teenyreef Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 2 hours ago, metrokat said: I just emailed them today about the status - hadn't heard back after that automated email 9 days ago. Also I needed 2 additional cut outs for wires on the back of the lid. Arrgh. The wait is even worse than shipping stuff from China. Here's Day 3 of the Fluconazole bryopsis treatment. As it gets longer it looks more like bryopsis. So I'm getting more optimistic that the Fluco will help. But in the meantime all the corals are suffering. Even the gsp isn't open, and there's very little bryopsis on them. 1 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 I got super crazy tonight and decided to just go with the scape without changing anything So I used a combination of superglue gel and Emarco mortar to hold all the rocks together. The back rocks are glued into two big chunks that come apart in the middle. The idea is to be able to take them out again if I need to clean. 7 Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I know I'll get hate mail for this for being an insensitive ecological ass, but here goes. EVERY damn time I use dry rock I end up with freaky algae issues, EVERY time. Same make up water, same type system and always the same outcome. If I use fresh Indo rock, never an issue. If yours does this, I'll make you an offer you can't refuse. I'll sell you enough fresh Indo rock to do a tank at my cost just so you can see the difference. I have some Pukani right now that I'm ready to throw out in the damn yard because of dynos, bryopsis and general algae crap. I cooked it for 6 damn months with 500g of AlO changed every 2 weeks and it can grow algae better than anything I've ever seen, lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 I agree, fresh live rock is the best way to start. This is actually the first tank I've ever done with dry rock. 4g tank: live rock from lfs, came with free vermetid snails, the gift that keeps on giving. 10g: uncured live rock from KPA, came with lots of macro algae and nice hitchhikers. 40g: half uncured live rock from KPA, half dry rock from Reefcleaners. Came with beautiful plating coralline, but phosphates from the dry rock gave me diatoms for months. Vibrant finally knocked it out. For this tank I'm going to seed the dry rock with a few pieces of live rock. But I expect to see algae problems due to the phosphates in the dry rock. Honestly the only reason I'm doing the dry rock is because I've got it already. 1 Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I have some sorta funky ass Caulerpa growing in the one tank that had to come in on the Fiji boat rock, now figure that one out. The only other explanation is there were spores in the seawater from either Indo, Sri Lanka or The Philippines. Boat rock is in transit about 6 weeks in a container so if it made that trip I'm damn well impressed. 1 Quote Link to comment
J-Ranko Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 7 hours ago, StinkyBunny said: I know I'll get hate mail for this for being an insensitive ecological ass, but here goes. EVERY damn time I use dry rock I end up with freaky algae issues, EVERY time. Same make up water, same type system and always the same outcome. If I use fresh Indo rock, never an issue. If yours does this, I'll make you an offer you can't refuse. I'll sell you enough fresh Indo rock to do a tank at my cost just so you can see the difference. I have some Pukani right now that I'm ready to throw out in the damn yard because of dynos, bryopsis and general algae crap. I cooked it for 6 damn months with 500g of AlO changed every 2 weeks and it can grow algae better than anything I've ever seen, lol. Dry rock has phosphates which need months of curing to leech out. I never bother with dry rocks. It's either cured or fresh live. Pests can be dealt with by target-killing them. Algae, on the other hand, often requires extreme measures. 2 Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 31 minutes ago, J-Ranko said: Dry rock has phosphates which need months of curing to leech out. I never bother with dry rocks. It's either cured or fresh live. Pests can be dealt with by target-killing them. Algae, on the other hand, often requires extreme measures. I've cured some for 6+ months and it's still loaded with phosphates, never again will I use dry or boat rock in a personal tank, fresh or nothing. 1 Quote Link to comment
ninjamyst Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 My tank been mostly algae free and I started with dry rock only... I will never go with live rock because it's easier to aqua scape with dry. 7 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Like almost everything in reefing, there's more than one way to success. And numerous ways to failure I've also heard that some dry rock is much worse than others. 3 Quote Link to comment
ninjamyst Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 29 minutes ago, teenyreef said: Like almost everything in reefing, there's more than one way to success. And numerous ways to failure I've also heard that some dry rock is much worse than others. yea, for sure. The vidarock I used before I had horrible algae in both tanks. Still have hair algae in my nano now... 1 Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Hey, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Maybe I got the shit end of the stick with this lot of rock. I'll snag up another box, cure it and see what happens. Might see what happens when the ATS finally cooks out. There are quite a few locals that recently had issues with the last load of boat rock. I did notice a plethora of sponges on this last lot of Pukani and even the slab. 1 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 This morning I found out you're supposed to stop skimming, or at least remove the skimmer cup, when dosing Fluconazole. I didn't read all the instructions carefully enough. So I turned off the skimmer and dumped the cup back into the tank. Hopefully that will keep the medication in the tank and I won't have to dose again at the end of the two weeks. 2 Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 It's mainly for O2 saturation bro. 1 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 1 minute ago, StinkyBunny said: It's mainly for O2 saturation bro. Yep! I've got it running without the cup now so it can just dump lots of bubbles and keep up the O2. Quote Link to comment
natalia_la_loca Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Fwiw, some have kept their skimmers running and still had success with flucon. Just to throw another pointless $0.02 into the dry rock vs live rock debate, for my reefbowl and zoa garden I used dry Marco Rock. Didn't even rinse it, I just did the scape and filled it up. I've had no algae problems that couldn't be traced directly to frags introduced by me. I tend to agree with Teeny that some types, brands of dry rock harbor more nasty stuff than others. 2 Quote Link to comment
fishfreak0114 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I used primarily Marco rock in my tank, and I haven't had any issues either. I just rinsed off the dust and before scaping. 2 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 John has a nice detailed writeup on the Reefcleaners dry rock that I am using: https://www.reefcleaners.org/aquarium-store/florida-reef-rock-15lbs-free-shipping In summary, it's mined inland from an ancient reef, goes for a long soak in a deep well, is "professionally cleaned and dried", and has been treated to prevent phosphate leaching. He doesn't say how it's treated though. It's completely free of organic material and won't cause a cycle. It's pretty light and porous with lots of holes. Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Here's day 4. I dipped all the frags other than this one in peroxide tonight because they were all closed up and very unhappy from the algae. The particular zoas on this one are purple death zoas and they grown like crazy anyway, so I don't mind if I lose these. 2 Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I think the issue with the rock is Fiji Pukani. I don't have an issue with the slab or the branch rock. We'll see. Right now Indo rock is shipping like mad so I'm stockpiling it for my next build. 1 Quote Link to comment
Mariaface Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 15 hours ago, teenyreef said: Here's day 4. I dipped all the frags other than this one in peroxide tonight because they were all closed up and very unhappy from the algae. The particular zoas on this one are purple death zoas and they grown like crazy anyway, so I don't mind if I lose these. Huh! Mine also suddenly has the occasional small white sections in the strands. I took a photo earlier, but I'm hoping for a bit more progress before I post 1 Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I'll just leave this here: 2 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 N-R pictures aren't working right now Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 How bout now? 1 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 9 minutes ago, StinkyBunny said: How bout now? Yes! Nice tank Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Gonna fill it with Fiji leathers Friday, then maricultured Montiporas next Sunday. 4 Quote Link to comment
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