Freshwater Hobbyist expiriments with a SW Nano Reef

[benstatic]

I have an off and on desire to set up a salt water corals focused aquarium for over 20 years.  I figure I should document this from planning to at least my first coral install.  

I am going to go super slow, mostly because I am a little paranoid about the high cost of bad / inadequate equipment purchases, and also because everything I've read about this hobby takes place over months, not weeks.

 

Planning

I have always balked in thinking about this hobby at the planning stage - there is too much to think about it seems like, and I just get overwhelmed.

I like configurable options to my setups, I want to avoid buying non-useful equipment or all of the sudden decide I need an enhancement that requires some painful or impossible customization to some other part of my (at that point) living system..  Corals aren't the most mobile of creatures - I assume it is very difficult to transfer sand and live rock to a different tank and not have some sort of cycle begin and potentially die off to occur.

 

I am currently stalled on deciding on a tank and configuration. 

For the various hobbies, I've built a large tank stand - and have plenty of space on this shelving to put multiple tanks (I have mts at the moment, and want a coral tank to at least consume one of these spaces)

Bottom shelf = 60inches long, 14inches deep, 12 inches high

Middle shelf =60inches long, 14inches deep, 24 inches high

Top shelf = 60 inches long, 14 inches deep - not height restricted - just don't tip over!  (Stand will be secured to a wall as earthquake proofing).

A 20 gal long has already spoken for either the middle / top shelf (1/4 of the tank ready shelving).

 

I was thinking about a 20-30 gallon tank for this project.  I am not yet sure how much peripheral equipment I want or need and how much space these extras will consume..

Sumps?  Fuges?  Hang on back filtration?  I need advice here. 

• I don't know how top off systems work / where they are kept. 
• I don't know how ugly a fuge / sump is going to be if it occupies some of the visual space on the stand, vs inside the tank.  (Though chaeto, a live sand bed, a mangrove would be super cool to look at if the rest of the sump didn't look like garbage).
• I don't know what all in one options are going to offer me, and if I can sort of buy them in parts (tank with partition, but not the light?)
• I don't know the financial impacts of my options.
• I think I should probably go to the local SW fish store and start talking to the guy and looking at tank configurations more closely.

 

I am going to guess I will want to buy my own lighting setup (LEDs).

As I think this through, I have begun gathering the known equipment.

• I have already bought a 4 stage 75 gpd RODI unit from bulk reef supply.  It at least can serve my other hobbies (raising poison dart frogs and their offspring, watering a number of sensitive orchids, a planted 55 gal CO2 injected FW tank).
• I will go buy a heater and powerhead for mixing saltwater in a 5gal bucket (and buy the bucket).
• I can go buy some aragonite sand, a refractometer and salt mix.. 
• I'll get at two circulation pumps to start with - unless I should wait on this until I better know my tank config..
• Other than that, I need to understand the tank size - I will install 50% live / 50% dead rock sourced from a LFS, and then I can start planning the rest at that point.

 

 

[pappadumplingz]

I reckon you go full dry rock instead of 50% each, and use some bottled bacteria or some cycled media to start the cycle. Made the mistake of using live rock and I regret it immensely 

[benstatic]

2 minutes ago, pappadumplingz said:

I reckon you go full dry rock instead of 50% each, and use some bottled bacteria or some cycled media to start the cycle. Made the mistake of using live rock and I regret it immensely 

Is this cause you had nasty little buggers tag along?  I thought half the fun of reef keeping was the screwball guys you get from the live rock purchase...?

[pappadumplingz]

14 minutes ago, benstatic said:

Is this cause you had nasty little buggers tag along?  I thought half the fun of reef keeping was the screwball guys you get from the live rock purchase...?

Yea I have had to deal with crabs, hydroids, bristle worms, basically all the nasty stuff. Dryrock plus dipping your corals will make a world of a difference. Only decent thing I've got on my rock is a mini sps, but they are rare and I only just noticed it.

[Lula_Mae]

3 hours ago, benstatic said:

I have an off and on desire to set up a salt water corals focused aquarium for over 20 years.  I figure I should document this from planning to at least my first coral install.  

I am going to go super slow, mostly because I am a little paranoid about the high cost of bad / inadequate equipment purchases, and also because everything I've read about this hobby takes place over months, not weeks.

 

Planning

I have always balked in thinking about this hobby at the planning stage - there is too much to think about it seems like, and I just get overwhelmed.

I like configurable options to my setups, I want to avoid buying non-useful equipment or all of the sudden decide I need an enhancement that requires some painful or impossible customization to some other part of my (at that point) living system..  Corals aren't the most mobile of creatures - I assume it is very difficult to transfer sand and live rock to a different tank and not have some sort of cycle begin and potentially die off to occur.

 

I am currently stalled on deciding on a tank and configuration. 

For the various hobbies, I've built a large tank stand - and have plenty of space on this shelving to put multiple tanks (I have mts at the moment, and want a coral tank to at least consume one of these spaces)

Bottom shelf = 60inches long, 14inches deep, 12 inches high

Middle shelf =60inches long, 14inches deep, 24 inches high

Top shelf = 60 inches long, 14 inches deep - not height restricted - just don't tip over!  (Stand will be secured to a wall as earthquake proofing).

A 20 gal long has already spoken for either the middle / top shelf (1/4 of the tank ready shelving).

 

I was thinking about a 20-30 gallon tank for this project.  I am not yet sure how much peripheral equipment I want or need and how much space these extras will consume..

Sumps?  Fuges?  Hang on back filtration?  I need advice here. 

• I don't know how top off systems work / where they are kept. 
• I don't know how ugly a fuge / sump is going to be if it occupies some of the visual space on the stand, vs inside the tank.  (Though chaeto, a live sand bed, a mangrove would be super cool to look at if the rest of the sump didn't look like garbage).
• I don't know what all in one options are going to offer me, and if I can sort of buy them in parts (tank with partition, but not the light?)
• I don't know the financial impacts of my options.
• I think I should probably go to the local SW fish store and start talking to the guy and looking at tank configurations more closely.

 

I am going to guess I will want to buy my own lighting setup (LEDs).

As I think this through, I have begun gathering the known equipment.

• I have already bought a 4 stage 75 gpd RODI unit from bulk reef supply.  It at least can serve my other hobbies (raising poison dart frogs and their offspring, watering a number of sensitive orchids, a planted 55 gal CO2 injected FW tank).
• I will go buy a heater and powerhead for mixing saltwater in a 5gal bucket (and buy the bucket).
• I can go buy some aragonite sand, a refractometer and salt mix.. 
• I'll get at two circulation pumps to start with - unless I should wait on this until I better know my tank config..
• Other than that, I need to understand the tank size - I will install 50% live / 50% dead rock sourced from a LFS, and then I can start planning the rest at that point.

 

 

There's lots of options out there.  I'd recommend you consider both your budget and what you best like the look of.  Do you like the sleek look of no visible equipment in the display?  Or does it not bother you to have equipment in or on the tank?  For AIO options in your size range--I believe there's a biocube or two and there's the Innovative Marine 20 peninsula, lagoon, 20 fusion (which do not come with lights)...then there's Red Sea's nano option, and of course the standard 20H, 20L, 29, etc.  One option you might look at if you're thinking of plumbing is doing a display macro refugium, they can look pretty cool!  I'd wait to buy powerheads/pumps till you know what you're looking for, but for mixing saltwater you could just pick up a maxi-jet and a cheap tetra heater, under $25 or so for both.  Sand, refractometer, salt can also be ordered online--there's tons of options but a good basic starter one that's easy to find is Instant Ocean.  Later you can change as you figure out what you want in your parameters, etc.  Most people keep ATO's below the tank/in cabinet I think, I've never actually used one lol.  Another rock option you might look at is the man made rock like Reef Ready, it's painted purple and injected with bacteria to make it live.

 

What kind of darts do you raise?  I've considered them for a long time but not sure I'll be in a position to have any for a while.  I still find them fascinating, however!

 

 

[benstatic]

14 hours ago, Lula_Mae said:

What kind of darts do you raise? 

tinctorius 'Azureus' (Blue poison dart frog) - they started breeding, now i have like 20 tadpoles that I am starting to panic about what to do - but its another fun project.  Cheaper and easier than a satwater hobby btw .  but fruit fly cultures aren't as interesting as sand and live rock critters.

 

Thanks for the suggestions - I am going to look at display fuges - but I might want to save on space.  The options are overwhelming - at some point I have to choose!

 

[Subsea]

18 hours ago, pappadumplingz said:

Yea I have had to deal with crabs, hydroids, bristle worms, basically all the nasty stuff. Dryrock plus dipping your corals will make a world of a difference. Only decent thing I've got on my rock is a mini sps, but they are rare and I only just noticed it.

Aside from looks only a mother could love, what is nasty about a bristle worm.  They are outstanding detrivores that will maintain sandbed, population will rise and fall with food supply.  Most importantly, bristle worms reproduce in the tank.  That means live food in the water to feed filter feeders including coral.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Subsea]

19 hours ago, benstatic said:

I have an off and on desire to set up a salt water corals focused aquarium for over 20 years.  I figure I should document this from planning to at least my first coral install.  

I am going to go super slow, mostly because I am a little paranoid about the high cost of bad / inadequate equipment purchases, and also because everything I've read about this hobby takes place over months, not weeks.

 

Planning

I have always balked in thinking about this hobby at the planning stage - there is too much to think about it seems like, and I just get overwhelmed.

I like configurable options to my setups, I want to avoid buying non-useful equipment or all of the sudden decide I need an enhancement that requires some painful or impossible customization to some other part of my (at that point) living system..  Corals aren't the most mobile of creatures - I assume it is very difficult to transfer sand and live rock to a different tank and not have some sort of cycle begin and potentially die off to occur.

 

I am currently stalled on deciding on a tank and configuration. 

For the various hobbies, I've built a large tank stand - and have plenty of space on this shelving to put multiple tanks (I have mts at the moment, and want a coral tank to at least consume one of these spaces)

Bottom shelf = 60inches long, 14inches deep, 12 inches high

Middle shelf =60inches long, 14inches deep, 24 inches high

Top shelf = 60 inches long, 14 inches deep - not height restricted - just don't tip over!  (Stand will be secured to a wall as earthquake proofing).

A 20 gal long has already spoken for either the middle / top shelf (1/4 of the tank ready shelving).

 

I was thinking about a 20-30 gallon tank for this project.  I am not yet sure how much peripheral equipment I want or need and how much space these extras will consume..

Sumps?  Fuges?  Hang on back filtration?  I need advice here. 

• I don't know how top off systems work / where they are kept. 
• I don't know how ugly a fuge / sump is going to be if it occupies some of the visual space on the stand, vs inside the tank.  (Though chaeto, a live sand bed, a mangrove would be super cool to look at if the rest of the sump didn't look like garbage).
• I don't know what all in one options are going to offer me, and if I can sort of buy them in parts (tank with partition, but not the light?)
• I don't know the financial impacts of my options.
• I think I should probably go to the local SW fish store and start talking to the guy and looking at tank configurations more closely.

 

I am going to guess I will want to buy my own lighting setup (LEDs).

As I think this through, I have begun gathering the known equipment.

• I have already bought a 4 stage 75 gpd RODI unit from bulk reef supply.  It at least can serve my other hobbies (raising poison dart frogs and their offspring, watering a number of sensitive orchids, a planted 55 gal CO2 injected FW tank).
• I will go buy a heater and powerhead for mixing saltwater in a 5gal bucket (and buy the bucket).
• I can go buy some aragonite sand, a refractometer and salt mix.. 
• I'll get at two circulation pumps to start with - unless I should wait on this until I better know my tank config..
• Other than that, I need to understand the tank size - I will install 50% live / 50% dead rock sourced from a LFS, and then I can start planning the rest at that point.

You have done all the planning that you need to do.  Consider that you are getting set up advice from SPS advocates.  You must choose a direction that your tank will take and that chooses the equipment.  I strongly suggest you do what Lula Mae suggested.  Set up a 20G mixed garden lagoon tank.  MaxiJet power head for internal circulation and a HOB for chemical filtration using GAC.  Consider this a display refugium for you to start out with.

 

Before you get inundated with recommendations in the opposite direction, let me illuminate you with some reef science about protein skimmers.  Ken Felderman a PHD research scientist has published peer reviewed papers on carbon dosing in reef tanks effect on bacteria.  “The data shows that protein skimmers are at best 35% effective on removing DOC in reef tanks, GAC is 60% effective and the biological filter in a mature reef tank removed 75% of DOC.”<

 

19 hours ago, benstatic said:

 

 

[benstatic]

Tank research:

Footprint and Dimension Summary:

I have found that all-in-one saltwater tanks are wider and shorter for the most part than their freshwater cousins.  I assume this is to enable stronger light levels at substrate without sacrificing water volume (single spot light as opposed to the long light strip).  The only AIO I could find that will fit cleanly on the stand was:

 

Option 1: 

Marine Fusion Peninsula 20gal  - this is 12 wide X 30 long X 13 high inch - where the filtration compartment is on the end of the long side.  This would include a 211 GPH return pump and three compartment filter.  Retail for $250

 

The other AIO models were all quite a bit wider - close to cubical.  If I wanted to use any of them, I would have had to reduce in gallons (run almost pico tank - at 14 gal I have more options), or get a new stand, or modify my existing stand to use them.  My stand was really built around the dimensions of a FW tank - and these all in one tanks are fatter.

Option 2:

I could do this myself using standard aquarium sizes.  I could probably buy and drill 29g (30 long X 12 wide  X 18 high).  If I went this route, I would add a configuration to build out a 10 gal tank as a sump with a couple slices of acrylic to create 3 partitions - one of them a fuge.  It sounds like with a sump that small, I can house either a refugium or a skimmer, but prob not both?  I'd have to buy a return pump (Maxijet MJ1200, a 300gph pump - $40) and some PVC for the plumbing (do people use flexible tubing, or do they require PVC?).   If I could get the tank drilling done, I'd have to learn a bunch of new stuff about sump configurations (compartment volume ratios), not to mention the skills to plumb it all, but it seems like I could get away with this for something like $150.  Or just start with the 30 gal aquarium pre-drilled with caps / plugs instead of a connected sump for only like $50-60 and then tack on the sump after things are running, cycling (my ignorance of where the tank gets drilled might be showing here  - no idea if you can 'tack it on').

 

I am leaning option 2 here...  Some configuration questions remaining:

• A lack of skimmer as an option (assuming I went fuge in my sump sacrificing space required for a skimmer).  But I imagine if I got desperate - I could hang a skimmer on the back - right?  Or blow up my fuge later and swap for a skimmer if I were desperate.
• I've heard about overflowing sumps - that sounds terrifying - maybe that is just with non-plumbed tanks relying on HoB overflows?  Sump research is definitely needed before making my decision.
• Can I get the 30 gal drilled and started while researching / building the sump?  When no corals or livestock are included, it seems like all that is happening is nitrogen cycling and I wouldn't need a sump until I wanted to hide equipment or was worrying about water quality (corals / livestock)....  I would want to seed the sand bed with bacteria in the sump sooner rather than later - so I wouldn't want to wait too long (I'm sticking with the idea of 50 / 50 live to dry rock ratio.  I like the idea of goofball stuff in the tank, even if some shouldn't be there when corals are introduced.)

[Lula_Mae]

4 hours ago, benstatic said:

tinctorius 'Azureus' (Blue poison dart frog) - they started breeding, now i have like 20 tadpoles that I am starting to panic about what to do - but its another fun project.  Cheaper and easier than a satwater hobby btw .  but fruit fly cultures aren't as interesting as sand and live rock critters.

 

Thanks for the suggestions - I am going to look at display fuges - but I might want to save on space.  The options are overwhelming - at some point I have to choose!

 

Azureus are so pretty!  I've been interested in thumbnails.  I find the variety of isopods interesting, my favorites are Giant Canyon and the P. scaber calico and dalmatian varieties.  I'd like to get my hands on the new orange dalmatians that a hobbyist bred.

 

Re: a ten gallon sump--I think it would depend on the size of the chambers and the size of the equipment.  I've never run either a sump or a skimmer so hopefully someone can chime in.  On my 5.5 I'm using an AquaClear 70 modified into a refugium with some macro in there and it holds my heater--some with larger tanks use AC 110.  One tank I remember with this was @Lalani's 40 breeder a few years back (pretty sure she used a 110).  Honestly, with a tank under 40 gallons or so, you can get away without a skimmer if you do regular water changes.  Another option that I admittedly don't know a lot about might be to run a sump minus refugium, and implement a chaeto reactor which is becoming more popular.  If you have an idea how you'd want to plumb the main tank, I don't see why you couldn't start drilling, but I might wait until you know for sure how you want things laid out (but that's how I like to do things).  I think overflowing sumps happens with both drilled and not-drilled tanks, but I believe there's some sort of check valve type thing that can be installed in the piping to prevent it (again, hope someone with experience here can chime it).

[benstatic]

Tank decision made -

For simplicity, I've decided no sump to begin.  I am going to get a 29 gal tank, and when I decide to add a sump, it will be fed through a HoB overflow, and a return that goes over the rim - no drilling.  I might decide between now and then that I want something scrappy like an HoB with a refugium or something else.  This way I am not committed to a drilled setup with rigid PVC.  I like that configurability and re-usability of an intact tank (not to mention the cheaper initial purchase).

 

Now to make some purchases: 

Tank

Salt

Refractometer

Sand - enough to cover 1.5" or so? - The "Marine Depot" sand calculator says I need 22 lbs of (I am thinking medium grain) sand!!!

Still need my RODI unit to arrive, and then a bucket to mix it

Heater

 

I will pause there before going on a rock adventure - I haven't figured out how people are arranging their rock piles without them falling over - gravity?

[pappadumplingz]

9 hours ago, Subsea said:

Aside from looks only a mother could love, what is nasty about a bristle worm.  They are outstanding detrivores that will maintain sandbed, population will rise and fall with food supply.  Most importantly, bristle worms reproduce in the tank.  That means live food in the water to feed filter feeders including coral.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mainly the looks lmao. Also people down here seem to be against them in tanks, maybe because of the horror story's of them big idk. Seen a lot of posts on the local fb forums of people ridding them. Also don't really like them because of their fibre glass needles. Had a similar experience with a plant in New Zealand and it wasn't fun. Hope that clears it up..

[Subsea]

32 minutes ago, pappadumplingz said:

Mainly the looks lmao. Also people down here seem to be against them in tanks, maybe because of the horror story's of them big idk. Seen a lot of posts on the local fb forums of people ridding them. Also don't really like them because of their fibre glass needles. Had a similar experience with a plant in New Zealand and it wasn't fun. Hope that clears it up..

What do you use to perform the function of the bristle worn in the substrate?

[Lula_Mae]

4 hours ago, benstatic said:

Tank decision made -

For simplicity, I've decided no sump to begin.  I am going to get a 29 gal tank, and when I decide to add a sump, it will be fed through a HoB overflow, and a return that goes over the rim - no drilling.  I might decide between now and then that I want something scrappy like an HoB with a refugium or something else.  This way I am not committed to a drilled setup with rigid PVC.  I like that configurability and re-usability of an intact tank (not to mention the cheaper initial purchase).

 

Now to make some purchases: 

Tank

Salt

Refractometer

Sand - enough to cover 1.5" or so? - The "Marine Depot" sand calculator says I need 22 lbs of (I am thinking medium grain) sand!!!

Still need my RODI unit to arrive, and then a bucket to mix it

Heater

 

I will pause there before going on a rock adventure - I haven't figured out how people are arranging their rock piles without them falling over - gravity?

You'll probably be fine with a 20 pound bag of sand.  I do about an inch usually, less room for detritus to collect and easy to keep clean, but some like it deeper (I have kept only pico tanks thus far so my perception may be skewed lol).  A lot of people use Eheim Jager or Cobalt Neotherm heaters but you may have a preference from your freshwater days.  Some use just gravity with rocks, and some will epoxy them together.  I just did this in my little contest jar and I like it because I can lift the whole thing out at once for cleaning (which it needs because algae ugh).

 

Fiji Pink is a popular sand, it isn't really pink but it is a very pretty sand imo.  I'm using it in my new 15L I'm setting up tonight!

[pappadumplingz]

25 minutes ago, Subsea said:

What do you use to perform the function of the bristle worn in the substrate?

Don't have any lmao. Sorry to disappoint 

[Subsea]

What does “Don’t have any Imao” mean.  While I know what “Sorry to disappoint” means, what application does that have to the dialogue.  

 

Perhapes we are not on the same frequency.  Let me try again.   If you do not use bristle worms as detrivores in your substrate, what do you use for sandbed maintenance?

[pappadumplingz]

18 minutes ago, Subsea said:

What does “Don’t have any Imao” mean.  While I know what “Sorry to disappoint” means, what application does that have to the dialogue.  

 

Perhapes we are not on the same frequency.  Let me try again.   If you do not use bristle worms as detrivores in your substrate, what do you use for sandbed maintenance?

Don't have any substrate. And when I did I used a turkey baster every water change to clean the sand.

[Subsea]

In essence, you replaced the bristle worm.

[pappadumplingz]

5 minutes ago, Subsea said:

In essence, you replaced the bristle worm.

I guess? Gonna have substrate in the new tank, but might try twin spot gobies or a rainford goby 

[Subsea]

Interesting fish.  When reef fish are comfortable in their surroundings, they will entertain.

[Subsea]

7 hours ago, Lula_Mae said:

You'll probably be fine with a 20 pound bag of sand.  I do about an inch usually, less room for detritus to collect and easy to keep clean, but some like it deeper (I have kept only pico tanks thus far so my perception may be skewed lol).  A lot of people use Eheim Jager or Cobalt Neotherm heaters but you may have a preference from your freshwater days.  Some use just gravity with rocks, and some will epoxy them together.  I just did this in my little contest jar and I like it because I can lift the whole thing out at once for cleaning (which it needs because algae ugh).

 

Fiji Pink is a popular sand, it isn't really pink but it is a very pretty sand imo.  I'm using it in my new 15L I'm setting up tonight!

An inch is a perfect substrate for the reasons that Lula Mae mentioned.  I keep Big tanks and 1” works there also.  Another reason I like an 1” of substrate is when placing live rock with irregular surface on bottom side, the substrate provides a stable base.  For particularly big rocks, I add more substrate.    However, the most important reason for substrate is the colonization by micro fauna and fana.  This is the foundation of your biological filtration.  Nutrient recycling is the name of the game and live food for tank filter feeders is the prize.

 

When I look into my tank with the lights out, many different photosynthetic corals are feeding in the dark.  Just what are they feeding on?  Bacteria to start with.  What else are they feeding on?  Larvae from reproducing snails, pods, bristle worms, mini stars and the list goes on.  What I have just described is the tip of the iceberg in natural filtration.

[Subsea]

Two 55G tanks with 1” substrate of CaribSea “Special Reef Grade” aroggonite.

 

Last picture is a tumble culture of Dragon’s Breath, note the bare bottom.

[Subsea]

Benstatic,

 

Considering, that you have a long flat shelf for display and utility, you can set up remote display refugiums.  Let your first tank be that macro mixed garden lagoon.  It should remind you of your fresh water planted tanks, except the colors can get outrageous.  Once this tank matures, you can attach it to anything and feed your system while processing nutrients.

 

 

[benstatic]

Thanks guys!

I made some modifications to my plan, and also some purchases.

I took advantage of the local big box $1 per gallon sale - and got a 20 gal long.  This will better fit my stand, and be more accessible for water changes, etc than a 29gal.

I bought dry sand, dry rock, a refractometer, salt, a heater.

For water changes I now have a bucket and a small heater, small submersible powerhead.

 

I have now 12 pounds of dry rock sitting on a 1-1.5" sand bed in an empty aquarium.  It looks awesome, and I am very excited to get this started.

I am just waiting on my RODI unit to arrive, and I can fill the tank, warm it up and pause.  I will go buy live rock soon after - maybe another 10-12 pounds.

 

I couldn't find some of the things I have been looking for.  I need to make a few online purchase, and should probably buy other equipment at the same time.  It sucks that the LFS basically doubles the prices on equipment I can find online - I would much rather give my money to these guys - even with a modest markup.  Maybe I just stick with them for live rock and livestock - the prices on some of these corals are outrageous - I am going to have to prepare myself there.

 

I need to still get:

• Light(s)
• Circulation pumps
• Water test kit

I am currently researching the following:

• How much flow I want - was thinking 2 Koralia 240s (480 gph) - but SPS corals and wave motion is something I find interesting.
• The light I want - maybe something like the GalaxyHydro 165W dimmable LED

I've gotten a good way down the road. - its almost worth taking a picture - will do so soon.

[benstatic]

Found this little gem in another thread.  My Freshwater API master kit (mostly Nitrogen cycling) - can be used for monitoring Saltwater - just use a different color chart:

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Downloads.html#ammonia

 

Save myself $115 on Salifert or RedSea test kits - jeez those are outrageous.  If for some reason my API kit becomes inadequate or I feel is unreliable, I might replace with one of those.  If I get in to LPS / SPS corals - I will want a Ca, Mg, Si or other coral nutrient test kit for dosing.  But I don't need to get ahead of myself