Alkalinity and PH

[brianinak]

DKH of 8.7

PH of 7.79 to 8.04

recently calibrated apex ph probe

instant ocean salt mix/rodi

 

2 montipora frags

1 frog spawn frag

1 candy cane frag

1 lavender mushroom

 

DKH and Ph have been decreasing over time.  weekly 12% water changes, consisant and have done twice this week

 

I am working under the assumption that LPS are growing and therefore using calcium and decreasing dkh, lowering it an PH.  I know dkh within natural ocean water and PH is little low, not ideal.  Most mixes are far higher than 8.7 so think the goal is to have dkh higher than 8.7

 

I have purchased instant ocean sea buffer.  Minimal no reviews found.  I have some mixed with 3/4 cup of tank water, not fully dissolving.  Plan to add to sump at half of instructions.

 

Has anyone used this product? 

 

Going to throw away mix and gather more info.  Tank is happy and healthy from what I can tell.  Corals growing, mushroom preparing to split I think.

 

reviews of instant ocean sea buffer?  Advice?  Do I just need to chill?

 

[1967type1]

I have used it in the past and it works ok, that’s all I can say. Sometimes it would rais alk way to fast and to much and shock my corals especially my hammer. Other times it wouldn’t do anything. I personally like liquid alk and clac products do bring up those numbers. 

[brianinak]

thank you!

[NanoReefMinimalist]

DKH goes down could be due to low magnesium. Magnesium prevents alkalinity and calcium from bounding with each other and precipitate. 

[brianinak]

last mg was 1360 a week ago.  I test today.

[holy carp]

I would not worry about the pH, as it is probably a reflection of CO2 in the room.  Photosynthesis will temporarily increase pH as it takes CO2 out of the water, so if the number/size of corals or amount of light changed, that would have an effect.

 

This article from Randy Holmes-Farley may be worth a read

 

I think focusing on the dKH (and balanced Ca) is sufficient.  Your dKH does not sound low at 8.7, but that sea buffer will increase Alk without increasing Ca if I read it correctly.  You may be better off with Kalk or 2-part if you want to manage dKH, but don't chase pH.

[blasterman]

dKH can dive fast, especially in smaller younger tanks because it's the prime source of carbon for establishing bacteria colonies and other organisms. Cyano and diatoms can also eat dKH quickly. In mature tanks that don't have heavy SPS load it should not dive so fast. 

 

In younger tanks I've seen dKH dive a whole point or more in 24 hours requiring constant replenishing.  Once the tank gets established dKH then drops at a slower / steadier rate.

 

Pre packaged reef buffers are snake-oil and barely better than novelty stores selling cans of de-hydrated water (just add water). Alk buffer = baking soda. Pre bottled reef buffer is a few tablespoons of baking soda in purifed water sold at 1000x markup. Get a box of baking soda from a local  grocery store for .99cents, and use any online reef calculator to do the math and tell you how much is needed. Empty some take water into a 16oz drink bottle until it's half full, add the baking soda to the bottle, shake it up vigorously, then pour that back in the tank. Try to not to raise dKH more than a single point in 24 hours.  IMO, a target value of 9 is fine.

 

Ignore pH. 

[brianinak]

thank you, that feels like the approach I want to take, other post have talked about using baking soda as well.   Have not used the "snake oil" 

[burtbollinger]

i would be using B-ionic 2-part paired with a good Hanna Dkh Checker and a decent Calcium test kit.  I wouldn't touch the stuff you mentioned in your OP

[brianinak]

 I have the hanna DKH and red Sea pro calcium test.  I am doing water change today and will test tonight or tomorrow and the baking soda, sodium bicarbonate approach.  the post above makes a lot since.  I am having cyano and diatoms, diatoms appear to be winding down.  

6 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

i would be using B-ionic 2-part paired with a good Hanna Dkh Checker and a decent Calcium test kit.  I wouldn't touch the stuff you mentioned in your OP

do you have trouble with the stock ATO on your reefer.  My requires constant checking.  Have taken out and cleaned control valve, often the float will be down and no drip.  I open and then tighen valve to one drip per second.  Think new ATO and reservoir  going to be next purchase.  

[burtbollinger]

23 minutes ago, brianinak said:

  

do you have trouble with the stock ATO on your reefer.  My requires constant checking.  Have taken out and cleaned control valve, often the float will be down and no drip.  I open and then tighen valve to one drip per second.  Think new ATO and reservoir  going to be next purchase.  

4

Yes.  It was the first thing I ditched...to me, a container with a dripper isnt a real ATO, but a big headache.

I have a 10 year old Tunze ATO that I use instead, connected to a 5 gallon bucket on the side of the tank.

 

Just my personal 2 cents, but B-ionic 2 part is cheap and proven...and ideal for smaller tanks like ours....why not go with it instead of cooking baking soda in your oven, etc...i'm fine with the markup.....I'm just not down with the thrifty nickel solutions when it comes to controlling alk. and cal. in my $2500 and counting reef tank.  Your comfort level might be higher, but for the savings of 13 bucks...I'll spend the cash.

I agree with everything else he's saying tho.

 

https://www.marinedepot.com/E.S.V._B_Ionic_2_Part_Calcium_Buffer_32oz_(16oz_each_bottle)_Two_Part_Solution_Calcium_and_Alkalinity-E.S.V.-EV1111-FIADTP-vi.html

 

LPS dominiant 1 year old RSR 170....I'm hand dosing @ 5ml of each part of Bionic daily to maintain right at 8.8 - 9.  I test with the Hanna DKH daily, and some days, i don't dose due to the results.

[brianinak]

did some test.  

DKH 8.7

PH 7.8 Noonish 3 hours in light cycle.

MG 1380

CA 470