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should I go back to using the Nano A&B?


sadie

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In a post I posted earlier, it was suggested that I stop using the Nano A&B.  I stopped a few days ago, but wondering if I should go back.  Here are my daily param. taken at 6:45 every morning.

With Nano A&B-

7/2=

kh-9    MAG-1470   CAL-300   SALINITY- 1.025

7/9=

KH-8   MAG-1470   CAL-300   SALINITY-1.025   TEMP 81.1

7/10=

KH-8   MAG-1460   CAL-240 (TAKEN LATER IN THE DAY)

 

WITH OUT A&B

7/11= (DID A 2 GAL wc)

KH-8   MAG-1470   CAL-220   SALINITY--1.024   TEMP-82.9

7/12=

KH-7    MAG-1470   CAL-200    SALINITY-1.024    TEMP-77.1

7/13=

KH-6    MAG-1470    CAL-240    SALINITY--1.024    TEMP-78.1

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

Why did your salinity change? Your salinity should drop from 1.025 to 1.024.

 

 

I bought a new refractometer.  I think right around the time you see the change.  The one I had was about 18 yrs old and I was getting blurred lines. 

 

Also, I was using 2 salts; the IO reef crystals and the reg IO salt.  When I stopped dosing, I also stopped using the reef crystals.  I am going to use only the reg IO for about a month and see how that goes.    One thing I have found in all my reading is focusing on consistency.  The reg IO salt is sold in 2 LFS here, so it is the easiest to get hold of, so I figured it would be the easiest way to stay consistent. 

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2 minutes ago, specore said:

Did they recommend you stop dosing all together or just stop using the Kent Marine product?

basically all together, you can read more on my post -? on salt, salinity and calcium.

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oh, I forgot to mention, that I am trying to bring my salinity up a little at a time to 1.025.  When I do my WC my salinity on the added water is 1.026.  It had been suggested to raise it to 1.026, but that is the max it should be, so I get a little nervous riding the line.  If it happens to go up a little at 1.025, I am still in the "safe zone".  But if it is 1.026 and it goes up a little, then I am out of the safe zone.

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I personally keep mine at 1.025

 

You received sound advice in the other thread.  If it were my tank I would up the water changes closer to the 20-25% range (3g of so) and not worry so much about testing and dosing until things have had a couple more months to stabilize.  If you start adding stony corals and need to begin dosing you may look at a different 2 part.  I don't have any experience with the Nano A&B, but don't generally think highly of Kent products.  ESV is pretty much the standard in the hobby and has worked well for me for 15 years. However, as @Clown79 pointed out,  you really have no need to dose at this point and are probably just over complicating things by doing so.  

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Your ca is really low. What test kit are you using? I've never seen ca that 

 

I'd test a batch of new water and see what its mixing at.

 

What livestock do you currently have?

 

I ask because doing a few decent size waterchanges with the proper parameters will be far easier to get things back on track than dosing.

 

Dosing should only be done to replenish what corals use not to hit a target number that your salt isn't providing.

 

If your parameters are not what you want then using a good salt with the right numbers is better than dosing to get to a number.

 

If the stores don't sell a good salt, order the salt. 

 

 

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My only concern is my KH was stable at around 8 when dosing.  Now it has dropped a pt every day over the last 3 days.  It seems it was more stable when dosing

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For a tank that has 1 leather, your drop doesn't make sense. 

 

All the numbers don't make sense.

 

You need to get the tank back on track and safely.

 

Your ca and alk are not balanced.

 

With alk at 8 your ca should be around 400

 

Continuing to dose will maintain alk but your ca will not move.

 

So far switching salts regularly and dosing the Kent product has gotten the tank off track.

 

As suggested by many, you need to get the tank back on track before worrying about

 

Adding any more livestock

Or dosing

 

Good size waterchanges with a salt mixing with proper numbers will correct things.

 

Then worry about maintaining them daily when you have a decent amount of corals.

 

Until the tank is stocked, weekly waterchanges to replenish the loss is fine.

 

 

Your leather will not be effected.

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1 hour ago, Clown79 said:

 

What livestock do you currently have?

 

Other thread says a small toadstool and gsp.

 

The problems is when things are out of whack and you then go and change everything there is no way to know what changes hurt and what helped.  Pick a salt mix, salinity and temp and stick to it for a while.  Do water changes and don't even test for a few weeks, as testing is just making you want to start correcting every little thing when you should probably be hands off for a while.  You are fine to add your fish and enjoy them in the meantime.  Once you have been doing only water changes for a few weeks your tank should settle into a nice baseline...then do a test and go from there.  You don't have anything in your tank which is going to be too sensitive to any of the parameters you are testing for anyway, so best to just lay low for the time being. 

 

Edit:  I think you've fallen victim to the "reef tanks take so much work"  and "you have to do  A.B and C" crowd.  Sometimes the real discipline is in keeping it simple and you will be able to enjoy this hobby soooo much more if you are not stressing about every little thing right out of the gate.  

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Everything I have in my tank:

toadstool (very small) It is a baby from the one I had 18 yrs ago

GSP added last month (I believe)

Green emerald crab (added last month)

2 hermit crabs-not sure what kind, I asked for blue legged, got these things instead.  seem peaceful enough. (added last month)

2 sand sifting snails- the small ones not big ones (added last month)

1 cleaner shrimp (added last week)

16 gal snail cleaning package from reefcleaners.com- 16 Dwarf Ceriths (though I counted 35), 5 Nassarius vibex,6 Florida Ceriths and 5 Nerites (all added yesterday) 

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So, what I'm hearing is I have been trying too hard.  I need to step back and chill.  kinda like too many cooks in the kitchen.

 

GOING FORWARD:

I will NOT dose. 

I will do a 2 gal WC 2x a week using the IO salt, testing salinity in new water at 1.026.

I am going to stop testing.

I might buy a new calcium test on line.

 

I am not going to add anything new to my tank until it is stable. (just don't like the idea)

 

thanks all for your help.  I will update in time.

 

 

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, sadie said:

I am not going to add anything new to my tank until it is stable. (just don't like the idea)

 

I don't see any issue with adding your clownfish.  They don't really care about alk so much 😉

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Your testing is still wrong, why is Calcium so low?   Have you done a large water change yet?  Have you done any water changes?

 

Nothing is using Alk unless you are absolutely loaded with Coraline algae.

 

WITH OUT A&B

7/11= (DID A 2 GAL wc)

KH-8   MAG-1470   CAL-220   SALINITY--1.024   TEMP-82.9

7/12=

KH-7    MAG-1470   CAL-200    SALINITY-1.024    TEMP-77.1

7/13=

KH-6    MAG-1470    CAL-240    SALINITY--1.024    TEMP-78.1

 

 

Calcium going up and down, KH dropping steadily, temperature all over the place.   

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Just now, markalot said:

Your testing is still wrong, why is Calcium so low?   Have you done a large water change yet?  Have you done any water changes?

 

Nothing is using Alk unless you are absolutely loaded with Coraline algae.

 

 

I did a 2 gal WC on Friday the 6th, a 2 gal on 7/11 and will do a 3 gal wc today.

 

My rocks are 18 yrs old and COVERED  in Coraline algae, but don't thing that would be enough to deplete the Alk

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Calcium going up and down, KH dropping steadily, temperature all over the place.   

 

My calcium kit is API, my KH is SERA (never heard of it, but it's what the LFS had) I am buying a new thermometer today, wondering if the one I am using is off.  But I also live in New England where it is 92 one day and 75 the next!!  try and keep that stable 😅

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Test kit types are important.

 

Highly recommended kits: red sea and salifert

 

Temp control: inkbird controller, no lids on tanks, fan, ac. 

 

You can add fish. I meant don't add corals until you get those number confirmed with good kits and then corrected.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Test kit types are important.

 

Highly recommended kits: red sea and salifert

 

Temp control: inkbird controller, no lids on tanks, fan, ac. 

 

You can add fish. I meant don't add corals until you get those number confirmed with good kits and then corrected.

 

 

I am going to order a Salifert KH and calcium kit today.  I will also order some Coral Rx, and Clown you were telling someone to dip their fish in something ______ blue?  Was that just for treating, or was that for adding new fish to a tank as well?

 

I didn't get a fish, I don't have my QT set up or anything.  I would also just feel better having my tank stable first.

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2 hours ago, sadie said:

I am going to order a Salifert KH and calcium kit today.  I will also order some Coral Rx, and Clown you were telling someone to dip their fish in something ______ blue?  Was that just for treating, or was that for adding new fish to a tank as well?

 

I didn't get a fish, I don't have my QT set up or anything.  I would also just feel better having my tank stable first.

No it wasn't me.

 

I don't dip my fish in anything.

 

I recommend qt to prevent any introduction of possible disease.

Monitoring the fish for disease is less stressful than needless treatment

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It was this stuff-

Methylene Blue

I went to check my order, and I actually didn't order anything.  So is this something good to have in my "first aid kit"?  I am setting up my QT tank tonight.  Hoping to get a fish on Tue.  

On 7/13/2018 at 4:01 PM, Clown79 said:

No it wasn't me.

 

I don't dip my fish in anything.

 

I recommend qt to prevent any introduction of possible disease.

Monitoring the fish for disease is less stressful than needless treatment

hmmm, not sure who it was, but I found th

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