speakeraddict Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I bought a custom tank from glass cages that someone drilled to big closed loop holes in the back. The tank measures 35x11x10 internally. It's made our of 1/2" pencil edged star fire glass and has an external coast to coast overflow. The tank is beautiful. Problem is someone drilled two 2" holes in the back for what I am guessing was supposed to be a closed loop. I was thinking about covering the whole back inside with clear plexi that I sand to make it frosted. I don't want another painted back tank. My best guess is to silicone in the plexi and let the water pressure keep it in place. Thoughts? Pay no attention to the stand it is just about finished now and much stronger built. Quote Link to comment
Boggers Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Plexiglas does not bond well with Silicon and a better bet a piece of glass. another option (not as nice looking) would be to put bulkheads in the holes and cap them. 1 Quote Link to comment
jbb Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I used bulkheads / caps for this same situation. One of the bulkheads I added a strainer to and placed ball valve under tank . I use it to drain water during water changes. 1 Quote Link to comment
Boggers Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 32 minutes ago, jbb_00 said: I used bulkheads / caps for this same situation. One of the bulkheads I added a strainer to and placed ball valve under tank . I use it to drain water during water changes. I like that idea even better. Quote Link to comment
Christopher Marks Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 That looks like a nice tank @speakeraddict! Welcome back to the community! Do you have a close up photo of the two holes so we can have a better look at the situation? They must be set low and hidden behind those rocks? Solid advice from Boggers and jbb_00. Siliconing glass over the holes is really your only option for a secure bond. I wonder if you could silicone a frosted glass panel into the interior wall to fix both problems at once? Finding that glass might be a challenge though, it tends to be expensive. Most frosted glass we see has a vinyl film applied to it because it's cheaper. If you're feeling brave you could apply the frosted film to a new glass panel, but leave the outer 1/4" clear on the bottom and sides to allow for the silicone bond between the new panel and the tank. Quote Link to comment
holy carp Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Were the holes not for the return plumbing from the sump? I can't see holes in the photo apart from what looks like 3 in the bottom of the overflow. Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 I will take more pictures tonight. I thought I had them on my computer at home but no joy. The holes are kinda low and right behind the rocks. The three in the overflow are for a herby drain and a return line. At least that's how I am going to use them. I was actually thinking about a frosted piece of glass first but couldn't find any locally. Thanks guys! Oh thanks Christopher! I think it's really a nice tank. Honestly, for $50 it was a steal! Quote Link to comment
holy carp Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 The tank looks really nice. But I'm a little perplexed by the drilling. 3 holes in the overflow would suggest a bean animal, but the overflow is extremely shallow, so I'm not sure it would be feasible to accomplish a bean animal without more water level difference. Even a 2 drain Herbie would be a challenge: if significant flow goes through the drain with the valve, it would probably suck air in. Also, the low returns would require either a check valve or high siphon break. This is an interesting puzzle - can you ask the prior owner what their plumbing configuration was? Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 There was no prior owner and the manufacturer won't give out customer information for me to contact them and ask. The three holes are for a herby and a return with locline outputs. I'm pretty sure the herby will work, I will just have to put a short piece of pvc sticking up about 1/8-1/4" out of one of the bulkheads. It is an interesting situation to say the least, but, I think it's going to be very nice looking when done. Steven 1 Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 I just got inspiration on how to handle the problem! One of the side bar ads had a picture of a magnetic frag rack. It's just stupid expensive IMHO. So, I went on ebay and ordered some rare earth magnets. I will use pieces of dead rock that I ordered for this tank and some epoxy and make two of them big enough to cover the holes. I will cover the holes with pieces of glass and silicone. The racks will cover the holes and the patches and It will an interesting spot to put corals. Whatcha think? Steven 2 Quote Link to comment
Christopher Marks Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Sounds like a brilliant solution @speakeraddict! Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 Thanks Christopher! (I'm sorry CM) LOL! Gonna do the patches this weekend and pick out the rocks I want to use and cut them to size while I wait for the magnets. Steven 1 Quote Link to comment
hooligan_78 Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 3 hours ago, speakeraddict said: Thanks Christopher! You've been here since '03?! You will address him as CM, newb. Seriously though, I'm looking forward to seeing how this build comes along. 1 Quote Link to comment
holy carp Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Double-check the reef-safety of the magnets. I've seen posts that some are safe while other need to be potted or sealed somehow. Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 They will be covered in two part epoxy. I was concerned a bit about it at first but I did some searching and found someone using the same magnets coated in epoxy on a multi-kilobuck reef to hold probes. Thanks for looking out for me though. Everyone needs to be double checked IMO. Steven So I took some pics of the tank last night. Please forgive the dust. Someone took the tarp off of it in the shop. 1 Quote Link to comment
Christopher Marks Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 Interesting, it all makes more sense now! Are you planning to patch it from the inside or the outside? Silicone and glass bond so well I think either way would work out, but my gut says patch with glass on the inside. Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 15, 2017 Author Share Posted November 15, 2017 CM, Thanks for the input as always! To get the magnets to sit flush the patches will have to go on the outside. But, there will be so little pressure on the 1/4" patches and I am filling the holes with silicone like plugs, I think it will be fine. Believe me, this thing will sit and circulate in the shop for at least two weeks after the silicone cures before I bring it home for good. My fiancé would kill me if I bring home after the flooring is in and it leaked! Steven 1 Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 Quick update. The magnets aren't here yet. I have the glass patches installed. I picked up two pieces of dry reef rock from my LFS that are the perfect shape for what I want. I also ordered 2 meanwell LPC-35-700 drivers and RB,NW LEDs. I have violets already(420-430nm). I already have a driver for the violets to run separately. I have about 10 different ideas about how I want to do the enclosure(s) for the lights. Steven 1 Quote Link to comment
Christopher Marks Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 1 hour ago, speakeraddict said: I have about 10 different ideas about how I want to do the enclosure(s) for the lights. I like where this is going Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 22, 2017 Author Share Posted November 22, 2017 I will have to take a picture of the acrylic pendants and post them. Hopefully, I can get to that this evening. Steven 1 Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 23, 2017 Author Share Posted November 23, 2017 OK so here is what the acrylic pendants look like. They are 6.5*4*2 .75" acrylic from scraps someone gave me. I'd like to make one more if I could find scraps. Or make one long one out of 1/2" They are nicer looking in person. Need a final sanding to clean them up some. Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 So, I am going to use the acrylic pendants. I found some heatsinks that will fit and let me run a small, very quiet fan on each. I used nickels in the layout because they are almost exactly the size of 20mm star (21.12mm) Let me know what you think of the color combo. Ignore the fact that it says 8x3watt. This will give me a 21 watts per pendant. I think that's plenty of light for such a small aquarium. Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 OK so I am going to have to move this to a build thread. Here is the light fixture so far. Ignore the welds, I will clean them up next. The only issue is the square tube from lowe's had a twist in the crossbar that I didn't notice until I clamped the light pods to it. Quote Link to comment
speakeraddict Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 Oh, BTW, you will notice the glass patches are out and the glass cleaned up. I noticed as it dried, air bubbles were forming badly. Call the manufacturer, they say that it was old and that can happen. Never, ever seen that before. So, I will clean the actual patches up this week and reinstall them with new silicone. There was no way I was taking a chance with those leaking. It was a major pain to clean up. Quote Link to comment
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