mlivvy Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 My dimmable ATI has been having controller issues for a while now. I reached out to ATI who helped troubleshoot it and they determined that the controller needs replacing. The controller is $120. Right now the light has nanobox leds controlled by a Storm X. I reached out to coralux and asked about the Storm X dimming the T5's. They have a custom converter that'll make 2 channels support 10v for the T5's. They said that if the t5's don't shut off completely at 0, I could possibly use the fan signal to trigger off a relay and shut off the t5's. The ATI controller has cables going into a relay and i'm wondering if that's how they trigger off the t5's. I posted a pic of the relay. Also any other suggestions or ideas are welcomed. I'm also looking at the bluefish controller which supports 10v dimming but unsure if it'll work for t5's. EDIT- FOUND THE INFO ON R2R Quote Link to comment
ug.mac Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 ATI controller has a separated channel for 5V output to the relay that's a simple timer. As you will notice while programing it, 10% doesn't turn on the light, you have to have a ON event first. You can get a WIFI relay for the same thing. This relay will control 110v going into the ballasts then your bluefish controller feed 0-10v for dimming and ballast won't be on unless there's 0-10v input so the sequence will still be the same: WIFI relay ON->Bluefish 1%->x%->1%->WIFI relay OFF. Link to the wifi switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sonoff-WiFi-Wireless-Smart-Switch-Module-ABS-Shell-Socket-for-DIY-Home-/182145570833?hash=item2a68b8d811:g:Br0AAOSwisVZrnNs One thing I forgot to add, if the ATI controller can still switch ON/OFF then you are all set, just feed the 0-10V signal from the bluefish and nothing else need replacing. This way you will still have the thermal control. Quote Link to comment
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