considering move from LED to T5

[Canadianeh]

I am currently using Nanobox LED, and after looking at pictures of tanks with T5 and testimonies on coral growth under T5. I now have interest in exploring the possibility switching to T5.

Here are my questions on T5 as they seem to be more "complicated" set up than out of the box plug & play LED like Nanobox:

• Is initial set up on T5 cost much more than LED?
• which one is easier on electricity cost, LED or T5? Is it a big difference?
• How do I choose which wattage for each T5 bulb and which color?
• Is there a out of the box and plug and play T5 fixture that very good?
• Is T5 light intensity also controllable as LED?
• what are some of the good manufacturers for T5 bulb and fixtures?

[evilc66]

Is initial set up on T5 cost much more than LED? - Depends greatly on the T5 fixture you plan to purchase, and the LED setup that you would compare it to. You can certainly get into a decent T5 setup cheaper than LEDs, but the long term costs will add up and surpass the cost of an LED system. Cheaper fixtures will probably come with bulbs, and they will be so-so. More expensive ones likely won't come with bulbs and will be an additional purchase, but you get to buy what you want.

 

Which one is easier on electricity cost, LED or T5? Is it a big difference? - LED generally will cost a little less to run, but T5's are pretty efficient. The difference in operating costs per month will be pretty small unless you are paying a fortune in electricity costs.

 

How do I choose which wattage for each T5 bulb and which color? - Wattage is determined by length. Pick the fixture that fits your tank, and the bulbs will be easy to pick out. As for color, well, that's very subjective.

 

Is there a out of the box and plug and play T5 fixture that very good? - There are many fixtures that are very good, but it's all dependent on how much you want to pay. ATI, Giesemann, and Pacific Sun make some of the best, but you will also pay the most

 

Is T5 light intensity also controllable as LED? - Yes and no. Dimmable ballasts are limited to the most expensive fixtures. Other ways to adjust intensity is with bulb selection, bulb quantity, and fixture height

 

What are some of the good manufacturers for T5 bulb and fixtures? - For fixtures, there are many options in many budget ranges. ATI, Giesemann, Pacific Sun, Wavepoint, AquaMedic, Aquatic Life, JBJ, etc... For bulbs, most everyone uses ATI and Giesemann

[Boggers]

+1 to all of the above, you can also go T5/LED combo but that will get you into a higher cost that either.

[Canadianeh]

so for those of you who have T5 and not dimmable, at night time do you turn off the light completely? I noticed that having automatically dimming LED light slowly, it is easier on livestock and not surprise them. 

I notice that on ATI fixture, you can get one with 4 bulbs, 6 bulbs, and 8 bulbs. How do I know which one I need? 

[CronicReefer]

I attached two blue led strips to my T5 to simulate sunrise and sunset. The other 4 bulbs turn on/off two at a time to simulate different intensities of the day. The smooth dimming/brightening of the LEDs doesn't startle the fish in the morning and at night. I get a lot less jumping I've noticed because of this.

[Weetabix7]

When I used T-5's, I used 4 bulb fixtures, with 2 sets of 2 bulbs that were each on a different plug. 

I had them on a timer so that the first set of bulbs would go off and the second set would go off an hour later. 

1 minute ago, CronicReefer said:

I attached two blue led strips to my T5 to simulate sunrise and sunset. The other 4 bulbs turn on/off two at a time to simulate different intensities of the day.

 

That's a good point, I have 1 blue LED strip that I also used in that way, I had forgotten about that. 

[Boggers]

I have a T5/MH combo light. It does turn off all the way at night, but as I am a night owl the lights are on until about 2 AM. So ambient daylight is going when the light turns on.  1 T5 for 2 hours, next T5 for a few hours and then my MH bulb. I have an open top and my firefish has not jumped (yet) so I must doing ok.

 

 

as for the 4/6/8 bulbs it will depend partly on you tank size and corals you want.  Lets say you have a 40B with softies...a 4 bulb 24" light should be just fine...40B with LPS and easy SPS- 36" 4bulb or 24" 6 bulb should work....High end SPS-you want to blast that with as much light as you can muster with the 36" 8 bulb

So it is not a one size fits all deal. Many will match tank length to fixture size and the # of bulbs based on what you want to keep.

[stevethao]

Even though all those questions could've been found from searching, I'm glad evilc66 took the time to chime in and not just reply with a "go search!" reply (the rest of you too haha). Makes for a better forum!

[ifarmer]

1 hour ago, CronicReefer said:

I attached two blue led strips to my T5 to simulate sunrise and sunset. The other 4 bulbs turn on/off two at a time to simulate different intensities of the day. The smooth dimming/brightening of the LEDs doesn't startle the fish in the morning and at night. I get a lot less jumping I've noticed because of this.

in my 10 years of reefing, i have never had any moon light on any of my tanks.

 

• Is initial set up on T5 cost much more than LED?
• which one is easier on electricity cost, LED or T5? Is it a big difference?
• How do I choose which wattage for each T5 bulb and which color?
• Is there a out of the box and plug and play T5 fixture that very good?
• Is T5 light intensity also controllable as LED?
• what are some of the good manufacturers for T5 bulb and fixtures?

 

1.  Initial setup cost - T5 is a little old technology than T5 therefore you wont find that many fixtures out in the market where LED is flooded.  so Yes, initial cost might be a little bit more to get a T5 fixture than an LED unless you can go for a used fixture

2. Electricity is just a tiny little bit more on T5.  However in the end, it will be less.  because LED has a tendency to burn corals than T5.  when corals are bleached or dead that means more money out of your pocket.

3. wattage is fixed for length of bulb.  for 24" bulb =24w, 36" = 39W, 48" = 54w...etc.

4. T5 fixture is usually out of the box, they are plug and play unless you have one of those ATI dimmable fixture

5. Intensity:  Yes, with ATI dimmable fixture, you can dim at any level you want from 1% -100%.

6.  good manufactures:  ATI, aquaticlife.

[evilc66]

1 hour ago, ifarmer said:

2. Electricity is just a tiny little bit more on T5.  However in the end, it will be less.  because LED has a tendency to burn corals than T5.  when corals are bleached or dead that means more money out of your pocket.

Honestly, this is kind of a silly statement. ANY light source has the ability to burn corals if used incorrectly, whether it's LED, T5HO, MH, plasma, etc... Bleaching corals with any light source at this point in the game is down to user error and ignorance, not the choice of light source. Most higher end LED fixtures on the market now have acclimation modes, and those that don't will generally get the consensus of the community that you should start low and work up slowly to the appropriate intensity. The information is out there. Those that don't do their homework are doomed to failure regardless of what they use to light their tank.

[Water Dog]

If you're going T5, look for a fixture with active bulb cooling, programmed start ballasts and individual reflectors for each bulb.  These features will maximize the efficiency of the T5 bulbs.  Essentially, these are all the highlights of an ATI Sunpower, and why IMO, they're the gold standard of T5 lighting fixtures.

 

A lot of cheaper fixtures will use rapid start ballasts like the Workhorse 5 or 7 ballast which are not true T5 HO ballasts.  These will overdrive the bulb resulting in efficiency loss and shorter bulb life.  The same can be said about the lack of active bulb cooling.  T5 are said to run most efficiently at around 95F.  With out proper cooling of the bulbs, they will overheat and greatly reduce bulb output and life as evidenced by a lot of the disappointed Giesemann Matrix owners over on the ATI vs Giesemann T5 fixture thread over on RC.

 

For a future build, I picked up a used 36" TEK Elite fixture that has active bulb cooling and individual reflectors for a pretty good deal.  With Gus6464's long distance guidance, I will be putting my DIY skills to the test and will be swapping out the Workhorse rapid start ballasts with Philips Advance Centium programmed start ballasts.  Then, maybe down the road, I'll have Dave retrofit some Nanobox pucks into it for the ultimate LED / T5 combo!

[charlesgage]

I am tagging along as I also have a nanobox and the same tank. I am thinking of adding one 24" T5 Front and back. However aesthetics are a (major) issue. The used market for T5 is VERY good, but you have to search and sometimes post WTB threads as stuff is sitting in storage.

 

My dream for my 170 is to canopy it and put 4 T5's plus a kessil just for shimmer.

[Weetabix7]

1 minute ago, charlesgage said:

I am tagging along as I also have a nanobox and the same tank. I am thinking of adding one 24" T5 Front and back. However aesthetics are a (major) issue. The used market for T5 is VERY good, but you have to search and sometimes post WTB threads as stuff is sitting in storage.

 

My dream for my 170 is to canopy it and put 4 T5's plus a kessil just for shimmer.

 

Heh. 

Speaking of that, I have a used 4 x 39w T5HO retro in a closet. 

I think it's 36" tho, so too long for you. 

Altho I believe I have 2 24" reflectors and I think you can use 24" bulbs with those ballasts. 

[charlesgage]

6 Bulb ATI that just sold for 170: http://www.michiganreefers.com/forums/selling-forums/224570-ati-24-sunpower-t5ho-light-fixture.html

 

With bulbs and moonlights.

[braaap]

1 hour ago, charlesgage said:

6 Bulb ATI that just sold for 170: http://www.michiganreefers.com/forums/selling-forums/224570-ati-24-sunpower-t5ho-light-fixture.html

 

With bulbs and moonlights.

 

Ya they gave that away.

[Clown79]

I had a t5 fixture over my 55g. It had 4 bulbs which were purchased seperately.

 

I have more rapid growth with my led fixture than i did with t5.  

 

I have never noticed an issue with fish being shocked or scared by lights coming on all at once or off at once. 

 

Many don't use moonlighting, its not necessary, its for extended viewing although my t5 did have moonlighting. 

 

Any light fixture can burn your corals regardless if it leds, t5, halides. 

 

If you are in Ontario Ca, your hydro will go up as we pay ridiculous fees for electricity. I switched everything to led and have seen a decrease in my bill. 

 

Evil explained everything in great detail.

 

The one con of t5 is replacing your bulbs every 8 mnths.

[CronicReefer]

11 hours ago, ifarmer said:

in my 10 years of reefing, i have never had any moon light on any of my tank

When did I say anything about moon light? However if you want to cause coral spawning events you should learn about moon cycles 

[Water Dog]

6 hours ago, charlesgage said:

I am tagging along as I also have a nanobox and the same tank. I am thinking of adding one 24" T5 Front and back. However aesthetics are a (major) issue. The used market for T5 is VERY good, but you have to search and sometimes post WTB threads as stuff is sitting in storage.

 

My dream for my 170 is to canopy it and put 4 T5's plus a kessil just for shimmer.

 

Your Nanobox fixture with one T5 in front and another T5 behind would look killer, aesthetically speaking, enclosed in a floating canopy over your tank.

[aviator300]

15 hours ago, evilc66 said:

Is initial set up on T5 cost much more than LED? - Depends greatly on the T5 fixture you plan to purchase, and the LED setup that you would compare it to. You can certainly get into a decent T5 setup cheaper than LEDs, but the long term costs will add up and surpass the cost of an LED system. Cheaper fixtures will probably come with bulbs, and they will be so-so. More expensive ones likely won't come with bulbs and will be an additional purchase, but you get to buy what you want.

 

Which one is easier on electricity cost, LED or T5? Is it a big difference? - LED generally will cost a little less to run, but T5's are pretty efficient. The difference in operating costs per month will be pretty small unless you are paying a fortune in electricity costs.

 

How do I choose which wattage for each T5 bulb and which color? - Wattage is determined by length. Pick the fixture that fits your tank, and the bulbs will be easy to pick out. As for color, well, that's very subjective.

 

Is there a out of the box and plug and play T5 fixture that very good? - There are many fixtures that are very good, but it's all dependent on how much you want to pay. ATI, Giesemann, and Pacific Sun make some of the best, but you will also pay the most

 

Is T5 light intensity also controllable as LED? - Yes and no. Dimmable ballasts are limited to the most expensive fixtures. Other ways to adjust intensity is with bulb selection, bulb quantity, and fixture height

 

What are some of the good manufacturers for T5 bulb and fixtures? - For fixtures, there are many options in many budget ranges. ATI, Giesemann, Pacific Sun, Wavepoint, AquaMedic, Aquatic Life, JBJ, etc... For bulbs, most everyone uses ATI and Giesemann

I also have wanted to try options other than LEDs.  I've had tanks with various LED options (Par bulbs, cheap leds, NanoBox, Kessil, etc but have always yearned to try T5s or something similar.  The problem is, I'm a pico and small nano tank type guy and the tanks I've had are usually only 5 to 10gal. I don't think that any of the quality companies  make these lights and fixtures less than 24" or does someone?

[Weetabix7]

3 hours ago, aviator300 said:

I also have wanted to try options other than LEDs.  I've had tanks with various LED options (Par bulbs, cheap leds, NanoBox, Kessil, etc but have always yearned to try T5s or something similar.  The problem is, I'm a pico and small nano tank type guy and the tanks I've had are usually only 5 to 10gal. I don't think that any of the quality companies  make these lights and fixtures less than 24" or does someone?

 

I have the exact same problem. 

I lean towards setting up smaller tanks, and while there was talk for a while of making T5's smaller than 24", they never materialized, to my great disappointment. 

I have an old Nova (I think) 24" T5 fixture I've held on to through all my moves, who knows, maybe I'll do something with that. 

[Canadianeh]

8 hours ago, Water Dog said:

 

Your Nanobox fixture with one T5 in front and another T5 behind would look killer, aesthetically speaking, enclosed in a floating canopy over your tank.

If there is anyway or products that can do this for my nanobox. I am interested 

[Weetabix7]

23 minutes ago, Canadianeh said:

If there is anyway or products that can do this for my nanobox. I am interested 

 

You'd have to build a canopy or have someone build one for you. 

[Water Dog]

2 hours ago, Canadianeh said:

If there is anyway or products that can do this for my nanobox. I am interested 

Build a box out of plywood and finish and paint it to your specs making sure to cut out the appropriate holes for ventilation.  Remove the gooseneck from your Duo and mount the fixture into the box.  Then mount this T5 retrofit with each bulb on either side of the Duo.

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/t5-ho-miro-4-retrofit-kit-let-lighting.html 

 

Get the 24 watt version.  I believe this retrofit comes with proper programmed start ballasts (may want to ask BRS to make sure).  It also comes with individual reflectors.  Another very nice benefit of a floating canopy is the reduction of light bleed.

[Canadianeh]

Is there other option if I dont want to use mount to ceiling for ATI hybrid led/t5? Do Ati makes any?

[ifarmer]

mount it inside your canopy or

get one of those hang kit made out of electrical conduit.