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Clown79

Do you "dip" your macro's

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So most of us know we should do a dip on our corals before adding them to our tanks.

 

 it's rarely discussed what methods should be taken with macro algae.

 

So do you dip your macro and if so what method have you used with success?

 

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Maybe it depends where you get them from.  I like the biodiversity that comes on macro.  Tons of pods and other goodies.  Maybe quarantine is a better option.

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I usually don't but the few times I have, I dip them in filtered water. That should kill most pests as well as dino without causing any harm to the macro.

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I never have and so far it has worked out.  I hear panacur is a good choice though if you plan to dip them.

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I will tell you I didnt dip any macro in my last reef tank and sorely regretted it. I got a ball of chaeto from somewhere I cant remember where. I put the chaeto in my refugium and for a while and didn't pay much attention to it. One night when my refugium light came on I was checking it out and noticed Aptaisia all through out my chaeto mass and up to that point I hadn't add anything new to the tank except the chaeto and didnt have aptasia in my display tank so I immediately ripped it out but it was too late in the following weeks I had Aptaisia appearing in my display tank. Made me never to want to add chaeto in a tank again the problem is when the chaeto is out of the water the aptasia shriveled up so small you cant see them it wasnt until it was in the water and they were fully extended that you could see those little bastards. 😠😠😠

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Good topic. I have bought some chaeto but still finding the right and safe method to dip it. I plan to dip half of it in FW to see if the chaeto survives. If it dies, I have at least the other half.

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Just to add to the discussion.  I had some hair algae growing on some red macro.  I decided to experiment and quickly dip it in a saltwater/peroxide solution.  Well, as you can expect, I not only killed the hair algae, but most of the red macro as well.

101717a.jpg

I was able to save a small portion of the macro, but most of it died.

 

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I got a horrible infestation of flat worms from some chaeto I picked up at a LFS. It just never occurred to me to dip it. 

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I concur that a clump of chaeto from an unconfirmed source will often contain unwanted inverts and algae.  Which, I guess, brings us back to Clown79's original question, " what methods should be taken with macro algae".

 

Freshwater dip?  Coral dip?  Certainly not a peroxide dip.  Quarantine?

 

I notice that Coral Rx claims to treat Filamentous Hair Algae (including bryopsis), so I imagine that it's not safe for most macroalgae.  I assume that Flatworm eXit would be OK.

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So after doing some more research, I wonder if Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer for soil & turf would be a good dip for macros.  I assume it would based on how it works, but I haven't seen it used in this way.

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I thought it was an important subject as I've read many getting pests like flatworm, aiptasia, etc via macro.

 

Apparently most do FW dips as it's the safest.

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All I know is in my new setup I was not going to run any macro in it and will rely on my reactor or whatever I need to do to export phosphates and nitrates. Its like rolling the dice if you do go the macro route being it is so hard to tell if you have gotten all the pests out or not. 

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1 hour ago, Dougefresh35 said:

All I know is in my new setup I was not going to run any macro in it and will rely on my reactor or whatever I need to do to export phosphates and nitrates. Its like rolling the dice if you do go the macro route being it is so hard to tell if you have gotten all the pests out or not. 

 

I believe some sources sell cultured pest free cheato that is not exposed to reefs/fish/coral, ect.

 

Susatinable Aquatics Cheato: 

 

SA’s Chaetomorpha is reportedly pest– and pathogen-free, which cannot always be said for the random clump of Chaetomorpha you might get from other sources, where problem organisms like Aiptasia anemones can sneak in unnoticed. Carberry elaborated on this claim, stating, “We’ve cultured it in an area (separate room) away from the fish for several weeks to make sure we can offer it as pathogen-free product, as it comes from a vector-free area (same goes for the Amphipods; they have their own area as well)

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The chaeto I picked up at my LFS had

boloceroides mcmurrichi

digitate hydroids

flatworms

asterina

and cotton candy algae in it.

 

Some people like free stuff...  I didn't.  Ever since, I have avoided macroalgae.  Interested to hear what works.  I imagine Bayer Complete wouldn't hurt it.

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Along with Sustainable Aquatics Chaeto, there's other good places like AlgaeBarn and ReefCleaners. Growing chaeto in pest free systems is so important.

 

There's a lot of people near me that give away chaeto, and not to knock on them, I just don't want the risk. I got my new tank setup with a ball of it from reefcleaners. I meticulously looked through it and only found a couple amphipods. No trace of anything else. Crossing my fingers!

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Why not someone with a big refugium with tons of harvested chaeto do a controlled experiments comparing FW, Revive, Coral RX, etc.............If I were ecotech marine, I would give him a set of XR30 pro as gift.

 

 

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Where I am you rarely find any macro outside of chaeto and it's rarely in dedicated tanks. It's usually mixed with fish.

 

I have one option to get dragons breath, it's in  tank with fish so a dip is a must...bayer isn't available in Cda anymore.

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1 hour ago, Clown79 said:

it's in  tank with fish so a dip is a must

How so?  Ich?

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I just over worry. Plus I've read a lot about flatworms coming in on macro

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The clear flatworms are OK.  But if you are concerned, buy some Flatworm eXit and use that as a dip.

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I'm concerned about anything. I don't trust most lfs here except one and they never have macro, especially not dragons breath.

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First, Bayer insecticide works.  I have used it extensively with a dozen different macro.  Here are some qualifying comments.  Anytime you introduce a drop of water into your system, the possibility of pest coming in exist.  Even residual water on your hands from another source can introduce ich and other pest.  A classic example was the post about Aptasia infestation moving from refugium to display tank.  Spores in the water were transported into display.

 

For the same reason that people dip coral, they should dip macro.

 

I have well over 1000G of tanks with too many different systems.  When moving live rocks with no desirable macro, hydrogen peroxide has no equal.  However, it will not harm Aptasia.  I use flatworm exit to treat macro.  Understand this carefully, flatworms can develope an immunity to Flatworm Exit.  In my oldest tank at 25 year setup, I have flatworms that are immune to standard doses of Exit.  When anything comes from that tank, it gets treated with 10 fold dose of Exit.  It pains me to see so many dead micro stars and pods, but it works on flatworms and does not harm coral.  

 

Some comments on quarantine.  In my 45 years of reefkeeping, I have maintained a 1500G systems with nothing added for two years but water from a fresh water aquifer.  Due to an electrical failure, the system was stressed with a resultant outbreak of ich.  I was told by “hobby experts” that I had ich the whole time and just did not see it.  Well, maybe.  Ich has a life cycle that involves three stages.  Two of these stages can not be treated.   The only time ich is visible to the human eye is when it is buried in the slime coat of the fish.  Just because the free swimming stage of ich is in the tank water does not mean that the fish will be infected.  Why is that possible?  Fish in the ocean do not get ich.  Why is that?  Fish immune system is why ich is not apparent in the ocean.  I have received Blue Tangs from quarantined facilities that were very very reputable.  I could see ich spots on the fish thru the bag.  These fish went into mature tanks and were feed with live food.   In tank live food was pods and  algae.   IMO, the best live food to boost fish immune systems is gut cavity bacteria.  Go to your seafood market and buy some clams, oysters or mussels.  I have large systems and feed two mussels a day.  Or do like PaulB, go claming and enjoy some fresh clams.   Give the fish the left overs. One mussels cost $.10 at the HEB in Austin, Tx.

  

 

When the juice from mussels disperse into tank, I see many fans and feathers  working the water.   Good for all filter feeders, including coral

 

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On 10/18/2017 at 1:14 AM, Clown79 said:

I'm concerned about anything. I don't trust most lfs here except one and they never have macro, especially not dragons breath.

 

With respect to Dragons Breath, Gulf live rock has it on many of their uncured live rocks.   Undesirable Aptasia can also be on these rocks.  I don’t fret Aptasia as it can be controlled and eliminated with diligence to maintenance.  I do fret Red Planaria.  When smashed on glass it makes a red stain on glass and skin.  The smell of iodine is very strong from Red Planaria.  Not many fish will eat.  Some wrasses do a good job.  

 

This is some uncured live rock rock one week removed from offshore Tampa in 30’ of water.    This first rock is a classic example of what can come in on uncured live rock.  There are two cultivars of “Dragons Breath”  in the Gulf of Mexico.  I don’t know which this is but it is very delicate and would not stand up to serious herbivores like tangs and urchins.  The green macro is also very delicate.  I will go to website for GulfmCoast EcoSystems to identify.  Sorry that I am not a better photographer.

 

This second picture shows some more uncured Gulf live rock that is one week,removed from ocean.  At this point, I have pruned off Halymenia.  After inspection of 30lbs of nano rock, I have found two Aptasia.  

 

image.thumb.jpg.cd45d998d3ffe46044d0fe7933a1c03d.jpg

 

 

 

 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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This photo is a bush of Dragons Tongue ( Halymenia dilatata) that I am growing for cultivation.  My plan is to grow a monoculture in a 55G  tank using a tumble culture.  This bush is 8” wide and 6” tall.  It is supported with a j bracket I made from 1/4” acrylic sheets.  On the top left is Grape Caulerpa which I eat.  Below the green grapes are red grapes (Botryocladia botryoides) grown in subdued lighting.  Note the dark maroon color.  Russ Kronwetter at live-plants collects Bortacladia in 60’ - 120’ of water.  Not very bright at that depth.  

 

The second oicture is of some more delux uncured live rock one week from the Gulf of Mexico.image.thumb.jpg.a3bbcf9bb6dff1993ff2ce972e8f0a2d.jpg

image.jpg

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