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EvilFish

Candy Cane feeling bad

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EvilFish

Hi,

 

My Candy Cane feeling bad. Losing color. How I can fix this?20171001_203320.thumb.jpg.68a966709b6bbbee2164be5eba50f1d9.jpg

 

What to do?

 

Water 1.025

Nitrates: 0

Phospates: Hard to read, but I use PhosGuard.

 

Thanks

 

20171001_203410.jpg

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Nickbruh510

Water change water change water change

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EvilFish
33 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

Water change water change water change

10% weekly?

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Nickbruh510
3 minutes ago, EvilFish said:

10% weekly?

How many gallons. Do one big one asap. See if thst helps

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ParticipationTrophyWife

Are you feeding it?  

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EvilFish
10 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

How many gallons. Do one big one asap. See if thst helps

13.5

 

2 minutes ago, tashayar said:

Are you feeding it?  

Yes (Brine Shrimp and Daphnia). But I don't known if it eat.

 

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ParticipationTrophyWife

When it extends tentacles like in this photo, drop a little food in.  You will see the mouth close around it.  It may be too late but keep trying.

IMG_7669.JPG

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Lula_Mae

If you have any Lugol's iodine, take a cup of tank water, add a couple drops of Lugol's and stir it up, then dip the candy cane for 3-5 minutes before putting it back in the tank.  It may not help, but Lugol's has been known to help ailing corals.

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burtbollinger

what's your alkalinity?  

 

actual parameters would help.  

 

what kind of lighting it under?  full tank shot possible?

 

you use phosguard....any chance you ODing it?

 

as an aside, why no one above has asked for a single parameter before recommending water changes, feeding and lugols dips is beyond me. 

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Clown79
6 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

what's your alkalinity?  

 

actual parameters would help.  

 

what kind of lighting it under?  full tank shot possible?

 

you use phosguard....any chance you ODing it?

 

as an aside, why no one above has asked for a single parameter before recommending water changes, feeding and lugols dips is beyond me. 

I agree.

 

Waterchanges only help if you know the cause of the problem.

 

Waterchange is not a magic fix. 

It works for some issues not all.

 

We need more info on the tank.

 

Size of tank,

water source ro/di, distilled etc.

what corals are in the tank

What filter media Do you use

 

Alk, ca and have you tested to see any fluctuations?

 

Is there algae in the tank because 0 nitrates is not beneficial 

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EvilFish
52 minutes ago, tashayar said:

When it extends tentacles like in this photo

I never seen any tentacles :(

 

26 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

Size of tank,

water source ro/di, distilled etc.

what corals are in the tank

What filter media Do you use

13.5G

Distilled (from evaporation)

Xenia, Zoas, Mushrooms

Carbon, filter floss, Biopellets XL, Purigen

Skimmer

 

39 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

what's your alkalinity?  

I don't know :(

 

39 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

what kind of lighting it under?  full tank shot possible?

Stock light from Fluval Evo 13.5.

20171001_224532.thumb.jpg.872cf34a80b2ba0c882a3802332b9f34.jpg

 

39 minutes ago, burtbollinger said:

you use phosguard....any chance you ODing it?

15-17g for 13.5G.

 

 

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burtbollinger

I'd get a handle on what your alk is first off...you want to keep it steady.  Get a test kit....you might be really low or high.  its a parameter you need to have down pat.

 

Post other parameters when you get a chance.  Flow and light are also worth knowing about.

 

Biopellets raises an eyebrow...I dont think I'd be messing with that in a 13g.

 

as of now, dont panic or do anything drastic...get a decent Alk. test kit tomorrow.

 

different subject, IMO you are asking for trouble with that calupera in the display.

 

 

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Tamberav

Why so much filtration?

 

Phosguard, Biopellets, purigen, and carbon...

 

I aim for Nitrates around 2 and Phosphate around 0.002 

 

It is possible to starve corals, and I personally do not like seeing 0's in my tank.

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Clown79

When starting to house corals it's important to start testing alk and ca.

 

I doubt your corals are consuming much of either but you also need to know if your levels are in a normal range. If either are low that could be the issue.

 

Nitrates at 0 is an issue.

 

Not sure why you are running so much media in a new tank.

 

Phosguard should be used when and if needed and in small quantities.

 

Carbon should be changed every 3 weeks and it's best to run less than more in a bag, it can remove important elements the corals need.

 

The use of biopellets may be removing any available nutrients plus purigen.

 

I'd certainly cut down on the media 

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Lula_Mae
9 hours ago, burtbollinger said:

what's your alkalinity?  

 

actual parameters would help.  

 

what kind of lighting it under?  full tank shot possible?

 

you use phosguard....any chance you ODing it?

 

as an aside, why no one above has asked for a single parameter before recommending water changes, feeding and lugols dips is beyond me. 

I haven't tested in years so I rarely ask for parameters.  What I saw was an ailing coral I thought could benefit from a Lugol's dip.  I have had Lugol's dips bring corals back from the brink before.  That's why I frequently recommend them.  It's not as though those of us who posted early on are complete noobs here. :rolleyes:

 

Edit: also, some people like macros like caulerpa in the display...

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ParticipationTrophyWife

My experience has been that ailing candy canes sometimes regenerate their flesh after neglect if fed well.  Thus my input.  

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burtbollinger
2 hours ago, Lula_Mae said:

 That's why I frequently recommend them. 

 

well aware.

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burtbollinger
3 hours ago, Lula_Mae said:

 

Edit: also, some people like macros like caulerpa in the display...

1

some people don't know what they're getting into with macros like caulpera in the display...forgive me if I'm not making assumptions about the OPs awareness of what's going on in his/her tank.  I've personally seen a handful of tanks shut down due to it.

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SaltyBuddha

Flow and light have a big difference on how your candy cane will do. Of course, this is assuming your water parameters are where it should be.

 

I had a hell of a time getting my candy cane happy. It was my very first coral and I was worried about acclimating it to my LEDS. So I turned them down. The skin receded, it lost color and was shriveled down to the skeleton.

 

Long story short: it wanted more light!

 

I turned by blues up my a good margin and then added some more white. It puffed up and has been that way ever since. Now the tentacles are out every night and the skin is starting to grow back onto the portions lost during the hard times. 

 

Honestly, everyone says it is a beginner coral, but in my research it seems a lot of people lost these corals when they first get them. Once they are happy, they are easy, but this coral was the hardest of mine to make happy (besides my toadstool but he is just moody all the time). 

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sapling

@burtbollinger  Not to derail the thread, but could you explain the reason why macro algae should not be used in a DT? is your reasoning you think there is too much export from the water because macro + the bio balls, carbon, filter floss, purigen, and skimmer? or is there another specific reason? I dont know the answer,

also for the OP, I agree there should be some testing to ensure water params are correct, alk and ca...  are you using a salt only mix possibly? I ask because besides the soft corals on the top right, I do not see much coralline, which makes me think something might not correct.. unless there is something eating the coralline or you just never introduced it into the system, just my 2 cents.

as for the coral in particular, I cant tell too well, my first thought was it might need a dip from how the top of the polyps looked, but that probably just the picture being overexposed. maybe a second picture could confirm if that is some kind of coral bleaching?

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burtbollinger
57 minutes ago, sapling said:

@burtbollinger  Not to derail the thread, but could you explain the reason why macro algae should not be used in a DT? is your reasoning you think there is too much export from the water because macro + the bio balls, carbon, filter floss, purigen, and skimmer? or is there another specific reason? I dont know the answer,

4

not all algae.

grape calupera...racemosa....it takes over tanks. it ruins tanks.  its the most nasty, invasive algae I've ever experienced...it spreads, digs in, is not easily removed manually, and nothing practical for nanos eats it.  Once it gets hold, you cannot get rid if it.  if you leave a single piece or strand it will grow back.

 

a very simple google search on the subject will confirm what I know to be fact....not something I like to see in beginner's tanks when they may not know any better...because at some point, it will mean taking the tank down.

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Lula_Mae
1 hour ago, sapling said:

@burtbollinger  Not to derail the thread, but could you explain the reason why macro algae should not be used in a DT? is your reasoning you think there is too much export from the water because macro + the bio balls, carbon, filter floss, purigen, and skimmer? or is there another specific reason? I dont know the answer,

also for the OP, I agree there should be some testing to ensure water params are correct, alk and ca...  are you using a salt only mix possibly? I ask because besides the soft corals on the top right, I do not see much coralline, which makes me think something might not correct.. unless there is something eating the coralline or you just never introduced it into the system, just my 2 cents.

as for the coral in particular, I cant tell too well, my first thought was it might need a dip from how the top of the polyps looked, but that probably just the picture being overexposed. maybe a second picture could confirm if that is some kind of coral bleaching?

Caulerpa species tend to be particularly prolific and must be pruned frequently to keep under control, especially C. racemosa, aka grape algae. Doesn't mean it's bad, just that it must be watched closely and thinned out often.

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sapling

oh so it's just a prolific algae thats the issue? I was thinking maybe it was more about the water being stripped, made me a little worried since I have chaeto, biomax, and a skimmer for filtration. chaeto is fine right?

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burtbollinger
22 minutes ago, sapling said:

oh so it's just a prolific algae thats the issue? I was thinking maybe it was more about the water being stripped, made me a little worried since I have chaeto, biomax, and a skimmer for filtration. chaeto is fine right?

yes.

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EvilFish

Thanks friends,

 

I introdused Caulerpa by mistake... Impossible to get rid of. So I prune it once a months, When ill get a bigger tank, Tangs will eat it.

 

So, too much of filtration isn't good for nano? Do I need to remove purigen and biopellets? I use 70g of carbon bc I have 3 70g bags. Normally I use less.

 

There is a coraline everywhere, barely visible with the light on.

 

The tank has a good flow (arround 500GPH). For light, do I need to try to put it on top?

 

Thanks

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