New 15 gal aqueous column

[Antonio]

I started this up this weekend. Bought this live rock from local fish store and think I got  a little surprise. Anyone know what is in the rock?  Sorry for double picture  could not figure out how to delete. 

[GregEmmitte]

You're going to eventually need more flow. And if get a hang on the back filter. I learned from @clown79 that canister filters harbor nitrates. I had the same one.

[Clown79]

Welcome!

 

The rock looks like it has polyps on it. Possibly plythoa or zoanthids. They should make it through the cycle.

 

How many pounds of rock is in the tank? You want about 10lbs.

 

You may want to build  up the rock to add height for future corals since it's a deep tank. Easier to get light to them that way.

 

Does it have original lights?

 

You will need a powerhead in the tank. It's absolutely necessary to have water movement

 

Canister filters. You can use it but it needs frequent cleaning or it will become a nutrient trap.

I'm not sure what media is in it but it may need customized media.

 

I prefer hob filters. Easier to clean. Provides good flow. My favourite is the seachem tidal. I have it on my 15g.

[Antonio]

 

On 7/23/2017 at 9:19 PM, Clown79 said:

Welcome!

 

The rock looks like it has polyps on it. Possibly plythoa or zoanthids. They should make it through the cycle.

 

How many pounds of rock is in the tank? You want about 10lbs.

 

You may want to build  up the rock to add height for future corals since it's a deep tank. Easier to get light to them that way.

 

Does it have original lights?

 

You will need a powerhead in the tank. It's absolutely necessary to have water movement

 

Canister filters. You can use it but it needs frequent cleaning or it will become a nutrient trap.

I'm not sure what media is in it but it may need customized media.

 

I prefer hob filters. Easier to clean. Provides good flow. My favourite is the seachem tidal. I have it on my 15g.

Thanks for the info. So far 3 lbs rock. I plan on getting more. Still original lights. Looking for lights and small powerhead to put in.  What do you put in the HOB for filter material?

[Clown79]

If you add more rock, I would do it while it's cycling not after.

The rock is your biological filtration. 3lbs isn't enough for 15g

You will want about 10lbs

 

There are various powerheads/wavemakers in different price ranges. I personally prefer one I can control, the speed and type of flow.

 

Jebao sw2

Aqamai

Mp10

Hydor koralia 420

Sicce 530

Tunze

 

lighting will be more complicated because of the depth. It will really depend on the corals you want to keep and the dimensions vs what the lights specs allow

 

Ai Prime

Nanobox

Mars Aqua

Coral Compulsion Par 38

Kessil

 

In the Hob filter we run filter floss, carbon, and other medias

 

Filter floss - collects particles. Buy it bulk, cut to size, switch out twice a week

Carbon - removes toxins and polishes water I buy it in containers and place it in media bags, it's rinsed weekly and the carbon switched every 2-3 weeks

 

some use purigen in media bags, often when we have phosphate issues or want to control phos we will use phosguard or phosban in small quantities in a media bag

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Hi and welcome! Nice tank!

Have you got any plans for fish? 

 

-Paola

[Antonio]

1 hour ago, SantaMonicaHelp said:

Hi and welcome! Nice tank!

Have you got any plans for fish? 

 

-Paola

I know a clown fish and a banded coral shrimp. If possible, I would do smaller shrimp also. 

The LFS said to start with a green chromis (died within 6 hrs of putting in the tank on Monday) to start the cycle.  Also bought 2 turbo snails ( LFS said they were) which have not moved since put in the tank, and 2 small hermit crabs ( they are still moving).  The green chromis was not looking to health when I got it home (deep breathing and a what looked like a bruise by its mouth). I do trust this store though. I've been dealing with them for my greasy water tank for over a year. Win some/lose some. 

[Clown79]

I wouldn't put any livestock in the tank until it's cycled.

 

You need to get more liverock in there and start testing to ensure the cycle is started and ended 

[Antonio]

On 7/25/2017 at 8:29 PM, Clown79 said:

I wouldn't put any livestock in the tank until it's cycled.

 

You need to get more liverock in there and start testing to ensure the cycle is started and ended 

Agreed. 

[Antonio]

2 minutes ago, Antonio said:

Agreed. 

10 lbs more live rock. 

[Clown79]

Looks good

[GregEmmitte]

2 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

Looks good

Yea it does. I like the dead acro at the top. Perfect for branching euphyllia.

[Antonio]

More angles. 

[Antonio]

On 7/25/2017 at 2:26 PM, Clown79 said:

If you add more rock, I would do it while it's cycling not after.

The rock is your biological filtration. 3lbs isn't enough for 15g

You will want about 10lbs

 

There are various powerheads/wavemakers in different price ranges. I personally prefer one I can control, the speed and type of flow.

 

Jebao sw2

Aqamai

Mp10

Hydor koralia 420

Sicce 530

Tunze

 

lighting will be more complicated because of the depth. It will really depend on the corals you want to keep and the dimensions vs what the lights specs allow

 

Ai Prime

Nanobox

Mars Aqua

Coral Compulsion Par 38

Kessil

 

In the Hob filter we run filter floss, carbon, and other medias

 

Filter floss - collects particles. Buy it bulk, cut to size, switch out twice a week

Carbon - removes toxins and polishes water I buy it in containers and place it in media bags, it's rinsed weekly and the carbon switched every 2-3 weeks

 

some use purigen in media bags, often when we have phosphate issues or want to control phos we will use phosguard or phosban in small quantities in a media bag

For the hob filter floss, is it ok to use pillow filler? I currently use this on my fresh water canister filter. Really cheap. 

[Clown79]

Ppl do as long as it has no fire retardants.

[Antonio]

Some numbers. 0.25 ammonia, 0.25 nitrite, and 40 nitrate.  Still no alge growth. Test in a couple more days I guess?  The waiting game. Patience my friend. 

[Clown79]

Algae isn't a sign of a cycle starting or ending. This is a notion. Algae develops due to nutrients. It can come on at any time. 

 

People that don't have very high nitrates during/after cycling may not see much if any algae.

 

For cycling:

 

Ammonia will rise and process to 0

Nitrite will rise and process to 0

Nitrates rise and then you do a good waterchange to reduce it.

 

So once the ammonia is at 0, you're pretty much there?

[Antonio]

The ammonia reading is either 0.0 or 0.25. Hard to tell. Nitrite is 0.0. And nitrate is either 80 or 160. I guess water change time. How much should I do?  

 

Also, got a snail shell (no snail) but something sticking out of a pin hole on the side. It goes in every once in a while.   On the left side of the shell in the first picture. 

 

[GregEmmitte]

That's a fan worm

[Clown79]

A 50% waterchange will drop the nitrates by 50%

[Antonio]

Added first fish last weekend. All readings for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate at 0. Still got green algae and some that looks grey. 

 

[Clown79]

Cute clowns.

 

That green algae is  green hair algae. It's an aggressive algae.

 

Your nitrate readings are most likely inaccurate because the algae is using it.

 

Are you testing phosphates because that's a likely culprit for algae.

 

You will need to remove it 

 

- take rock out and scrub with new toothbrush and rinse on SW before returning to tank

 

- do the above and spot treat with 3% peroxide using a syringe, rinse, then return to tank

 

If the rock can't be removed, use tank dedicated tweezers to pull it out, not allowing it to flow in th3 tank or it will spread.

 

You can also spot treat with 3% hydrogen peroxide in tank but do small amounts each time with all water movement off. Leave on for 15 mins before restarting pumps/filters.

 

I've done  this before on water change day. I treat it then go abou4 doing my waterchange.

 

Finding the cause of the nutrients is important. Or it will just continue

 

 

[Antonio]

Green algae  gone. Took the one rock that had it out and scrubed with tooth brush. Took out some of the polyps that came on my first rocks, but no more algae. Added a cleaner shrimp. He molted the first night in the tank ( I think Sept. 9). He molted again last night. Checked ammonia, nitrate and nitrate, all are 0. The sg 1.024 and pH 8.2. Hopefully he is ok.  Do you all leave the shrimp shell in the tank for it to get eaten?  I've read mixed info on this.

One of the hermits took over a snail shell. Crazy hermit. 

Finally put order in for retro fit Nanobox lights from Dave. Once that comes in, time to start the corals. 

 

[Clown79]

I leave the shell in.

 

Do you test ca and alk because those 2 parameters are really important.

 

Did you acclimate the shrimp?

[Antonio]

10 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

I leave the shell in.

 

Do you test ca and alk because those 2 parameters are really important.

 

Did you acclimate the shrimp?

I do not test ca and alk,but will get kits.  Are the ones below any good?  Shrimp was acclimated for about 4 hours. Closed bag floating in tank water for 15 mins, then clipped open on top of water and every 10 mins added small amounts of tank water.