Abnormal Looking GSP?

[ServingAces15]

This is it. The week where everything goes wrong in my tank.

I've had green star polyps for several months now with no problems. In the last few days; however, I've noticed that they seem lighter in color? I've attached pictures to show what they look like now compared to before. My tank parameters are as follows:

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrites: 0ppm

Nitrates: 5ppm

pH: 8.2

Calcium: 320-350ppm

Salinity: 1.027

Tank temperature: 85 (Fahrenheit) 

 

Today was water change day and the salinity is now back to 1.024. I'm doing my best to keep the tank temperature controlled but it's hard with having a smaller tank (13.5 gallons) in this summer heat. I will also note that I recently switched the LFS in which I purchase RO/DI water and I had a green hair algae outbreak in my tank. 

[Lula_Mae]

The GSP definitely looks bleached, which is generally a sign of stress.  How hot is the tank getting, and how much does the temperature fluctuate on a daily basis?  Have you tried a fan on the tank?  Has your heater malfunctioned at all?  You said you got a GHA outbreak after switching to a different LFS water--have they changed their RODI membranes recently?  Was it a different salt?  What's the salinity of their salt (or are you mixing your own from plain RO/DI water)?  How long is your photoperiod?

 

You don't necessarily have to answer all these questions lol.  I'm just throwing out a few things that came to mind for you to think about as possibilities.  My first thought, though, would be the heat/temperature fluctuations, or that something in the new water is not to the GSP's liking.  Is anything else looking bleached or stressed?

[WV Reefer]

What's your lighting situation?

[ServingAces15]

39 minutes ago, Lula_Mae said:

The GSP definitely looks bleached, which is generally a sign of stress.  How hot is the tank getting, and how much does the temperature fluctuate on a daily basis?  Have you tried a fan on the tank?  Has your heater malfunctioned at all?  You said you got a GHA outbreak after switching to a different LFS water--have they changed their RODI membranes recently?  Was it a different salt?  What's the salinity of their salt (or are you mixing your own from plain RO/DI water)?  How long is your photoperiod?

 

You don't necessarily have to answer all these questions lol.  I'm just throwing out a few things that came to mind for you to think about as possibilities.  My first thought, though, would be the heat/temperature fluctuations, or that something in the new water is not to the GSP's liking.  Is anything else looking bleached or stressed?

The light I have is a 14000K LED. I run the whites for 6 hours and the blue lights for additional 1-2 hours after that. The temperature fluctuates 1-2 degrees each day and the highest I've recorded the tank temp being all summer is 87F. I currently do not have my heater running at all because it has been so hot outside. Not sure about the RODI membranes but I buy fresh RODI water and I mix my own saltwater using Crystal Sea Marine Mix.  One of my xenia stalks died but I have so much and the rest has been fine so I wasn't too concerned about the one. I have a hammer coral that is doing great and since that coral tends to be more picky than something like GSP, this whole coral issue with the GSP has surprised me. I personally think it may be a water issue, since that is the only factor that has really changed in the last two weeks. As for a fan, I haven't tried that method of cooling the tank. What would be the best way to go about that?

I figured answering all of your questions would be helpful. Thank you so much for your help thus far in presenting more to think about.

[anizato]

Dude! your temp is WAAAY too high! 

 

85-86 is intense!!  any more than that and you are killing everything! stay closer to 78-79-80. 

87???!!! WOW.... I have seen tanks crash at 89... scary numbers bro!

Maybe its best to keep the fan on AND the heater at 78 degrees so it doesn't get lower than that...

You will need to have LOTS of RODI for ATO because it will be an immense amount of evaporation!

So just get a little computer fan, or any small fan and point it at the surface of the water. (this will make the water temp lower fast, and evaporate it, and be replenished with the RODI from the ATO)

As I said, I would keep it on during the hot periods of the day, and ALSO have the heater in there to keep water from cooling down below 78.

[Christopher Marks]

Definitely sounds like you're pushing the upper limits of water temperature at 85-87°F, and the GSP is starting to bleach as a result. You'll need to start cooling the tank to slowly correct the temperature, don't do anything too rapidly.

 

A cooling fan for your tank simply involves getting air to blow over the surface of your tank, it will help cool the water down slowly, but it will also increase evaporation, so you will need to top off with freshwater more frequently. If you have a small fan already available, you could point it towards your tank for a temporary solution. There are aquarium specific cooling fans that clip onto the top edge of a tank, check out our sponsor directory and search for cooling fans in their stores.

 

It's vital to stabilize the temperature and avoid large swings during the day. A fan might get you through in the near term, but if this is more than just an unusual heat wave, investing in a chiller of some sort may be your only option.

[ServingAces15]

I really appreciate all the feedback and kindness from you all despite the fact that my tank is sorta a mess. I purchased an aquarium fan for my tank that a friend recommended (because everyone stays up until almost 1am researching aquarium fans, bleaching corals, and spending yet more money on their tanks...right?). I'll set my heater to 78 to prevent it from becoming too cool. And I think I'm going to switch back to my other LFS for my water since I never had any issues while I was using water from that store. 

[I'm Batman]

2 hours ago, anizato said:

Dude! your temp is WAAAY too high! 

 

85-86 is intense!!  any more than that and you are killing everything! stay closer to 78-79-80. 

 

Anyone seen "Chasing Coral" on Netflix??? A 5 degree temp change can wipe out an entire reef.... guess how? Bleaching from being too hot!! ?

 

Im thinking that 1.027 - 1.024 doesn't help either. 

 

Just curious...

What brand and style 14000k light? Should you be having light for more than 6 hours? I have an automated system but my light is on for 8-10 with 2 hours before and after if blue. How many watts is that heater for a 13.5 gallon? Is it stuck in an 85F position inside?

 

That ich on that clown and anything else affected could be from the heat. Need to start topping off with RO ice cubes.

 

[clownin around]

Its sounds like you have an evo 13.5  and are using the stock light in which case I assume that you're using the stock lid too. I have the same tank and kept gsp growing under the stock lights very successfully before upgrading them so I would agree your temp swings are the main problem. It sounds like you're trying to budget but if you can get a clip on style light and not use the stock hood that would immediately. When I ran the stock hood/light there was a crazy amount of condensation under the hood and the led bar runs very hot right over your water.

[Clown79]

I see a few issues.

 

If the previous lfs water caused algae and the new lfs  water is questionable, why not just buy distilled water?

It's pure water. 

 

Temp. Too high.

The fan will help. It's the down side to tanks with lids. 

Even a fan in the room will help.

 

How long are lights on for?

 

Salinity. Should be either 1.025 or 1.026 for corals.

Jumping from 1.024 to 1.027 will effect things.

 

Are you topping up every day with fresh water? It's essential to top up daily. Make a mark on the side of the tank and top up everyday to that mark.

 

Alkalinty- are you testing this? It's really important when having corals to test alkalinity and the more corals you add, the more alk is consumed, which leads to swings 

[Lula_Mae]

On 8/10/2017 at 10:37 PM, ServingAces15 said:

The light I have is a 14000K LED. I run the whites for 6 hours and the blue lights for additional 1-2 hours after that. The temperature fluctuates 1-2 degrees each day and the highest I've recorded the tank temp being all summer is 87F. I currently do not have my heater running at all because it has been so hot outside. Not sure about the RODI membranes but I buy fresh RODI water and I mix my own saltwater using Crystal Sea Marine Mix.  One of my xenia stalks died but I have so much and the rest has been fine so I wasn't too concerned about the one. I have a hammer coral that is doing great and since that coral tends to be more picky than something like GSP, this whole coral issue with the GSP has surprised me. I personally think it may be a water issue, since that is the only factor that has really changed in the last two weeks. As for a fan, I haven't tried that method of cooling the tank. What would be the best way to go about that?

I figured answering all of your questions would be helpful. Thank you so much for your help thus far in presenting more to think about.

No problem. As others have said, 87 is very warm and the likely source of your problem.  I once had a tank in which the heater kept it 85+ in mid-winter no matter what I set the heater on (it was a Hydor Theo and I was NOT impressed) and that tank never did very well because everything was always heat stressed.  You said the algae issue came AFTER you switched to a different LFS for water, correct?  Do you have a hood with lights over your tank?  If so, finding a way to raise the hood a bit so it's not closing up the tank will help immediately drop the temperature a couple degrees.  The way a fan works is by blowing across the water surface and the evap helps with cooling--it won't be as effective if you have a hood on.  One thing that might be an option is to buy a window air conditioner or a room air conditioner to cool just the room the tank is in.  Even if you just cool it to 80 or so, that will make a huge difference for your tank.  Stability is key (and that goes for a stable salinity too, 1.027 to 1.024 is a pretty steep drop; it's best to adjust salinity in increments).

On 8/11/2017 at 1:44 AM, I'm Batman said:

Anyone seen "Chasing Coral" on Netflix??? A 5 degree temp change can wipe out an entire reef.... guess how? Bleaching from being too hot!! ?

 

Im thinking that 1.027 - 1.024 doesn't help either. 

 

Just curious...

What brand and style 14000k light? Should you be having light for more than 6 hours? I have an automated system but my light is on for 8-10 with 2 hours before and after if blue. How many watts is that heater for a 13.5 gallon? Is it stuck in an 85F position inside?

 

That ich on that clown and anything else affected could be from the heat. Need to start topping off with RO ice cubes.

 

S/he did not have a heater in the tank, if I understand correctly.  However, my old Hydor Theo would be 85+ while set at 76.   I didn't even keep that junk for water change water.

[Clown79]

Chasing coral is a documentary.

 

Not only are temp rising causing issued but another issue is ph dropping to very low levels which causes issues with alk.

[I'm Batman]

Hey by the way, they have a window air conditioner at Walmart for $59

[Clown79]

That will definitely help

[ServingAces15]

On 8/11/2017 at 2:06 AM, clownin around said:

Its sounds like you have an evo 13.5  and are using the stock light in which case I assume that you're using the stock lid too. I have the same tank and kept gsp growing under the stock lights very successfully before upgrading them so I would agree your temp swings are the main problem. It sounds like you're trying to budget but if you can get a clip on style light and not use the stock hood that would immediately. When I ran the stock hood/light there was a crazy amount of condensation under the hood and the led bar runs very hot right over your water.

I am currently running the stock light for this tank and I own this tank. I'm looking into buying a new light system but there are just so many choices! Anything in particular that you would recommend? 

 

9 hours ago, Clown79 said:

I see a few issues.

 

If the previous lfs water caused algae and the new lfs  water is questionable, why not just buy distilled water?

It's pure water. 

 

Temp. Too high.

The fan will help. It's the down side to tanks with lids. 

Even a fan in the room will help.

 

How long are lights on for?

 

Salinity. Should be either 1.025 or 1.026 for corals.

Jumping from 1.024 to 1.027 will effect things.

 

Are you topping up every day with fresh water? It's essential to top up daily. Make a mark on the side of the tank and top up everyday to that mark.

 

Alkalinty- are you testing this? It's really important when having corals to test alkalinity and the more corals you add, the more alk is consumed, which leads to swings 

As I stated earlier, my lights are on for 6 hours with blue lights on 1-2 hours after that. I'm not sure how the salinity jumped to 1.027 because I do top off the tank daily with fresh RO water. No, I am currently not testing for alk because I only have the 3 corals and I was not planning to add anymore.

[clownin around]

16 hours ago, ServingAces15 said:

I am currently running the stock light for this tank and I own this tank. I'm looking into buying a new light system but there are just so many choices! Anything in particular that you would recommend? 

I have the nanobox tide plus M from and it has been great as has Dave, the owner. I get spending almost twice as much as the tank on a light is kinda crazy but if you can find one used for cheaper that'd be a great alternative. Also hear good things about the AI prime from a friend that has one over their tank. 

 

Don't overlook if you run the tank without a lid your evaporation is going to jump, I go through roughly 5x as much RO water now that I run the tank topless. Added an ATO not too long ago after having to top the tank off 2-3 times a day.

 

[ServingAces15]

On 8/13/2017 at 3:10 AM, clownin around said:

I have the nanobox tide plus M from and it has been great as has Dave, the owner. I get spending almost twice as much as the tank on a light is kinda crazy but if you can find one used for cheaper that'd be a great alternative. Also hear good things about the AI prime from a friend that has one over their tank. 

 

Don't overlook if you run the tank without a lid your evaporation is going to jump, I go through roughly 5x as much RO water now that I run the tank topless. Added an ATO not too long ago after having to top the tank off 2-3 times a day.

 

Thank you for the pointers and recommendations! My current solution to the hood was to cut it. I've been happy with the lighting performance of the stock light I have, given the corals in my tank. Therefore, I cut the hood to create a 'mount' for the light. This allows me to run the cooling fans that came in today. My water temperature has already dropped 2 degrees and allows the top to be open and for heat to escape. I've essentially created a topless tank. I will keep everyone posted on whether or not my gsp make any progress now that the temperature is under control. I am also switching back to my old LFS for water. I will look into an ATO system when I get tired of the top offs. Thanks everyone for the advice and help.

[ninjamyst]

those xenia looks so pretty!  good luck with the tank.  a fan does wonders