JBJ 28 intermediate LED startup - what would you do with what I have?

[metrokat]

40 minutes ago, mcfishing620 said:

 

Interesting, but seem like they require a process of their own to use them with additional chemicals, etc.  Is there anything that would be as simple as rinse/scrub and put back in?  This is why I'm on here, some of this stuff is new to me and people like you guys help a lot.

 

33 minutes ago, Boggers said:

No additional chemicals, they are built into the balls them-self.  The directions are to just toss some after 6mo and replace with fresh.

You can ask @metrokat as she has used them.

 

Add carbon in a bag in the canister and passively filter is not an issue

Xport doesn't need anything - rinse and put in. You can seed it with a bacteria of your choice for 24 hours along with tank water before putting in the tank. This is not necessary but it jump starts the bacterial colonization. 

[Guest mcfishing620]

2 minutes ago, metrokat said:

 

Xport doesn't need anything - rinse and put in. You can seed it with a bacteria of your choice for 24 hours along with tank water before putting in the tank. This is not necessary but it jump starts the bacterial colonization. 

So use this in the canister instead of ceramic? Seems like a good option. 

[Thrassian Atoll]

13 minutes ago, mcfishing620 said:

 

So what would you guys recommend with what I have? Do you think running the floss, chemi pure, and purigen in the basket with the ceramic rings in the canister up to a UV light would be ok? The flow rate would still be high enough to not kill bacteria in the UV light. It would be aimed only at killing algae and I do not plan on having a lot of coral.

I don't know anything about the rings.  I wouldn't use any thing outside of the tank at first.  I would test periodically with just having the purigen and chemipure and go from there.  If your water quality is fine with just that, no need for other moving parts.

[Boggers]

2 hours ago, TILTON said:

 

[Boggers]

As my first post stated, I would not use canister or UV... however, I presented you with ideas on how to use it if you wanted. If it we're me, I would use floss, crabon/or chemipure, and then purguin. Leave canister/UV off unless you notice an issue with water levels.

[R_Pierce]

Im very new here, but not new to salt water tanks in general, although it has been nearly a decade since my last one.  To the OP, you need to take the advice you have been given.  Its good advice!!  (Although Im not a huge fan of vaccuming sand, and never did in the past either)

 

What seems to be happening here is you are fishing for someone to give you advice that fits with your thought plan.  Which, wont happen because for the reasons listed above, it doesnt fit what seems to work.  Its really that simple man.

[burtbollinger]

55 minutes ago, R_Pierce said:

Im very new here, but not new to salt water tanks in general, although it has been nearly a decade since my last one.  To the OP, you need to take the advice you have been given.  Its good advice!!  (Although Im not a huge fan of vaccuming sand, and never did in the past either)

 

What seems to be happening here is you are fishing for someone to give you advice that fits with your thought plan.  Which, wont happen because for the reasons listed above, it doesnt fit what seems to work.  Its really that simple man.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWdd6_ZxX8c&sns=em

[metrokat]

4 hours ago, mcfishing620 said:

So use this in the canister instead of ceramic? Seems like a good option. 

Make sure it doesn't tumble.

[schgr.cube]

What sources have you researched on this, and what led you to discredit them? Just curious as to what we might be looking to provide that is different from your own findings. I would also consider successful users on Nano-Reef to be a source, so try not to discredit their information regardless of how it may be given. There are MANY successful methods to reefkeeping. 

 

Have you thought about starting off without the UV and adding it in if you really feel it becomes necessary? I tend to go with the less is more approach myself; just live rock, filter floss, water changes, and the occasional carbon when necessary.

[R_Pierce]

51 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWdd6_ZxX8c&sns=em

[Lula_Mae]

7 hours ago, mcfishing620 said:

You can't just say don't answer rhetorical questions when they actually ARE borderline insulting.  In addition, the way you talk in general, can be taken the wrong way.  One could say, you sound like a know it all.  But, as you stated also, that's just my opinion, so I assume it shouldn't insult you either, right?

 

Moving on...now to reply to the worthwhile content of your reply, since you did at least have what I felt was some valuable content - in my opinion.

 

You may see maintaining your tank as something you enjoy doing.  I do not.  I enjoy looking at the tank and feeding the fish.  Cleaning constantly, spending a ton of money on salt, and all this other stuff can be a little ridiculous.  Of course cleaning is required, and of course there is a limit to what you can and can't get away with.  My LFS is a joke that has like 2 small tanks for saltwater, horrible quality live rock for $5 a pound, doesn't sell water, and the only thing they sell regarding saltwater tanks is salt itself.  The next closest store is an hour and a half away, so this is not a convenient hobby where I am at.  I also work 50 to 60 hours a week on top of a 45 minute drive each way, and I have a life outside of work.  Dedicating my time off to maintain my aquarium to absolute perfection is not something I intend to do.  What I DO intend to do, is talk to people CONSTRUCTIVELY about how I can find a balance of minimal cleaning/maintenance but still maintain a healthy tank, to sum it up.  This IS possible, and not unrealistic whatsoever.

 

I'm not trying to do things a different way for no reason, or to just be a trend setter.  I am trying to utilize old parts because I spent money on them, they WORKED, and I don't see why they won't work again in addition to what's there already.  I've read multiple reviews recently on my Magnum 350, and there are people that have had them running for years with no issues on saltwater tanks.  I ran mine for a year and a half with zero issues.  I don't see any good reason this could not be utilized as extra filtration, especially with the intent I have of a heavy stocked tank.  More fish need more food, take more poops, etc, and therefore need more filtration.  Regarding my UV light, why NOT use it?  What would it REALLY hurt?  My intent is to kill algae with it more than anything else.  If there is no use for them, then why were they created?  Why do people use them?  I personally had EXCELLENT results from using mine in the past, so why wouldn't I want to use it again?  What I'm trying to do, again, is find the balance utilizing what I already have with my intent.  

 

I am getting live sand.

 

I am going off the inch per gallon rule of thumb.

 

I like rock that has hiding places and can be swam through.  I don't like putting as much in there as I can fit.

 

My hydrometers have worked just fine in the past, but I am looking to get a refractometer already.  

 

What is the dKH checker?  

 

I mentioned my intent above, and my tank is for personal enjoyment.  It's in my bedroom due to my very loud home stereo in the living room.

 

What is TOTM?  The amount of acronyms in this hobby is unreal.

 

I don't ignore anything anyone takes their time and responds with.  What I want is not the norm, and I'm looking to talk to people who can constructively give me ideas on how I can achieve my goal, not people who tell me to be like everyone else.  I used to get told that at work all the time because I bucked the system and worked hard on my ideas, but I am now the one who has had ideas implemented that have changed my industry nation wide, and those naysayers are still the same sheep they were before.  If you don't take risks, or try anything new, you won't achieve the so-called "unachieveable".

 

Creating a highly efficient, low maintenance, cost efficient tank is my goal, and I WILL achieve that.

A few comments: the inch per gallon fish rule is a poor one for freshwater and is completely useless for saltwater.  It's more about the biomass/bioload of the fish you're wanting to put in your tank.  If you want to do six tiny gobies, that's a lot lower bioload than, say, two clowns, firefish, royal gramma, and a couple puffers (don't do this).  If you want to minimize maintenance, minimize your bioload.  Less poop equals less water changes.

 

TOTM=Tank of the Month. Tanks that are featured because they are exceptional for various reasons.  Read their threads for some good ideas on keeping a tank and see the changes in care techniques over the years.

 

If I may, I'd say what you're trying to do (using the UV and canister filter) is kind of like what people at your work are doing--trying to stick with what's always worked instead of trying new methods that revolutionized the hobby.  Used to be that sub-40 gallon tanks were "impossible" but people bucking trends and trying new things is what led to what is now the standard--i.e. the things @burtbollinger and @Clown79 recommended.  There is a reason these are the current recommendations and not UV and canisters--because they have been found to be better for our nano tanks.  Going from a 90 gallon fish-only tank to a 28 gallon nano tank requires an entire mindset shift that you don't seem to want or be willing to make, but you're making things harder on yourself this way.  There are common recommendations that many of us make and it's because they work.  One more thing you can try to help stretch time between water changes is macroalgae, whether through a chaeto reactor or through decorative macroalgaes in your display.  Note that I said "stretch," not "remove."  You will always need to do some water changes on a nano tank.  Just comes with the territory.

 

6 hours ago, mcfishing620 said:

Excellent reply, thank you.

 

So based off your experience, if I just maintain the canister and lines well, would I be ok?  I would prefer a re-usable media like the ceramic rings, bio balls, ect to keep cost down.  I like the live rock idea also, have you seen anyone do that?

 

The bacteria UV lights kill...is that something that would only affect a reef tank with corals?  Or would fish suffer from this?  From what I've read, keeping the flow around 300gph, which is around what it would be from my canister, only kills algae.  This is directly from the book for my UV light.  I think they said around 90 gph or something, don't quote me, kills bacteria and sterilizes.

 

I totally understand the theory of less equipment is less to fail, very good point.

 

Keep on replying, yours are worth it and appreciated.

The beneficial bacteria being mentioned are the ones that convert ammonia->nitrite->nitrate, which will negatively affect your livestock.

 

5 hours ago, mcfishing620 said:

 

So if bio balls are out, which seems to be a general consensus, would ceramic rings be a good option?  

 

Cleaning monthly is no big deal.  I have no problem dedicating a couple hours to thoroughly cleaning my tank and accessories once a month.  That's pretty much my goal, is eliminate as much as I can of the tedious weekly/bi-weekly stuff, and do a larger clean once a month.  

 

Again, I appreciate the fact you guys are replying with constructive information.

 

Btw TILTON, you have a VERY nice setup.  Just saw your pictures.

Ceramic rings will probably be a bit of a nitrate/detritus trap and I'd plan to rinse them at least weekly.  They're generally not recommended.

[Clown79]

11 hours ago, burtbollinger said:

Since you asked for advice and you say you are open to ideas....below is just my opinion...no tone or snark intended:

 

"I don't want to do much work and I don't want to do what experienced  and successful people do."

 

Accurate? /\ (rhetorical question...no need to answer)

 

When anyone says "Im trying to be lazy"...I don't see that as a good start.  Why does one try to be lazy?   I understand that people over time with tanks, as they get to know them, can get lazier and have it work very well...but to say one wants 'to be lazy 'right off the bat with something that is new to...why?  (rhetorical question...no need to answer...but I do find it an off-putting mindset...I digress.)

One doesn't want to copy everybody else.....in this hobby, not copying everyone else is done at one's own risk.  not exactly the best hobby to be a trend setter...just IMO.  If you don't see a lot of people doing something, its probably for a very good reason.

 

also, all of us must be wary of searching out the answers we WANT to hear.

 

I'd put the canister filter in storage...and forget about the UV for now.  There is ZERO reason to be using it.    You say you want to use the UV....why?  because you have it?  (rhetorical question...no need to answer).  You don't need it....no need or desire to explain further other than to say I'd not add needless complexity at any point in this setup.  Put it in storage in case you actually need it.

I'd never, ever use crushed coral.   

 

A lot of fish was mentioned.  I'd put no more than 5 in the tank.  Some might push this to 6 or more....I wouldn't.  This is an opinion that many would ignore...as such, I'd advice further research.  This is one area where many push it...

 

I'd use about 20-25 lbs of rock total in the tank.  Just because you have 40lbs does not mean you jam 40 lbs in there.

 

Your hydrometers are junk...splurge and get a refractometer for around 30-40 bucks.

 

I'd invest in a Hanna dKH checker.  (game changer) The Reefkeeper Lite you ordered was a great purchase.

 

As mentioned above....I'd not be lazy as possible with water changes...I'd be at least doing 20% every 2-3 weeks.  I like weekly...but I guess you could push it up to 3 weeks.  Bottom line....I dont see very many ugly tanks where they do weekly water changes...but I see a ton of gutter tanks...and there is at least an unscientific correlation between the way they look and their owner's maintenance schedule.   Maybe your end game is different, maybe this is some quirky mad-science basement decoration...nothing wrong with that, btw....whereas, my approach is my nano tank is the 'pristine living jewel and center point of my living room.'   

 

Aim for excellence.  Aim for TOTM.

 

I'd use purigen....MAYBE run some GFO passively.  Perhaps some BRS Rox carbon in a bag replaced every 2 weeks.  I might also stash some MarinePure somewhere.

 

You mention you know there are very knowledgeable people on here....I've lurked here for almost 15 years...what Clown79 says might as well be the word of God when it comes to advising.  I'd not ignore anything she's saying.  

 

 

@burtbollinger

 

Thank You for the compliment.

 

I don't know everything and never proclaim to be the best. We all learn from eachothers fails and wins?

I do try to offer up knowledge I have gained from others experiences as well as my own. 

 

My tank is my jewel of the living room too-its a living piece of art.

[Clown79]

As we all mentioned 90 g to a nano is completely different. Your experiences with a 90g FO will be completely different from your reef nano.

 

Having corals from FO is a game changer.

 

It's very difficult to be lazy with a nano, especially with corals. Daily topping up, dosing consumed elements, vacuuming sand, changing out media, testing, and waterchanges are necessary.

 

Would I like a tank that looked pretty on its own, most likely but would I get the same feeling of accomplishment-no. 

 

Waterchanges are necessary in small tanks not only to export nutrient buildup but as well as replenishing elements. 

 

Canister filters- are more work. They need cleaning every 2 weeks at least or they become a nutrient trap.

 

Bio balls- same thing. More cleaning or it they become nutrient traps

 

Uv- it can kill off beneficial bacteria. These are often used in FW tanks not so much in SW anymore.  There are other methods for controlling algae like waterchanges, skimmers, filter media, and lower bioload.

 

A high bioload in a nano tank requires a lot of work and alot of nutrient export.

 

If you plan on a high bioload it would be better to plan on doing a lot more maintenance than you planned, adding a refugium with macro algaes, and adding a very good skimmer.

 

Also consider your water source. That's not been mentioned.

 

I understand your lifestyle plays into you aquarium planning but

A lot of ppl here have very busy schedules, have families, other interests, etc. Unfortunately nano reef tank and lazy maintenance don't go hand in hand very well.

 

 

Everyone here has offered a ton of very good advice. Many of us are believers of keeping things simple.

 

[CronicReefer]

6 hours ago, mcfishing620 said:

So use this in the canister instead of ceramic? Seems like a good option. 

You can not use the xport media in a canister from my experience. The flow rate is too high through the media and it will basically turn into dust over time. The high flow rate also prevents dentrification in the Xport NO3. Find a low flow area in your back chambers if you plan on using xport media.

[StevieT]

Dude needs wet water IMO

[Guest mcfishing620]

Thank you to everyone who has helped. I've taken everything said into consideration, and do not intend to run a canister or UV for now, and am going to make a basket for Xport in each side chamber, and add a protein skimmer. 

 

Unfortunately, there's a lot of really annoying people on here. I've done forums for years, and never had an issue until I came here. 

 

Admin please delete my profile. I don't need to deal with a bunch of adults who act like children, and don't understand the way forums are supposed to work. 

 

@Christopher Marks

[Christopher Marks]