Going overboard? (and a coupla random questions)

[thespinningsadhu]

Hey, ya'll! 

 

I'm pretty excited as I'll be getting all the stuff to put in my pico tank tomorrow. I actually ordered the JBJ with the AquaClear 50 to start a second pico -  I mean - why not? I'll have all that extra live sand and other startup stuff. So please, if you have ideas on how I can have two nano reefs but they be completely different, please tell me! 

 

The filtration.... I was googling "filter media order" to see how I needed to set up the 2.5 pico. I'm pretty sure I got it down - I'll have a carbon sponge - so this is the mechanical and chemical in one and will be first. Then I'll have a crap ton of ceramic rings next that will be nestled around the heater and powerhead/pump. Then I have ordered the ChemiPure pouches for nano tanks. Next, of course, in the actual tank part is the live sand and rock. 

 

I'm not sure where to put the ChemiPure - though there aren't many choices. Do I even need it? Do I need to have it and keep it in reserve until an occasion arises in which I will need it? 

 

I will also have the stock filter that comes with the JBJ picotope that I won't need because of the AC50. I was thinking that the JBJ stock one could also go on the 2.5 tank if need be. There's room - or at least there appears there will be based on photos. 

 

Another question: Will the live sand keep until Wednesday when the JBJ picotope and AquaClear 50 filter arrive?

 

Thanks, ya'll. I'm learning so much! 

[DevFishe]

I think figuring out filtration is one of the funnest parts of the hobby. Since your tank is so small and your filter is so big, I'm sure you could take some of the ceramic rings out to make room for the chemipure. But it's completely up to you- there are no steadfast rules, only suggestions. You already have chemical filtration with the carbon pad which will help with the toxins that corals produce, if you added the chemipure it'd help even more with toxins, algae, ect. A lot of people change their filtration a lot once their tank is established based on the needs of their coral and fish.

 

Good luck!

[Clown79]

Most don't use ceramic rings, your rock provides the biological filteration.

 

Chemipure is a carbon a phos reducing media, theres no need for the carbon sponge and sponges aren't advised in reefs as they are nitrate factories.

 

In your filter you use filter floss changed out 2 times a week, the chemipure bag  needs weekly rinsing and replacing more often than claimed(it doesn't last 4 mnths as claimed)

 

As for the pico tanks, you're ltd with 2.5g. No fish can be added to either so you can do small inverts and corals. Corals will depend on lighting you use

[DevFishe]

21 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Most don't use ceramic rings, your rock provides the biological filteration.

 

Chemipure is a carbon a phos reducing media, theres no need for the carbon sponge and sponges aren't advised in reefs as they are nitrate factories.

 

In your filter you use filter floss changed out 2 times a week, the chemipure bag  needs weekly rinsing and replacing more often than claimed(it doesn't last 4 mnths as claimed)

 

As for the pico tanks, you're ltd with 2.5g. No fish can be added to either so you can do small inverts and corals. Corals will depend on lighting you use

Dont think the tank would survive without water changes...

[thespinningsadhu]

1 minute ago, DevFishe said:

Dont think the tank would survive without water changes...

I'll be doing weekly or twice weekly water changes. Still doing research. I'm wondering if I split the 25% water changes up over seven or five days if that would be the same... 

[Mr. Lovestrong]

i have a similar set up and i have had the best success with 90% weekly water changes, every other day reef roid feedings then immediately changing the filter floss, carbon infused filter floss changed 2x a week, chemi-pure nano bag changed monthly. modded aquaclear filter to be a chaetomorpha refugium. 

 

[DevFishe]

For picos I would recommend doing large water changes at least once a week (from everything I've read). Look at your schedule and make realistic goals based on that- for example I am extremely busy so I focus all my maintenance on one day. Consistency is most important, making a realistic maintenance schedule will help you and your tank

[thespinningsadhu]

2 minutes ago, Mr. Lovestrong said:

i have a similar set up and i have had the best success with 90% weekly water changes, every other day reef roid feedings then immediately changing the filter floss, carbon infused filter floss changed 2x a week, chemi-pure nano bag changed monthly. modded aquaclear filter to be a chaetomorpha refugium. 

 

So here's my question: how in the world do you do a 90% water change? If things work out I'll have corals from top to bottom and they will be exposed to air - won't that hurt them or at the very least stress the helloutta them?

[Drewbedo]

3 minutes ago, thespinningsadhu said:

So here's my question: how in the world do you do a 90% water change? If things work out I'll have corals from top to bottom and they will be exposed to air - won't that hurt them or at the very least stress the helloutta them?

The water changes are not all at once. For instance if you have 10 gallons of water in a tank and doing 100% weekly water changes just means taking out 10 gallons and putting back 10 gallons within 7 days time. Whether you do (2) 50% changes or (4) 25% changes is up to you

[Mr. Lovestrong]

4 minutes ago, thespinningsadhu said:

So here's my question: how in the world do you do a 90% water change? If things work out I'll have corals from top to bottom and they will be exposed to air - won't that hurt them or at the very least stress the helloutta them?

they are a little upset when i do that but typically open back up or extend there polyps an hour so after its filled back up with water. corals are exposed to air in the wild also.

[DevFishe]

3 minutes ago, thespinningsadhu said:

So here's my question: how in the world do you do a 90% water change? If things work out I'll have corals from top to bottom and they will be exposed to air - won't that hurt them or at the very least stress the helloutta them?

Corals are fine being out of water for short periods of time- make sure you have fresh saltwater ready before you begin draining. 

[thespinningsadhu]

Okay, so I like the sound of one 90% water change per week. 

 

My other question, however: Won't 90% of the good stuff be sucked out with the water? I can understand doing 25% once a week but 90% seems drastic. 

 

Sorry for the questions, total newb here. 

 

So I set the tank up today. I started a journal over in the journal section. Also a photo. Water's clearer now and I just found a tiny powerhead that will do 200 gph so I ordered that bad boy. It's the same width as the one I have now (that does 48 gph). Quick & stupid question so I don't waste money: when you're looking at dimensions of a product online and it says 1.5 x 1.5 x 2 that's LxWxH, right? That's the norm? Because I need the thing to be 1.5 inches wide so it fits in the hidden part. 

[Mr. Lovestrong]

i have not noticed any detrimental affects from large water changes. you should look up reef jar? i think it is called? 

[DevFishe]

1 minute ago, thespinningsadhu said:

Okay, so I like the sound of one 90% water change per week. 

 

My other question, however: Won't 90% of the good stuff be sucked out with the water? I can understand doing 25% once a week but 90% seems drastic. 

 

Sorry for the questions, total newb here. 

Beneficial bacteria must grow on a surface- most of it is housed in live rock, sand, filter, etc (not suspended in the water). Also, 90% isn't a rule, only a suggestion- I recommend getting an ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kit. Then you'll be able to tell how much water you really need to change  

[thespinningsadhu]

11 minutes ago, DevFishe said:

Beneficial bacteria must grow on a surface- most of it is housed in live rock, sand, filter, etc (not suspended in the water). Also, 90% isn't a rule, only a suggestion- I recommend getting an ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kit. Then you'll be able to tell how much water you really need to change  

The saltwater master test kit is arriving tuesday. 

 

I also got some ammonia drops at the suggestion of the reef shop guy. Should I go ahead and add the drops as directed on the bottle or wait on the kit? I've got the water at correct salinity and temperature and dumped a small bottle of BioSpira in the tank (as directed by the bottle directions). As there aren't any live critters in there pooping don't I need to add some ammonia so the BioSpira has something to work on to get rid of?

 

and @Mr. Lovestrong I've ogled that jar quite a bit already!! 

[DevFishe]

I think the easiest thing you could do is add a little bit of food to the tank and let the bacteria work on that (maybe a pinch of flake food). Afterwards test your water a couple times a week to see where you are in the nitrogen cycle. This process takes a long time so dont stress about it too much, sometimes a month or two. once you have zero ammonia, zero nitrite and a spike in nitrate your tank is cycled. 

 

To answer your first question, you could definitely test ammonia if you wanted to- you could also wait for your big test kit to come. Personally I would wait to test anything for a couple of days or even a week after you put the food in- your first high ammonia readings wont tell you much (you were already expecting them). 

[1891Bro]

43 minutes ago, thespinningsadhu said:

So here's my question: how in the world do you do a 90% water change? If things work out I'll have corals from top to bottom and they will be exposed to air - won't that hurt them or at the very least stress the helloutta them?

@brandon429

dude does %100 wcs, rinses all the sand all while the coral sits on plates. It can be done. 

[Clown79]

100% waterchanges on a pico is common, it won't hurt anything. Your corals being out of water for sjort periods won't effect them either.

 

I personally wouldn't add food for cycling. Thats adding unnecessary nutrients to the tank.

 

If you have dry rock, stick with ammonia and bacteria dosing.

2 hours ago, DevFishe said:

Dont think the tank would survive without water changes...

Thats a given.

I would never recommend not doing weekly waterchanges although there are ppl who have successful reefs who don't