Nuvo 10 Chaeto Reactor

[IlliniMed]

Hello! Trying to figure out when i should start up a "hang on the back" chaeto reactor with the LED strips. Should I give it a couple weeks or start it up once I introduce fish/CUC? Thanks for the help! 

[burtbollinger]

on a 10g AIO, I'd say the effort is better spent plopping in a bag of purigen...just my 2 cents.

[IlliniMed]

1 minute ago, burtbollinger said:

on a 10g AIO, I'd say the effort is better spent plopping in a bag of purigen...just my 2 cents.

Thought about it - however I am a medical student so I'm trying to make this as close to "self sufficient" for a little neglect as possible if i'm at the hospital for multiple nights etc. What are your thoughts? 

[OPtasia]

A slightly modified aqua clear filter works well for little nano refugia like that. Just crazy glue a little plastic cross stitch mesh across the outflow to keep your chaeto in it and add the LED strip light across the top. Then, stuff it with chaeto.

 

I'd add it after you've cycled the tank completely and have gone through the ubiquitous diatom/cyano blooms associated with new tank syndrome. I'd also put the chaeto light on an appliance timer from the hardware store and set it up to run the refugia lights on the exact opposite light cycle as the main tank.

[OPtasia]

Purigen and Phosguard, small bag, replace monthly.

 

Filter pad/floss, use as mechanical filter. Replace weekly.

 

Chaeto, remove a clump monthly. Grows like nuts.

[burtbollinger]

13 minutes ago, IlliniMed said:

Thought about it - however I am a medical student so I'm trying to make this as close to "self sufficient" for a little neglect as possible if i'm at the hospital for multiple nights etc. What are your thoughts? 

my thoughts are you are overthinking it all tremendously, which is totally natural to do at this stage....I think a chaeto reactor that small is gonna do very little....will make more noise, be a point of failure for the tank and overall you'd be better keeping it simple...doing a 3 gallon water change 1x a week (takes about 10min....could do it every other week), running purigen and thats it...that's what I'd do, anyway.

 

others may disagree....

 

but to me, on a 10g....a clean, slick IM Nuvo 10g....to be adding aquaclears, chaeto, LEDs, timers....LOL....sounds like a mess and a pain...and its impact....probably zilch. 

 

I'd put my time, money and effort into a good ATO and a Hanna dKH checker...maybe an inkbird for your heater...not tinkertime activities.

 

[IlliniMed]

12 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

my thoughts are you are overthinking it all tremendously, which is totally natural to do at this stage....I think a chaeto reactor that small is gonna do very little....will make more noise, be a point of failure for the tank and overall you'd be better keeping it simple...doing a 3 gallon water change 1x a week (takes about 10min....could do it every other week), running purigen and thats it...that's what I'd do, anyway.

 

others may disagree....

 

on a 10g....a clean IM 10g....to be adding aquaclears, chaeto, LEDs, timers....sounds like a mess and a pain...and its impact....probably zilch.

 

 

14 minutes ago, OPtasia said:

Purigen and Phosguard, small bag, replace monthly.

 

Filter pad/floss, use as mechanical filter. Replace weekly.

 

Chaeto, remove a clump monthly. Grows like nuts.

12 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

 

 

I thought it would be a hassle but the results that I have seen from quit a few tanks makes me think it's the way I want to go. Every little bit helps for me since I have no idea what my schedule will be like for the hospital. But I do agree! It adds another spot for disaster but I think i'll take my risks in it seeing the results. When do you think it would be a good time to add this? A few weeks after adding the fish? Was looking to add more of something like this with simple LED strip wrapped around https://www.marinedepot.com/AquaMaxx_FR_SE_GFO_Carbon_and_Biopellet_Hang_On_Filter_Media_Reactor_Internal_Filter-AquaMaxx-UJ45107-FIFRIT-vi.html

 

Already grabbed myself an ATO Smart Micro. Going to grab a Hannha eventually (Which would you say are must haves for the Hannah? ) 

 

[burtbollinger]

13 minutes ago, IlliniMed said:

 

I thought it would be a hassle but the results that I have seen from quit a few tanks makes me think it's the way I want to go. Every little bit helps for me since I have no idea what my schedule will be like for the hospital. But I do agree! It adds another spot for disaster but I think i'll take my risks in it seeing the results. When do you think it would be a good time to add this? A few weeks after adding the fish? Was looking to add more of something like this with simple LED strip wrapped around https://www.marinedepot.com/AquaMaxx_FR_SE_GFO_Carbon_and_Biopellet_Hang_On_Filter_Media_Reactor_Internal_Filter-AquaMaxx-UJ45107-FIFRIT-vi.html

 

I've done enough with tanks to tell you in one persons experience, its not the way to go....

If I were you....I'd passively run purigen, and passively run GFO occasionally as needed.  I might look into a media rack from inTank....run small passive amount of Rox carbon, a bag of purigen and maybe occasionally a half-recommended dose of GFO.  

 

that, vs a small HOB DIY chaeto reactor wrapped with LEDs....no brainer.

I'd bet my life on it. (Or maybe a snails life)

@Clown79  am I off base here?  Apologies if so.

[IlliniMed]

1 minute ago, burtbollinger said:

I've done enough with tanks to tell you in one persons experience, its not the way to go....

If I were you....I'd passively run purigen, and passively run GFO occasionally as needed.  I might look into a media rack from inTank....run small amount of Rox carbon, a bag of purigen and maybe occasionally a half-recommended dose of GFO.  

 

that, vs a DIY chaeto reactor wrapped with LEDs....no brainer.

I'd bet my life on it.

@Clown79  am I off base here?  Apologies if so.

 

Hmmm - Regardless I was going to run 2 little Chemi-Pure Blue packets with FIlter floss in the IM Media Rack that I got with the tank. POSSIBLY throw a marine pure block in the back chamber

[burtbollinger]

1 minute ago, IlliniMed said:

 

Hmmm - Regardless I was going to run 2 little Chemi-Pure Blue packets with FIlter floss in the IM Media Rack that I got with the tank. POSSIBLY throw a marine pure block in the back chamber

I think those are both good ideas.  

[OPtasia]

19 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

my thoughts are you are overthinking it all tremendously, which is totally natural to do at this stage....I think a chaeto reactor that small is gonna do very little....will make more noise, be a point of failure for the tank and overall you'd be better keeping it simple...doing a 3 gallon water change 1x a week (takes about 10min....could do it every other week), running purigen and thats it...that's what I'd do, anyway.

 

others may disagree....

 

but to me, on a 10g....a clean, slick IM Nuvo 10g....to be adding aquaclears, chaeto, LEDs, timers....LOL....sounds like a mess and a pain...and its impact....probably zilch.

 

I'd put my time, money and effort into a good ATO and a Hanna dKH checker...maybe an inkbird for your heater...not tinkertime activities.

 

I beg to differ but there's more than one path to a goal. People are keeping filterless reefs and HOB filter reefs that would tell us we're both doing it wrong. Lol.  

 

Check out some of these pico reefs from Elite Reef in Denver. Looks like they have it pretty much down to a bio-science. All chaeto and water changes. No chemical media.

 

11 minutes ago, IlliniMed said:

 

I thought it would be a hassle but the results that I have seen from quit a few tanks makes me think it's the way I want to go. Every little bit helps for me since I have no idea what my schedule will be like for the hospital. But I do agree! It adds another spot for disaster but I think i'll take my risks in it seeing the results. When do you think it would be a good time to add this? A few weeks after adding the fish? Was looking to add more of something like this with simple LED strip wrapped around https://www.marinedepot.com/AquaMaxx_FR_SE_GFO_Carbon_and_Biopellet_Hang_On_Filter_Media_Reactor_Internal_Filter-AquaMaxx-UJ45107-FIFRIT-vi.html

 

I'd add it when nitrates and phosphates (read this as green algae growth) begins to be a problem (after the cycle, after the fish and CUC have been added).

 

6 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

I've done enough with tanks to tell you in one persons experience, its not the way to go....

If I were you....I'd passively run purigen, and passively run GFO occasionally as needed.  I might look into a media rack from inTank....run small amount of Rox carbon, a bag of purigen and maybe occasionally a half-recommended dose of GFO.  

 

that, vs a DIY chaeto reactor wrapped with LEDs....no brainer.

I'd bet my life on it.

@Clown79  am I off base here?  Apologies if so.

That's what I switched up to once I yanked all of the biomedia out of my biocube. Now, it's running tossable filter pads as the mechanical filter (replaced weekly), a little bag of purigen and phosguard doing passive filtration and a big clump of chaeto in sump #2 of the biocube. I run a magna fuge light on a 12/12 light cycle opposite of the main tank lights.  I haven't looked back since. 

[IlliniMed]

4 minutes ago, OPtasia said:

I beg to differ but there's more than one path to a goal. People are keeping filterless reefs and HOB filter reefs that would tell us we're both doing it wrong. Lol.  

 

Check out some of these pico reefs from Elite Reef in Denver. Looks like they have it pretty much down to a bio-science. All chaeto and water changes. No chemical media.

 

I'd add it when nitrates and phosphates (read this as green algae growth) begins to be a problem (after the cycle, after the fish and CUC have been added).

 

That's what I switched up to once I yanked all of the biomedia out of my biocube. I haven't looked back since. 

 

Awesome - You two have been fantastic in helping me. Thank you for taking the time to let me pick your brains! I guess it all comes down to if I want to put the effort into it and how my tank is responding to everything once I get the fish and CUC in there. Lets see what Clown79 has to say : ) 

[burtbollinger]

5 minutes ago, IlliniMed said:

 

Awesome - You two have been fantastic in helping me. Thank you for taking the time to let me pick your brains! I guess it all comes down to if I want to put the effort into it and how my tank is responding to everything once I get the fish and CUC in there. Lets see what Clown79 has to say : ) 

Optasia makes a good point...big fan of Mike's tank that he did...and he works at Elite Reef.

when I used chaeto on my old Nano-cube, I recall I just stripped away the backing and lit it....i wonder if that wouldnt be a better solution....or a solution?  Just not a fan of the LED wrapped canisters.  The simpler the better, IMO.  Anyway, perhaps more people can chime in and help you decide.  good luck!

[OPtasia]

Hehehehe. 

 

He'll tell us we're doing it wrong.

 

But in a very nice and perfectly reasonable way. 

[OPtasia]

2 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

Optasia makes a good point.

when I used chaeto on my old Nano-cube, I recall I just stripped away the backing and lit it....i wonder if that wouldnt be a better solution....or a solution?  Just not a fan of the LED wrapped canisters.  The simpler the better, IMO.  

That's the beauty on the newer generation bio cube. Sump #2 is clear/transparent for magnetic refugia lighting.  Eventually i'll replace that magna fuge I have with a new chaeto max light. That might be an option for the OP. 

[IlliniMed]

1 minute ago, burtbollinger said:

Optasia makes a good point.

when I used chaeto on my old Nano-cube, I recall I just stripped away the backing and lit it....i wonder if that wouldnt be a better solution....or a solution?  Just not a fan of the LED wrapped canisters.  The simpler the better, IMO.  

Isn't there more risk of that getting "dirty" and dealing with the clean up headaches instead of having it in its own little cannister that you can rip away the cheato once a month. 

[burtbollinger]

3 minutes ago, OPtasia said:

Hehehehe. 

 

He'll tell us we're doing it wrong.

 

But in a very nice and perfectly reasonable way. 

She, i think

1 minute ago, IlliniMed said:

Isn't there more risk of that getting "dirty" and dealing with the clean up headaches instead of having it in its own little cannister that you can rip away the cheato once a month. 

yes.  I gave up.  but I had rubble too....which sucked

 

 

[OPtasia]

PS: Pass on the marine pure blocks. They tend to disintegrate over time into a pile of mush.

[OPtasia]

1 minute ago, IlliniMed said:

Isn't there more risk of that getting "dirty" and dealing with the clean up headaches instead of having it in its own little cannister that you can rip away the cheato once a month. 

The risk is about the same. Where there is flow and chaeto (or any macro algae), you'll find strands and bits of it from time to time. Pods too. 

[Subsea]

I have enjoyed the discussion from two successful reef keepers with differrent methods.

 

@IlliniMed

With a ten gallon aquIrium, you should “keep it simple”.  By that, I mean, you should choose livestock that are simple to keep.

 

 When I first started keeping marine ornamentals 45 years ago, there were no books, internet or hobby forums.  So, I kept it simple.  During those early years I worked on a 28 day on 28 day off schedule overseas.  With a combination of deep sand beds and remote refugiums, my system biofilter recycled nutrients through complex food webs that processed inorganic nutrients like phosphate and nitrate into live food to feed corals & fish. 

 

Soft corals like colorful mushrooms, leathers, GSP, Xenia are easy to care for.  Include an LPS.   None of these corals are difficult and yet each has its own beauty.  With these diverse soft corals, chemical warfare is inevitable so always use small amounts of GAC.  I am not a big fan of automatically using a phosphate removal resin unless needed.  On my 25 year 75G Jaubert Plenum display set up, I add ammonia to use up phosphate from bulk water.  On that small of a tank, I see little point to a lighted refugium.  Provide some sort of matrix for biofilm to grow on.  This will feed your amphipods and copepods as well as food entering from display tank.  

Depending on your aquascaping preferences, grow some ornamental macro in your display tank.  Many fish & inverts will graze on biofilms that grow on macro surfaces.  This is a natural process of recycling nutrients instead of exporting.   Consider your substrate as an important part of your biofilter.  Seed it with good quality live rock that is diver collected for maximum diversity. 

 

Because I do large tanks, some of what I say will not have the same importance in small tanks.  If you keep it natural, you will be happy with your results of “less technology / more biology”.  I suggest you read John Turlock’s book “The Natural Reef Aquarium”.

 

PS:  Getting back to keeping it simple.  Use aroggonite substrate as an alkalinity buffer and a source of trace minerals.  Do not run a reverse light schedule.  Allow pH to drop during lights out just as it does on the reefs of the world, which fluctuate between 7.85 - 8.15.  Aroggonite will begin to dissolve at a pH of 8.05.

[IlliniMed]

1 hour ago, Subsea said:

I have enjoyed the discussion from two successful reef keepers with differrent methods.

 

@IlliniMed

With a ten gallon aquIrium, you should “keep it simple”.  By that, I mean, you should choose livestock that are simple to keep.

 

 When I first started keeping marine ornamentals 45 years ago, there were no books, internet or hobby forums.  So, I kept it simple.  During those early years I worked on a 28 day on 28 day off schedule overseas.  With a combination of deep sand beds and remote refugiums, my system biofilter recycled nutrients through complex food webs that processed inorganic nutrients like phosphate and nitrate into live food to feed corals & fish. 

 

Soft corals like colorful mushrooms, leathers, GSP, Xenia are easy to care for.  Include an LPS.   None of these corals are difficult and yet each has its own beauty.  With these diverse soft corals, chemical warfare is inevitable so always use small amounts of GAC.  I am not a big fan of automatically using a phosphate removal resin unless needed.  On my 25 year 75G Jaubert Plenum display set up, I add ammonia to use up phosphate from bulk water.  On that small of a tank, I see little point to a lighted refugium.  Provide some sort of matrix for biofilm to grow on.  This will feed your amphipods and copepods as well as food entering from display tank.  

Depending on your aquascaping preferences, grow some ornamental macro in your display tank.  Many fish & inverts will graze on biofilms that grow on macro surfaces.  This is a natural process of recycling nutrients instead of exporting.   Consider your substrate as an important part of your biofilter.  Seed it with good quality live rock that is diver collected for maximum diversity. 

 

Because I do large tanks, some of what I say will not have the same importance in small tanks.  If you keep it natural, you will be happy with your results of “less technology / more biology”.  I suggest you read John Turlock’s book “The Natural Reef Aquarium”.

 

PS:  Getting back to keeping it simple.  Use aroggonite substrate as an alkalinity buffer and a source of trace minerals.  Do not run a reverse light schedule.  Allow pH to drop during lights out just as it does on the reefs of the world, which fluctuate between 7.85 - 8.15.  Aroggonite will begin to dissolve at a pH of 8.05.

Thank you for all of this great information! I appreciate you taking the time to teach me something as I enter this hobby. My question to you would be this... if we are trying to go with "more natural" wouldn't the media reactor converted to a cheato reactor in the back make this a reality? Throwing the algea in the back chambers would not do anything because (From my understanding) you need at least 20% water volume dedicated to the reactor for it to even be worth while. The only way to get this to work on a tiny Nuvo10 would be the hang on the back reactor. This is for reference as to what I want to do 

 

 

[SURVEYMAN46123]

I ran a reactor on my Nuvo 10 for awhile.   Honestly it made my tank too clean for my LPS and softies.   However I'm debating on trying it again, and removing the chemipure blue from my media basket and see if it works better.  

 

 

[Subsea]

7 hours ago, IlliniMed said:

Thank you for all of this great information! I appreciate you taking the time to teach me something as I enter this hobby. My question to you would be this... if we are trying to go with "more natural" wouldn't the media reactor converted to a cheato reactor in the back make this a reality? Throwing the algea in the back chambers would not do anything because (From my understanding) you need at least 20% water volume dedicated to the reactor for it to even be worth while. The only way to get this to work on a tiny Nuvo10 would be the hang on the back reactor. This is for reference as to what I want to do 

 

 

Of course you can do it.  Obviously, natural has many connotations.  I have always used macro in my display tanks.  If you consider a reactor “natural filtration” than do it.  IMO, it is unnecessary and adds one more failure point in the plumbing.

[Clown79]

On 3/19/2018 at 6:34 PM, IlliniMed said:

 

Awesome - You two have been fantastic in helping me. Thank you for taking the time to let me pick your brains! I guess it all comes down to if I want to put the effort into it and how my tank is responding to everything once I get the fish and CUC in there. Lets see what Clown79 has to say : ) 

I'm so sorry. I never saw my name tagged on this.

 

I don't really think there is a wrong or right way. There are many ways to run a tank. 

Some are stickers for "you must do this" but really, there are so many hobbiests doing things differently and ending up with the same results.

 

 

 

I don't think fuge, reactor, or skimmers are necessary on all nano's but that doesn't mean there aren't benefits when using them.

 

Chaeto is a nice natural method. Many say a fuge needs to be 20% of the tank volume for good results but there are many who have a different opinion because they got results with their mini fuge.

 

I think lighting is a main factor of success with chaeto and flow.

 

I'd like to set one up myself and test the theory. If I could find an affordable light I plan to.

 

In an aio you can certainly remove the vinyl, set up chamber with chaeto and light on the rear. What harm can be done trying it out besides the expense?

 

 

And Yes, I am a she😊

 

 

 

 

 

[A Little Blue]

6 hours ago, Clown79 said:

I'm so sorry. I never saw my name tagged on this.

 

I don't really think there is a wrong or right way. There are many ways to run a tank. 

Some are stickers for "you must do this" but really, there are so many hobbiests doing things differently and ending up with the same results.

 

 

 

I don't think fuge, reactor, or skimmers are necessary on all nano's but that doesn't mean there aren't benefits when using them.

 

Chaeto is a nice natural method. Many say a fuge needs to be 20% of the tank volume for good results but there are many who have a different opinion because they got results with their mini fuge.

 

I think lighting is a main factor of success with chaeto and flow.

 

I'd like to set one up myself and test the theory. If I could find an affordable light I plan to.

 

In an aio you can certainly remove the vinyl, set up chamber with chaeto and light on the rear. What harm can be done trying it out besides the expense?

 

 

And Yes, I am a she😊

 

 

 

 

 

What’s your budget for the light? And what kind of fuge were you thinking of? I couldn’t find your aquarium under your profile.