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Cultivated Reef

FISHnChix REEFER 250 BUILD *! New SPS🤞🤞🤙 *🍻


FISHnChix

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2 hours ago, mitten_reef said:

well well, let's see some updates 😄

Check craigslist for an update!!!😉😂.

 

 

 

Actually did a wc just now. I'll snap some pics tomorrow when stuff settles in.

 

But for an update I am officially not going to mess with sps again haha.. can not keep them alive no matter what I do, so I'm over it. In all honesty I am about over reef keeping in general.  Costs for coral or should i say bugger sized frags is ridiculous,  and the local shops that have survived near me are complete junk. Starting to feel like more of a chore than a hobbie😪

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  • 3 weeks later...

So been pretty over reef keeping so nothing going on over here but I do have a word of caution.  Tank has been looking off for a couple of weeks. I did all the tests and everything looked ok. Figured heck with it if it crashes it crashes.. was scrapping the glass yesterday and the mag cleaner fell off so I had to grab it out of the water. Well it felt kinda warm. Of course I dont look at temp like a should but was kinda weird so I looked . Yea tank was up to 81 when I run my reef at 78. The neotherms are usually rock solid for me.. checked the apex and yea temp was spiking to the shutoff and then dropping back down and turning on again. I inspected my heaters and one of them says it was set to 94!! Well shit it was stuck on 94. Dunno how or why it failed but it did.  

 

Word of advise just change your heaters every couple years or every year ..🕺

Screenshot_20201109-104237_APEX Fusion.jpg

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But if your using an apex it should kill the heater at whatever you have it set to .......

 

I run my heaters at 80 plus but the apex turns them on and off to the set temp............ i run my tank at 78 and have no issues...........

 

you have your apex set up wrong ?

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4 minutes ago, spectra said:

But if your using an apex it should kill the heater at whatever you have it set to .......

 

I run my heaters at 80 plus but the apex turns them on and off to the set temp............ i run my tank at 78 and have no issues...........

 

you have your apex set up wrong ?

Nan got it setup they way I wanted. Apex as a back up fail safe. I was letting the heaters do their job and turn off and on to maintain temp an apex as a fail safe shut off.  Worked the way I wanted , but if I was smart enough I would set it up to email me when it hit the high temp limit and then I would have been good

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15 minutes ago, FISHnChix said:

Nan got it setup they way I wanted. Apex as a back up fail safe. I was letting the heaters do their job and turn off and on to maintain temp an apex as a fail safe shut off.  Worked the way I wanted , but if I was smart enough I would set it up to email me when it hit the high temp limit and then I would have been good

Um use the apex please.................... the way its supposed to.............

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16 minutes ago, spectra said:

Um use the apex please.................... the way its supposed to.............

Either way will work but....This is my world though so I got er right. I use the relay circuits for my dosers so the triacs for the heaters by default.  That type of contact is not good for cycling under a load especially that of a heating element bc of the inrush.. we install interposing relays on triacs even for small loads like that of a solenoid coil..facts  if you dont they wont last.. 

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23 minutes ago, spectra said:

Um use the apex please.................... the way its supposed to.............

Yeah. I just read that recently. How a lot of ppl use apex wrong. Apex outlet should be the primary switch for shutting off and turning on. That allows the internal switch in the heater to “work” as little as possible to avoid failed internal switch. 

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11 minutes ago, mitten_reef said:

Yeah. I just read that recently. How a lot of ppl use apex wrong. Apex outlet should be the primary switch for shutting off and turning on. That allows the internal switch in the heater to “work” as little as possible to avoid failed internal switch. 

See...................................... I am not the only one fishy boy.................. :tongueout:

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11 minutes ago, mitten_reef said:

Yeah. I just read that recently. How a lot of ppl use apex wrong. Apex outlet should be the primary switch for shutting off and turning on. That allows the internal switch in the heater to “work” as little as possible to avoid failed internal switch. 

disagree completely. This information comes from people with ZERO knowledge of controls. Why would you want your more expensive control to cycle more? That way you can replace that not if but when it fails.. stupid.  I wont bore you with the the details of triac contacts. Literally this is how I make my money. I deal with thousands of these contacts daily and have installed MILLIONS AND MILLIONS of dollars in controls  18 years worth. Certain things we can debate when it comes to reefing .. this well is not reefing and  is no debate.. sorry but ya wrong on this one..🍻

6 minutes ago, spectra said:

See...................................... I am not the only one fishy boy.................. :tongueout:

Dorks🤦‍♂️😎🙃🤦‍♂️🍻

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Just now, FISHnChix said:

disagree completely. This information comes from people with ZERO knowledge of controls. Why would you want your more expensive control to cycle more? That way you can replace that not if but when it fails.. stupid.  I wont bore you with the the details of triac contacts. Literally this is how I make my money. I deal with thousands of these contacts daily and have installed MILLIONS AND MILLIONS of dollars in controls  18 years worth. Certain things we can debate when it comes to reefing .. this well is not reefing and  is no debate.. sorry but ya wrong on this one..🍻

Dorks🤦‍♂️😎🙃🤦‍♂️🍻

Not arguing, or debating, just regurgitating what I read.  You make a good point re: expensive repair and replacement. 🧐.  But shouldn’t the switch in the power bar be more durable than the one inside the heater?  Or are they simply using diff type that handles cycling and the in rush better? 
I don’t run controller, I have zero experience with them. But if I do, temp controller will be one of the main thing I want to make sure I get the redundancy right.  So understanding the reasoning behind one being primary switch vs the other is useful. 

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21 minutes ago, mitten_reef said:

Not arguing, or debating, just regurgitating what I read.  You make a good point re: expensive repair and replacement. 🧐.  But shouldn’t the switch in the power bar be more durable than the one inside the heater?  Or are they simply using diff type that handles cycling and the in rush better? 
I don’t run controller, I have zero experience with them. But if I do, temp controller will be one of the main thing I want to make sure I get the redundancy right.  So understanding the reasoning behind one being primary switch vs the other is useful. 

Dont have enough time to type it out tonight but I will respond when I get some down time at work so I can lay it out 🍻🤙😎

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I am actually trying to find the link off of the Apex Forum. He is right, Neptune systems recommends that you plug your heater into a heater controller (Inkbird) and that into the Apex socket. When the heater turns on and off over time the Inkbird controller and heater are replaced at a cheaper cost, then replacing a powerbar (EB4 = 119.00, EB8 - 159.95 or EB832 - 279.95), unless you have the skill to replace one of those sockets.

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22 minutes ago, Coolbreeze said:

I am actually trying to find the link off of the Apex Forum. He is right, Neptune systems recommends that you plug your heater into a heater controller (Inkbird) and that into the Apex socket. When the heater turns on and off over time the Inkbird controller and heater are replaced at a cheaper cost, then replacing a powerbar (EB4 = 119.00, EB8 - 159.95 or EB832 - 279.95), unless you have the skill to replace one of those sockets.

So built-in heater controller

Inkbird controller

Then Apex controller

 

Honestly, I'm not going to do that

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10 hours ago, farkwar said:

So built-in heater controller

Inkbird controller

Then Apex controller

 

Honestly, I'm not going to do that

I think that you are missing the point here. If you are building a nano system you usually buy a heater with a controller on it and then connect it to an Inkbird and you are done. If the onboard heater controller fails then the Inkbird will stop the heater from overheating your DT and send an email for you to react to it or if the heater no longer heats your DT then again your Inkbird will send an email alert about low temp and again you have time to react to it.

 

Now when building larger tanks, you heaters are larger and therefore you can overheat your DT and killing everything in there. Again, you can buy a heater with a controller on it and you can attach it to an Inkbird or Apex if you have one, but not all three unless you use two heaters. Some users will hook up one heater to an Inkbird and the other to an Apex so if one dies the other takes over until you can react to it if you are away.

 

Personally, on my larger tank I will buy one Inkbird and attach a heater with no controller on it and the second heater with a controller on it and attach it to my Apex so if the first one dies then the second one takes over. Now I do not spend extra money on heaters with controllers as you should be replacing your heater every 12 to 18 months and that is just throwing away money. Heaters without controllers are cheap.

 

Now keep in mind that you have x amount of money in corals and livestock and if you do not want a 35-insurance policy? Okie Dokie then.

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2 minutes ago, farkwar said:

Inkbird controllers don't send email alerts

I was wondering.  Damn when did they start doing that? Wouldnt surprise me though shoot jeabo has wifi dosers now

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Sorry, I missed type what I wanted to say. The Inkbird wifi unit will send alerts to its phone app. Yes I know as I have been waken up many times in the night when I did not have the unit configured properly and yes I do get them at work as well, so it is like getting an email. Model number I am using is ITC-308 wifi and also it can connect to your Alexia or Google Assistant as well.

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  • 5 months later...
FISHnChix

So got super lazy and let my reef pretty much die.. went to get some fish food today and said heck with it. Might do a fish only tank with this guy. And maybe get some nems🤷‍♂️🤙🍻😎

 

Cheers !

20210505_170649.jpg

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mitten_reef
15 hours ago, FISHnChix said:

So got super lazy and let my reef pretty much die.. went to get some fish food today and said heck with it. Might do a fish only tank with this guy. And maybe get some nems🤷‍♂️🤙🍻😎

 

Cheers !

20210505_170649.jpg

I guess that little yellow guy I spy is worth keeping around as a fish-only tank.  he's basically is your tank's bitcoin, so don't screw up the fish-only plan

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ECLS Reefer
1 hour ago, mitten_reef said:

I guess that little yellow guy I spy is worth keeping around as a fish-only tank.  he's basically is your tank's bitcoin, so don't screw up the fish-only plan

No joke mine is isolated and skeletal for god knows why. I sure hope he will put some weight back on, cause I sure can’t afford to replace him.

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16 hours ago, FISHnChix said:

So got super lazy and let my reef pretty much die.. went to get some fish food today and said heck with it. Might do a fish only tank with this guy. And maybe get some nems🤷‍♂️🤙🍻😎

 

Cheers !

20210505_170649.jpg

Awesome fish!

Take the last of me softies! 

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FISHnChix
7 hours ago, mitten_reef said:

he's basically is your tank's bitcoin, so don't screw up the fish-only plan

Lol stupid what a plain ole yellow tank goes for now.  Supply and demand I guess.. 🤨🙃.

 

What else is new buddy? Long time no talk.. all settled into the new house yet?

6 hours ago, jack1978 said:

Awesome fish!

Take the last of me softies! 

Yea not sure if he is gunna make it . Was kinda acting weird after I got it yesterday and just swiming up top . Then today he has been laying on the sand up against the rocks. But kinda weird he will come out for an hour or so and swim around like nothings wrong🤔

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