Aqua One 35 Nano Tank

[Tamberav]

10 minutes ago, DominicDuffy said:

Yeah my hose is pretty long however I think a lot of the pressure is being lossed due to the adaptor. I'm going to buy some teflon/plumbers take today and see if that helps. I'm currently making rodi water at the minutes even though no waste and little rodi water is be produced. Is it alright to keep using the rodi system even though no waste is being produced ? TDS is 0 still

 

I would not as my worry is it would damage your membrane and those are expensive. It may also be wasting your DI resin as the membrane requires a certain amount of pressure to work properly. If the membrane gets damaged, you could still get 0 TDS but it would basically be eating up your DI resin fast and become expensive fast. 

 

Pressure is important, they even sell booster pumps for people who can't get enough out of their pipes/connections.

 

Maybe grab a super short hose at the hardware store too... a long hose would lower the pressure as well and may also cause problems. 

 

 

They also make parts to hook it up under your sink to the cold water line or to washer lines, ect.

[Clown79]

If no waste is being produced something isn't set up correctly.

 

Why did you disconnect it all to flush the system? You just usually run the system for an hour upon initial use which flushes everything.

 

Your adaptor may be leaking because maybe it Doesn't fit correctly.

Have you considered trying to use it on your sink?

[DominicDuffy]

If just fixed the leak on the garden tap with plumbers tape and rodi production has increased however there is still no waste. Do I just remove the ro membrane state and rodi to flush it again. Won't it be filled with water now

[DominicDuffy]

I think it is the flow restrictor as soon as I remove it there is waste water being produced or is this because it is easier to c9me out of the waste rather then being pushed through the membrane when there is a pressure release

[Tamberav]

21 minutes ago, DominicDuffy said:

I think it is the flow restrictor as soon as I remove it there is waste water being produced or is this because it is easier to c9me out of the waste rather then being pushed through the membrane when there is a pressure release

 

Could be there isn't enough pressure since you have it attached to a hose. Without a pressure gage.. Who knows? 

 

Contact where you bought it from or hook it up to your sink and try that. I don't know if anyone using a hose. 

[DominicDuffy]

I would put it to my sink but it doesn't have a thread or anything to be attached too. If just been in contact with the manufacture and they are assisting me through the issue.

[Clown79]

To me, no waste production means you have set something up improperly.

It happened to another person who took apart their rodi.

 

Still not sure why you took it apart to flush it.

 

Once again. It only needs to be flushed for an hr prior to use.

 

You really need to spend the time setting up different threads for different problems - you'd get more help.

[DominicDuffy]

It said on the instructions to remove ro and di stage to flush for 15 mins. Then run the system for 30 mins. The system came fully assembled so there was nothing really I could do wrong.

[Tamberav]

Did you buy a short hose? Water loses pressure the farther it travels. I bought a piece to screw into my cold water under the sink. This is an option as well if your pipes are similar. Looks just like this
 

[DominicDuffy]

I cut my hoses down but still no good

[Clown79]

Try doing a thread on this subject. More ppl will reply.

[Lula_Mae]

On 2/24/2018 at 10:09 PM, DominicDuffy said:

My tank is stable and my clowns are doing fine aswell as the corals. I just had a bit of green hair algae on my rock and once I removed it the other day I tried to siphon most of it out. However, because I didn’t get all of it, it has broken down I believe and increased nitrates. Also all of my corals are fully open now and I’m planning on removing from plugs next week and glueing to the rock. Iv been checked kh, calcium, ph, magnesium, nitrates and phosphates daily for the last week and all have been stable for that time period. The only day which I had a problem was when I removed the hair algae because the day after I retested my water and my nitrates went from 5ppm to about 20ppm. At the moment they are back down to 5ppm as I did a 75% water change and I will recheck in the tommorow to see if they are staying that way. Each time I do a water change I use a turkey blaster to blow debris of rocks and in sump, vacuum the sand and wash and replace filter floss. I also change filter floss every few days once it starts the change colour. I’m not sure why I would need to rehome my clowns when my tank is fully cycled and I’m always able to lower nitrates if they go high with a water change. I’m just looking for another method to keeping my nitrates low because I don’t really want to be doing loads of water changes. However, i will always do a water change if nitrates go above 10ppm. Also nitrates below 20ppm wouldn’t hurt the fish anyways. My nitrates arnt at zero so the NOPOX will work. I retested today and they where at 0.025ppm. But will probably be high as the algae is using it up.

Two clowns is a massive bioload for 7-8ish gallons. Some would say that's too small for even one clown. Might be better to get rid of one or both and instead get a small goby or a tailspot blenny. Don't use NOPOX.

 

On 2/24/2018 at 11:52 PM, DominicDuffy said:

I probably won’t need to nopox but there’s no harm in using it to reduce water changes. If I didn’t use nopox the nitrates would keep rising resulting in the need for a water change. What would be the point in the hobby if I wasn’t to have any fish. Also I have had cyano because of this before. But if it did come again I’d use chemiclean and stop using the nopox again. This is the only time Iv really needed to do loads of water changes because of me trying to remove the algae. Next time I’m just gonna leave it and try find the cause instead of removing it and letting it break down that way. The main reason i have decided to use nopox again is because I have a 25l water container and it takes me half an hour to get to the LFS to refill my container with saltwater and every time I do a water change I use 15l of this water because I like doing a 50% water change. This means I have to do a 10l water change the week after. However, to prevent all of this I’m planning on getting a RODI system and start making my own water very soon.

Don't use NOPOX, don't use Chemiclean, and don't use the thing you're adding to get rid of phosphates. Change your source water to one with 0 TDS (I see you've gotten an rodi, so well done on that) and it will make a huge difference, as will reducing your bioload.

 

On 4/6/2018 at 10:22 PM, DominicDuffy said:

Can anyone help me I'm currently struggling with a nitrates problem every week I do a 50% water change and my nitrates drop from 10ppm to 5ppm. Then every week they 're rising to 10ppm again. Is there any way I can keep my nitrates at a constant level because as they nitrates rise my corals are stressing out.

Nitrates are going to rise between water changes. That's how water chemistry works. I doubt that's what's stressing the corals out, are you still using any of those chemicals?

 

7 hours ago, DominicDuffy said:

I cut my hoses down but still no good

Did you cut the hoses on your rodi unit? Because I'm pretty sure that's not what was meant... She meant to get a shorter water hose/garden hose so you don't lose so much pressure as the water travels through. If you've cut the hoses on your rodi, you may have just made things more difficult.

 

Clown and Tamberav have both patiently given you excellent advice and yet you're still reluctant to follow it. Bless. Hope you get your rodi straightened out.

[Franchi90]

Im looking to getting this tank as my first marine tank.

 

Thanks to this thread alone, because of all dominics mistakes i know exactly what not to do.

[DominicDuffy]

Glad I could help 😂

[DominicDuffy]

If just changed over from api test kits to Salifert and I'm getting much better readings than before. The issue I am currently having is as I said before I was having algae issues so I bought an rodi system. I know make my own salt and rodi water and if still got hair algae and a green algae on my rock and i also have what I believe is dinoflagelates growing on my sand bed. My phosphate is 0.025. Another issue I have is that my parameter are all fine or there abouts and my goniapora and scans aren't really opening and never have. Also recently one of my zoas grew a new head and one of them is not opening now. Here are my parameters

[Lula_Mae]

13 minutes ago, DominicDuffy said:

If just changed over from api test kits to Salifert and I'm getting much better readings than before. The issue I am currently having is as I said before I was having algae issues so I bought an rodi system. I know make my own salt and rodi water and if still got hair algae and a green algae on my rock and i also have what I believe is dinoflagelates growing on my sand bed. My phosphate is 0.025. Another issue I have is that my parameter are all fine or there abouts and my goniapora and scans aren't really opening and never have. Also recently one of my zoas grew a new head and one of them is not opening now. Here are my parameters

How many fish do you have and how often do you feed? Phosphorus and nitrate can be taken up by the algae which would make your readings artificially low. Also autocorrect has changed some of your words so it doesn't make as much sense lol. If your levels of those are too low, some corals react badly. 

[DominicDuffy]

I have 2 clowns and I fees. a small amount every three days. I'm also running rowaphos

In a media bag

[DominicDuffy]

Finally upgraded my lighting to an ai prime hd. Also ended up removing the hob refugium as I have a rodi system now so it is easier to do water changes. However, I am suffering with dinoflagelates and hair algae. I added a clean up crew so all of the hair algae is nearly gone. I'm also now running rowaphos in a media bag and im hoping to install a protein skimmer and media reactor soon. Does anyone have any advise on getting rid of dinoflagelates ?

[Clown79]

Dino's are the most difficult to get rid of. 

 

I've read that peroxide dosing works.

[DominicDuffy]

Can hydrogen peroxide be used without a skimmer and I know if had them for ages now I blow the sand bit in a day they are back.

[DominicDuffy]

Could I possibly have dinos due to have 0 phosphates. Because when I measure phosphate it's always zero. However, I have GHA aswell consuming the phosphate and I run gfo in a media reactor.

[Clown79]

Are you sure its dino's?

[DominicDuffy]

I'm pretty sure it is, it's brown has bubbles in it and is like stringy of the sand bed. I also believe this could be the cause of my coral not opening properly due to the toxin dinos release

[DominicDuffy]

If covered my whole tank up and I'm doing a three day blackout to see what is happening iv also purchased a marine pure plate to increase area for beneficial bacteria to populate

[Clown79]

I'm not sure how effective black out are on dino's.

 

It's one of the hardest things to get rid of. There is no quick or easy fix to dino's.