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Fluval Evo 13.5 Owners Thread


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4Swanson2Reefer0N00b
On December 16, 2018 at 2:40 PM, mattitheowl said:

What do people recommend regarding placement of power heads?  I'm currently cycling the tank so haven't yet put it in but I'm thinking of adding it soon but not sure on placement.  I'm running all the stock lid front and back and my power head is cabled inside the tank with a suction cup so need to consider that in terms of running the cable.

You don't need one imo for this tank.  I put one in and it was way too much flow.  Just my experience.  I slightly upgraded the stock pump to one that moved about 180 gph and I'm gravy

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15 minutes ago, 4Swanson2Reefer0N00b said:

I slightly upgraded the stock pump to one that moved about 180 gph and I'm gravy

@4Swanson2Reefer0N00b Can I ask what return pump you're using? I tried a sicce .5 and an eheim 1000 but they were both too noisy (and the eheim got too hot).

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4Swanson2Reefer0N00b

Gresch CHJ-600. Was like 15 bucks maybe and it added about 30 gph from what the original stock pump was quoted at but I believe it was worn out a little as well.  Was a good upgrade imo.  Everything else in my tank is stock from the box filter setup and my tank is on fire.  Just figured out the routine.  

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On 1/29/2019 at 7:13 PM, 4Swanson2Reefer0N00b said:

Everything else in my tank is stock from the box filter setup and my tank is on fire.  Just figured out the routine. 

Filter setup? You mean using the stock sponge and carbon?

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4Swanson2Reefer0N00b
2 hours ago, xthunt said:

Filter setup? You mean using the stock sponge and carbon?

Precisely.  Bio media as well. I'm a total noob to the salt water hobby and everything as is has been great in my opinion and I really want to know the upsides others are seeing. 

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2 hours ago, 4Swanson2Reefer0N00b said:

Precisely.  Bio media as well. I'm a total noob to the salt water hobby and everything as is has been great in my opinion and I really want to know the upsides others are seeing. 

I like seeing tanks that do good using stock equipment. 

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On ‎1‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 4:51 AM, mekesterson93 said:

It is supposed to do that. 

I'm not sure which part you're referring  to but, do you mean it's supposed to push the media basket towards the rear of the tank at an angle when inserted 'outwardly'? I wouldn't have thought that was the case, but if so, do you know why? 

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mekesterson93

Yes, the in-tank plastic skimmer piece pushes the basket outwards. And I'm not exactly sure on the reasoning but I'm assuming it is to ensure a "tight fit" with the basket and tank. I also think it helps direct all the water through the media and not down the back and around the rack. 

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Hey All, first post here and looking forward to learning alot about the hobby. Haven't had a chance to really dig into many post but figured I'd post here first as I just ordered my Evo last night. I've had very large fw tanks in the past but this will be my first attempt at sw, let alone a reef tank. Any advice on the start/setup is greatly appreciated.

 

One quick question is the use of lace rock from my old fw tank. I have some really nice pieces and let's face it, they're already paid for! They've been dry for about 8yrs now but still have quite a bit of dried algae on them. Will this be okay to leave on and possibly help the cycling process, along with the live sand I plan on setting it up with......Thanks

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2 hours ago, Bones19 said:

Hey All, first post here and looking forward to learning alot about the hobby. Haven't had a chance to really dig into many post but figured I'd post here first as I just ordered my Evo last night. I've had very large fw tanks in the past but this will be my first attempt at sw, let alone a reef tank. Any advice on the start/setup is greatly appreciated.

 

One quick question is the use of lace rock from my old fw tank. I have some really nice pieces and let's face it, they're already paid for! They've been dry for about 8yrs now but still have quite a bit of dried algae on them. Will this be okay to leave on and possibly help the cycling process, along with the live sand I plan on setting it up with......Thanks

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Did you ever use any medication or copper based products in your tanks with this rock in? If so, I'd not use it in the new tank as it could leach toxins which would harm invertes and corals.

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4 hours ago, hyoib said:

Did you ever use any medication or copper based products in your tanks with this rock in? If so, I'd not use it in the new tank as it could leach toxins which would harm invertes and corals.

I used a few different meds in that tank, but I dont believe they were copper based. I'd have to check my old post on another forum to see what I used. Off hand I know I used melafix, metro and penicillin. 

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19 hours ago, mekesterson93 said:

Yes, the in-tank plastic skimmer piece pushes the basket outwards. And I'm not exactly sure on the reasoning but I'm assuming it is to ensure a "tight fit" with the basket and tank. I also think it helps direct all the water through the media and not down the back and around the rack. 

hmmm interesting...

 

I tend to find that it works better with the skimmer in the opposite way. If it's slotted in with the 'tab' facing inwards you tend to get a lot of water circumventing the media basket and therefore in turn the media. whereas if the 'tab' is facing outwards, it creates a sort of waterfall effect which passes 95% of the water directly into the media basket.

 

I'll be doing my water change tomorrow so I will get a few pictures to make sure we're on about the same thing :) :)

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mekesterson93
8 hours ago, afcajax73 said:

hmmm interesting...

 

I tend to find that it works better with the skimmer in the opposite way. If it's slotted in with the 'tab' facing inwards you tend to get a lot of water circumventing the media basket and therefore in turn the media. whereas if the 'tab' is facing outwards, it creates a sort of waterfall effect which passes 95% of the water directly into the media basket.

 

I'll be doing my water change tomorrow so I will get a few pictures to make sure we're on about the same thing 🙂 🙂

Are you using the stock plastic skimmer piece? The in-tank one that I'm talking about can only be used facing chamber one. Also has tabs on the top to direct water flow into the basket and not around it. Also, causes a "waterfall effect".

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I'm suffering with Cyano (I think - kind of a pinky colour on the sand bed) in one corner.  The Astreas snails are demolishing most of the other algae but won't touch this stuff.  It's really frustrating.  Any ideas to combat it?  I't really light on feeding my two clowns (once ever 2-3 days) but every week I do a water change and sweep it all up, but then within 24 hours it's back.

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25 minutes ago, mattitheowl said:

I'm suffering with Cyano (I think - kind of a pinky colour on the sand bed) in one corner.  The Astreas snails are demolishing most of the other algae but won't touch this stuff.  It's really frustrating.  Any ideas to combat it?  I't really light on feeding my two clowns (once ever 2-3 days) but every week I do a water change and sweep it all up, but then within 24 hours it's back.

What’s your nitrate/phosphate level? Are you using media? How are you exporting nutrient?  Have you got any additional power heads/return pump upgrade or just stock equipment? Are you using RO water? How long are your lights on for?

 

Answering these may help get to the root of your problem and help you find a solution. 

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53 minutes ago, hyoib said:

What’s your nitrate/phosphate level? Are you using media? How are you exporting nutrient?  Have you got any additional power heads/return pump upgrade or just stock equipment? Are you using RO water? How long are your lights on for?

 

Answering these may help get to the root of your problem and help you find a solution. 

Deep breath...

 

My nitrates have been quite high (~20ppm) but water changes haven't seemed to reduce them so not sure if it's a testing issue.

 

Phosphate was 0 but have read that cyano can lock up phosphate.

 

I'm using a skimmer, floss carbon and Purigen.

 

I do weekly water changes.

 

I've got one additional power head basically opposite the return pump.  Stock return pump.

 

I top up with RO and water change with purchased salt water from LFS.

 

Lights are on for 10 hours, then at 2% "moonlight".

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mekesterson93
2 hours ago, mattitheowl said:

I'm suffering with Cyano (I think - kind of a pinky colour on the sand bed) in one corner.  The Astreas snails are demolishing most of the other algae but won't touch this stuff.  It's really frustrating.  Any ideas to combat it?  I't really light on feeding my two clowns (once ever 2-3 days) but every week I do a water change and sweep it all up, but then within 24 hours it's back.

I had good success with just sucking all of it when doing water changes. Take the big part off and just use the hose. It will take a few times but it will work. Also if there is any on the rocks, get a toothbrush and wipe it off and siphon it out at the same time.

Edit: upping your flow to have the least amount of dead spots will help as well

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9 hours ago, mekesterson93 said:

I had good success with just sucking all of it when doing water changes. Take the big part off and just use the hose. It will take a few times but it will work. Also if there is any on the rocks, get a toothbrush and wipe it off and siphon it out at the same time.

Edit: upping your flow to have the least amount of dead spots will help as well

 

I've adjusted the flow a couple of times but it seems impossible to get decent flow everywhere.  It's happening in the bottom left hand corner (front) (assuming the filter chambers are on the right).  I've got the return nozzles pointed directly at at, then a power head going directly across that diagonally.  All the contents seem happy, just this one corner looks like ass.

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11 hours ago, mattitheowl said:

Deep breath...

 

My nitrates have been quite high (~20ppm) but water changes haven't seemed to reduce them so not sure if it's a testing issue.

 

Phosphate was 0 but have read that cyano can lock up phosphate.

 

I'm using a skimmer, floss carbon and Purigen.

 

I do weekly water changes.

 

I've got one additional power head basically opposite the return pump.  Stock return pump.

 

I top up with RO and water change with purchased salt water from LFS.

 

Lights are on for 10 hours, then at 2% "moonlight".

Ok - the balance is out between the ratio of nitrate and phosphates (redfield ratio). I have linked in an excellent video by BRS to explain the ratio in detail. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/faq-42-what-is-the-relation-between-nitrates-and-phosphates/. It could be an issue with your test kits, but from my personal experience when I was using GFO, it stripped all the phosphate out leaving nitrate relatively high and I got cyano and diatoms.

 

The classic approach to treating cyano is to increase flow, reduce lighting/feeding and reasonable water changes. Have to say i have had limited luck with this approach.  Personally the best way I've treated cyano is this: 1) Siphon up as much cyano; 2)  After siphoning, add chemiclean red slime remover (see link at the bottom of the post) and do a black out of all lighting for three days and cover the tank to stop extra light from the room coming in. 3) After 3 days do a 80%+ water change, this is equally important as it removes all the breakdown products from the cyano.

 

 I know people say there are no cure all treatments in this hobby, but chemiclean red slime remover has never let me down and is SO effective.

 

If you do do a black out, just be carefully to cover the top of the tank (including the little hole on the stock lid) to stop jumpers. I've done two black outs and both times my randall goby has jumped through any small gap to reach light. First time I found him dead on my tank lid, second time I found he'd jumped into the second chamber in my fluval evo.

 

Hope this helps. 


(https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEMICLEAN-RED-Slime-Stain-Cyanobacteria-Remover-Aquarium-Treatment-Chemi-Clean/183549368103 epid=0&hash=item2abc651727:m:mvMHPscWnd22LQPsSBOFFoA:rk:1:pf:1&var=690909491877&frcectupt=true)

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On 1/29/2019 at 7:13 PM, 4Swanson2Reefer0N00b said:

Gresch CHJ-600. Was like 15 bucks maybe and it added about 30 gph from what the original stock pump was quoted at but I believe it was worn out a little as well.  Was a good upgrade imo.

@4Swanson2Reefer0N00b I just put this return pump in during today's water change, and it's making a really annoying intermittent rattle. The normal motor hum is fine, but that rattle is going to make me crazy! I've had the worst luck with return pumps, honestly. This is the third one I've tried and I'm just about to give up. At least it was cheap! 😄 

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mekesterson93
2 hours ago, R2Dork said:

@4Swanson2Reefer0N00b I just put this return pump in during today's water change, and it's making a really annoying intermittent rattle. The normal motor hum is fine, but that rattle is going to make me crazy! I've had the worst luck with return pumps, honestly. This is the third one I've tried and I'm just about to give up. At least it was cheap! 😄 

Have you tried the hydor centrifugal 300gph pump?. Smaller footprint than stock and doesn't rattle around. I feel like it's an upgrade from the stock return pump and it's adjustable. It's also cheap, got it from Amazon for 20 bucks. 

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Update on the tank 1.5 years. I put a ps2 skimmer on and works amazing just make sure you keep cleaning the mesh filter on it. Everything growing good. Not a single loss in corals.

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