Helpppp please :)

[haleschristine]

Obviously I am new to this but I am completely confused as to what I can actually put in my tank. I started with freshwater and am making the transition but from what I understand the rules are different on stocking. 

 

It is a 10 gallon nano with 10 pounds of live rock as well as live sand. It's been running for about 3  weeks now and I believe it should be done cycling this weekend. Tested today with the below results. 

 

Calcium 420 
Salinity 1.021
Dkh 12/ KH 214.8
Nitrates 10ppm
Phosphate .25 
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 10

 

If done cycling, this weekend I plan to take my water sample to my lfs and have them test as well. I have recently learned the API freshwater test kit works on saltwater but has different color charts. But of course want to double check. If they confirm that everything is good, I would like to begin stocking slowly. Possibly with a snail or crab of some type. 

 

However, I feel I need to develop a long run stock plan prior to purchasing anything. I hope to keep corals mainly, (also, is there a limit with a nano tank? I see some that are loaded) with a few inverts (snails, crabs, etc,-how many would you recommend?) and maybe a fish or two if possible. With my fish-I prefer bright colored and energetic. And maybe a sand sifting sea star if possible ... I really just want a starfish but learned they aren't reef compatible. Any advice on the best stocking ideas?

 

Also if anyone has any ideas on why my coralline algae in the far left rock is turning colors. Please let a girl know. 

 

[docshipwreck]

Have you you been testing consistently to see ammonia rise then fall then nitrates rise? did you only cycle with established live rock? any bacteria supplements?

 

Pictures and angles are sometimes unforgiving but perhaps too much rock for that smaller tank...lots of space for corals but not much for anything to move around in stockwise.

 

Not to sound standoff-ish or unwilling to help but research here and lots of other internety places is worth the time. I'm still new myself  (7 months) but probably spent 6 prior to that here and various other places online just reading and reading and reading and then made some notes and read some more.

 

GOOOOO SLOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWW is all I can 100% assure you advice wise!!

[jeffmr4]

The usual recommendation is 1 to 3 inches of fish per 10 gallons.  Damsels and chromis are pretty fish.  There is not really a limit to corals but adding things does increase your bio-load.  Green star polyps and Pulsing Xenia are two nice beginner corals.  They do grow and spread quickly though and are difficult to remove without removing the rock they are on.  A sand sifting star would starve in a tank that small.  I've gotten them before in a 10 gallon tank but they died.  Sometimes when they die they will bury themselves in the sand.  The coralline on your rock looks pretty.  It can come in a variety of colors and can change while growing.  The tank looks nice.

[Clown79]

Research and a lot and go slow.

 

Testing throughout the cycle is important. Did you see ammonia rise and fall?

 

That does seem like a lot of rocks or its the aquascape. You want space between the back glass and side panels. If those areas can't be cleaned, it will become an issue for detritus buildup.

 

If you are done cycling you need to do a waterchange before adding anything abd determine all is well.

 

As for livestock.

 

In a 10g you want to stock low. 2 clowns would be it and thats because they stick to an area.

 

Corals, there are many. I love xenia and truly they aren't hard to trim or frag. Gsp is not easy to frag imo. 

Leathers like toadstool, frogspawn, hammers, zoanthids are all great.

 

Starfish. Most are very difficult to keep, the easy ones aren't reef safe.

Sandsifters need more food than nanos can provide and then they die.

 

You should check out Liveaquaria.com for nano fish.

 

[seabass]

to Nano-Reef.com.

 

Let me address your parameters.  For corals and inverts, you should keep the specific gravity at 1.025.  This will also affect the other elements (calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels).

 

While not toxic at marine pH levels, nitrite is still too high.  Once it gets above 5 ppm, the ability to process nitrite is reduced.  Do a large water change, or series of water changes to bring nitrite down below 5 ppm.  Then the nitrogen cycle should be able to take care of the rest.

 

Also, the phosphate level is too high.  This will lead to algae and possibly cyano problems down the road.  Phosphate should be between 0.01 and 0.03 ppm.  Note that if you are using and API phosphate test kit, it is incapable of monitoring levels this low.  You'll need to get a low range phosphate test kit like a Hanna ULR Phosphorus Checker, or even a Salifert Phosphate test kit, to properly monitor phosphate.

 

High levels of phosphate will affect coralline algae.  But so will exposure to air.  It could be either.  However, if you get your parameters back in line, it should begin to return.

 

About the amount of rock, that's a matter of preference.  That looks like how everyone used to setup their tanks.  However, today, the trend is to use a little less rock (for the reasons stated above).

 

After you have corrected the parameters, you could introduce a small cleanup crew of carnivores and omnivores (like nassarius and cerith snails, and possibly a scarlet reef hermit crab).  I'd wait on getting herbivorous snails until after you get some algae.

 

A clownfish makes a good colorful fish for a 10 gallon tank.  It probably won't swim around that much, but that's what makes them good inhabitants of small tanks like this.  You could also get a small goby that rest on the bottom, or perches on the rock and coral.

[haleschristine]

Thank you guys for all the advice! I did see the rise in ammonia then it fell and nitrite rose and been slowly declining. I've been testing at home every other day and taking water to lfs on weekends to test. I will definitely do the water change when I get home today. 

 

I have done tons of research but the amount of information out there can get overwhelming. 

 

 

Oh and I used the live rock and fish food. 

 

What would be the best way to lower phosphate?

[seabass]

7 minutes ago, haleschristine said:

What would be the best way to lower phosphate?

Phosphate (and nitrate) can be lowered via water changes.  So a 50% water change will lower the nutrient values by 50% (likewise a 10% water change will lower the levels by 10%).  While effective, this still might not be enough to achieve the target range of 0.01 to 0.03 ppm.  To lower phosphate further, you can use Seachem Phosguard in a media bag, placed in your filter.

[SaltyBuddha]

 

This thread is stickied to the beginner forum. It was a great resource for me when I started to think about stocking. I've found it to be pretty accurate when perusing other forums or info threads on stocking

[haleschristine]

40 minutes ago, SaltyBuddha said:

 

This thread is stickied to the beginner forum. It was a great resource for me when I started to think about stocking. I've found it to be pretty accurate when perusing other forums or info threads on stocking

 

This article is amazing! Thanks for sharing

[Derrick1980]

1 hour ago, haleschristine said:

 

This article is amazing! Thanks for sharing

That is a nice article indeed.  Now I feel like I'm overstocked.  Oh well they seem happy.

[lkoechle]

5 minutes ago, Derrick1980 said:

That is a nice article indeed.  Now I feel like I'm overstocked.  Oh well they seem happy.

because you are overstocked...

[kimberbee]

6 minutes ago, lkoechle said:

because you are overstocked...

And he wonders why he has algae issues... 

[Clown79]

27 minutes ago, Derrick1980 said:

That is a nice article indeed.  Now I feel like I'm overstocked.  Oh well they seem happy.

You think they are happy. They aren't

 

The conditions of the tank as well as overstocking is leading them to aggression and stress...we've all already told you that.

 

Haleschristine- 

I would definitely slowly increase your salinity to 1.025 or 1.026. You ca top up with sw to do this until its at the correct salinity then return to fresh water top ups.

 

In a 10g 2 clowns would be great. They are fun fish, quite enjoyable to watch. Plus they don't really swim around alot.

 

Another option is a firefish and goby

 

A blenny and a clown.

 

You want to stick to 2 small fish the max.

[debbeach13]

As already stated the SG should be 1.025. Since you do not have any live stock yet when you do a W/C mix the new water to an SG of 1.026 to bring it up. Then test again. Aquascapping is personal preference but it is best to keep the rock off the glass. Better to be able to clean the glass and if possible have some flow behind the rock. Do you have or plan to have a powerhead in the tank? What if any type of filter are you using?

[haleschristine]

Clown79-I will definitely do the sw top offs to raise the salinity. I forgot to mention I am using a hydrometer but have heard they can be inaccurate... refractometer is the next purchase. 

 

Debbeach13-That definitely makes since about the rock. I was trying to create more swimming space in the front. But I will play with the layout this weekend so I can get to the back glass. I ordered a powerhead and it should arrive today. I am using the tetra whisper 20 hob with a bio bag, matrix and chemipure blue. It was suggested to add phosguard so I will be looking into that as well. Would this be sufficient? Or is that too much?

[docshipwreck]

@haleschristine definitely invest in a refractometer and I'd also pay for the calibration fluid. This ensures that the salinity youre seeing is in fact a true salinity. I was mixing and matching to my refractometer only to find I was WAYYYYY OFFFF!!

 

I lost my first few fish to not enough flow and oxygen exchange. I know there are targer turnover rates for water volumes but from everything I have read here I would be leery of a filter rated for a 20 gallon tank when yours is 10. The only good part there is between rock and sand I'm sure your actual volume maybe closer to 6. ( I have a 20L and my volume is a little more then 16).

 

I dont have much experience with phosguard, some use it as directed a once and done sort of phosphate lowering and others use it on a regular basis. I used it once as directed but as turns out my test kit did not go low enough to guage its true worth. ( fighting alge breakout due to overfeeding and exhausted DI cartidge.) 

 

 

[seabass]

For Phosguard, I'd use half the recommended amount and change it out more frequently.  You need a good test kit to monitor levels when using this media.  When levels start to rise, switch out your Phosguard.

[haleschristine]

Update:

 

Last night I added the powerhead to the tank and moved my rocks off the back wall and there is about two inches of space there. I don't think I'm completely happy with the set up but it will do for now. I have added a new photo of it below, the left rock looks like it is touching the left side but it isn't. But you guys were right there was no water flow back there. The poor rocks looked super white on the side that was facing the back wall. Thinking about eventually taking one of them out. 

 

I tested the water today and everything remained the same with the exception of nitrites falling to 0 and nitrates at 5. I also noticed that the phosphate test under direct sunlight looks 0 and under room lighting it's the .25. Definitely getting one of the more sensitive phosphate tests you guys recommended (I would rather not guess as that seems quite a range) and then phosguard if above the .03 mark. In regards to SG, I did the salt water top off last night and then did a water change today as I believe the tank is pretty much cycled. SG is now at 1.023. Step in the right direction ? 

 

Stocking Ideas:

Fish-I like the teardrop clowns, watchman goby and royal gramma. I'll either get 2 of the clowns or one clown and one of the others. Still have quite some time to think about it though. 

 

Question-Is it okay to add a small clean up crew this weekend and continue the top offs until the SG reaches 1.025? I assume not since the SG is still a little low, but the SG recommendations for most of them on live aquaria is 1.023-1.025. Hopefully so, tank has been empty for about 3 weeks. 

 

2nd Question-Should I change the hob filter? If so, what would be good options? 

[Clown79]

I've used aquaclears, marineland Api superclean filters. They all do the same thing some just have more room for your custom media. 

Aquaclears are preferred by those who build refugiums. 

 

Choose a filter that has a good gph to it. 10-20x turnover of tank volume. 

 

I am switching to the seachem tidal filter. It has a really nice design to it. Surface skimmer, 3 water intakes, complete flow control(aquaclears flow control sucks in my opinion), huge media basket, and a clip for heaters.

 

I can let you know what my review is of it once it arrives. 

 

If you are cycled and have started doing wc, a small cuc can be added. Not too many though

[haleschristine]

I really do need more room for my custom media-it currently seems so overloaded. Thank you for your advice on filters and I will definitely do research on them, and  please let me know if the Seachem filter works for you. I have loved their products forever-still use prime on every water change for my freshwater tanks. The second I switched to prime those fish instantly got insanely colorful and active. Unfortunately, there are also a few pregnant ones. Which leads me to my next conondrum. (I have three tanks running currently-1 freshwater also known as my OG tank, a planted tank that is unfortauntely acting as my "overhaul" tank for the fry that I am expecting and the 10 gal nano. 

 

I did add the CUC after reading your response. And everyone is doing fine and a few have coralline on their shells so hopefully they spread it around the tank a bit more. I love it, so gorgeous and colorful.

 

The 20 gallon planted tank was supposed to be for dwarf puffers. But a friend who has a larger reef tank, mentioned that I should carefully switch them out as there is only one guppy fish in the 20 gal. This honestly sounds like a great idea. Plus more room for my live rock and the fish I want to get. I would still stick with my current livestock selections as o would prefer them to thrive then just live. My equipment should be interchangeable so there would be no remaining salt other than on the heaters which would be cleaned. Any opinions on this? 

[Clown79]

You can switch it out. Best to do it now with no corals and fish, its easier. 

There could be a spike in cycle there may not be. 

 

20g should have 15lbs of rock in it. To prevent any spikes, i'd add 5lbs of dry rock or caribseas life rock. 

The liferock is nice. I've used it in my existing tanks with no issues and its coloured purple and injected with bacteria.

 

You will have to clean the 20g really well with vinegar and water, same with any equipment.

 

It will be some work and pre plan.

 

You will need to empty the 20g and get it cleaned out. So the items in the 20g going to the 10g would need to be in a bucket/rubbermaid temporarily.

 

For the switch.

 

 

What you can do is fill a bucket with new sw, put your rocks and cuc in it with heater and pump. 

 

Add new sand to the 20g, then add existing sand and water from 10g to the 20g, add rocks, fill up with water from the bucket, add cuc.

You may need to make additional water to fully fill the 20g.

 

Monitor levels just be on the safe side. 

 

If going with the 20g your filter will probably need an upgrade.

 

Then you got to fill the 10g up.

 

Coralline is pretty but becomes a pain when you gotta scrape it constantly. Lol.

Thank goodness for my flip mag!

 

The seachem tidal has some really great reviews. Tons of videos on youtube

 

 

 

 

[haleschristine]

Update: 

 

The tanks are now switched and all inhabitants are happy with no spikes so far. All parameters are still equal to the previous with the exception of SG which went up to 1.024. Only downfall that did not get worked into my switch plan is the huge chip and crack in the 20 gallon I had. I had finally got the whole 20 gallon cleaned out and found both the chip and the crack on the in the same corner on the backside. I'm sure it could've been fixed but I didn't want to risk it. Had to go buy a new tank. ? 

 

But while doing the switch, I spent some extra time on my rock placement and I think with the extra space it looks ten times better. Definitely going to add a bit more rock to meet the recommendations this weekend. But now that I have a baseline for how I want it should be easier t find the perfect one to fit it. 

 

I plan to add an xenia and maybe 1-2 more coral in about 2 weeks after everything settles again. And then from there wait 1-2 weeks and add 1 fish. And so on. Would this be an appropriate amount of time for the bio load? I am terrified to over load it and mess everything up. I added too many before in my first run at a freshwater tank and it turned out to be more work than needed. (Mind you they're all still living and extremely happy because I worked my ass off-but I would rather not worry to that extreme of daily water changes). I would much rather be more patient this round and do things in the correct order. 

 

If you guys have any recommendations. Please let me know, especially if I am doing something wrong and not noticing it. I really appreciate all the advice. 

 

I did realize that my light had a blue streak in the middle so I raised it a bit, but it's still streaky. (I attached a before an after). Is this okay? I assume it would need to be more evenly distributed. 

[Clown79]

Better to replace a cracked tank than not. 

 

Once your cycle is done, a water change needs to be done. As long as ammonia and nitrite stay at 0 you can start adding.

 

Corals really aren't much for adding bioload, not like fish.

 

I normally start with a small cuc, then fish, then coral.  Some do fish first.

I like to wait for my system to be more stable for corals.

 

Sg at 1.024 is fine. Its better at 1. 025 or 1.026 for corals.

 

What kind of light do you have? Is it sufficient for corals?

[MainelyReefer]

I wouldn't reccomend two clowns for a 10 gallon and anyone who would is a clown, maybe if you do the 20 gallon conversion two clowns would fit

[haleschristine]

10 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Better to replace a cracked tank than not. 

 

Once your cycle is done, a water change needs to be done. As long as ammonia and nitrite stay at 0 you can start adding.

 

Corals really aren't much for adding bioload, not like fish.

 

I normally start with a small cuc, then fish, then coral.  Some do fish first.

I like to wait for my system to be more stable for corals.

 

Sg at 1.024 is fine. Its better at 1. 025 or 1.026 for corals.

 

What kind of light do you have? Is it sufficient for corals?

 

That order makes sense-I think I'll do fish first and add corals once I get the SG up and stable. 

 

The light is from beamswork and I attached the specs below. It was meant to be an affordable option while saving up for a really nice one. It had really good reviews on Amazon.

5 hours ago, GraniteReefer said:

I wouldn't reccomend two clowns for a 10 gallon and anyone who would is a clown, maybe if you do the 20 gallon conversion two clowns would fit

 

I converted the tanks over the weekend.