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IM Nuvo Lagoon 25 Owners Thread


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tranceFusion
On 6/29/2020 at 2:54 AM, Clown79 said:

1 single prime worked well for me. 

I added an HD and I've had to keep them both on lower settings.

 

If you plan on sps dominate, I would get 2.

Thanks @Clown79 ! I saw on another thread that you head the Aqamai KPS powerhead which is the same one that I picked up. I am not sure what a sensible setting for my return pump is (it is MightyJet 328 GPH) or for the KPS? Should I max out the return pump and then start adding flow from the KPS or vice versa? I had read that if turnover is too high it will reduce the effectiveness of filter media. And what's a good location for the powerhead in this tank?

 

I'm looking to keep fish and softies/LPS but only have rock and inverts in it now. Thanks for any tips!

 

 

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9 hours ago, tranceFusion said:

Thanks @Clown79 ! I saw on another thread that you head the Aqamai KPS powerhead which is the same one that I picked up. I am not sure what a sensible setting for my return pump is (it is MightyJet 328 GPH) or for the KPS? Should I max out the return pump and then start adding flow from the KPS or vice versa? I had read that if turnover is too high it will reduce the effectiveness of filter media. And what's a good location for the powerhead in this tank?

 

I'm looking to keep fish and softies/LPS but only have rock and inverts in it now. Thanks for any tips!

 

 

Unfortunately there is no easy answer to this because each tank is different and both pump and wavemaker settings/placement will differ from tank to tank.

 

Type of Corals, aquascape, coral placement will all play a factor.

 

Its something that will need tinkering with

 

The kps is fully customizable and the mighty jet has 2 settings.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Need some help with a Tunze 3155. I'm using the stock mightyjet desktop pump and it's on the lowest setting but the return chamber is still rippling so it's causing the Tunze sensor to keep coming on every few minutes when it's not evaporating! Thankfully I'm still cycling my tank. I can get a better video if you need it, I just wanted to show the return water rippling;


How is everyone else using this ATO?

 

 

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18 minutes ago, RRsNano said:

Need some help with a Tunze 3155. I'm using the stock mightyjet desktop pump and it's on the lowest setting but the return chamber is still rippling so it's causing the Tunze sensor to keep coming on every few minutes when it's not evaporating! Thankfully I'm still cycling my tank. I can get a better video if you need it, I just wanted to show the return water rippling;


How is everyone else using this ATO?

 

 

How low do you keep your water level in the return chamber?

 

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13 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

How low do you keep your water level in the return chamber?

 

About 2" below the 2nd chamber glass. I can't keep it any higher because the float valve on the Tunze magnet sensor will hit the hose on the 90deg elbow.

 

 

elbow.jpg

water level.jpg

 

 

EDIT: I uploaded 2 pics. They're not showing up on firefox but are in edge...

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8 hours ago, RRsNano said:

About 2" below the 2nd chamber glass. I can't keep it any higher because the float valve on the Tunze magnet sensor will hit the hose on the 90deg elbow.

 

 

elbow.jpg

water level.jpg

 

 

EDIT: I uploaded 2 pics. They're not showing up on firefox but are in edge...

Oh, that could be why.

 

Most keep it 1/2 inch to an inch 

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On 8/19/2020 at 11:47 AM, RRsNano said:

I know every tank is different but for those running a AI Prime what’s your peak % settings at?

I'm looking in to getting this tank.

 

On my deeper tank  (by about 3 inches) I am only at 16 watts (AI Prime 16HD).  My Zoas, Acans, and Trachy's are mega happy.  They are getting around 75-80 par on average on the sandbed.  With about 2-3 inches less water height you are probably closer 90-100 par.  I'd say stay around 14-18 watts max if you have similar corals as I do.

 

I think many go with too much wattage in the beginning.  I learned the hard way with just 19-20 watts bleaching and killing a very pricy Trachy Coral.    

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10 hours ago, Blklexus74 said:

I'm looking in to getting this tank.

 

On my deeper tank  (by about 3 inches) I am only at 16 watts (AI Prime 16HD).  My Zoas, Acans, and Trachy's are mega happy.  They are getting around 75-80 par on average on the sandbed.  With about 2-3 inches less water height you are probably closer 90-100 par.  I'd say stay around 14-18 watts max if you have similar corals as I do.

 

I think many go with too much wattage in the beginning.  I learned the hard way with just 19-20 watts bleaching and killing a very pricy Trachy Coral.    

When i had just a regular prime over my lagoon my  rb was 100%, b, v, uv at 80%, w 10%, r&g 4%

 

Now that i added an hd i run both lights lower. Ab + schedule but with reduced percentages of rb, b, w because my corals were not doing well with both lights being higher.

 

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On 7/19/2020 at 1:24 PM, tranceFusion said:

Thanks @Clown79 ! I saw on another thread that you head the Aqamai KPS powerhead which is the same one that I picked up. I am not sure what a sensible setting for my return pump is (it is MightyJet 328 GPH) or for the KPS? Should I max out the return pump and then start adding flow from the KPS or vice versa? I had read that if turnover is too high it will reduce the effectiveness of filter media. And what's a good location for the powerhead in this tank?

 

I'm looking to keep fish and softies/LPS but only have rock and inverts in it now. Thanks for any tips!

 

 

One limiting factor:

 

I put two pumps on my return. Lots of added flow! You can pump about a maximum of 800 gph back into the display given the limited number on return intake slots otherwise the return water level drops considerably and the main display overflows. Really, IMO, the tank should have a emergency return intake above the display tank waterline incase intakes get blocked.

For what its worth even at 800 gph, my skimmer runs the same.

  • Like 1
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What are you guys doing for nutrient export?
I've failed at growing chaeto .

looking into maybe a diy algea scrubber or maybe jsut saying F it an running dual media reactors. 

 

The classic double post, apologies. 

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On 8/13/2020 at 9:55 PM, RRsNano said:

Need some help with a Tunze 3155. I'm using the stock mightyjet desktop pump and it's on the lowest setting but the return chamber is still rippling so it's causing the Tunze sensor to keep coming on every few minutes when it's not evaporating! Thankfully I'm still cycling my tank. I can get a better video if you need it, I just wanted to show the return water rippling;


How is everyone else using this ATO?

 

 

The osmolator comes with two magnents. The second one is for removing the high level sensor and mounting it somewhere else. Using that i was able to mvoe that sensor off somewhere else.

Its still a PITA back there and now im thinking of re-doing the return pump plumbing.

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1 minute ago, reefcadet said:

What are you guys doing for nutrient export?
I've failed at growing chaeto .

looking into maybe a diy algea scrubber or maybe jsut saying F it an running dual media reactors. 

 

The classic double post, apologies. 

waterchanges.

 

Chaeto not growing is usually because there isn't enough nutrients to keep it alive/growing as well as keeping enough nutrients in the tank for the corals. The other issue is lighting, could be too much, not correct spectrum.

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Just now, Clown79 said:

waterchanges.

 

Chaeto not growing is usually because there isn't enough nutrients to keep it alive/growing as well as keeping enough nutrients in the tank for the corals. The other issue is lighting, could be too much, not correct spectrum.

Oh, I have nutrients 😛

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3 hours ago, tranceFusion said:

So how are you guys cleaning in the area under the outer chambers? It’s small even for my normal water change tubing to fit under...

I just take my turkey baster every few weeks and suck up a bit of detritus, otherwise thats it. Theres sponges and stuff back there that are beneficial.

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On 8/13/2020 at 9:55 PM, RRsNano said:

Need some help with a Tunze 3155. I'm using the stock mightyjet desktop pump and it's on the lowest setting but the return chamber is still rippling so it's causing the Tunze sensor to keep coming on every few minutes when it's not evaporating! Thankfully I'm still cycling my tank. I can get a better video if you need it, I just wanted to show the return water rippling;


How is everyone else using this ATO?

 

 

Also man looking at you your pics, looks like your pump is in backwards.
If you took it out and flipped it around so that the output on the pump was closer to the front, i think it would give you more room. 

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