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SeaFurn's Reef Bowl


SeaFurn

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  • 3 weeks later...

How's the bowl doing with 100% RSCP water changes each week? I'm doing the same in my Pico and while the acropora don't seem to mind, my pocillopora and birdsnest are looking terminal becuase of something. What are your nutrient levels?

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@Moolelo  I've had no issues with RSCP and the 100% weekly water changes are basically resetting the params back to whatever the latest bucket mixes to.  Nitrates are 0 and phosphates are 0...and that's how they've always been.  One might consider it a ULNS perhaps.  I do have more algae in the bowl now than in the past which I've been trying to figure out.  My work horse trochus snail died recently so that may part of the problem.  There are other snails in there but that one was a machine!

 

I feel my biggest issue is the light (PAR38 bulb).  I like it and the color i get from it but..... I really need to put it up higher to get better coverage and keep the bases of some of the SPS from turning white due to shading.  The the problem with that then seems to be the SPS start turning more brown. 

 

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Thanks, that's super helpful and good to hear! I was concerned about doing 100% with RSCP at ULNS (use to only have NSW), but guess some coral just can't take it.

I would guess the decaying material fueled the algae growth and took up most of the nutrients so they don't show up on tests.

My issue with my abi par38 is it being to intense and partially bleaching some corals (weirdly the acros seem to love the high alk, high light and 100% changes the most). 

Are you substrate-less? That makes a difference in reflected light to the underside of coral.

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20 hours ago, SeaFurn said:

I feel my biggest issue is the light (PAR38 bulb).  I like it and the color i get from it but..... I really need to put it up higher to get better coverage and keep the bases of some of the SPS from turning white due to shading.  The the problem with that then seems to be the SPS start turning more brown. 

 

My acro loves the high light, and generally where the base turns white that is where it's expanding and encrusting. Could the be what going on in your case?  

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On 12/23/2017 at 5:51 AM, jahnje said:

My acro loves the high light, and generally where the base turns white that is where it's expanding and encrusting. Could the be what going on in your case?  

My coral has all encrusted to the rocks.   I'm thinking it's the shading because it's mostly on the back sides of the coral that are growing at an angle.  On the ones growing more straight up and down, it's all the way around the base and then it works its way upward as the coral grows taller. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did my normal 100% water change today. Had the rock with this acro out of the water for a few minutes while crushing some vermetid snails. When I put it in back in the bowl I noticed this black stuff on parts that I thought had turned white from lack of light - shading.  But I'm not so sure because it looks like it's working its way around to the front. 

There's no flesh blowing off of it. 

And the other acros in the bowl seem normal. 

Nothing new added to the bowl since spring last year. 

Anyone have any thoughts as to what's going on?  

24697237237_56bbcc740f_b.jpg

 

  • Wow 1
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  • SeaFurn changed the title to SeaFurn's Reef Bowl - Need Help with Acro Please

Hmmm. So, lack of light on acros makes them a very dull beige/brownish flesh color. When these areas are exposed to light they will color up, so technically the flesh is not dead. If you saw white flesh that means dead :(. Do you see any bite marks on the underside?

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1 hour ago, metrokat said:

Hmmm. So, lack of light on acros makes them a very dull beige/brownish flesh color. When these areas are exposed to light they will color up, so technically the flesh is not dead. If you saw white flesh that means dead :(. Do you see any bite marks on the underside?

Yeah...the underside is completely white...and there's little black specs (at least they look black under the blue light) on it too.

Looks worse today. It looks like it might be spreading to the frag right next to it. 

What do you think it is? 

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That looks like a bacterial infection of some sort to me. I don't do a hell of a lot with acros, but the black and white says bacterial to me. Just by chance did any of the slime from those vermetid snails get on this coral or the other one that's showing the same symptoms? If so, a good rinsing and another water change can't hurt.

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On 1/11/2018 at 1:20 PM, StinkyBunny said:

That looks like a bacterial infection of some sort to me. I don't do a hell of a lot with acros, but the black and white says bacterial to me. Just by chance did any of the slime from those vermetid snails get on this coral or the other one that's showing the same symptoms? If so, a good rinsing and another water change can't hurt.

No, I was crushing snails with the rock out of the water and then rinsing each spot I where i crushed them.

So under regular lighting it looks like it might just be dark colored algae where the base has suddenly whitened.  It's weird that that that acro's base had suddenly whitened on areas where it seemed to be getting enough light.  Wish I had a better light...

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  • SeaFurn changed the title to SeaFurn's Reef Bowl - Help with Acros!!!!
39 minutes ago, metrokat said:

I think you should toss it, not worth risking the rest of the corals with whatever this might be. :(

Can they be scraped off with a toothpick?

Nope...I even tried scraping with tweezers.

I was leaning towards chucking it.  Ugh....

 

28 minutes ago, Justind823 said:

I'm having trouble finding stories of success dealing with this. A series of Lugol's dips?

I think you're right.  That's exactly what it looks like.  Thanks for sending that.

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29 minutes ago, Justind823 said:

I'm having trouble finding stories of success dealing with this. A series of Lugol's dips?

After I toss the two pieces that seem really infected I have no idea how I'm going to keep it off the others. They've all encrusted so I'd have to break them off and dip them.  Can you dip acros in Bayer? 

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Thanks to @Justind823 for this link (also posted above).  https://reefbuilders.com/2012/07/24/halofolliculina-corallasia/

 

I had 3 pieces that looked pretty bad so I popped them out of the bowl tonight just to be safe. I debated dipping but don't think any type of dip would save them at this point. 

I then took a mix of peroxide and water and scrubbed the rock where they had encrusted.  I have no idea if that will help anything but just seemed like the areas needed to be "sanitized".  

There's one more piece I'll keep my eye on as it looks like maybe the base of it has started to show signs of black spots.  The other remaining piece doesn't seem infected at this point.

Will have to do some research on this.  I have no idea where it came from as I haven't added anything new since spring last year and it's only been recent that this showed up.

I don't know how to get rid of it and I'm wondering if I'll be able to keep acros in the bowl or if I'm going to need to do a complete restart everything if I want to keep them again.

So frustrated tonight. 

 

38835331965_1972a33404_b.jpg

 

 

  • Sad 6
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  • SeaFurn changed the title to SeaFurn's Reef Bowl - Skeletal Erosion Band??

Could you cut off the affected areas? Just leave little nubs? I don't think that Bayer would work on them. You could try one of the potassium based dips. I've had better luck with those than with iodine based dips. I've switched to them exclusively for all arriving corals. It's the ONLY thing I've found that stops the Fiji Black Death on the Yellow Elegans Leathers. They still get antibiotics for 10 days just to be safe.

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15 minutes ago, StinkyBunny said:

Could you cut off the affected areas? Just leave little nubs? I don't think that Bayer would work on them. You could try one of the potassium based dips. I've had better luck with those than with iodine based dips. I've switched to them exclusively for all arriving corals. It's the ONLY thing I've found that stops the Fiji Black Death on the Yellow Elegans Leathers. They still get antibiotics for 10 days just to be safe.

You mean little nubs like this! Did that! :lol::D

I started to toss them but just couldn't bring myself to do it...

39734465791_e173963294_b.jpg

 

I don't have any potassium based dip. I have iodine. Should I use that on the little nubs that don't seem affected? 

  • Haha 3
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On 1/17/2018 at 4:35 PM, StinkyBunny said:

I would try to watch what happens over the next day or so and dip them just in case there's some sort of bacterial infection going on there too.

 

On 1/18/2018 at 7:37 PM, metrokat said:

This

Dipped the frags.  They look fine.

The question now is how do I get rid off this completely?  There's not much information on that out on the web.  If that's not possible then that doesn't leave much hope for being able to add acros back into the bowl. 

 

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On 1/20/2018 at 12:06 PM, SeaFurn said:

 

Dipped the frags.  They look fine.

The question now is how do I get rid off this completely?  There's not much information on that out on the web.  If that's not possible then that doesn't leave much hope for being able to add acros back into the bowl. 

 

Maybe different dips can help - one at a time of course. Maybe a fresh water dip which is also very harsh on acros themselves. Maybe iodine. Maybe potassium permanganate. 

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  • SeaFurn changed the title to SeaFurn's Reef Bowl

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