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Innovative Marine Aquariums

Aqua One 35 Nano Tank


DominicDuffy

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  • 3 weeks later...

Might sound stupid but just added a bag of carbon and clearmax to tank to clear water and lower phosphates. Does anyone know if it has to be tanker of paper/card bag or does it allow water to flow through it.

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I have just re aquascaped my live rock and removed a little whilst breaking it up. Has anyone experienced diatoms again after doing this because I think I’m starting to get a little on sand. Here’s my new rock work 

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After the mess on I have had with looking after and rehoming the ritteri anemone I got intouch with the person who I bought it off and he has recommended that t5 bulbs are used instead of led as this type of anemone prefers t5 over led due to the spectrum. I have just bought the fixture and bulbs and hopefully this will regain full held of the anemone. He told me that he has done this before and will 100% work.

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30 minutes ago, DominicDuffy said:

After the mess on I have had with looking after and rehoming the ritteri anemone I got intouch with the person who I bought it off and he has recommended that t5 bulbs are used instead of led as this type of anemone prefers t5 over led due to the spectrum. I have just bought the fixture and bulbs and hopefully this will regain full held of the anemone. He told me that he has done this before and will 100% work.

I can't say for certain that's 100% true. 

 

T5 is a great lighting option but most leds cn be adjusted to certain spectrums.

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Yes but for the price the t5 unit I have bought can hold three 8w tubes which will be 12000k whites. How many blue and white bulbs would you recommend putting in it. 2 blue and 1 white or 2 whites and 1 blue. Plus it’s an improvement to the one I have got now which is 6000k. Also he told me that the ai prime is unsuitable for this type of anemone.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I have just bought 11 new coral frags yesterday and have placed them all on the sand bed. How long should I keep them on the sand bed and when should I start placing them on the live rock. These are the corals I have bought and they all seem to be doing well.

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I would say give them a few days in any new spot and monitor them closely. Judging by their reactions (polyp extention, retraction, stretching for light, etc) they will tell you whether or not to move them.

 

But first, do some research and find out the specific requirements for each coral, before moving them.

 

post pics so we can see how they’re doing?

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So would you suggest leaving at bottom for now to see how they do then start to move them where I think will be best for there flow and light requirements. They all seem to be fine at the bottom. But would prefer them mostly on live rock. My live rock keeps tumbling of when I accidentally tap it with my hand. Is there anyways of gluing the rocks together whilst in the tank without the glue poisoning the fish of corals.

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I have also noticed my temp was out by a bit. It was set at 75 Fahrenheit but now I have changed it to 79 Fahrenheit. This is why I think some of my acans weren’t fully opening when I first got them. I’ll upload some pictures of them now.

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75 is fine for acans, they were probably just adjusting. I usually leave my corals on the sand bed for a week or two and slowly move them up. If they get shocked by light, the effects usually don't show up until days or weeks later depending on the type of coral.

 

If you still have that nem, if he goes for a walk and touches the coral, they could get stung and die. I wouldn't permanently add them anywhere unless that nem has stopped moving and found a happy spot. Even then, sometimes nems just move.  

 

They make underwater epoxy putty but it is difficult to work with to be honest. I would do a little at a time over a long period to adhere the rocks because I have had it effect pH even though some brands say they do not. Otherwise just change the scape so the rocks don't tumble. If your rock goes for a tumble when you have corals on it, they might land upside down in the sand, no good.

 

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/two-little-fishies-aquastik-underwater-epoxy-putty.html

 

 

 

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I have turned the heater down to 24 degrees again because when I put it on 26 the acan has retracted. I wish I could set at 25 but my heater goes up in 2 degrees. Will 24 degrees Celsius 75 farenhiet be good enough for them.

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Constantly changing the temp will further the length in time acclimation time. 

 

It takes them days, sometimes over a week to get accustomed to a new environment.

 

78-80 is the common temp ppl keep. 

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Iv just used the Nyos phosphate test kit and I’m getting zero ppm for phosphate. I know that sounds impossble to achieve but I thinks it’s because of the fluval clearmax I have used which states each back does up to 100l and my tank is 35l. I would reduce amount of clearmax but they are in sealed bags.

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However, phosphates are at around 5ppm and keep rising each week to around 20ppm. However, I think this is because I used a toothbrush to remove hair algea last week. After removing the hair algae I still have a little bit growing on my live rock still. How can I still have algea when my phosphates and nitrates are pretty low.

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