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40B Build starting on low budget


Hdale85

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I know 40g isn't exactly nano, but this is the forum that I've kind of always followed and my daughter and I wanted to build a tank and Petco had their dollar per gallon tank sale so we grabbed a 40g breeder tank. 

 

So basically what I'm looking to do here is start off pretty minimal and then upgrade and add things regularly over the next couple of months while the tank cycles. My parts list currently is this. 

 

Aqueon 40g Breeder

2x Marineland Maxi-Jet 900 Pro circulation pumps

1x EHIEM Jagger 150w heater

35-40lbs of rock/live rock

60lbs of Aragonite Sand

 

So what I'd like to do is just setup the tank simple like this, and let it run for a couple weeks then add like one fish and let it cycle another week or so and then add a decent amount of cleanup crew. After that just let it cycle for a couple more weeks, in that time I'd probably had a hanging skimmer, light, another heater with a controller, other things I need as I wait for the tank to be fully stable for corals. I'm planning to go sumpless, but I'm not sure if I need a hanging filter, or if a skimmer would work? I was planning on just being careful on food feedings while waiting since there is only one fish. But the skimmer and cleanup crew should get rid of most waste food right? 

 

Currently all I have is the tank, I'm going to grab wood later today to build a stand and then I'm going to order some of the stuff I need. I'm just looking for guidance and such for the most part. I have to start out cheap, but over time I can upgrade the more expensive items like lighting and such. Even a sump eventually isn't out of the question but it seems like sumpless is very possible so I figured I'd start there and see where we end up. 

 

Oh also the types of stuff we want to keep are probably the easier corals (not SPS heavy), and fish like clown fish, flame angel, maybe a yellow tipped blue tang and such. Even though it's not Nano, I know it's limited on how many fish I can have so I don't expect to be adding a lot of fish these are just some of the ones my daughter and I are interested in. 

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Forgot to mention I'm going to grab a 20 dollar Salinity Refractometer that was recommended to me on Amazon, and whatever other testing equipment I need as well. 

 

I have an RO system currently, although it doesn't have a DI cycle on it. I'm not sure if straight RO water will work? We use it to make drinking water but I can tap the RO side before it goes through all the rest of the stuff as the last stage it adds minerals back in for drinking water. 

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40 is still nano and is a pretty common size here. :)

 

I would look up fishless cycling methods.  Cycling with a fish is not the most humane method.  You need to add both ammonia and bacteria (you can skip bacteria but it will take longer to naturally develope).  

 

The tank will most likely take longer than a couple weeks to cycle and you dont want to add anything to the tank before the cycle is finished.

 

You also didn't mention test kits (but I could have missed that), you need test kits to monitoe the cycle and ensure its actually happening.  I would also get HOB filter like an AC 110.

 

And no tang is suitable for a 40 :)  So all tangs are out of the picture.

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Ah I was planning on using those bacteria boosters as well, forgot about that part. I'm fine with whatever cycling method is best on a budget. And I am patient I can wait for the cycle. In my second post I mentioned a refractometer and testing equipment. I forgot that in the first post. 

 

If I got an AC series HOB would I need a skimmer? Do I need the 110? or would the 70 work? Is the 110 gallon spec not accurate? I've seen a lot of mods of the AC70 and 110 that make it into a little sump essentially. Not sure if those mods really improve anything or not. 

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3 minutes ago, Hdale85 said:

Forgot to mention I'm going to grab a 20 dollar Salinity Refractometer that was recommended to me on Amazon, and whatever other testing equipment I need as well. 

 

I have an RO system currently, although it doesn't have a DI cycle on it. I'm not sure if straight RO water will work? We use it to make drinking water but I can tap the RO side before it goes through all the rest of the stuff as the last stage it adds minerals back in for drinking water. 

 

I think you'd honestly do better to use Distilled water. 

I think with RO only water you'd still have stuff in the water that would set you up for pest algae problems down the road. 

This build interests me.

I've been quite tempted to get a 40B myself from the Petco sale, but I'm not in a place where I'd be able to set it up the way I want.

Anyway, I personally learn a lot from reading tank threads of others, so I wanted to share this tank thread with you: 

 

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Thanks for the share, I'll definitely give it a look. 

 

As for the RO water, technically the RO removes everything from the water, the DI is just changing the ionic charge of the water isn't it? Either way I'm sure I can just use distilled water. Should only be 20-30 bucks and eventually I can change up my RO system or get a second system for the tank. 

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1 minute ago, Hdale85 said:

Ah I was planning on using those bacteria boosters as well, forgot about that part. I'm fine with whatever cycling method is best on a budget. And I am patient I can wait for the cycle. In my second post I mentioned a refractometer and testing equipment. I forgot that in the first post. 

 

If I got an AC series HOB would I need a skimmer? Do I need the 110? or would the 70 work? Is the 110 gallon spec not accurate? I've seen a lot of mods of the AC70 and 110 that make it into a little sump essentially. Not sure if those mods really improve anything or not. 

You can use the ac70 but the 110 would add more flow and you usually cant have too much in a reef tabk but you can definitely have too little.  It also gives you more water volume.  They can function as miniature sumps.  I did not prefer that, but others have.

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I think API is better than Red Sea. 

 

API will probably be good enough for testing Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. 

 

Salifert is more accurate, and would be better for testing Calcium, Alkalinity & Magnesium, once you get past your cycle

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5 minutes ago, Weetabix7 said:

I think API is better than Red Sea. 

 

API will probably be good enough for testing Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. 

 

Salifert is more accurate, and would be better for testing Calcium, Alkalinity & Magnesium, once you get past your cycle

Really? I like redsea. 

 

Personally, I think seachem's kit is the best for your basics (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) They are easy to do and easy to read.  For calc, alk, mag, I prefer Red Sea Pro.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-MultiTest-Marine-Basic-Test/dp/B001EUE8EY

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I could see Seachem being good for basics. 

 

I had bad experiences with Red Sea being inaccurate in the past, so if it's something where precision and accuracy really matter, I go for Salifert.

(maybe Red Sea has improved.)

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Hello.

 

I've done tanks on budgets but the 1 thing you can't skimp on is lighting but there are some options that are affordable.

 

Mars Aqua

 Orbit

Aquamaxx nanolight

 

You only need 1-1.5" of sand, not sure if 60lbs is too much.

 

 

You only need about 30lbs of rock

 

If you use liverock- it will cycle on its own, no need for fish (not humane or advised)or ammonia dosing

 

If you use dry rock- ammonia and bacteria dosing to cycle

 

For powerheads, its cheaper and better to get 1 jebao with controller than two maxijets.

Maxijets are very big, noisy, cause microbubbles, and have caused increased temp. 

 

You can get jebao wavmakers for under $100, my sw-2 cost $79 in cda.

 

 

The refractometer is fine

 

Distilled and ro/di is the best water to use.

 

You can use the ac70. You really don't need the larger one. Many go that route for larger water volume, refugium purposes, hiding equipment like heaters but its not necessary.

 

Skimmer isn't necessary, it helps but you can wait on that.

 

The heater is fine. Jaggers are good at maintaining the correct temp.

 

 

Tangs- not in a 40g

 

Liveaquaria.com is a great source for fish and they have a compatability chart too.

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Welcome to NR. 40B is a great tank size. I had one for about 5 years. Easy to aquascape. I did not have a skimmer on it but had one of those CPR hang on aquafuge the small one and an ac70 but just used it with carbon and floss. There are some great threads on here for review of what has worked for others. 40lb.'s of sand should be plenty. I agree that the best place to spend any extra money is on the light and no fish until the cycle is done. Best of luck with your tank.

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So

2 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Hello.

 

I've done tanks on budgets but the 1 thing you can't skimp on is lighting but there are some options that are affordable.

 

Mars Aqua

 Orbit

Aquamaxx nanolight

 

You only need 1-1.5" of sand, not sure if 60lbs is too much.

 

For powerheads, its cheaper and better to get 1 jebao with controller than two maxijets.

Maxijets are very big, noisy, cause microbubbles, and have caused increased temp. 

 

You can get jebao wavmakers for under $100, my sw-2 cost $79 in cda.

 

Thanks for the cheaper lighting options. Those are all really reasonably in my price range, and I wasn't planning on skimping on a light. I was figuring 200-300 but it'd just be a few weeks. Those all look like nice options though. 

 

60lbs was for 2" of sand which is what people recommending from what I saw.

 

The wavemakers, so you think like a TW-25 would be all I need for the 40b? I was under the impression it was better to have multiples rather than one big one. That's why I was looking at the Maxi-Pro's because people seemed to like them and they were cheap enough to get me quite a bit of turn over. 

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Most here won't recommend maxijets other thsn for salt mixing. I've had them, my least favorite. 

 

Hydor koralia

Sicces

Jebao

Tunze 

Exotech

 

Depends on the size of the wavemaker, if you use an hob, and corals will depend on the water turnover rate.

 

You can get 1 jebao and then add another after if needed to 1 controller.

 

I know many like the RW series by jebao. I saw 1 in a 60g and it was pretty powerful.

 

Place the hob on 1 end and the wavemaker on the other, it will create a decent flow.

 

Most wavemakers are pretty powerful with a lot of range of flow type and strengths.

 

 

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The RW and SW lines are quite a bit more. The TW-25 is like 50 bucks and supposed to do between 800 and 1600 gph I think it said. And yeah I'll probably get the AC70 or maybe the 110. 

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Also was curious what's the bare minimum needed to start cycling a tank? If I get the water, heater, sand and live rock can I start cycling? 

 

We picked up 40lbs of black sand today, the wife liked the black stuff better. Also grabbed a metal stand because it was pretty cheap. 

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12 minutes ago, Hdale85 said:

Also was curious what's the bare minimum needed to start cycling a tank? If I get the water, heater, sand and live rock can I start cycling? 

 

We picked up 40lbs of black sand today, the wife liked the black stuff better. Also grabbed a metal stand because it was pretty cheap. 

 

Bare minimum to start cycling is water, live rock, a container to hold it, and something to circulate the water. 

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3 minutes ago, Hdale85 said:

Ok that's what I figured. So a heater isn't even really needed then?

 

Unless you're in a really cold place, I don't think it's needed for cycling. 

I'd say it helps if the water is 76 degrees or warmer. 

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At that price, I'd say the media basket and 110 combo is definitely worth it.  I haven't personally looked at the stock filtration that comes with the 110 but if it's anything like the 20, 30, or 50 the stock one is terrible and lets a good amount of water bypass the filtration.  InTank's media baskets are definitely worth it, as not only does it remove the bypass problem (thereby forcing the water through your filtration) but it also keeps things nice and organized, plus has a convenient spot for filter floss too (with easy swapping capability). 

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