jedimaster Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 I have heard of several different methos of acclimating corals. 1) From floatin ght ebag for 30 minutes then just a plunge into the tank. 2) Dripping for a couple hours. 3) Iodine dip 4) holding in the air for a couple minutes so they slime up to protect from PH and Alk shock, then right in 5) seems some don't acclimate at all. 6) FW dip Just wondering what everyone else does. Link to comment
MrKrispy Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Lately I float in a container, add water every 15 minutes or so, then set in the sand. That seems to have worked better than sliming or float/plunge. Link to comment
pyrrhus Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 i like to drip acclimate, or use a container and add water every 5 minutes or so. Link to comment
Dr. Saltwater Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 I have a very small bucket next to my tank. Put the coral in the bucket with the water from the LFS. Then drip water from your maintank/Filter to the bucket for about 1 hour. Every 15 minutes get a cup of water out of the bucket. Then usually it's ready, but I often check for worms and other critter. If I spot one of those, they get a Betadine-bath, witch kills planaria and other critter. Than again in the bucket witch has the same parameters as the tank, leave it there for 5 min and than put it in the tank. Link to comment
MrKrispy Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 i wonder if a lot of the browning issues people have with acros and montis could be due to temp. stability? Temp is all over the place in shipping, and then whatever happens after that. That is one of the reasons I started acclimating in the tank instead of on the counter. I also always use a styro when picking up frags, fish, etc... Link to comment
skeletor Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 I place the bags in the sump for about 15-20 mins, I prefer not to give a FW dip, but it seems these days everyone has either got flatworms or red bugs or some other reef nasty.. so, FW dip for about 30 seconds to longer for frags attached to rocks. for unattached frags (which I prefer), they get mounted, and go to the bottom of the tank for closer inspection. depending on how it's doing and what sort of lighting it came from I will move them to their new position in 1 to 3 days and that's it. I've done this with a few shipments and only ever lost 1 green m.cap. note: I'm running a 175w 10K and all the frags I've got have come from something stronger.. MrK, I'd think excessivly high temps in the bag would cause bleaching, but maybe not browning. my guess it has more to do with light acclimation.. -skeletor- Link to comment
matt the fiddler Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 this is one area i go way overboard on- but hey-- i NEVER loose coral to RTN, Travel stress, browning from transver [well almost never on the browning] so decide yourself based on my results... this is a very detailied report but goes wiht one principal coral is under a lot of stress moving. why rush it's entry in the new tank? Styro container for transport .. as much water from previous tank as possible.... Drip acclamade. into the styro or a bucket hanging in the sump [for temp stability] i drip for at least 3 hours on all coral. here is how i figure the drip time [well drip time is dependent on how fast your drip is... you learn how to set it for what you want- plus i always start the drip slow and increase the drip spped over time.. as the water gets closer..] estimate how much water you have form the old tank... when you pull out that much water from the aclamade bucket you are 50% there by the params. do that 2 or 3 more time. so everytime you pull out the origianl water volme this happens.... you go 50% old water [slowest part of the drip] 25%, 12.5% etc. it is a function of log... then finally around the 10% old tank water is where i crank the drip to a turbo stream for a min.. to do a final push .. and then pop the coral in in the most similiar lighting place to the old tank as i can find... Link to comment
Korbin Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 I've had good luck with holding the coral in open air for almost 5 minutes. Let it build up a slime coat and then plop it in once its protected with slime. Link to comment
bobioden Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 Originally posted by Korbin I've had good luck with holding the coral in open air for almost 5 minutes. Let it build up a slime coat and then plop it in once its protected with slime. I agree, but usually you are using a Super Glue gel to hold the Frag to the LR. So when you are glueing the frag it is exposed to air which starts the sliming process. And the Bali Slimer definately got its name from the slime it produces. Link to comment
surfy Posted September 11, 2004 Share Posted September 11, 2004 I also "drip dry" my sps. Out of the bag and into the air for a closer inspection until it starts to slime up then I glue/epoxy to a small rock and place into tank. I then blow off the slime with a turkey baister so they don't suffocate. Haven't lost one yet this way. I have heard that epoxy and m.caps don't fair to well together. The epoxy actually burns/bleaches the cap where the epoxy touches. I use SG gel for monti's just to be on the safe side. Link to comment
supernip Posted September 12, 2004 Share Posted September 12, 2004 dont beat me for saying this, but I float it. then plop them in. healthy specimens will survive if your tank has good parameters. <-- I hate how vague that is. Link to comment
brahm Posted September 12, 2004 Share Posted September 12, 2004 SPS... Cut bag drop in water, i've actually.. pretty much quit acclimating everything but Fish, and a few delicate corals.. ...and when I do acclimate stuff, (except fish) I just cut the holes in the bag and drop in the water and let the waters mix. Link to comment
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