change and discontinue use. I just don't see how any of the corals will survive if I lost one in less than 24. 

What? Oh no are you sure it’s dead? Want to post pictures? Is it from the hydroids, or maybe the Hydroxs treatment? Aren’t there some kinds of treatments that harm cloves and other softies?

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Yeah, definitely knew that anything that kills a Cnidarian is most likely to kill many. Definitely killed from the Hydroxs treatment. I think I am going to setup a 10 gallon with a small powerhead, heater, and HOB filter and keep the corals in there until the treatment is over. I just hope none of my inverts die from this stuff. 

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My big problem is that the hydroids are on the corals too.....so moving them to another tank, then placing back into the main means I will have them forever. Cant someone just invent a coral dip that kills everything but the coral?! 🙂 We can fly a rover to Mars but cant figure out how to deal with hydroids in reef tanks. Come on science! I bet Matt Damon could figure this out.

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RayWhisperer

Like I said before, I’ve never had a problem bad enough to deal with them. However, hydroids are pretty delicate. I wonder if you can make this work. 

 

Set it up the 10, and keep it CLEAN. No floating solids for them to feed from. Nurse the corals as best as possible. If you must feed them, only use larger foods, so the hydroids can’t eat them. Once things have recovered sufficiently, you could try weekly FW dips. Corals can protect themselves, where as, I don’t believe hydroids can. They can retract, but I don’t believe they can slime, like corals do. Keep the corals in the FW as long as possible. Like 5 or more minutes. Most corals will be fine with a 5 minute FW dip. Between low food availability and weekly FW treatments, it may be enough to knock them on their ass.

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RayWhisperer

Dipping the rock shouldn’t be TOO detrimental. The bacteria that resides in the anoxic area of the rock will be un affected. Some strains that live closer to, or on the surface will suffer. However, many strains are prevalent in both fresh and salt water. Those will be unphased.

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Well I thought I would post here that I’m trying my new strategy to deal with my hydroids, and I will likely curse this idea, and this day. I just got a sea hare again to eat the hydroids... this little guy went right to work eating them.

 

But the second part of my plan is the controversial part that I may come to regret: I also added a frag of sansibia, aka blue cloves. For those that don’t already know, they are HIGHLY invasive and fast growing, and they grow by spreading in a mat and also by spawning. My hope is that if Waldo III (the sea hare) does his job and clears off the hydroids, maybe the sansibia will be able to cover all of my exposed rock and prevent the hydroids from coming back. It may not work because the hydroids probably pack more of a punch than the sansibia, so they may still be able to grow and spread, but I’m giving it a try. I personally like the look of tanks with rock covered in sansibia; hopefully I will like mine that way!

 

I’ll keep you all posted on the outcome, and I’d love to hear other approaches and the results. 

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  • 4 months later...

Hello everyone. A lot of discussion regarding this issue was being discussed on my build thread but I wanted to update you all as well. I hate it when threads just die without any solution so here we go.

 

I tried everything to get rid of it. I got a UV sterilzer, dosed 2 bottles of refresh and waste away, did a full treatment with chemiclean, did nothing hoping it would burn out, blacked out the tank for 3 days (wrapped entire tank in tin fool, not just turned off lights), scrubbed everyday and did 3x/week wcs......it is actually worse now than before. I lost my galaxia, hammer, clove and palythoa. Frogspawn is clinging to life in quarantine tank. Anemone is struggling. I really hate this stuff.....hope no one ever has to deal with whatever it is. 

 

However, I know what the problem is. I didn't start the tank right. I rushed it, didn't supplement the appropriate animals  at the appropriate times, rushed putting coral in, etc. So, I am starting over. Just got my shipment of Caribsea shapes rock, figi pink sand and bottle of one and only today. I still need to drain the tank, take everything out and clean the heck out of it. 

 

This is where I need some help. How should I clean this thing and all pumps and equipment to guarantee none of this stuff survives into the new tank? Bleach? Hydrogen peroxide? I live where it is going to be super cold (-40F) this weekend....would doing all the above plus leaving it all outside for night do anything? 

 

I just want it all dead and to feel very comfortable putting stuff back into the tank. 

 

Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated!! 

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I think I would use full or cleaning strength white vinegar to clean the tank and equipment. Really soak them well overnight, even run the pumps in a bowl or sink of vinegar to make sure it reaches all parts. Not much can survive in vinegar, and it is safe for our tanks if, even after a lot of rinsing, some remains. 

Keep us updated!

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I will absolutely keep every posted on the progress. 

 

What do you folks think about this scape? It's going in a 30L so I am kind of limited in my arrangement options. This is my favorite thus far but not sure I am in love with it.

20190116_203003.jpg

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