New NanoBox LED Color : Mint

[DaveFason]

10 hours ago, vangvace said:

Kinda curious how the old lime would look on its own spectrum

 

Also looks very good. The one thing the lime "lacks" is the small peak on the lower-mid 400nm range that the mint color does. 

 

@markalot uses lime over his tank. 

[gone_PHiSHin]

Dave, i got my mini tide plus m right around january 1st, 2017.  it probably has lime correct?

[DaveFason]

16 minutes ago, gone_PHiSHin said:

Dave, i got my mini tide plus m right around january 1st, 2017.  it probably has lime correct?

No, you have mint.

[basser1]

Sorry to bump this thread but I've been off the forum a few months now. I was wondering if the retro I bought in Dec. has the mint or lime?

[DaveFason]

Mint

[HarryPotter]

6 minutes ago, DaveFason said:

Mint

 

You bastard you! 

[CrazyEyes]

Dave I have a few questions if you don't mind answering. First, what is the dimensions of the pucks? Second, what are the forward volts of each channel at 0.7A? Lastly, the pucks you are currently selling on your site, the V3.1, these are the ones with the mint correct? 

[DaveFason]

On 11/4/2017 at 11:45 PM, CrazyEyes said:

Dave I have a few questions if you don't mind answering. First, what is the dimensions of the pucks? Second, what are the forward volts of each channel at 0.7A? Lastly, the pucks you are currently selling on your site, the V3.1, these are the ones with the mint correct? 

~ 1.5"x2"

.7A - All channels? I prefer... 1A royal, .350 white, .7 Blue, .5 violet, .350 mint - Would this work?

Yes, current pucks Mint on the website. 

 

-Dave

[Aquius]

Hi Dave... I am looking to build myself a custom hybrid setup with the 5 channel pucks that have the moonlight feature. At 100%, how much current does each respective channel pull? What I am trying to figure out is how many pucks I can parallel off a Meanwell 5 channel board and LDD drivers.

 

I am setting up an SCA 150 gallon and would like to have an “array” of your emitter pucks for different zones of the tank. I am hoping this would give me the ability to up the PAR at the bottom of the tank in one zone, and decrease the PAR in another. What I do not want to do is have too many pucks hooked up to one board and end up frying a channel…

 

Thanks for the help. 

[DaveFason]

37 minutes ago, Aquius said:

Hi Dave... I am looking to build myself a custom hybrid setup with the 5 channel pucks that have the moonlight feature. At 100%, how much current does each respective channel pull? What I am trying to figure out is how many pucks I can parallel off a Meanwell 5 channel board and LDD drivers.

 

I am setting up an SCA 150 gallon and would like to have an “array” of your emitter pucks for different zones of the tank. I am hoping this would give me the ability to up the PAR at the bottom of the tank in one zone, and decrease the PAR in another. What I do not want to do is have too many pucks hooked up to one board and end up frying a channel…

 

Thanks for the help. 

Shoot me an email. david@nanoboxreef.com 

 

[Aquius]

4 hours ago, DaveFason said:

Shoot me an email. david@nanoboxreef.com 

 

Email sent.

 

And don't freak out... 

[tonydahomie]

So excited to get my new tide with the mint channel..

On my old duo I was running white / lime at 30% only during midday .. do you suggest the same for mint?

[DaveFason]

21 hours ago, tonydahomie said:

So excited to get my new tide with the mint channel..

On my old duo I was running white / lime at 30% only during midday .. do you suggest the same for mint?

Yes. I would adjust to you liking of spectrum. 

 

-Dave

[CrazyEyes]

Another quick question, do you think a 12" x 7.5" heatsink will be large enough to passively cool one of these pucks? 

[DaveFason]

11 hours ago, CrazyEyes said:

Another quick question, do you think a 12" x 7.5" heatsink will be large enough to passively cool one of these pucks? 

Sure will be! 

-Dave

[Runnwild]

Dave,

 

Been following this thread and tour builds for a while now. I'm more of a DIY type and while I've found a lot of information, a few things I haven't found or have accidentally skimmed past (been known to do that). For each channel, what is the max forward voltage & amps? What is the recommended voltage and amps? I could possibly go looking into every diode spec, just figured I'd ask you first ?.

 

Also, what are your settings for the channels when not using white? Are you running like the RB, Cyan & violets on same percentages and ramp times or are they all different?

 

Derek

[Runnwild]

9 minutes ago, Runnwild said:

Dave,

 

Been following this thread and tour builds for a while now. I'm more of a DIY type and while I've found a lot of information, a few things I haven't found or have accidentally skimmed past (been known to do that). For each channel, what is the max forward voltage & amps? What is the recommended voltage and amps? I could possibly go looking into every diode spec, just figured I'd ask you first ?.

 

Also, what are your settings for the channels when not using white? Are you running like the RB, Cyan & violets on same percentages and ramp times or are they all different?

 

Derek

Just to clarify, I have seen the "Standard" schedule that was posted a few days ago. I'm asking about scheduling w/o using whites.

[DaveFason]

On 1/11/2018 at 2:53 PM, Runnwild said:

Dave,

 

Been following this thread and tour builds for a while now. I'm more of a DIY type and while I've found a lot of information, a few things I haven't found or have accidentally skimmed past (been known to do that). For each channel, what is the max forward voltage & amps? What is the recommended voltage and amps? I could possibly go looking into every diode spec, just figured I'd ask you first ?.

 

Also, what are your settings for the channels when not using white? Are you running like the RB, Cyan & violets on same percentages and ramp times or are they all different?

 

Derek

Derek - It depends on how you run them. But I run 700mA max and leave whites at 350mA max. If you are using a single puck run a 24v PS and running more than two run a 48v. Makes life easier. I run the mints from 30-50%. They do not effect the PAR much. 

[pgrVII]

17 minutes ago, DaveFason said:

Derek - It depends on how you run them. But I run 700mA max and leave whites at 350mA max. If you are using a single puck run a 24v PS and running more than two run a 48v. Makes life easier. I run the mints from 30-50%. They do not effect the PAR much. 

So only run the mints at 30-50% I had them up with the blues ?

[DaveFason]

2 hours ago, pgrVII said:

So only run the mints at 30-50% I had them up with the blues ?

That sir is a little aggressive.

[pgrVII]

On 1/15/2018 at 1:40 PM, DaveFason said:

That sir is a little aggressive.

I was going off the pic posted on the first photo of your settings with it,but that mayve been for photo purposes only ?

I have them ramped down to 105 now on the storm controller. 

[Acm816]

David can you sure how to Wire and control Mint LED on nanobox duo M

[Andreww]

Hey Dave what is the reason for ditching the white? I mean there’s no scientific data to show mint or lime is better than white, however , it is a good selling point I understand that.

 

Do you like a blue tank look ? From what I’m seeing , the lime/mint gives out a yellow tinge.

Ofcourse it blends well, white does too.

 

But take a look for example at GHL Mitras LX7, they use warm white and cool white LED’s in their fixtures. Is that something that could be done with your fixtures?

I’m sure it’s possible. For the record, I do NOT own a GHL light fixture. 

 

Warm white seems like a more desirable white than cool white that so many brands of LED’s incorporate in their fixtures nowadays.

 

Again, I’m not bashing the mint/lime led’s I’m just trying to understand their purpose other than : nanobox is the only one offering that particular LED.

 

Take a look at David Saxby’s 2017 reef tank video on YouTube with whites cranked up over 50% during the intense phase of the schedule and tell me the tank doesn’t look the part. Dare I say the best out there? All this on Hydra 52’s.

 

Maybe we are just trying to over complicate things....just maybe. Your tank looks great though??

[LogistcalReefer]

13 minutes ago, Andreww said:

Hey Dave what is the reason for ditching the white? I mean there’s no scientific data to show mint or lime is better than white, however , it is a good selling point I understand that.

 

Do you like a blue tank look ? From what I’m seeing , the lime/mint gives out a yellow tinge.

Ofcourse it blends well, white does too.

 

But take a look for example at GHL Mitras LX7, they use warm white and cool white LED’s in their fixtures. Is that something that could be done with your fixtures?

I’m sure it’s possible. For the record, I do NOT own a GHL light fixture. 

 

Warm white seems like a more desirable white than cool white that so many brands of LED’s incorporate in their fixtures nowadays.

 

Again, I’m not bashing the mint/lime led’s I’m just trying to understand their purpose other than : nanobox is the only one offering that particular LED.

 

Take a look at David Saxby’s 2017 reef tank video on YouTube with whites cranked up over 50% during the intense phase of the schedule and tell me the tank doesn’t look the part. Dare I say the best out there? All this on Hydra 52’s.

 

Maybe we are just trying to over complicate things....just maybe. Your tank looks great though??

I think the point of mint is it gives control, get a brighter tank, without adding in so much red spectrum.  I think having both white and mint/lime is the way to go.  gives flexiblity.

[mitten_reef]

4 hours ago, Acm816 said:

David can you sure how to Wire and control Mint LED on nanobox duo M

If you don’t have an array that has mint already on it, there’s not really an easy way to add mint.