Red sea reefer 170 mods custom plumbing

[Nickbruh510]

58 minutes ago, seabass said:

Oh wait.  The fittings are replacing the nuts?  If so, those threads probably aren't tapered, so they won't seal.  Teflon tape is for metal fittings.  It won't seal the threads.

 

So if there was a nut on the outside, did the old plumbing attach to the inside?

Yeah old plumbing is still attached to the inside. and even when i removed the nut i could not take out the triple bulkhead thingy assembly because it is siliconed in. Can you please explain the tapered fittings.

[seabass]

 

"On threaded male PVC fittings each successive thread is slightly larger in diameter than the one before it. Female threads get successively smaller. This is called taper and the amount of taper is specified (1¾ degrees) in the American National Standard B2.1. All pipe manufacturers voluntarily follow these standards to assure their customers they are receiving quality materials." - http://lascofittings.com/threads

 

As you tighten a threaded PVC fitting, a seal is achieved.  However, the nut of a bulkhead is parallel.  Like a nut on a bolt, it's designed to secure but not seal.  A rubber gasket or O-ring usually provides the water tight seal of the bulkhead to the tank wall.

 

Here are some of the Do's and Don'ts of PVC joint assembly:

• Don't over-tighten joints by giving them "one more turn to be sure."Do finger tighten plus one or two turns - No More.
• Don't wrap Teflon tape or Teflon paste or pipe dope to add bulk to or to lubricate the joint. Do use a sealant for threaded joints.
• Don't use "stronger" Schedule 80 threaded fittings on the assumption that they may solve the problem of splitting through over-tightening.
• Do use only Schedule 40 threaded fittings with Schedule 40 pipe and fittings.
• Don't over-tighten.
• Do finger tighten plus one or two turns.

 

So if I understand this correctly, you just replaced the nuts with with PVC/ABS fittings.  My guess is that a water tight seal isn't created from this connection.  The seal between the tank and bulkhead is created by the silicone on the bulkhead assembly, and/or a gasket or O-ring against the tank wall.  Then... the threads on the inside of the bulkhead are tapered (which creates a seal on the internal threads, for the pipes).

 

So there are two possible things to leak: the bulkhead against the tank wall (secured by the parallel, external, male threads), and the three tapered female threads inside the bulkhead assembly.

 

Using teflon tape lubricates the joint, and allows you to over tighten the threads (which can cause them to fail).  Instead of teflon tape, you should use a sealant like Oatey Great Blue Pipe Joint Compound to help seal the connection on the inside threads.  This is especially important on larger fittings.  You put the sealant on the male threads which attach to the female threads inside of the bulkhead.

 

Hopefully the threads are not damaged on the bulkhead and you can stop the leak using the existing bulkhead.  However, I might try to replace the plumbing going into the bulkhead (to give you new male threads).  Make sense?

 

[seabass]

Then there are Uniseal bulkheads (which possibly might work, but I wouldn't use them for this application, as they might get cut on the glass, or even crack your tank):

 

[Nickbruh510]

4 hours ago, seabass said:

Then there are Uniseal bulkheads (which possibly might work, but I wouldn't use them for this application, as they might get cut on the glass, or even crack your tank):

 

Wow i understand plumbing so much more thank you  much!!!. I was just thinking of using the oaleys and then the transition gkue from abs to pvc. Cant tell you hiw much I appreciatte it . Also yeah I dont think there is enough spacinf for standar bulkheads

[seabass]

I'm not sure if you were considering using glue/cement on a threaded joint, but don't.  The glue will prevent you from tightening it.  Only glue slip connections.

[Nickbruh510]

37 minutes ago, seabass said:

I'm not sure if you were considering using glue/cement on a threaded joint, but don't.  The glue will prevent you from tightening it.  Only glue slip connections.

Lol so im screwed and this wont work?... arghhhh. Even if it threads on nicely?what If i jut use good silicone where the pieces meets glass thats what red sea did. The nuts were siliconed in after it was threaded.

[Boggers]

Not sure if this will help you, but it is good info:

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/bill-wann-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-aquariumplumbing-and-pumps-but-were-afraid-to-ask-macna-speakers-2017/

[seabass]

15 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

Lol so im screwed and this wont work?... arghhhh. Even if it threads on nicely?what If i jut use good silicone where the pieces meets glass thats what red sea did. The nuts were siliconed in after it was threaded.

Not necessarily.  Let's say that the leak is not coming between the bulkhead and the tank, and that the leak is coming from the threaded connection (from the female bulkhead and the male plumbing).  I'd try replacing the male plumbing and use thread sealant.

[Nickbruh510]

49 minutes ago, seabass said:

Not necessarily.  Let's say that the leak is not coming between the bulkhead and the tank, and that the leak is coming from the threaded connection (from the female bulkhead and the male plumbing).  I'd try replacing the male plumbing and use thread sealant.

That involves ripping out overflow amd removing the triple siliconed top bulkhead thingy. At that point i will just drill the back. I am trying to slavage ehat i can

[seabass]

6 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

That involves ripping out overflow amd removing the triple siliconed top bulkhead thingy. At that point i will just drill the back. I am trying to slavage ehat i can

No, I'm talking about leaving the bulkhead, and just replacing the pipe that connects to it (just to give you new threads).  If you want, you can try to use ALL of the original plumbing and just use thread sealant on the mail threads.

[Nickbruh510]

18 minutes ago, seabass said:

No, I'm talking about leaving the bulkhead, and just replacing the pipe that connects to it (just to give you new threads).  If you want, you can try to use ALL of the original plumbing and just use thread sealant on the mail threads.

Its really weird. The red sea bulkhead doesnt have thread on the inside and the red sea plumbing inside of overflow actually has threads and an o ring. And i already cut the extra length of the red sea pipe. After eatching the bill wann video  he stated usong aquaroum safe silicone for threads . I thought of replacin the pipe inside of overflow but it os not regular pipe it is custom threaded so nothing  will work woth it.:(

[Nickbruh510]

28 minutes ago, seabass said:

No, I'm talking about leaving the bulkhead, and just replacing the pipe that connects to it (just to give you new threads).  If you want, you can try to use ALL of the original plumbing and just use thread sealant on the mail threads.

Thread sealant or silicone will be a nust if i use these abs female adaptors . Man i appreciatte all the help. If i can i will be trying the abs female adaptors with silicone aquaroum safe of course and if that doesnt work. Im drillong the back and covering red sea holes with a piece of polished edged glass.

[seabass]

12 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

After watching the bill wann video  he stated using aquarium safe silicone for threads.

I'm not sure I'd agree with that.  While the silicone might help prevent leaks, that's not how threaded connections are designed to work.

 

12 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

the red sea plumbing inside of overflow actually has threads and an o-ring.

If they are using an O-ring, then the threads are likely parallel (and the O-ring provides the seal).

 

12 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

The red sea bulkhead doesnt have thread on the inside

Since there are nuts on the outside, it sounds like slip fittings on the inside, for the external pipes.

 

2 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

if that doesnt work. Im drillong the back and covering red sea holes with a piece of polished edged glass.

I'm guessing that's what you'll have to do.  Good plan.

[Nickbruh510]

 6198001162.htmlhi

18 minutes ago, seabass said:

I'm not sure I'd agree with that.  While the silicone might help prevent leaks, that's not how threaded connections are designed to work.

 

If they are using an O-ring, then the threads are likely parallel (and the O-ring provides the seal).

 

Since there are nuts on the outside, it sounds like slip fittings on the inside, for the external pipes.

 

I'm guessing that's what you'll have to do.  Good plan.

Arghhhhhh plumbing a red sea reefer is nuts lol.

[seabass]

6 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

plumbing a red sea reefer is nuts

Yeah, nuts, bulkheads, and O-rings.

[Nickbruh510]

11 minutes ago, seabass said:

Yeah, nuts, bulkheads, and O-rings.

Dammit. Lol im damn near thinking of plugging the bulkhead ripoing out overflow and just drilling it lol

[kinetic]

Pretty good process of figuring it out Nick. But reading the thread, you're going to want to just drill it. I'd hate to see all the work and then you're still springing a leak or in danger of.

 

All the work you're putting into it, probably faster to just remove silicon and the overflow (freeing up a ton of display tank space in the process). BRS has a sale on the shadow overflow right now. Get something like the shadow box or ghost overflow. It's pretty simple to install, drill carefully and attach the bulkheads and fittings. I think it'll actually look better on a red sea tank. Though it is kind of the same price as all new plumbing from Red Sea, but at least this one won't break and it'll look better.

 

To be honest, if I move and keep this tank, I'm going to take out the internal overflow and put in a shadow/ghost overflow. I dislike the black dominating internal overflow. Takes so much space and is really out of place (since I'm running the tank without the black background).

 

http://www.reefsavvy.com/the-reef-savvy-difference

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/16-shadow-overflow-synergy-reef.html

 

Eshopp's seems to have 3 size options (eclipse line) and are cheaper:

http://www.eshopps.com/products/overflowboxes/

 

Of course, you could just put in two pipes into the tank and not even worry about an overflow.

[Nickbruh510]

26 minutes ago, kinetic said:

Pretty good process of figuring it out Nick. But reading the thread, you're going to want to just drill it. I'd hate to see all the work and then you're still springing a leak or in danger of.

 

All the work you're putting into it, probably faster to just remove silicon and the overflow (freeing up a ton of display tank space in the process). BRS has a sale on the shadow overflow right now. Get something like the shadow box or ghost overflow. It's pretty simple to install, drill carefully and attach the bulkheads and fittings. I think it'll actually look better on a red sea tank. Though it is kind of the same price as all new plumbing from Red Sea, but at least this one won't break and it'll look better.

 

To be honest, if I move and keep this tank, I'm going to take out the internal overflow and put in a shadow/ghost overflow. I dislike the black dominating internal overflow. Takes so much space and is really out of place (since I'm running the tank without the black background).

 

http://www.reefsavvy.com/the-reef-savvy-difference

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/16-shadow-overflow-synergy-reef.html

 

Eshopp's seems to have 3 size options (eclipse line) and are cheaper:

http://www.eshopps.com/products/overflowboxes/

 

Of course, you could just put in two pipes into the tank and not even worry about an overflow.

So far i spent 30$ on plumbing with 3 unions im gonna give it a shot. I even asked the master plumber bill wann and he said put silicone on it as a last resort so thats what im gonna try :). Worst case i will tear it out butbif i dont need to i will judt leave the red sea plumbing in the overflow and just do that. Remember that the red sea plumbong relies on that o rong and then thread so technically its water tight and the abs adaptor is just sealing it.:). If i can spend 30$ and say say screw red sea im a happy reefer:) gonna start gluing now:). Worst case i can detach the abs threading and start ripping out the overflow .DRILLiNG is plan b:)

[kinetic]

2 minutes ago, Nickbruh510 said:

So far i spent 30$ on plumbing with 3 unions im gonna give it a shot. I even asked the master plumber bill wann and he said put silicone on it as a last resort so thats what im gonna try :). Worst case i will tear it out butbif i dont need to i will judt leave the red sea plumbing in the overflow and just do that. Remember that the red sea plumbong relies on that o rong and then thread so technically its water tight and the abs adaptor is just sealing it.:). If i can spend 30$ and say say screw red sea im a happy reefer:) gonna start gluing now:). Worst case i can detach the abs threading and start ripping out the overflow .DRILLiNG is plan b:)

good luck!!

[Nickbruh510]

Three unions glued:). Waiting fot the abs to dry and then to put them together and tomorrow the sump piping and after lunch..... leak test!

[Nickbruh510]

Ohh and i measured  for the unions because of the tiny back hole on the reefer stand and guess what??... it clears lol for maintenance.

[Nickbruh510]

Got the makeshift union dry miunted and will silicone threads and silicone around it also. And let dry fir a day while i work on plumbing for return and drain:) i habe a good feeling about this...

[Nickbruh510]

Siliconed the threads and threw a tiny bead from abs fitting to glass just to be sure  i hate leaks. I habe so much faith in my red sea hack lol im gonna go ahead and finish the plumbing

[Nickbruh510]

This is what I do at 1:38 am on a saturday .... Why?

Because...

Welp...

FISH TANK!!!

 

[Nickbruh510]

Got plumbing done. Need an o ring for the main drain (red sea plumbing) going to home depot tomorrow. But ball valves are closed and overflow is filled to see if any leaks happen over night  then in the am i am going to run the return for a few hours before I add salt.........so far I have spent about 75$ and still have vynil tubing and pvc glue i can use later. I was going to add a gate valve but going ti try the ball valve and if it is too noisy i will spring for a gate valve:) . All the plumbing fits like it should and si far in the past few hours i am glad to report no leaks:). 

Ohhh and did I mention this was my first time ever doing plumbing. Other times i bough tanks they came with plumbing or it was it needs tubing. I have never used pvc glue before and i must say that is the hufflepuff. I was so lightheaded.