Low pH

[ardab]

Hi everyone,

 

I know that there are many topics about pH of reef aquariums, however I am in a situation where I am not sure what to do next. 

 

Here is the deal; I have 100lt nano aquarium with Bubble Magus Nac QQ skimmer, 10kg of live sand, 5kg of live rock, 2 leather corals, one green bubble anemone, Xenia, Zoas and GFPs in my tank. The tank has been running for about 7 months now. The nitrate level is about 20mg/l, which I started dosing votka yesterday to lower it, and phosphate is about 0 (I use rowaphos in filter bags). However, I have a ph meter in my lab and can do regular pH check ups, yet the measurements is always at 7.79-7.80 

 

Unfortunately I have no kH, Ca and Mg tests yet, however I will do get them asap. Therefore, I dont want to add calcium hydoxide or sodium carbonate to increase the pH since I dont know my kH or Ca levels. The reason why I am making this topic is because I experience some growth problems especially in GFP and some zoas. Also my bubble seems not liking my lighting and wandering around the aquarium quite a lot (I use marinereef led). 

 

Do you think I should slowly increase the pH regardless of knowing the kH ? 

 

Thanks in advance for the answers! 

[mbarton2010]

No. Don't chase pH. 

[seabass]

The pH level is a bit low, but I agree.  I wouldn't try to buffer for pH.  However, testing pH can reveal CO2 issues.  Sometimes some fresh air in the room will raise pH.  You can use kalkwasser to increase pH, but like you said, it's best to know your tank's parameters prior to dosing anything.

 

Your corals and anemone might be reacting to other problems (lack of phosphate, alkalinity swings, etc).  It's best to get a more complete picture of what's going on, before attempting corrections.

 

I suggest water changes to lower nitrate versus carbon dosing.  Especially for a nano tank, where large percentage water changes are feasible.  Also, in order for carbon dosing to work, your tank needs some phosphate (as the bacteria consume both nutrients).

 

 

[ardab]

10 hours ago, seabass said:

The pH level is a bit low, but I agree.  I wouldn't try to buffer for pH.  However, testing pH can reveal CO2 issues.  Sometimes some fresh air in the room will raise pH.  You can use kalkwasser to increase pH, but like you said, it's best to know your tank's parameters prior to dosing anything.

 

Your corals and anemone might be reacting to other problems (lack of phosphate, alkalinity swings, etc).  It's best to get a more complete picture of what's going on, before attempting corrections.

 

I suggest water changes to lower nitrate versus carbon dosing.  Especially for a nano tank, where large percentage water changes are feasible.  Also, in order for carbon dosing to work, your tank needs some phosphate (as the bacteria consume both nutrients).

 

 

 

Great! Thank you very much indeed for your informative reply my friend. I appreciate. I will do a 15lt change tomorrow to reduce the Nitrate, however I doubt that I have 0 phosphate cause I sometimes do overfeed my fish, hence the nitrate and possibly some phosphate. I will get the tests asap to be sure whats going on in there. Also, I have a bit problem about formation of brown/yellowish stuff on sands, even on leather coral till it changes its skin, rocks etc. and I have no idea what it is. 

 

Then at this point I will change the water and wait till I get the tests. I'll post here soon ! 

[SaltyBuddha]

My PH was a little low at 7.8 in the mornings. I raised my powerhead to increase surface movement which in turn increases oxygenation within the tank. Now my PH is about 8.1 in the mornings.

 

Also, note that your PH will be lower in the morning that at the end of your light cycle. This is completely normal but the swing can be reduced with a refugium set at an alternate light cycle.

[ardab]

3 hours ago, SaltyBuddha said:

My PH was a little low at 7.8 in the mornings. I raised my powerhead to increase surface movement which in turn increases oxygenation within the tank. Now my PH is about 8.1 in the mornings.

 

Also, note that your PH will be lower in the morning that at the end of your light cycle. This is completely normal but the swing can be reduced with a refugium set at an alternate light cycle.

I can do another measurement from the water sample at nights to see apporx what is the level of pH at evenings. I am about to change some water today and I did a measurement to the freshly prepared water (1.024 salinity) and gave me 8.30 exact pH, which is great. So hopefully with this water change my pH will go a bit higher. I wont change too much to cause any stress though, just 15% should be enough. 

 

Thanks for the replies! Appreciated. 

[Clown79]

I agree. Waterchanges should be sufficient enough to lower the nitrates. Its preferable to carbon dosing in small tanks.

 

To maintain lower levels you will needd o go through your maintenance routine, feeding etc to determine the cause and correct it.

 

Ph fluctuates all day long, its effected by photosynthesis so you need to test at the same time of day after the lights have been on for a while.

 

Testing alk is very important. It works with ph. Corals also use it.

 

 alk, ca, and mag need weekly monitoring. 

[ardab]

52 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

I agree. Waterchanges should be sufficient enough to lower the nitrates. Its preferable to carbon dosing in small tanks.

 

To maintain lower levels you will needd o go through your maintenance routine, feeding etc to determine the cause and correct it.

 

Ph fluctuates all day long, its effected by photosynthesis so you need to test at the same time of day after the lights have been on for a while.

 

Testing alk is very important. It works with ph. Corals also use it.

 

 alk, ca, and mag need weekly monitoring. 

 

I did a water change yesterday and cleaned up the back sump which was really dirty. I thought it would decrease the Nitrate amount, however todays test showed 20mg/l again. I will get Salifert tests next week to be sure of accuracy because I am not completely satisfied with the test I am using. My Ps is collecting very good today since I cleaned that one up as well, however there are bubbles everywhere and gets into the main tank as well which makes me feel very sad! I dont know how to block that micro-bubble problem. I think soon I'll be heading to Tunze 9004 for more efficiency and less noise from Bubble magus Nacqq. 

 

Also, one last question; my bubble anemone seems to hide under rocks or escapes to areas where the light is very low and it doesnt open up very hugely. Is this normal ? My zoa and leather corals seem fine today as well as the GFPs. 

[Clown79]

Depending on waterchange size, will depend on the drop in nutrient level. 

 

The bubbles, it may just be the pump, also sometimes after cleaning them there are microbubbles.

 

What test kit are you using?

 

Lets go through a few questions to see if we can determine a cause for nitrates.

 

1. What are you feeding and how much/often

 

2. What water are you using

 

3. Do you vacuum sand and use turkey baster on rocks

 

4. Filteration method

 

5. Do you use filter sponges, floss or socks

 

6. any other media used in filter

[ardab]

6 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Depending on waterchange size, will depend on the drop in nutrient level. 

 

The bubbles, it may just be the pump, also sometimes after cleaning them there are microbubbles.

 

What test kit are you using?

 

Lets go through a few questions to see if we can determine a cause for nitrates.

 

1. What are you feeding and how much/often

 

2. What water are you using

 

3. Do you vacuum sand and use turkey baster on rocks

 

4. Filteration method

 

5. Do you use filter sponges, floss or socks

 

6. any other media used in filter

 

Hi all! Quick update; a friend of mine did all the tests for me with Salifert, and here are the results. 

 

pH 7.8

kH 7.3

Ca 365

Mg 1275

Nitrate 0.50ppm

 

Earlier I was using Tropical brand nitrate test and it was giving me 20mg/l of nitrate; however I want to believe that Salifert is more accurate and correct in this sense. I think the problem I have (brown/yellowish stuff on glasses and rocks) is due to kH levels which I aim to increase to 9 in time, as well as Ca to 430-450. I am using BM NacQQ as a skimmer, RowaPhos for phosphate and no other filtration system. I am thinking of getting active carbon and seramics for further filtration. I feed my fish with JBL plankton once a day, and reefroids for the corals twice a week. Tomorrow I will add some photos from my system so that you guys can help me more! I thank you so much. 

[Clown79]

Your ca is low. Your alk is borderline

 

What salt are you using?

 

You have to test the newly mixed salt water and then the tank right after a waterchange to see your starting numbers before any coral consumption.

 

Its best to use a salt that gives you the target numbers you want rather than dosing to those because you will have to test your new salt water every time its mixed and dose it properly or else every time you dose the tank, when you do a waterchange, it will drop, which will cause issues. 

 

The best course of action is stability and dosing to maintain numbers due to coral consumption.

 

 

As for filteration, I use a good carbon like matrix, filter floss, purigen, and small qty of phosguard. 

 

You feeding plankton every day tonthe fish is probably a good cause of high nitrates. 

Feeding a guality pellet is a good idea.

 

Also watch the qty of reef roids because that also adds to nutrients.