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NanoBox Driver/Fan Control Software Update : How To


DaveFason

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jedimasterben

Yes I do have clouds enabled. That must be it, as the fan usually does stay quiet when the clouds effect is not happening.

 

I do love this cloud effect though..it is incredible. Probably worth the fan noise. Should I still do this update?

You can set your fan speed to a minimum of 100% and see if that fixes it. It should not go lower than your minimum speed at any time unless it is set to zero for off :) (well, that is if you have the updated software on the driver board).

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I am waiting on the parts to come in the mail and then I will update the fan. Id like to see what difference it makes.I do not have the update currently.

 

The cloud effect is so freaking cool that I cant shut it off..lol. Hopefully it helps control the fan better.

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Any update on making it easier for windows?! My part comes Friday and i can't wait to update the Tide

Trying to finish the write up. I have been a little crazy with the past weekend.

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Trying to finish the write up. I have been a little crazy with the past weekend.

 

I can't imagine you crazy... As is I still think you have found a way to clone yourself because I don't know how you have time to make all these lights answer questions fix fan software and post on nano reef.... Keep up the great work
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jedimasterben

Man, I thought I was going to go nuts. I soldered in some pins onto my board (my FTDI cable is female) and connected it up. Compiled the sketch, stuck at uploading for 10 minutes. wtf. So I reboot, update the TimerOne library to see if that would fix it, it didn't, still stuck at uploading. At this point I'm starting to get pissed, the little red LED on the board was lit up, which to me meant 'good connection', so I was like WTF. Then I wondered if I had plugged it in correctly. Yeah, I had it backwards. Whoops. :closedeyes:

 

My first two driver boards updated without a hitch, but nothing to connect to yet to test them lol. If I can ever sit down at work tomorrow I might try and update the driver board that runs the light on the tank there, but I'm not going to remove the board so I can solder the pins in place, just going to pressure fit them like Dave is showing here :)

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Tom@HaslettMI

Added and emailed too.

I just did that. HA!

My programer arrived!

 

However, I'm stuck. The dropbox link isn't working for me... when I click on it it opens a new window with my Dropbox home and says The folder '/NanoBox Driver Software' doesn’t exist.

 

Please help.

 

Tom

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My programer arrived!

 

However, I'm stuck. The dropbox link isn't working for me... when I click on it it opens a new window with my Dropbox home and says The folder '/NanoBox Driver Software' doesn’t exist.

 

Please help.

 

Tom

 

I can confirm the same happens to me. Dave, I think you have to post a public dropbox link. Those ones should be longer like this example:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/onnxh88zwmoo2pu/invalidexample.zip?dl=0
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My programer arrived!

 

However, I'm stuck. The dropbox link isn't working for me... when I click on it it opens a new window with my Dropbox home and says The folder '/NanoBox Driver Software' doesn’t exist.

 

Please help.

 

Tom

 

 

 

 

I can confirm the same happens to me. Dave, I think you have to post a public dropbox link. Those ones should be longer like this example:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/onnxh88zwmoo2pu/invalidexample.zip?dl=0

 

Just emailed you both a zip file. Working on adding this to the website.

-Dave

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Man, I thought I was going to go nuts. I soldered in some pins onto my board (my FTDI cable is female) and connected it up. Compiled the sketch, stuck at uploading for 10 minutes. wtf. So I reboot, update the TimerOne library to see if that would fix it, it didn't, still stuck at uploading. At this point I'm starting to get pissed, the little red LED on the board was lit up, which to me meant 'good connection', so I was like WTF. Then I wondered if I had plugged it in correctly. Yeah, I had it backwards. Whoops. :closedeyes:

 

My first two driver boards updated without a hitch, but nothing to connect to yet to test them lol. If I can ever sit down at work tomorrow I might try and update the driver board that runs the light on the tank there, but I'm not going to remove the board so I can solder the pins in place, just going to pressure fit them like Dave is showing here :)

 

 

Ok pressure fit makes more sense. Soldering is not my forte, and I don't want to do that to a $300 light set that my corals need on. If it is just pressure fit and follow the guide, I do not anticipate too much trouble, but I will wait and see how you folks progress before diving in.

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Ok pressure fit makes more sense. Soldering is not my forte, and I don't want to do that to a $300 light set that my corals need on. If it is just pressure fit and follow the guide, I do not anticipate too much trouble, but I will wait and see how you folks progress before diving in.

Shoot me your email in a PM. I will send a much easier way!

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Tom@HaslettMI

Got the update done! As an FYI when using a MacBook Dave's original directions work best (the "easy" method he emailed me only works with Windows systems). I also had an issue with Arduino defaulting to COM1 and getting an error. If you go to "tools" -> "ports" and select whatever the non-bluetooth option is it worked... at least for me. Sorry I don't recall what it was called.

 

I can now "dim" the fan down below 40% without it shutting off!

 

Thanks Dave!

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Got the update done! As an FYI when using a MacBook Dave's original directions work best (the "easy" method he emailed me only works with Windows systems). I also had an issue with Arduino defaulting to COM1 and getting an error. If you go to "tools" -> "ports" and select whatever the non-bluetooth option is it worked... at least for me. Sorry I don't recall what it was called.

 

I can now "dim" the fan down below 40% without it shutting off!

 

Thanks Dave!

 

Hi Tom. Same here... I had to select the port. I think that step is missing.

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Hi Tom. Same here... I had to select the port. I think that step is missing.

 

 

Got the update done! As an FYI when using a MacBook Dave's original directions work best (the "easy" method he emailed me only works with Windows systems). I also had an issue with Arduino defaulting to COM1 and getting an error. If you go to "tools" -> "ports" and select whatever the non-bluetooth option is it worked... at least for me. Sorry I don't recall what it was called.

 

I can now "dim" the fan down below 40% without it shutting off!

 

Thanks Dave!

Thank you guys! I will add this in there.

-Dave

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  • 3 weeks later...

So if I do the update it will pretty much negate the last plug on my bluefish, that is open but then I won't have to use a wall timer for my fan??

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jedimasterben

So if I do the update it will pretty much negate the last plug on my bluefish, that is open but then I won't have to use a wall timer for my fan??

No, you don't have the hardware required. You'd need to buy the new driver board to use this.

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Dave, if the driver update makes the fan twice as efficient, does that mean the minimum recommended setting can be lowered? I think you said we shouldn't set the fan below 80% during daylight levels. Before doing the driver upgrade, I could never hear the fan. Now I can hear it running, does that mean it's running faster now?

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jedimasterben

Dave, if the driver update makes the fan twice as efficient, does that mean the minimum recommended setting can be lowered? I think you said we shouldn't set the fan below 80% during daylight levels. Before doing the driver upgrade, I could never hear the fan. Now I can hear it running, does that mean it's running faster now?

I have no clue what Dave meant by twice as efficient - the update steps up the PWM frequency from 25kHz to 50kHz, so it is running twice as many cycles but will still have the same total on/off time.

 

Use your hand to determine if you need the fan to run higher - if you can't touch the heatsink for more than a couple of seconds, then it is too hot. :)

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Dave, if the driver update makes the fan twice as efficient, does that mean the minimum recommended setting can be lowered? I think you said we shouldn't set the fan below 80% during daylight levels. Before doing the driver upgrade, I could never hear the fan. Now I can hear it running, does that mean it's running faster now?

Correct running more efficiently.

 

Depending on the levels I would still run 70-80%. It will only better the unit running cooler. I was running the Tides at Reefstock maxed out with the fan running 80% and was barely warm.

 

-Dave

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Hey guys,

Please follow the below to update your driver board for all new models of NanoBox units. This is what you will need.

Step 1 : Go to the Arduino website.

https://www.arduino.cc/

 

24455426749_5d31328a4e.jpgFan Update 1 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 2 : Click download and download the Arduino 1.6.7 for Mac or Windows

 

24823061325_608867d5cc.jpgFan Update 2 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 3 : Open Arduino

 

24194890034_0143e51e27.jpgFan Update 3 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 4 : Your screen should look like this.

 

24196222933_e4241f82b8.jpgFan Update 4 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 5 : Open NanoBox downloaded software

 

24527540130_f630defb5b.jpgFan Update 5 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 6 : Make sure the following file is in the folder. Timer One

 

24455427369_e6d6e5c150.jpgFan Update 6 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 7 : Click Sketch , Include Library, Add .Zip Library

 

24823060015_3b0acf9824.jpgFan Update 7 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 8 : Go to NanoBox software folder and include the " Timer One " folder

 

24823061565_0e0d926e9d.jpgFan Update 8 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 9 : Click Open and select the NanoBox program " Perfected_Fan_Speed_Control.ino

 

24796801046_e31b494aab.jpgFan Update 9 by David Fason, on Flickr

24823060715_13e2a8d6ce.jpgFan Update 10 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 10 : Your screen should look like this.

 

24196222443_80c7219940.jpgFan Update 11 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 11 : Click Tools, then Board and make sure " Arduino/ Genuino Uno " is chosen.

 

24464961589_d2165a3f8c.jpgFan Update 15 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 12 : Click Verify - This is the small check mark high lighted in photo.

 

24823060475_71ec5ba01c.jpgFan Update 12 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 13 :Unscrew the four screws that holds your lid on driver housing. Plug your USB cord into computer, attach FTDI connector to driver board.

 

Attach here :

24537230970_84ddf2f0a4.jpgUntitled by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Connect : Apply some pressure to make sure all pins are connected : As you can see a small red LED light will light when attached.

 

24205909853_b52c6edeb2.jpgUntitled by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 14 : Click upload, this is the arrow that is highlighted in the picture. Also next to verify.

 

24729579531_d21749f0e3.jpgFan Update 13 by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 15 : Let it upload and you are set. The upload will take ~10 seconds and will say upload complete.

 

If you have any errors trying to connect close the Arduino program, restart the program and load the software and try again. Sometimes it takes closing the program and reloading.

 

Software updates :

  • Mini Tide/Flare is 50% more efficient.
  • 0% will turn the fan OFF
  • 100% is the full 12v
  • More adjustment and smoother ramping of fan

If you have any issues please contact me on email! david@nanoboxreef.com

 

If you are not ok with doing this you can send your NanoBox in and I will update for free and mail back.

 

-Dave

Dave ,

this will work on a older version of the Tide too. (One with green LED)

 

Here is the one I have..

 

24093521111_309dc133e0_c.jpg

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jedimasterben

Dave ,

this will work on a older version of the Tide too. (One with green LED)

 

Here is the one I have..

 

24093521111_309dc133e0_c.jpg

No, you have nothing on it to update, as you don't have control of the fans. If you upgraded to the new driver boards, then yes, it would apply. :)

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Correct running more efficiently.

 

Depending on the levels I would still run 70-80%. It will only better the unit running cooler. I was running the Tides at Reefstock maxed out with the fan running 80% and was barely warm.

 

-Dave

Thanks, Dave!

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I am just getting back into this after an 8 mo absence. I've had 3 of dave's lights in the past and just ordered another one. I haven't been following reefing much at all until recently and just noticed that Dave has redesigned the whole series.

 

I've been reading this thread for a couple of weeks now and am confused. Is this saying that those of us who have the old series lights need to do this upgrade to have better fan control or what?

 

How does this change in the design affect a brand new Mini Tide as far as the need to put the fan on a timer. I ordered one with the Storm controller due to the lack of Wi Fi where I live.

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I am just getting back into this after an 8 mo absence. I've had 3 of dave's lights in the past and just ordered another one. I haven't been following reefing much at all until recently and just noticed that Dave has redesigned the whole series.

 

I've been reading this thread for a couple of weeks now and am confused. Is this saying that those of us who have the old series lights need to do this upgrade to have better fan control or what?

 

How does this change in the design affect a brand new Mini Tide as far as the need to put the fan on a timer. I ordered one with the Storm controller due to the lack of Wi Fi where I live.

Not for you. You are all set.

-Dave

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Thanks for the answer Dave. You always jump in before everyone and what are you doing up this late anyway, old guys like you need a lot of sleep LOL.

 

Anyway, does the fan automatically turn off when the lights go out or does it speed up and reduce depending on the set intensity, or do I use a timer for the fan just like older times?

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