New here, questions about setting up my Spec 5

[twowilldo]

Howdy all, this looks like a great place to get connected about a build I am considering.  I am a former reefer from years back and admittedly am more than a little bit rusty. 

 

Real quick background, bought the Spec one year ago to house a pretty little double-tail betta in a more proper environment than I had been keeping him in. Little guy "aged out" on me this morning, had him for about three years. Took tank down and scrubbed it. The tank has never seen copper. Some time ago, I took down the Spectrapure RO/DI system with the intent of selling it on Craigslist, but after dealing with three flaky buyers in a row (setting appointments and then not showing up) I gave up and put the system in a tub in the basement. Now I am thinking it's a good thing I wasn't able to sell it.

 

At a local LFS, I saw a lovely all zoa garden in an even smaller sized tank than the 5 gal. Thinking I'd like to set one up for myself. I would like to put a mix of zoa (and maybe a ric or two?) in, no fish... maybe a hermit or a couple of snails only to control algae. I like the idea that I can keep this aquarium compact and tidy without a bunch of equipment showing.

 

Questions:

1. Everything is stock in this tank and it all works really well. Will it be necessary to change out the original pump or is it going to move enough water though that back area?

2. Was planning on sticking with the existing media box, don't want to add additional sumps or... looking to keep this very simple.

3. Assuming I will need something like a small Koralia on the display side or ? as well if stock pump isn't enough?

4. I had an itty bitty submersible 5W heater in there for wintertime for the betta. Should be enough for to keep the coral comfortable, yes? No?

5. I always used aragonite for reef, however I am wondering if it would work to mix that with the black coated aquarium gravel for a contrasting effect. Has anyone here ever had problems from using coated gravel?

6. The biggest question is the stock light bar. It is LEDs, including whites/2 blues, but everything is sort of packed into a rubberized coating. Is this enough for the zoas/rics or ? I have no experience changing lights at all. My former reef tanks were all of the T5 variety, LEDs weren't on the radar yet.

 

I know I am jumping in with a whole lot of questions here, I guess I am excited to get started on this project.

[Friendly]

you should have a more powerful heater. 25w would be best,

 

return pump and powerhead depends on what you want to keep and the type of flow that's necessary. I'm not sure if the IM spin stream will work on other tanks, but if so, getting one of those and a more powerful return pump would likely be affordable. 

 

the light will need to be changed as it's focus is for a fw tank with live plants. you're likely to find the light to be more expensive than the tank was.

 

you will definitely need to upgrade the foam media basket as the water will only channel down the sides of you have anything in the cutouts. take a look at InTank media baskets. they make custom caddy's for almost everything AIO and they run about $30. 

[twowilldo]

Thank you for the reply Friendly. I've done a lot of reading and found lots of good information about what other people have done. Probably should have done more searching before posting, duh. 

 

Will upgrade the heater. I looked at them at the fish store today, they are definitely bigger than that little one I had in there before. Not sure if the heater will need to go into the display area or will it fit in the same area as the tube for the return pump leaving room for the basket? I had an InTank basket in my Biocube29 along with a small magnetic light to keep the chaeto going. It all fit in the AIO area in the back nicely. I'd like to stay as minimalist as possible and keep things simple.

 

Have decided upon a Current USA Orbit LED. Yes, it cost more than the original setup, no surprise there.

 

Fish store has a Spec V setup and they still have the stock pump with a 240 in it as well. It was their opinion that for a zoa garden I could leave it alone, just put slide it to maximum flow capacity. I gave my Koralia 240 away not long ago, but the spin stream seems like it would take up less space. Will check it out.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

 

 

[samnaz]

What size Current Orbit? I have a 24-36" up for grabs but I'm assuming that's far too large for a 5 gal tank, I have no idea what the dimensions are of those tanks. 

 

It's a great light, highly underrated imo. And perfect for your setup/coral plans.

[twowilldo]

It is one that adjusts between 18 and 24 inches, the Spec is approx 20" end to end.

 

I've been checking Craigslist in my area, nothing coming up for those lights. Finding it online at a few places for $105 and free shipping. Thanks for the input that it will work for the zoas, I don't want to get to nuts with different kinds of corals, just mixes of color will do nicely I think. Well, maybe a ric or two, but nothing else.  ;-)

[Friendly]

we'll....24" at it's smallest would be a bit too long, but you'd have excellent tank coverage and you could use the lighting over the AIO to create a small chaeto reactor if you wanted too as the portion over the sump could be your fuge light.   

 

not to mention a light you could retask if/when you get a larger tank.  

[twowilldo]

 And your finder's fee fee from samnaz will be?

 

Naw, we've had big tanks in the past. Good point though.

 

An ATO something else I've got to look at. The tank is on a nightstand and there is a shelf underneath. I thought I could hide the tank for the ATO under there. I think the vertical rise will be around 24" - 30".

[twowilldo]

Went shopping today, picked up fine aragonite sand and wet live rock, along with a Koralia submersible 25W heater. Had to pick up a bucket of salt water (it was cheap for such a small amount). Set the tank up, the stock pump is running at full open. Also added a cube of frozen shrimp to get things going. I guess I will have to put the RO/DI back up or keep buying water for top offs and saltwater for changes. I think the Spectrapure is due for a new membrane at the very least anyway.

 

The tank is a cloudy mess at the moment.

 

I won't need the new overhead light for while but here's the thing at this point in time:

Can I put the heater in the return chamber? Right now it is sitting in the bigger chamber. If I put in a media basket the heater would have to go into the display area otherwise. I will just manually top off for now but I know eventually I'll want an ATO for time away from home. If I go with the Tunze, I can't see where it could possibly fit. Trying to avoid installing a sump, whole idea of this is to stay as clutter-free as possible.

 

One more thing... the InTank info says to block that little slit in the divider wall to maximize the flow to the top. Ugh, now I have to siphon it down, dry it off and stick some silicone over it. Why is that little hole even there?

[Lula_Mae]

On 8/1/2017 at 8:58 PM, twowilldo said:

Howdy all, this looks like a great place to get connected about a build I am considering.  I am a former reefer from years back and admittedly am more than a little bit rusty. 

 

Real quick background, bought the Spec one year ago to house a pretty little double-tail betta in a more proper environment than I had been keeping him in. Little guy "aged out" on me this morning, had him for about three years. Took tank down and scrubbed it. The tank has never seen copper. Some time ago, I took down the Spectrapure RO/DI system with the intent of selling it on Craigslist, but after dealing with three flaky buyers in a row (setting appointments and then not showing up) I gave up and put the system in a tub in the basement. Now I am thinking it's a good thing I wasn't able to sell it.

 

At a local LFS, I saw a lovely all zoa garden in an even smaller sized tank than the 5 gal. Thinking I'd like to set one up for myself. I would like to put a mix of zoa (and maybe a ric or two?) in, no fish... maybe a hermit or a couple of snails only to control algae. I like the idea that I can keep this aquarium compact and tidy without a bunch of equipment showing.

 

Questions:

1. Everything is stock in this tank and it all works really well. Will it be necessary to change out the original pump or is it going to move enough water though that back area?

2. Was planning on sticking with the existing media box, don't want to add additional sumps or... looking to keep this very simple.

3. Assuming I will need something like a small Koralia on the display side or ? as well if stock pump isn't enough?

4. I had an itty bitty submersible 5W heater in there for wintertime for the betta. Should be enough for to keep the coral comfortable, yes? No?

5. I always used aragonite for reef, however I am wondering if it would work to mix that with the black coated aquarium gravel for a contrasting effect. Has anyone here ever had problems from using coated gravel?

6. The biggest question is the stock light bar. It is LEDs, including whites/2 blues, but everything is sort of packed into a rubberized coating. Is this enough for the zoas/rics or ? I have no experience changing lights at all. My former reef tanks were all of the T5 variety, LEDs weren't on the radar yet.

 

I know I am jumping in with a whole lot of questions here, I guess I am excited to get started on this project.

I was going to recommend the 25w heater from Aqua Forest Aquariums as it is small and compact, but hopefully the one you've got will work fine.  I would wait and see whether you need to replace the pump or add a small powerhead (Hydor makes some pico pumps that would be a better size than something like the Koralia Nano in a tank this size).  The Current light you've decided on will probably work perfectly for this tank!  Welcome back to the hobby!

[twowilldo]

Hi Lula_Mae, I had already purchased the Koralia 25W. I got it to fit down in the return chamber, just had to take the suction cups off. It is not real roomy in there so is held down pretty well by the return line.

 

Thank you for your advice, appreciated very much.

[lkoechle]

You can look at my mantis tank.  It's pretty much the spec 5 but with different lights and frame.  I have a fluval 25 w heater (I'm 90% sure its fluval) that has plenty of room back there and a koralia 240 for flow. True the koralia is bigger @Lula_Mae  but I don't think it disrupts anything. And it's 240 gph vs 180 gph.

 

[Friendly]

15 hours ago, lkoechle said:

You can look at my mantis tank.  It's pretty much the spec 5 but with different lights and frame.  I have a fluval 25 w heater (I'm 90% sure its fluval) that has plenty of room back there and a koralia 240 for flow. True the koralia is bigger @Lula_Mae  but I don't think it disrupts anything. And it's 240 gph vs 180 gph.

 

 

that is an awesome tank, Iko!!!

[twowilldo]

Wow, beautiful tank and looks so healthy too. Ditto, what Friendly wrote.

[Friendly]

do you have any pictures when you started up with that particular aquascaping? or pics from the top or side? 

 

edit - oh...tw...sorry for the threadjack.  

[twowilldo]

On 8/9/2017 at 5:08 PM, Friendly said:

do you have any pictures when you started up with that particular aquascaping? or pics from the top or side? 

 

edit - oh...tw...sorry for the threadjack.  

No worries, I asked myself that same question, wondering how the rockscaping was done. I have an arched rock thing going on there too, I love that look.

 

My rock has only undergone curing from the tank at the LFS, but is not true live rock out out of an established tank. It's only been a week of cycling and the ammonia is finally starting to drop, nitrites up there pretty good still. 

 

Since I only plan to keep zoas and rics I am wondering how high that Current Marine Orbit should be above the water line? Right now it sits on the rim on its little legs and I haven't turned it on except to play with the buttons and see how it all works. Once I have healthy water ready to go and begin to add the corals, better to raise it up you think? Or should I program the LEDs instead, so I don't overdo it with too much light? Maybe this is a question for the lighting forum...

 

It looks like this presently... Just doing it's biological thing... sort of a crappy picture, I used my phone.

 

[Lula_Mae]

7 hours ago, twowilldo said:

No worries, I asked myself that same question, wondering how the rockscaping was done. I have an arched rock thing going on there too, I love that look.

 

My rock has only undergone curing from the tank at the LFS, but is not true live rock out out of an established tank. It's only been a week of cycling and the ammonia is finally starting to drop, nitrites up there pretty good still. 

 

Since I only plan to keep zoas and rics I am wondering how high that Current Marine Orbit should be above the water line? Right now it sits on the rim on its little legs and I haven't turned it on except to play with the buttons and see how it all works. Once I have healthy water ready to go and begin to add the corals, better to raise it up you think? Or should I program the LEDs instead, so I don't overdo it with too much light? Maybe this is a question for the lighting forum...

 

It looks like this presently... Just doing it's biological thing... sort of a crappy picture, I used my phone.

 

The light is dimmable, isn't it?  I'd just do that then slowly raise the percentage as things get used to it.

[mcaswell]

On 8/4/2017 at 11:46 PM, twowilldo said:

Can I put the heater in the return chamber? Right now it is sitting in the bigger chamber. If I put in a media basket the heater would have to go into the display area otherwise. I will just manually top off for now but I know eventually I'll want an ATO for time away from home. If I go with the Tunze, I can't see where it could possibly fit. Trying to avoid installing a sump, whole idea of this is to stay as clutter-free as possible.

 

One more thing... the InTank info says to block that little slit in the divider wall to maximize the flow to the top. Ugh, now I have to siphon it down, dry it off and stick some silicone over it. Why is that little hole even there?

I'm struggling with the heater vs. ATO issue as well.  The NeoTherm fits in that compartment, but it's a tight squeeze.  I'm thinking the only ATO sensor that has any chance at all of fitting in there too is the Smart ATO Micro's penny-size optical sensor.

 

Regarding the little bottom slit, it's there to keep the pump from running dry if the tank level drops below the upper intake.  I plugged mine with epoxy putty.

[mcaswell]

Oh, and one more thing, regarding flow / return pump / powerhead.  I initially decided to forgo the return pump upgrade, adding a Jebao SW2 for flow instead.  But I soon discovered that the flow of the pump is so weak that it seemed like barely any water was making it through the InTank media rack (the water just sorta dribbled down the inside of the intake wall).  Using the included surface skimmer piece helped, but not much.  In the end, I did the AQ600 pump, and I'm glad I did.  Still not tons of flow through the media rack, but enough.  And there's enough flow in the tank now without a powerhead (even the tiny SW2 looks pretty big in this tank, so I was glad that I didn't need it).

[Lula_Mae]

16 minutes ago, mcaswell said:

I'm struggling with the heater vs. ATO issue as well.  The NeoTherm fits in that compartment, but it's a tight squeeze.  I'm thinking the only ATO sensor that has any chance at all of fitting in there too is the Smart ATO Micro's penny-size optical sensor.

 

Regarding the little bottom slit, it's there to keep the pump from running dry if the tank level drops below the upper intake.  I plugged mine with epoxy putty.

If you need a smaller heater, Aqua Forest Aquariums offers a very slender one in 25w and 50w versions for a very reasonable price.  I have been very happy with mine.  It has an external controller to set the temperature with.

[mcaswell]

15 minutes ago, Lula_Mae said:

If you need a smaller heater, Aqua Forest Aquariums offers a very slender one in 25w and 50w versions for a very reasonable price.  I have been very happy with mine.  It has an external controller to set the temperature with.

Interesting... how long is the heating element portion?

[Lula_Mae]

26 minutes ago, mcaswell said:

Interesting... how long is the heating element portion?

It's maybe 6-7 inches tall and very slender, the thinnest heater I've seen (round, at least, rather than flat like the Cobalt ones).  It was a tiny bit too long to fit in an AC20 but fits easily in my AC70 refugium.  I'm not familiar with the size of the Spec chambers so can't say how it will fit but it might work better than something wide and flat.

[twowilldo]

16 hours ago, Lula_Mae said:

The light is dimmable, isn't it?  I'd just do that then slowly raise the percentage as things get used to it.

Yes, I learned reading the full instructions yesterday that the lights are programmable in both the white and blue ranges separately, in addition to the 4 preprogrammed settings. Once the tank is ready to add coral, I will probably use the recommended coral acclimation setting (M2) then work up from there. I guess I was stuck in the old-school mindset where the T5 and actinic bulbs in the hood had to be moved up and down, along with a Power Center timer to compensate.

 

Ah, technology... never had LEDs over tanks before, liking it.

[twowilldo]

13 hours ago, Lula_Mae said:

It's maybe 6-7 inches tall and very slender, the thinnest heater I've seen (round, at least, rather than flat like the Cobalt ones).  It was a tiny bit too long to fit in an AC20 but fits easily in my AC70 refugium.  I'm not familiar with the size of the Spec chambers so can't say how it will fit but it might work better than something wide and flat.

I just measured from the top of the Aq 600 pump to the water line in the return chamber. It is 7". The stock Fluval pump is a little less half the height of the Aqueon so you'd get about another inch and a quarter or so of room to submerse a heater (about 8.25").

 

The Hydor 25W heater I bought is really far off from the dial on top. I had to turn it up to 83° just to get the tank up to 78°. Since I discovered that, I've been reading those Hydor's seem to have an issue with calibration. It wasn't expensive so I might put in one of these other heater suggestions and save the Hydor for a backup or use it to heat the change water in the winter.

[Lula_Mae]

2 hours ago, twowilldo said:

I just measured from the top of the Aq 600 pump to the water line in the return chamber. It is 7". The stock Fluval pump is a little less half the height of the Aqueon so you'd get about another inch and a quarter or so of room to submerse a heater (about 8.25").

 

The Hydor 25W heater I bought is really far off from the dial on top. I had to turn it up to 83° just to get the tank up to 78°. Since I discovered that, I've been reading those Hydor's seem to have an issue with calibration. It wasn't expensive so I might put in one of these other heater suggestions and save the Hydor for a backup or use it to heat the change water in the winter.

I had a Hydor 25w in a previous 5.5 gallon tank and by the end it was set on the mid-70's and keeping the tank in the mid-upper 80's consistently.  Nothing did well in that tank.  I'd bought it to replace my Visitherm Stealth heaters after they were recalled but found the Theo to be nothing but junk.  I would definitely get a different heater, maybe save that one for water change water or something.  This is the heater I have and I really like it, external controls so the heater itself can be smaller.  It should fit without issue in your chamber from what you describe.  For extra redundancy, some people get a temperature controller to help maintain temps at the desired range (I haven't gotten one yet but I've got it set on 79 and my digital thermometer reads a rock steady 78.6 constantly).  I haven't had it through the winter yet so I'm not sure how it performs when the house gets colder but I expect it should be fine.

[twowilldo]

On 8/11/2017 at 10:15 PM, Lula_Mae said:

If you need a smaller heater, Aqua Forest Aquariums offers a very slender one in 25w and 50w versions for a very reasonable price.  I have been very happy with mine.  It has an external controller to set the temperature with.

So the Hydor 25W heater is a piece of crap, in my opinion. I am having a heck of a time keeping the temperature regulated... have to turn it clear up into the mid-high 80s just to get it to 78F. And it still wants to fluctuate down a few degrees. I don't trust it at all at this point and I think when the cooler weather sets in more regularly (it has been cool and rainy here along the Front Range, Colorado) this heater won't be reliable. If the circuitry decides to really go to 87 degrees that would suck. I have been studying other brands of heaters for nanos and took your advice Lula, ordered the Archaea.

 

I'll hang on to the other one for heating SW changes.