DominicDuffy Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 Do you think the custom caddy 20 would fit my tank ? Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Does anyone know what type of algae this is. It’s like fur on the rocks but doesn’t grow on sand or glass. Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Might sound stupid but just added a bag of carbon and clearmax to tank to clear water and lower phosphates. Does anyone know if it has to be tanker of paper/card bag or does it allow water to flow through it. Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 I have just re aquascaped my live rock and removed a little whilst breaking it up. Has anyone experienced diatoms again after doing this because I think I’m starting to get a little on sand. Here’s my new rock work 1 Quote Link to comment
Clown79 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 If there was a lot of detritus disturbed or sand disturbed, diatoms or other algae may develop Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Hopefully it’s just diatoms but could cyano come back even when using gfo Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 After the mess on I have had with looking after and rehoming the ritteri anemone I got intouch with the person who I bought it off and he has recommended that t5 bulbs are used instead of led as this type of anemone prefers t5 over led due to the spectrum. I have just bought the fixture and bulbs and hopefully this will regain full held of the anemone. He told me that he has done this before and will 100% work. Quote Link to comment
Clown79 Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 30 minutes ago, DominicDuffy said: After the mess on I have had with looking after and rehoming the ritteri anemone I got intouch with the person who I bought it off and he has recommended that t5 bulbs are used instead of led as this type of anemone prefers t5 over led due to the spectrum. I have just bought the fixture and bulbs and hopefully this will regain full held of the anemone. He told me that he has done this before and will 100% work. I can't say for certain that's 100% true. T5 is a great lighting option but most leds cn be adjusted to certain spectrums. Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Yes but for the price the t5 unit I have bought can hold three 8w tubes which will be 12000k whites. How many blue and white bulbs would you recommend putting in it. 2 blue and 1 white or 2 whites and 1 blue. Plus it’s an improvement to the one I have got now which is 6000k. Also he told me that the ai prime is unsuitable for this type of anemone. Quote Link to comment
Clown79 Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 I don't know what bulbs you should use. Depends on the spectrum you want. Those bulbs will need replacing every 6-8 months. Quote Link to comment
Clown79 Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 To get more answers to your questions, you should start a thread on your lighting questions seperately from this thread. You will get more help that way Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 Alright thanks Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 I have just bought 11 new coral frags yesterday and have placed them all on the sand bed. How long should I keep them on the sand bed and when should I start placing them on the live rock. These are the corals I have bought and they all seem to be doing well. Quote Link to comment
samnaz Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 I would say give them a few days in any new spot and monitor them closely. Judging by their reactions (polyp extention, retraction, stretching for light, etc) they will tell you whether or not to move them. But first, do some research and find out the specific requirements for each coral, before moving them. post pics so we can see how they’re doing? Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 So would you suggest leaving at bottom for now to see how they do then start to move them where I think will be best for there flow and light requirements. They all seem to be fine at the bottom. But would prefer them mostly on live rock. My live rock keeps tumbling of when I accidentally tap it with my hand. Is there anyways of gluing the rocks together whilst in the tank without the glue poisoning the fish of corals. Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 I have also noticed my temp was out by a bit. It was set at 75 Fahrenheit but now I have changed it to 79 Fahrenheit. This is why I think some of my acans weren’t fully opening when I first got them. I’ll upload some pictures of them now. Quote Link to comment
Tamberav Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 75 is fine for acans, they were probably just adjusting. I usually leave my corals on the sand bed for a week or two and slowly move them up. If they get shocked by light, the effects usually don't show up until days or weeks later depending on the type of coral. If you still have that nem, if he goes for a walk and touches the coral, they could get stung and die. I wouldn't permanently add them anywhere unless that nem has stopped moving and found a happy spot. Even then, sometimes nems just move. They make underwater epoxy putty but it is difficult to work with to be honest. I would do a little at a time over a long period to adhere the rocks because I have had it effect pH even though some brands say they do not. Otherwise just change the scape so the rocks don't tumble. If your rock goes for a tumble when you have corals on it, they might land upside down in the sand, no good. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/two-little-fishies-aquastik-underwater-epoxy-putty.html Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 I have turned the heater down to 24 degrees again because when I put it on 26 the acan has retracted. I wish I could set at 25 but my heater goes up in 2 degrees. Will 24 degrees Celsius 75 farenhiet be good enough for them. Quote Link to comment
Clown79 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Constantly changing the temp will further the length in time acclimation time. It takes them days, sometimes over a week to get accustomed to a new environment. 78-80 is the common temp ppl keep. Quote Link to comment
JcSH2o Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 I keep mine steady at 26°, so far so good. Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 I have just bought a Nyos Phosphate test kit today, are they any good ? Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 Iv just used the Nyos phosphate test kit and I’m getting zero ppm for phosphate. I know that sounds impossble to achieve but I thinks it’s because of the fluval clearmax I have used which states each back does up to 100l and my tank is 35l. I would reduce amount of clearmax but they are in sealed bags. Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 24, 2018 Author Share Posted February 24, 2018 Just did a water change and when the acan coral has retracted its polyps I have seen these growing on the back of it. Are these another 2 heads growing ? Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 Did a water change today and restested my water with the Nyos Phosphate test kit and I’m getting a reading of 0.025ppm of phosphate. Quote Link to comment
DominicDuffy Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 However, phosphates are at around 5ppm and keep rising each week to around 20ppm. However, I think this is because I used a toothbrush to remove hair algea last week. After removing the hair algae I still have a little bit growing on my live rock still. How can I still have algea when my phosphates and nitrates are pretty low. Quote Link to comment
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