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LITTLE BLUE| IM30L (picking up pieces after the crush)


A Little Blue

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A Little Blue

Everything below was wiped out due to tank crush and I got no time to edit all that atm. 

 

 After few years of absence from the hobby and recent emergency tank swap (due to cracked glass), I decided to give it another shot.  

 

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Ca  420-450                          KH  9                              Mg 1360-1390                 Salinity 1.026
 

For over a week, 2 Clowns, Circus Goby, Purple Firefish, Tailspot Blenny and several corals had to share 8 gallon spare tank. All fish & corals survived . With new tank on the way, future for these guys became a little brighter. Few days later, tank was ready for new occupants. 

 

                       Equipment:

 

Aquarium -

Innovative Marine Nuvo30 Long link

Return Pump -

 Jebao DC return pump link

2018 Model - DCW-2000 (528GPH) from Am@zon. 

Circulating Wave Pumps -

3X Aquamai KPS wave pump link 

AI Nero5 wavemaker

RFG by VCA demo 1/2in Random Flow Generator Nozzles

Main and Fuge lights -

2X Kessil A160 Tuna Blue link 

Kessil H80 fuge light linkfuge

Kessil Spectral Controller 

Dosing Pump -

Jebao dosing pump link  (4 pumps)

Skimmer -

Tunze 9004 DOC Skimmer DC Link

ATO -

IM Hydrofill Controller Link

IM ATO Return Hydrofill Pump

Tunze Osmolator  Nano link (moved to quarantine tank)

Heater -

Cobalt heater link and

Aqueon heater link as backup

Ink-Bird  ITC-308 temperature controller

 

                   Filtration/Dosing:

 

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Sea Grape Fuge - (More info about Sea Grape Macro Algae)

Skimmer ( might add Tunze 9004 DC or similar) ???

ChemiPure Elite

MarinePure spheres biological filtration link

Miracle Mud from Eco System Aquarium link 

Live Rock- 20-30lbs (not 100% sure).

Bare bottom, no sand. 

 

*Introduction to Calcium & Alkalinity     Maintenance

 

                        Livestock

 

   Fish:

• 1 Tailspot Blenny  info 

• 2 Ocellaris/Clownfish info

• 1 Purple Firefish  Info

• 1 Circus Goby info

 

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Curacao Deepwater Chromis. Rare and kinda unknown species. 

 

 Invertebrates:

• Reg. Hermit Crab 2 - moved to Q tank

• Mixed snails 8 (Astreas + Turbos) Turbos moved to Q tank. 

Emerald Crab 4-5 (2 big ones went to QT)

• Sexy Shrimp 1

• Skunk Cleaner Shrimp 1

• Halloween Hermit Crab 4 (moved to Q tank

• Red Crab (appears to be Flameback Fiddler-Crab/Uca flammula) - in quarantine tank

• Blue Leged Hermit Crab 3 

• Coco Worms (Featherduster types and care)

• Maxima Clam (care link) 

 

Click here for more info about various clean-up-crew options and care

 

  Corals:

• Various Euphyllia 

• Chalice (no name)

• 2 Zoas

• 1 Neon Green Toadstool Leather 

• Purple Ribbon Gorgonian

• Blue tip Elegant coral

• IDK Mushroom 

• Yumas

• Rock Flower Anemones

• Red, Green & Putple Cap

• Forest Fire Monti Digitata (info & care)

• Pink Pocillopora

• Pink Bird’s Nest Seriatopora

• Green Spongodes Monti

• Purple & Green Milka Stylo

•WWC Cherry Tree

•Setosa

•Green Digitata

•Rainbow Montipora

•JF Freaky Hair Pavona

 

Torches care

Monti care

Frogspawn care

Chalice care

Toadstool care

Acropora Types

 

*Side note:  underlined species/products include link to more info. 

 

Cheers.

:)

 

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A Little Blue

Update April 15, 2018

Miracle Mud goes in (size: one brick).

Acrylic boxes (3.5x3.5x3) filled with 2.5” of M/M (rinsed several times with RODI before use) and mounted on baffle wall via included suction cup. 

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        Alfie nursery $8.99 on Am@zon

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          Miracle Mud, $30 for 2lbs brick

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A Little Blue

“Ambulance on standby”

 

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Added quarantine 8g cube with AquaClear 20, few Marine-Pure spheres, ChemiPure Nano Blue 1bag and filter floss. Cobalt NeoTherm heater Jebao RW-4 circulating/wave pump,  JBJ Nano Glo light. Also, I’m getting ready to get back to Triton dosing (not before system stabilizes tho. Need to find out more about Miracle Mud and how it interacts with Triton before I start dosing. It shouldn’t be an issue since “Triton 7 Other Method” allows certain level of mischievous behavior ?).

 

Cheapo dosing & ATO containers ($30 all 4)

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A Little Blue

“CUC Swap”

Original Hermits are out (9 out of a dozen). First, I don’t have enough nutrient algae in my tank to support all these guys. Second, they have been terrorizing (and killing) my smaller snails.

 

  Replacements: 

*Skunk Cleaner Shrimp

*Halloween Hermit Crab

*Red Crab

 (appears to be Flameback    

Fiddler-Crab/Uca flammula)

*Blue Leged Hermit Crab

Added old Maxspect Celestial C35-F  spot light. 

 

Hospital/quarantine 

image.thumb.jpg.88a41a128c36250293c3dbf5265b1d73.jpg

 

Acclimation happy box

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+ 1 frag

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A Little Blue

Previously empty middle section was seeded with handful of easier SPSes (Stylopora , digitata , birdnest etc.). Several more scattered around, including red & green cap. 

Tank stabilized and essential numbers look good enough to test the waters with selected beginners. (There are more frags I didn’t bother taking pictures of..... some other day perhaps) 

Still no sight of algae in the display but Sea Grapes grow like weeds. Trimming almost twice per week. Still don’t see a reason to skim, however. It’s a tool I might need/test down the road. 

 

Ca  420                          KH  9.5-9.8   

Mg 1360-1380              Salinity 1.026

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Pics taken right after transport, dip and glue down so not surprisingly, everything looks a little sad. 

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Dual magnetic DIY feeder 😂 (pellets on 1side/seaweed holder on the other)

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Tinny Sexy just went it. 

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Tinny Skunk arrived almost a week ago. Molted and doing just fine. 

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When I got this purple firefish, he was starved and shy. After several months, he is happy and fat as it can be. 

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Nothing to graze on so I need to babysit those guys. Can’t even count them all.... probably 5 or so. They don’t cause any trouble so I’m cool with taking care of them. 

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A Little Blue
On Sunday, April 29, 2018 at 12:13 AM, HarryPotter said:

Looking nice! Lots of detail. I can’t wait to see how the corals grow in :) 

Thank you. I’m not rushing. Probably won’t add anything for a while. 😎

Gonna try to figure out how efficient this filtration is and dial in dosing. Easy does it.

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mitten_reef

following along because I'm curious on how the triton-ish method will work out in an AIO.  very interesting stuff going on here, love the dosing line holder.  

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A Little Blue
4 hours ago, samnaz said:

very nice. welcome to the 30L club! 🤓

Thank you. Happy to be here. 

 

4 hours ago, micoastreefing said:

following along because I'm curious on how the triton-ish method will work out in an AIO.  very interesting stuff going on here, love the dosing line holder.  

Thank you and Triton dosing was tested last weekend but I needed to fine-tune my dosing pumps. Recalibrated pumps and doser is presently on test mode for the past week (Not hooked up to the tank). Just pumping liquids at assigned rates and amount to empty containers.

I need to make sure all is good to go b4 dosing (Starting next weekend). 

So far parameters are good. New SPS frags are doing OK. I do about 3-4 gallons water change every 2 weeks or so.

Fuge is working great. Still no algae of any kind in the display. 

There is nothing else to report......

- removed few Emerald crabs to quarantine. 

- replaced stock IM cover netting with aftermarket one (huge improvement in light penetration and overall clarity) 

- played around with different flow patterns and intensity

- ordered Random Flow Generators from VCA

- Installed InkBird temperature controller. 

- increasing my light intensity by %5 weekly

And that’s pretty much it. 

 

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A Little Blue
11 hours ago, micoastreefing said:

love the dosing line holder.  

I love it as well. The only problem was, flexible tubing would curl up (due to height and length) and splash liquids. And that would leave residue all over the chamber’ walls. So I came up with a little tweak that keeps the lines (now, ends are replaced with 1ml syringe tube) barely touching surface of the water and no more splashing. It also holds temp. probe from InkBird. Still need to tweak the probe to keep it perfectly still and fully submerged. 

 

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A Little Blue

Started dosing Triton (KH 11.2, Mg 1340 anCa 430),

recalibrated dosing pump (they were off by quite a bit) and Milwaukee Digital Refractometer (still waiting on new regents to make honest and accurate calibration).

Installed RFG random flow nuzzles which are great. They do slow down flow a bit so you need to increase your return pump output (my is in mid-400gph). 

 

         VCA flow rate recommendation:

Two 1/2in (RFG050)

Min.

250-400

Optimal

640-670

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Picking up another A160 Kessil later today. 

Other than that, no change and tank runs as it used to. 

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MP10 (detritus control) schedule via WiFi power bar. Keeps the bottom detritus free, adds extra circulation. On for 9hrs with breaks for feedings and short idle time. (Long pulse mode, from minimum to %25 every 15sec.) 

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ATO also on WiFi power plug (single/different brand). Easy way to turn it OFF during water changes or maintenance of the back chambers. 

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Light schedule. This will change when second Kessil arrives (waiting for mounting bracket). Not sure what the photosynthesis period is going to look like but definitely not like this. 

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Aqamai KPS wave pump schedule:

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I had to move frogspawn (in the middle) from previous location where it wasn’t mounted securely. It dropped and fell a couple times. It caused damage to one of the branches. I thought that I lost it but decay stopped and I am optimistic to see it recovering.  

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Some pictures and edits are added without making a new post so I don’t have to pollute forum with constant updates or changes. 

 

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On 4/22/2018 at 3:08 PM, A Little Blue said:

“CUC Swap”

Original Hermits are out (9 out of a dozen). First, I don’t have enough nutrient algae in my tank to support all these guys. Second, they have been terrorizing (and killing) my smaller snails.

 

  Replacements: 

*Skunk Cleaner Shrimp

*Halloween Hermit Crab

*Red Crab

 (appears to be Flameback    

Fiddler-Crab/Uca flammula)

*Blue Leged Hermit Crab

Added old Maxspect Celestial C35-F  spot light. 

 

Hospital/quarantine 

image.thumb.jpg.88a41a128c36250293c3dbf5265b1d73.jpg

 

Acclimation happy box

B546C131-A002-4AFC-AF13-8DE161DC341C.thumb.jpeg.3b875cdf626b24a3e0836853bf0fd55a.jpeg

 

+ 1 frag

image.thumb.jpg.86517eab78013ec114d9bd815737b558.jpg

 

 

 

IMO, Snails should never be included in CUC.  If hermits would stop at one snail  shell for a house, I might tolerate them, but hermit crabs are almost always carnivores.  Even the “algae eating” Emerald Crab will rip mussel flesh from Anemone tentacles.

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A Little Blue
On 5/11/2018 at 7:26 PM, Subsea said:

IMO, Snails should never be included in CUC.  If hermits would stop at one snail  shell for a house, I might tolerate them, but hermit crabs are almost always carnivores.  Even the “algae eating” Emerald Crab will rip mussel flesh from Anemone tentacles.

Only Halloween crabs (3) and few tinny Blue legged remain. Emeralds and regular hermits went to quarantine tank. 

Yes, they can be an a$$holes, especially in tank with no algae whatsoever in the display. 

On 5/11/2018 at 7:19 PM, Subsea said:

Gorgeous tank & pictures.  

 

I get dosing trace minerals using Triton Method, to supplement alkalinity demand of fast growing SPS.  What about nutritional requirements?  This includes both organic and inorganic nutrients.  Coral get 20%-40% of their nutritional uptake from bacteria and zooplankton.

 

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2015/2/aafeature

I probably gonna need to look into it. Dosing Aquavitro Fuel twice a week but I was also considering adding Brightwell Koralle VM Vitamins/Mineral supplements. The thing is, tank is far from matured and I like to take it slow...... really slow. But any advice that can make this work is always considered and appreciated. Triton seems to work but I have some issues dialing it in with cheap dosing pumps. 08572B5B-F3CE-4386-8076-6020D3B61411.thumb.jpeg.a047d7718e59b766dbf4bd06724bf8f0.jpeg

 

 

 

 

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A Little Blue
6 hours ago, Subsea said:

“Slow wins the race” said the tortoise to the hare.

 

Before adding products, allow your biological filter to mature.  

 

Dana Riddle article on coral nutrition shows that inorganic carbon dioxide grows coral, while organic carbon, like vodka, grows bacteria.

 

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2016/9/aafeature

 

What would be considered “safe” elevated range for alkalinity without causing burning effect? I am experimenting at the moment with raising Alk level and various corals respond a little different. I have increased feedings to elevate nutrition levels and lower the photosynthesis period/intensity to minimize bleaching. 

Any advice? 

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3 hours ago, A Little Blue said:

What would be considered “safe” elevated range for alkalinity without causing burning effect? I am experimenting at the moment with raising Alk level and various corals respond a little different. I have increased feedings to elevate nutrition levels and lower the photosynthesis period/intensity to minimize bleaching. 

Any advice? 

There are more exceptions than rules.  It depends on a lot of things and is species specific.  Read Dana Riddle’s comments.  

 

However, I do not follow lowering photoperiod.   If you are feeding extra nutrients to grow coral and raising alkalinity to grow coral, why would you reduce photoperiod!

 

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2016/9/aafeature

 

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A Little Blue
25 minutes ago, Subsea said:

There are more exceptions than rules.  It depends on a lot of things and is species specific.  Read Dana Riddle’s comments.

 

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2016/9/aafeature

 

I read that article but I am still a little puzzled. I boosted my Alk to 11, (Ca 430 and Mg 1340) to see how would that affect growth of several easier SPS corals. Interestingly enough, I spread frags of the same acros around the tank. Placed them at different flow, height in relation to light source, under direct light and “away” from it. Not all reacted the same way so it is quite interesting. Surely, light and flow plays the factor but still. 

%50 responds very well to that change, some are more or less the same and several shown some signs of beaching/tissue loss. I am trying to rectify the issue with more aggressive nutrient delivery and reducing photosynthesis period. It seems to pause the tissue issues for time being. It’s an experiment I am willing to conduct as all of those frags were freebies from a fellow reefer. Acros are one of the easiest to care for and more tolerable to certain, mischievous water changes. I see no difference in LPS and softies other than more vivid coloration and PE. 

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I can only repeat what I read.  Differrent SPS respond differently.  I have never grown SPS in 45 years of reef keeping.  I have not tested alkalinity,  nitrate or phosphate in the last 30 years.  I don’t think I can help you much with your quest on maximizing SPS production.

 

 

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A Little Blue
10 minutes ago, Subsea said:

I can only repeat what I read.  Differrent SPS respond differently.  I have never grown SPS in 45 years of reef keeping.  I have not tested alkalinity,  nitrate or phosphate in the last 30 years.  I don’t think I can help you much with your quest on maximizing SPS production.

 

 

I saw your tank a while back. Solid performer and seems like a well tuned oil machine. It’s probably safe to say that you can assess health of your tank from just looking at it. Unfortunately I am not quite there yet. I’m a little proactive when it comes to testing as dosing various supplement can be tricky and sometime harmful. Well, thank you for your advice and I’ll try to workout my low nutrient issues. Hopefully that will bring desirable effect. 👍

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On 5/4/2018 at 2:59 PM, A Little Blue said:

Thank you. Happy to be here. 

 

Thank you and Triton dosing was tested last weekend but I needed to fine-tune my dosing pumps. Recalibrated pumps and doser is presently on test mode for the past week (Not hooked up to the tank). Just pumping liquids at assigned rates and amount to empty containers.

I need to make sure all is good to go b4 dosing (Starting next weekend). 

So far parameters are good. New SPS frags are doing OK. I do about 3-4 gallons water change every 2 weeks or so.

Fuge is working great. Still no algae of any kind in the display. 

There is nothing else to report......

- removed few Emerald crabs to quarantine. 

- replaced stock IM cover netting with aftermarket one (huge improvement in light penetration and overall clarity) 

- played around with different flow patterns and intensity

- ordered Random Flow Generators from VCA

- Installed InkBird temperature controller. 

- increasing my light intensity by %5 weekly

And that’s pretty much it. 

 

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I haven’t finished reading through and I’m replying to an old post but, can you let me know where you got the replacement top? Was it diy or you got it as is?

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A Little Blue
On 5/12/2018 at 6:12 PM, 1891Bro said:

I haven’t finished reading through and I’m replying to an old post but, can you let me know where you got the replacement top? Was it diy or you got it as is?

Sure. I have used stock IM frame and just bought 1/4” netting on Am@zon for like 11 or $12. Removing the rubber seal that holds the netting is a bit PITA but certainly worth it and relatively easy. (You don’t need any special tool. Just flat screwdriver and a little patience) 

If you need a link to netting, let me know and I’ll DM you the info. There is enough material for 5 tanks like yours or 3 of mine. 

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