NanoRox Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Initially when I started my tank about two months ago I loaded up my media basket with PhosGuard, ChemiPure Elite and Purigen. Looking at it now, there is some redundancy. I am planning on modifying the 2nd chamber into a refugium and change up my media basket I like the Chemipure elite so I will keep that. Not sure about the Purigen but getting rid of the Phosguard. I admittedly don't have any phosphates or silicates but with the chaeto I don't think I will need it. thoughts? Quote Link to comment
Subsea Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 If your nutrients are that low, in all likelihood, the Chaeto will starve and disintegrate. Is the Chaetomorphy for nutrient export or to grow pods as in a refugium. In most cases, pods do not require light and proliferate in unlit areas. Quote Link to comment
NanoRox Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 8 minutes ago, Subsea said: Is the Chaetomorphy for nutrient export or to grow pods as in a refugium. In most cases, pods do not require light and proliferate in unlit areas. Both. My guess is as I remove some of the filter media available nutrients will increase and feed the chaeto but I could be wrong. I also have zero fish or shrimp etc. just snails and corals. I plan on adding a fish so that will also increase the available nutrients. It may be a chicken before the egg thing. Perhaps I need to add the fish before I add the chaeto. Then of course if it aint broken don't fix it I suppose. :-) oh as for the pods...I have some in the display but would like to increase their number as well so was considering that benefit also. Quote Link to comment
Subsea Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 At this time, I would not add chaeto. It will starve and disintegrate making a mess to clean up. The pods don’t need light, in my experience, they proliferate in dark areas and avoid predators during daylight. So leave the lights out of your filter chambers and pods will feed on biofilm from nutrients. In effect, this is a primary food web we’re algae/biofilm consume inorganic nutrients with pods feeding on algae and thus becoming live food for the tanks coral and fish. Adult pods for the fish and larvae for the filter feeders, which includes coral. 1 Quote Link to comment
Subsea Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Duane, You should add bio load for the the tank. Everything organic in your tank needs to feed. You have established your nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. There populations will self regulate to the food input. Bacteria and algae are the foundation for all food chains in the marine environment. As your tank, matures differrent food webs will become established. Each hobbiest determines the filtration methods that work best for them. In in my case, with a 25 year old tank, I shifted the dynamics of my tank to favor filter feeders by turning out the lights in my 30G EcoSystem Mud/Macro refugium and added cryptic sponges three months ago. Oddly enough, it is the only place that I can maintain a Chilli Coral, which I have had for 60 days. 1 Quote Link to comment
NanoRox Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 2 minutes ago, Subsea said: You should add bio load for the the tank I agree. I have been thinking of adding a shrimp and/or fish. Not sure why I have been so reluctant. all very good info. Thanks. As an aside, would you see any issues with seeding my tank with pods? I assume the few I have now (evidenced by seeing them on the glass) came from coral frags. I dip the frags BUT that may not kill the pods...I dont really know. Quote Link to comment
Subsea Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Always a good idea to seed pods. Understand this about amphipods &copepods, while they may live side by side, they eat differrent things. Amphipods, in general, are herbivores and copepods are detrivores. Seed with both. Yes your pods came in on the live rock. It is difficult for me to understand a coral dip that does not kill pods. What other stuff makes it through the coral dip? I never dip unless their is an obvious problem. When I dip, it is with a 10% hydrogen peroxide solution for ten minutes. The only thing that it does not kill is coral and Aptasia. Everything else: pods, worms, snails, micro stars and the list goes on. It is collateral damage to micro inverts. Quote Link to comment
NanoRox Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 14 minutes ago, Subsea said: It is difficult for me to understand a coral dip that does not kill pods. It may...I have no idea. just thinking out loud really. you are probably right that they came in on the live rock. Thanks for the info on the amphipods and copepods. I will seed both. Quote Link to comment
Clown79 Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 My experience with low or non existent nutrient levels kills macroalgae and quickly. I have tried mermaid fan, chaeto, and dragons breath. My nutrient levels are between 2-5 (depending on which tank) and all of the macro has disintegrated like @Subsea mentioned. I do use media but even before the media, it still happened. 2 Quote Link to comment
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