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Growing edible algae in reactor


BrewReef

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Hey,

I am running a im nuvo fusion 10 and I'm looking for a way to reduce/recycle nutrients.

I was planning on going with a chaeto reactor, but I was thinking that a slower growing, edible algae will provide more consistent nutrient uptake and a good source as well. I figure I would run it similar to a cheato reactor. Just a phosban 150 reactor with led lights aimed at it. Due to people mentioning cracks on the reacprts with the lights attached to the reactor,  I figured I would attach them to a small box which I could set the reactor in. That way the reactor would be protects fromthe heat of the led.

 

What do you guys think? 

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42 minutes ago, BrewReef said:

Hey,

I am running a im nuvo fusion 10 and I'm looking for a way to reduce/recycle nutrients.

I was planning on going with a chaeto reactor, but I was thinking that a slower growing, edible algae will provide more consistent nutrient uptake and a good source as well. I figure I would run it similar to a cheato reactor. Just a phosban 150 reactor with led lights aimed at it. Due to people mentioning cracks on the reacprts with the lights attached to the reactor,  I figured I would attach them to a small box which I could set the reactor in. That way the reactor would be protects fromthe heat of the led.

 

What do you guys think? 

 

@Subsea is the algae guru. 

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21 hours ago, BrewReef said:

Hey,

I am running a im nuvo fusion 10 and I'm looking for a way to reduce/recycle nutrients.

I was planning on going with a chaeto reactor, but I was thinking that a slower growing, edible algae will provide more consistent nutrient uptake and a good source as well. I figure I would run it similar to a cheato reactor. Just a phosban 150 reactor with led lights aimed at it. Due to people mentioning cracks on the reacprts with the lights attached to the reactor,  I figured I would attach them to a small box which I could set the reactor in. That way the reactor would be protects fromthe heat of the led.

 

What do you guys think? 

Welcome to NR.

 

I have no experience with chaeto reactor, but I do grow editable algae.  I assume you mean edible  “to fish”, because I have grown Red Ogo which is people editable.  IndoPacific SeaFarm calls it “Tang Heaven Red”.

 

IMO,   Chaeto is the only macro suitable to growing in a reactor.  Why don’t you tell me a little about what you would like your reef tank to be.  

 

 

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A Little Blue
4 hours ago, Subsea said:

I have no experience with chaeto reactor, but I do grow editable algae.  I assume you mean edible  “to fish”, because I have grown Red Ogo which is people editable.  IndoPacific SeaFarm calls it “Tang Heaven Red”.

Isn’t Sea Grape macro also popular food source for human consumption? 

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A Little Blue
3 hours ago, Subsea said:

Yes.  I have eaten several varieties of Grape Caulerpa.  The gold standard is Caulerpa lentillifera.  I like it chilled with soy sauce & lime juice.

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caulerpa_lentillifera

 

I grow some but it never crossed my mind to try it out. 👀

 

There is a huge agricultural facility in Hawaii that specializes in growing Sea Grapes. I guess that Sea Grapes are part their diet.... 

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15 hours ago, A Little Blue said:

I grow some but it never crossed my mind to try it out. 👀

 

There is a huge agricultural facility in Hawaii that specializes in growing Sea Grapes. I guess that Sea Grapes are part their diet.... 

IndoPacific SeaFarm has a large facility on the Big Island.  Amongst other things they cultivate Gracilaria Parvispora and sell it to the marine aquarium market as Tang Heaven Red.  Everywhere else in the world, it is called Red Ogo.  In Hawaii, Ogo is a mainstay of the diet there, not a small part.   In the 1970’s, it was apparent that demand exceeded the natural supply and Gracilaria Tikvahiae, which is more aggressive, was introduced into Hawaiian waters and is supplying an increasing demand for Red Ogo.  IPSF facility on the Big Island has access to nutrient rich, cold water from 3000’ deep.

 

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A Little Blue
1 hour ago, Subsea said:

IndoPacific SeaFarm has a large facility on the Big Island.  Amongst other things they cultivate Gracilaria Parvispora and sell it to the marine aquarium market as Tang Heaven Red.  Everywhere else in the world, it is called Red Ogo.  In Hawaii, Ogo is a mainstay of the diet there, not a small part.   In the 1970’s, it was apparent that demand exceeded the natural supply and Gracilaria Tikvahiae, which is more aggressive, was introduced into Hawaiian waters and is supplying an increasing demand for Red Ogo.  IPSF facility on the Big Island has access to nutrient rich, cold water from 3000’ deep.

 

Interesting stuff. Even tho I’ve been there 2 or 3 times, not once have I come across Sea Grapes in their local cuisine. Never even heard anyone meantion it. 

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Hey, sorry ibwasnt on for the last few days. 

I meant edible for the fish, though I know a lot more about human edible plants.

I'm looking to have consistent nutrient uptake from my system. Some of which I can recycle and some i can export.   I'm running a im nuvo cushion 10 with 2 small false percula, 2 hermits, and several small frags.  I want to start up my reactor once my system get a little farther along. I know chaeto would grow better, but I since im going to try to keep a lighter bioloaf, so I was hoping slower growing/fish edible algae would be a better fit.   The only filtration on my tank for now is poly filter for mechanical.  I'm hoping the algae reactor would pick up where the poly lacks as the tank matures.   Also, I'm performing 2 gallon wcs  every 7-10 days.    

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Would you consider slower growing ornamental macro in your tank?  The fish you mentioned are not big macro eaters. But they would graze on biofilms that cover macro surfaces.  Grow a patch of Caulerpa Prolifera in your substrate.  With a rich emerald green thin blade undulating in the currents,  C. Prolifera displays very well as it resembles a true marine plant, Oar Grass.  Contrast a meadow of green blades with Red Grapes.

 

https://www.marineplantbook.com/marinebookprolifera.htm

 

https://www.marineplantbook.com/marinebookbotryo.htm

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8 hours ago, BrewReef said:

Hey, sorry ibwasnt on for the last few days. 

I meant edible for the fish, though I know a lot more about human edible plants.

I'm looking to have consistent nutrient uptake from my system. Some of which I can recycle and some i can export.   I'm running a im nuvo cushion 10 with 2 small false percula, 2 hermits, and several small frags.  I want to start up my reactor once my system get a little farther along. I know chaeto would grow better, but I since im going to try to keep a lighter bioloaf, so I was hoping slower growing/fish edible algae would be a better fit.   The only filtration on my tank for now is poly filter for mechanical.  I'm hoping the algae reactor would pick up where the poly lacks as the tank matures.   Also, I'm performing 2 gallon wcs  every 7-10 days.    

@BrewReef

I knew you meant fish ediable, I was having fun without saying LMAO.  With respect to your comment about poly filter for mechanical filtration only, that is not accurate.  

 

https://www.marinedepot.com/Poly_Filter_Filter_Pad_Mechanical_Filter_Media-Poly_Bio_Marine-PB1111-FIFMMEPM-vi.html

 

Read the technical description.  You will see that a poly filter is very unique in its ability to remove specific minerals from the water like cooper and iron.  Both cooper and iron are required trace minerals.  When I was growing Red Ogo commercially, I sent it off to be analyzed by a regional agricultural laboratory.   Red Ogo contained 20 ppm of iron and 10 ppb of copper.  

 

It is my opinion that the indiscriminate removal of trace minerals is not beneficial for long term success in a reef aquarium.  In all photosynthetic organisms, growth is limited by the least abundant mineral.  Iron dosing is often required for macro algae.

 

when I begin dosing iron into my growout tanks, I noticed an immediate darkning of red from pale red to fire engine red.  The green macro darkened up to a dark emerald green.

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I was under the impression that poly filter was purely mechanical.  Wow.   I agree with you about removing trace minerals like that would be bad for long term reef health. One of the reasons I wanted to use a slower growing algae was to hopefully avoid dosing. I'm hoping that algae trace minerals like iron would be maintained with WCs.

My only concern wish putting ornamental macros in my display is the real estate they would take up. I'm trying my hardest not to fill every gap in this tank up. Haha. I figured a reactor could house the plant so I could have the display space.   

I wasn't sure how much clowns actually would eat from the algae, but I figured if they ate a little bit, I would get more use than if I went the normal route of chaeto.  Here's a poor quality cell phone picture. (I have to learn what apps help take better pictures in the future)

20180528_164634.thumb.jpg.0159f8a6340db3ce50acd9810de1bdeb.jpg

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In looking at your aquascaping, I see little room to grow in your substrate without interfering with view of rock work.  I still suggest a utilitarian macro in substrate behind your rock work in between the back glass.   You could consider it an “in tank” macro refugium.  Use Caulerpa Paspoidies, which is in picture #4.

https://www.marineplantbook.com/marinebookpaspaloides.htm

 

 

You should consider Red Grapes or Gracilaria Hayi as an ornamental macro that would display well in your tank.

Gracilaria Hayi in picture #1 & #2.

 

Halymenia dilatata is a gorgeous red macro called Dragons Tongue.  Even the feather Caulerpa is gorgeous to look at.  Each hobbiest builds his own system.  If you want your system to have longevity,  you should include some type of algae in your display.  Coral is 50% algae called zooanthellia, which is a dinoflagellates.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zooxanthellae

 

Trace minerals and nutrients come in with the food.  Some trace minerals like iron come in with the salt mix.

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In looking at your aquascaping, I see little room to grow in your substrate without interfering with view of rock work.  I still suggest a utilitarian macro in substrate behind your rock work in between the back glass.   You could consider it an “in tank” macro refugium.  Use Caulerpa Paspoidies, which is in picture #4.

 

 

 

You should consider Red Grapes or Gracilaria Hayi as an ornamental macro that would display well in your tank.

 

Halymenia dilatata is a gorgeous red macro called Dragons Tongue.  Even the feather Caulerpa is gorgeous to look at.  Each hobbiest builds his own system.  If you want your system to have longevity,  you should include some type of algae in your display.  Coral is 50% algae called zooanthelia 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zooxanthellae

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8 minutes ago, BrewReef said:

I really like the look of the caulerpa paspoidies. I'm going to look into places I could buy it.   Thank you subsea.  

The macro reference guide that I linked is a part of live_plants.com.  They are the best source that I have used.

 

https://www.live-plants.com/

 

I will caution you on using such a fast growing Caulerpa.  It is more prone to going sexual than Caulerpa Prolifera.  I use both.

 

One reason for macro to go sexual occurs when large patches of macro are growing fast and then they  strip the tank of nutrients.  In a survival response, the macro self destructs and spreads spores to reproduce when conditions are favorable.  For the  above reason, until you learn to recognize certain signs in advance, I suggest you start out with Caulerpa Prolifera.  Because of my aquascaping, I put C. Paspoidies where I can see it.  If you were to put it on the side of your rock work, you would see it, but it would not block your rock scape view.

 

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After I thought about it, I realize I should tell you some indicators of Caulerpa Paspoidies going sexual and consequences to tank after macro goes sexual.

 

When Caulerpa Paspoidies is growing fast, the tips will be white to opaque.  When tips get clear and stems double in diameter allowing milky fluid to escape, that macro is ready to self destruct.  I have had a large patch of C Paspoidies go sexual in a 150G tank, where you could not see the back of the tank.  The main concern is oxygen depletion.  Use extra circulation and remove organics with GAC. 

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I'm not going to lie, I'm wary of those macros now.  More so that I might miss the warning signs untill it's too late.   Do you have other suggestions that aren't prone to go sexual. The dragons tongue you mentioned maybe?    I want something that looks natural (if it's in the display instead of a reactor) and that will just pick up some nutrients between WCs. I think I'll end up stressing myself out have "a ticking time bomb" in my tank haha

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@BrewReef

You should be informed and wary about everything you put in your tank.  Macro going sexual is no more a ticking time bomb than a tank of organic corals or a sand bed going anarobic.  I always say knowledge is power.  No reason to be alarmed.  As I already suggested, Caulerpa Prolifera is a safe macro to use.  Keep it in the substrate, because it’s holdfast are invasive if they get on your live rock.  Invasive means if you do nothing for months, it will grow over stuff.  

 

 

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8 minutes ago, hoodle said:

image.jpg

That's Caulerpa? The link you gave shows it as green

I've been looking for yellow/orange macroalgae

These are small sprigs of Dragons Tongue, Halymenia dilatata.  I doubt you can find this.  ORA grows it at times.  Almost all red macros will turn yellow orange under increasing light  intensity.   As light goes from low to intense the colors go burgundy, red, orange red, then yellow red.

 

If you have intense lighting, then try Sargassum Seaweed.

https://www.live-plants.com/sargassum.htm

 

 

 

 

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What plant would be yellowish or at least orangish under the least amount of light? I'm planning to add macros to my jar and want something other than green and purplish red.

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54 minutes ago, hoodle said:

What plant would be yellowish or at least orangish under the least amount of light? I'm planning to add macros to my jar and want something other than green and purplish red.

It is not going to happen.  Here is the list of brown macro.  All require intense light.

https://www.marineplantbook.com/marineplantbookbrownalgae.htm

 

Does purplish red mean burgundy or crimson red, as in the first picture I posted of Gracilaria Hayi.

https://www.marineplantbook.com/marinebookgrachayi.htm

 

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