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TJ's Bust'em Up Custom Reef - Big News!


TJ_Burton

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43 minutes ago, TJ_Burton said:

This is where I think I am headed with the plumbing.

I want to try and quiet the system up as much as possible, so I am going to utilize the aux drain and use a gate valve on the main drain to try and keep air out of the drain pipe (herbie method). Since I only have one hole drilled in the tank, I am going to tee off from the main drain, loop up and back down, and that should allow any backed up water to overflow down the aux drain rather than overfilling the tank.

 

The XAQUA INOUT accepts 3/4" tubing on its return fitting, so I am going to hard plumb half way, and have a barb to allow for soft tubing the rest of the way. The valve on the return is in case I want to add a reactor etc to the system without adding another pump. My eFlux 1900 DC pump is turned up less than half way as it is, so plenty of power left on that to run other things. I am also using a check valve there to prevent unwanted back-siphoning.

 

For looks, using 3 colors of pipe. Violet, Grey, and Orange to keep the theme going. 
Purple - Main Drain

Grey - Aux Drain

Orange - Return

 

Diagram isn't exactly to scale, just a general map of what I will be doing. All bends are done by heating the pipe similarly to how @Scorched did his system (which was the source for inspiration on plumbing this system). I've been practicing on some extra PVC pipe I had laying around, and am confident I can get all of these bends done (even the really tight 90s on the Aux drain).

5927019ac73f0_ElbowlessPlumbing.png.b9ea64faac1a3642ab3c7475878fb447.png

 

That looks wicked....definitely the most unique color scheme ive ever seen. 

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Crazy sump setup!!  Design and color scheme works well together.

 

The plumbing and layout looks great.  I am however confused as to how the drain is going to work with the Aux trap and the herbie style siphon.  In order for the siphon to work you need to purge the air out of the pipe and that trap is going to make it very tricky to start.  

 

I found out the hard way that my system can't restart the siphon faster then the pump pushes water.  During restarts (due to feeding, maintenance, or power failures) the display tank overflows with water for about 1-2 minutes until the siphon restarts on its own. (For those unfamiliar with my tank I've solved this major water issue by limiting the amount of water in the sump.  No excess water means no water on the floor) 

 

With that trap in place it might be impossible for it to self start and you'd have to do it manually every time.

 

 

The more I look at it I can see how it functions if it ISN'T a siphon.  You would leave the valve wide open.  All the water goes down the purple pipe, as you close it up you are forcing it to fill.  Once it reaches the trap you stop closing the valve and the grey pipe takes on any excess water.  When the system restarts you are hoping all the water goes down both pipes until they equalize?

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1 hour ago, Scorched said:

The more I look at it I can see how it functions if it ISN'T a siphon.  You would leave the valve wide open.  All the water goes down the purple pipe, as you close it up you are forcing it to fill.  Once it reaches the trap you stop closing the valve and the grey pipe takes on any excess water.  When the system restarts you are hoping all the water goes down both pipes until they equalize?

 

You nailed it!
Basically I am allowing the primary drain to back up by precise tuning of the gate valve in order to stop air from entering the sump, and by bringing the water level as high up in the pipe as possible to reduce noise by decreasing the fall distance of the water entering the drain from the aquarium. I will have a pretty comfy area to aim for in the primary drain line before I hit the aux drain bend. The reason I have the aux drain looping up is just to prevent falling water from trickling down the aux drain (it can't splash into the aux drain line as it goes down the primary drain, but rather has to travel up and around which means the only time I will get water coming down the aux drain into the sump is if the primary drain is either blocked or if the gate valve is shut too far). Both drains are the same (1") diameter so the Aux drain can still accommodate the full capacity of the primary drain.

 

Ideally there would be no water going down the aux drain during regular operation, and the water level would float in the safe zone on the primary drain. If the power goes out, the water from the primary drain goes into the sump as it always would. Upon restart, things should go right back to normal, and any backup during start up that may occur would go down the aux drain. I'd also make sure the aux drain pipe in the sump section sits just above the water level in the sump so that it isn't fighting any pressure of being underwater, and both air and water flow freely through the pipe. Having it above the water line would also give me an audible indicator of when water is coming down the aux drain and clue me into checking on the system.

 

Its just a simple way to allow for the quieting properties of a Herbie system to work on a single drain bulkhead/overflow. It doesn't however act as a true redundancy since the display still relies on only the single bulkhead overflow. That is something that this tank just can not support since it only has the one hole drilled for a drain line. 

 

59272a9ca3af2_Drainoperation.png.8377dfd7efa678926031f6323027410a.png

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Jumped on BRS this morning and ordered my plumbing. Got to take advantage of their 10% off sale happening today!

 

Looking forward to getting this system redone before my son is born. I'm sure I'll be crazy busy with a toddler and a newborn... I will have to try and automate more of the system to keep it as hands off as possible.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Found some nice orange airline!

I also nabbed a couple interesting chalice corals today for an absolute steal - pics to come.

 

20170607_140046.thumb.jpg.b06c994bc52cd051f5e9d5d3a2bdb3ea.jpg

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4 hours ago, TJ_Burton said:

Found some nice orange airline!

I also nabbed a couple interesting chalice corals today for an absolute steal - pics to come.

 

20170607_140046.thumb.jpg.b06c994bc52cd051f5e9d5d3a2bdb3ea.jpg

Under your cabinet must look like a blackout party waiting to happen!  :lol:

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Not the best photo but no time to bust out the DSLR.

 

Taken using Orphek's flashlight since the lights are off on the tank.

 

 

20170607_213453.jpg

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On 6/10/2017 at 8:11 AM, markalot said:

Chalices ... nice.  

 

So how are the acros doing, last FTS was a while ago. :D

 

Not too shabby! One was falling victim to random STN, so it got fragged up but is now doing much better [in pieces].

In the process of cleaning things up for another video shoot, then after that I can start getting all fancy with the plumbing!

 

Haven't had nearly enough time to really get much done with the system otherwise. Once this next shoot is over, I am going to thin out the corals I don't want to keep, and starting gluing the ones down that I certainly want to stay.

 

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In an interesting development, I may actually be upgrading the tank and stand as well, rather than updating the filtration and plumbing. 

Couple reasons I am considering this:

1 - This way I don't have to rush to get the sump off, then re plumb the system with the new sump, and instead can work at my leisure getting a completely new system set up and then just do a transfer.

 

2 - The current tank is 27" x 20" x 20" and the new tank I am looking at is 35" x 20" x 19" which gives me more room, and affords some more open space for clams in the display, as well as room in the stand to work with. The room in the stand is definitely appealing since currently my ATO sits beside the tank and I'd much rather conceal it within.

 

Going to do a video update soon for the chaeto reactor, as well as all the components that arrived for the upgrade! My son is due at the end of July so I am in a total time crunch to get this all done. Fingers crossed I succeed! haha.

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Decided to take a quick snap of the new color coordinated Sump/Light/Plumbing to see how well it all matches up.

 

Have to say I'm pretty happy so far! Working on some matching reactors and trying to find a skimmer that matches well. Thinking NYOS.

 

IMG_20170625_213549_180.thumb.jpg.0962e26cd3ea69174371c8cf69d41e10.jpg

 

IMG_20170625_213219_453.thumb.jpg.48ba79e3a2056291ac03cfc019bdbabe.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Lula_Mae said:

Your tank is going to have the most colorful underpinnings on Nano-Reef! :lol:

The corals will be competeing against the filtration for compliments :P

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21 minutes ago, TJ_Burton said:

The corals will be competeing against the filtration for compliments :P

You'll have to do full equipment shots instead of full tank shots!

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1 hour ago, TJ_Burton said:

Did a quick update video on the DIY Chaeto Reactor:
 

 

Aaaaaaah now i can make the link! You are Thomas :D (stupid me) ! This is an awesome build man. Eager to see it all come together. Congrats on the baby news.

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9 hours ago, TJ_Burton said:

Did a quick update video on the DIY Chaeto Reactor:
 

 

 

Awesome update TJ. You didnt mention your phosphate/Nitrate levels since using the reactor. I noticed you have a number of fish so Im sure others are curious if your levels are at or close to 0. IME my nitrates/phosphates have remained undetectable but I have a much lower bioload.

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15 hours ago, Rory282 said:

Aaaaaaah now i can make the link! You are Thomas :D (stupid me) ! This is an awesome build man. Eager to see it all come together. Congrats on the baby news.

 

Hahaha, that I am! Thanks so much :) we are super excited to meet our son!

 

7 hours ago, Rehype said:

 

Awesome update TJ. You didnt mention your phosphate/Nitrate levels since using the reactor. I noticed you have a number of fish so Im sure others are curious if your levels are at or close to 0. IME my nitrates/phosphates have remained undetectable but I have a much lower bioload.

 

My nitrates are <20ppm (I don't have a kit accurate enough to detect under 20ppm so essentially undetectable with this test kit. My phosphates are around or under 0.05 but I can't say for certain if they are zero, although I don't want them at zero so I am hoping they are right at 0.05 :) 

 

I feed quite a bit, and there is definitely nutrients going into the system, so I know the reactor is keeping things in check at least as well as the refugium did. Now my sump can stay clean and algae free!

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I've decided to switch over to 6 bulb T5HO for now. I LOVE my Radion G4 Pro, but I want this tank on easy-mode for the SPS. I haven't fully dialed in the Radion for the system, and some SPS are still looking pale from being pounded by light. I don't think I'll have the time over the next month to tinker with it the way Id like to with my newborn nearly here, so I'm busting out my old Aquatic Life 6 bulb fixture, tossing in some ATI and Euroquatics bulbs and going that route for a while.

20170705_112412.thumb.jpg.c5d66994677a5d99a180ea08314ec564.jpg

 

IMG_20170705_194324_194.thumb.jpg.0613251689f742f02c0fb344ac4660ce.jpg

 

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Well, judging by that picture of the water surface, the new T5's look amazing!

 

Seriously, I'm more and more convinced that the best light option is a hybrid T5/LED fixture. Makes it easier to blast high PAR at the peak, while keeping even coverage, and SPS love T5's :)

 

Congrats on the incoming frag, by the way!

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4 minutes ago, teenyreef said:

Well, judging by that picture of the water surface, the new T5's look amazing!

 

Seriously, I'm more and more convinced that the best light option is a hybrid T5/LED fixture. Makes it easier to blast high PAR at the peak, while keeping even coverage, and SPS love T5's :)

 

Congrats on the incoming frag, by the way!

 

I couldn't agree more regarding T5/LED hybrid fixtures.
And I love that... hahaha incoming frag!

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