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Cultivated Reef

Single Coral Only Tank Help


AceSlick

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Hi all,

 

I want to start this off by saying I have never owned an aquarium before but have recently been inspired to try one out. The type that I'm interested in would be a <5 gallon tank that would only house one type of coral. Think of it as a plant in a pot. After looking on the web for quite sometime I stumbled upon these builds:

Ecoreef Zero - https://reefbuilders.com/2011/09/29/ecoreef-zero-population-1/

Zero Reef East - https://reefbuilders.com/2011/12/17/reef-east/

 

I'm trying to figure out what the best way to go about this build would be. Right now I figure the tank, lighting, and a heater are easy to get. I haven't decided on a type of coral yet and am very open to suggestions as the selection is enormous (Seriously I have no idea how you can wrap your heads around the choice. I'm impressed!). It sounds like I need to get some nitrifying bacteria onto the filter to start, and from what I was told I would want to keep some live rock in the tank before the coral and let the filter absorb what it needs before removing the live rock and cleaning the tank. I think that covers most if not all of my questions. I would love to hear back from the community to see if I can get some advice and pointed in the right direction. Thanks in advance, you guys have one of the coolest hobbies I have ever seen and I hope to get into it more one day.

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You have a few routes you can go.

 

1- a large hang on filter with liverock rubble  in it (keep it in a mesh bag for easy filter cleaning), and bio filter media. That would be your permanent bio filter.  No need to remove liverock, that's the biological filter.

 

I would also use filter floss to remove particles in the water

 

 

2- sump system- this allows you to place liverock in the sump for bio filter but out of site of display tank

 

3- all in one tank- place rock rubble and bio media in the back chambers

 

Choosing a coral is difficult. It's what appeals to you. Lps and softies are easier for beginners, care and lighting wise. It will still need to be fed, water topped up daily, and Params tested.

 

I couldn't pick just one myself, I like too many...its why i have 3 tanks ?

 

I'd make a list of my favourites, then break it down from there on. 

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Ecoreef zero just used a tiny internal filter out of the light so you couldn't really see it, if you're willing to spend a bit more for a cleaner look an AIO would be best. For a tank that simple you only need minimal filtration tbh.

For a coral, go with something that'll take up some space, especially height if it's a a vertically oriented tank like the ecoreef zero. I've always wanted to do either Cespitularia or green Sinularia. Another option could be photosynthetic gorgonians, all three are relatively hardy and should be fit for a beginner.

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12 hours ago, Clown79 said:

You have a few routes you can go.

 

1- a large hang on filter with liverock rubble  in it (keep it in a mesh bag for easy filter cleaning), and bio filter media. That would be your permanent bio filter.  No need to remove liverock, that's the biological filter.

 

I would also use filter floss to remove particles in the water

Thanks for the reply!

 

#1 sounds the most appealing to me. Since it seems like the most simple for a beginner build. Would I be able to use sponge instead of liverock inside the filter? In the article I forgot to link; Eco Reef One (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/4/aquarium).

He says he is worried that live rock would eventually upset the balance of the ecosystem due to the microcavities being filled with nutrients, as well as hitchhikers would could come in on it.

 

Do your 3 tanks contain single species of coral in each or are is there a mix in them? I have a fear that one day my house will be filled with tanks haha.

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12 hours ago, 1.0reef said:

Ecoreef zero just used a tiny internal filter out of the light so you couldn't really see it, if you're willing to spend a bit more for a cleaner look an AIO would be best. For a tank that simple you only need minimal filtration tbh.

Thanks for the help!

 

I looked up AIO filters but the ones I saw were upwards of $1000 which is well out of my price range. I would prefer to keep it around $100, with $150 being my max. The part that confuses me the most is what goes inside of the filter machine. I've tried to find pictures and explanations but I haven't had much luck. As the poster above said, I can place live rock inside of the filter along with another bio filter media. The thing that worries me about that is that as the article says it could throw off the ecosystem eventually. Do you think I would be able to keep live rock by itself in the tank with the filter going to "marinate" it, and get nitrifying bacteria worked onto it and then remove the live rock, clean the tank, and put the coral in?

 

Edit: forgot to say thanks for the coral suggestions. A tank I am currently looking at is more vertically oriented so I will definitely keep those in mind.

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fishfreak0114

Sponges tend to become a nutrient trap, so I think live rock is a better option.  As for hitchhikers, they can come in on more than liverock.  Coral frags, for example.  Lots of hitchhikers are beneficial little critters like pods, bristle worms, and tiny brittle stars.  There are a few bad ones, but in my opinion the good outweighs the bad.  If you have liverock in the filter, there is no need for other biomedia, they serve the same purpose.  And if the rock is in a mesh bag, it would be easier to take out for cleaning.

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Awesome! Thanks for the reply! I'll definitely go in that direction then. Do you have any recommendations for a water filter that are $100-$150? Also the article mentions that water flow created by the filter is sufficient. Would I be correct in assuming that corals that prefer low flow current would benefit the most from it? Or is the filters water motion stronger than I am imagining?

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fishfreak0114

Lots of people use aquaclear filters.  They come in a variety of sizes so you can get the amount of flow you need.  inTank sells media baskets for them I believe if you wanted to go that route.

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Aquaclear 20 power filter seems like the best fit for a 5 gallon tank. What level of flow should I expect from this kind of filter? Also Aquaclear sell filter media bags for pretty cheap here (https://www.petland.ca/products/aquaclear-filter-media-bags?variant=1246021216). Would I want to remove the Aquaclear 20 carbon, Aquaclear 20 foam, and Aquaclear 20 biomax from the filter and only keep the filter bag filled with live rock inside it? Thanks again for all your help and sorry for all the questions, being a complete beginner without any friends in the hobby makes finding information online difficult.

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fishfreak0114

An AC 20 has a maximum output of 100g/h which would give you 20 times turnover.  That's decent for most soft and LPS I think.  I wouldn't use the biomax or foam, and I probably wouldn't use their carbon either.  Those little prepackaged bags can get pricey, you're better off buying a media bag and some bulk carbon.  I used to use the aquaclear carbon bags on all my freshwater tanks, but since switching to bagging my own I save a lot of money.  If it were me, I'd use an inTank basket and have a media bag with live rock rubble or some form of biomedia that can be easily cleaned, a media bag with carbon, and filter floss to trap particles.  Other forms of chemical filtration like phosguard and purigen can be useful but aren't necessary.  I use phosguard once every couple months, and just a tiny bit.  Glad I can be of help, questions are welcome :)

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So what I've gathered from your advice and online is that I would put the filter floss in the bottom 1/3rd of the inTank basket, the carbon and live rock in the middle (I think I'll start with premade bags just to get a feel but then switch out once I'm more invested), and then more filter floss in the top 1/3rd. A couple things I'm a little lost on are:

1) What size inTank basket do I need? The numbers listed on their site are kind of weird 12/13.5, and 32. Not sure what those mean.

 

2)How much live rock should go into a media bag, and how often should I replace it?

 

3) How often would I replace the carbon filters? From what I read those can last for months to a year but the companies try to get you to replace them so you buy more.

 

4) Someone recommended any 50 watt heater. Do you think that would be a good fit?

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fishfreak0114

1) Here's the AC20 media basket

http://shop.mediabaskets.com/AquaClear-20-Media-Basket-AC20MR.htm

Here's a diagram from their website of how the water moves through it

Flow%20Diagram%20Updated.jpg

I would put the floss where it is shown in the picture, then live rock in the main part with carbon on top.

 

2)  If you're not using liverock in your DT, I would put as much as you can.  Although the amount of biological filtration you need also depends on bioload.  Are you planning on fish?  And if you're putting live rock in your display, you probably wouldn't even need it in the filter.  Live rock doesn't get replaced.  I would just swish it around in your bucket of dirty water during a water change to clean out any debris.

 

3)  I change my carbon every 2 weeks to a month.  The frequency with which you need to change it partially depends on what you're keeping.  I have a fair amount of leathers which release some chemicals so I try to change mine every 2 weeks.  Once a month is a good baseline.  I've never heard of carbon lasting as long as a year.

 

4) A 50w heater should be sufficient.  I use an Ehein Jager Trutemp heater in my tank and like it.  The dial to set temperature is super inaccurate though (at least for the two I have) so it takes a little trial and error to get it where you want.  Mine is set at 73 and keeps the tank at 80.

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1) The main part being the large section on the left?

 

2) Ok cool. what confused me was that in the Eco Reef One article he says he avoids using live rock as he thinks that "the porosity of the rock can be a drawback in the long term maintenance of a reef system. Gnarly live rock tends to accumulate detritus and nutrients over time, not to mention a large population of invertebrates which add to the bioload of the aquarium.". As of now I plan on only having a single coral placed in the tank but as I get more comfortable with it I will begin to add more. At the time I don't expect to add any fish but am interested in harlequin shrimp.

 

3) I'll go with that time frame. I don't think they replaced their carbon often as it was what they had installed instead of live rock, in order to add nitrifying bacteria to the ecosytem without any other creatures.

 

4) I'll look into that one as a primary heater. Right now I'm looking on kijiji for tanks and most 5 gallon ones are included with a heater which I will use to prepare the replacement water for cleaning. Do you think 100% water change is overkill or necessary for such a basic setup?

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fishfreak0114

1) yep, the main part I was referring to is the large area on the left.

 

2) I don't see how live rock is a long term drawback, to me it is a natural method of biofiltration.  And although you will get small invertebrates living in your tank and on the live rock, they won't have a significant impact on the bioload.  They are beneficial and will help clean up any leftover food.  Harlequin shrimp eat starfish which would be a pretty messy food source.  If you go that route, expect to do larger water changes.

 

4) 100% water changes aren't necessary.  In the event of something getting really out of whack, it can be a good way to reset.  It's not harmful either, many pico owners do 100% water changes weekly and things thrive.  The amount of water you change depends on a few factors.  How often you're doing it (ex. small weekly or larger bi-weekly), what the bioload is (more waste means more/bigger water changes), and whether or not you're using water changes to replenish the elements.  If the coral you choose is an LPS, it will use calcium, alkalinity and magnesium as it builds it's skeleton, as well as trace elements.  Water changes can help replenish it.  When the coral gets larger, water changes may not be able to keep up, and dosing may be necessary.  I would start with 15% weekly or 25% biweekly and go from there.  Every system is different.  As my tank has matured, I can skip the occasional water change and go a month between with no ill effects.

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