pewpewkittah Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 The Finished Product Here's my build for my custom 40B stand. I had a few ideas in mind for the design. Keeping in mind for ample room inside of the stand and a space for the electrical compartment. I didn't want to overbuild this thing with tons of 2x4's... possibly even eliminating them all together. The stand is just a little over 38" long, 19" wide and 36" tall (including 1/2" ply). Just over the 40B demensions. Adding a 2x3 skeleton keeps it very sturdy so I am not relying on the strength of 1/2" ply/birch. Supplies 5x 2X3's Premium White wood $10 2x 4'x8' Birch/plywood $70 2x quarts of Zinsser Oil Based White Primer $12 1x gallon of "Knights Armor" Flat Paint (could of done it easily with 1 quart) $25 2x 2 1/2" Kreg Screws $10 4x Cabinet Hinges $14 1x Box of finishing nails $2 Total cost of this stand was about $150. I needed to purchase a Kreg Jig for an additional $40 + $5 in screws. The tool was expensive, but well worth the cost and time drilling holes. The beginning... I started cutting all the wood on Friday (Jan 1st). I kind of forgot to take a picture of all the wood I cut, but it was 8 legs and two of these top/bottom support pieces. Kreg Jig'n the wood. I bought the tool for this project and I am in love! We screwed and glued every piece of wood together. After assembling the top and bottom, some legs were added to the bottom piece. Making sure every angle was perfect... Please excuse the rusty ass square. All the legs on and the top!!! The front pieces of 2x3's were not placed on the direct corner to allow room for the hinges attaching to the skin ply/birch. It's hard to explain, you'll see later! I couldn't help myself, I had to jump up right after we were finished and place the tank on top Like a glove.... Side Inside detail. Turns out the 20L I had originally bought couldn't fit inside the area and allow for cleaning removal later and I was really stuck on my design. So we went and exchanged it for a 20H. Fits good!! Still room for a custom ATO reservoir on the right side. Night painting First coat. The construction continues below! Here is the design I am following: I am in love with this ADA/Euro design. It allows for a separate area for electrical and lots of room underneath. 1 Quote Link to comment
Newstead Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 That cabinet looks fantastic. Please share when you finish yours! Quote Link to comment
pewpewkittah Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 That cabinet looks fantastic. Please share when you finish yours! Will do! I am gathering the supplies tomorrow and getting most of it built this weekend! Quote Link to comment
rturiak Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Post pictures of your build. I'm about to start building a stand with a 40B footprint. Excited to see yours Quote Link to comment
pewpewkittah Posted January 7, 2016 Author Share Posted January 7, 2016 We got to work first thing on Saturday. Cut all the skin pieces out of 1/2" birch/ply wood! Left to right they are shelf, sides, front/back and top/bottom. After sanding the whole 2x3 piece, we started adding the plywood with finishing nails. Sides, back and front panel on! (Front panel is coping the ADA stand). Bottom on First coat on the inside completed. I forgot to mention that the inside was painted with Oil Based White Primer. Second coat 24 hrs later. Hit the nails with a nail punch and added wood filler to them. Another angle. We still need to sand the outside ply pieces, but are waiting until right before we paint. That's all for now folks. I am constructing the electrical shelf today and will update with more pictures! 1 Quote Link to comment
pewpewkittah Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 I kind of slacked on pictures in the end... I finished it last weekend. Doors attached. This was before the sanding. Shelf was built and attached before we placed nailed the top in. First coat of paint applied after heavy sanding. There was some imperfections that needed to be cleaned up with wood filler and sanding. This picture was taken after that and a second coat of paint. The bottom lip was cleaned up. Painters tape didn't really work. All done! It's not perfect, but I am pretty happy with how it came out. 2 Quote Link to comment
ajmckay Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Sweet azz dude B) Really liking the stand! The color looks like a sort of gray/blue? Maybe it's just the light. Fit and finish look excellent as well. I think you'll like the upper shelf, what do you plan to put in there? I just recently re-did my electric and I'm glad I did... I made it so I'm not re-fishing wires every time I'm plugging something in. So maybe drill a hole in the bottom of the top shelf so you can pass wires down to the sump easily? Finally, it might be a good idea to apply a bead of caulk around the bottom perimeter of the sump area so that if any water spills it won't leak out, or soak into the plywood. Quote Link to comment
olemanwinter Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 I needed to purchase a Kreg Jig for an additional $40 + $5 in screws. The tool was expensive, but well worth the cost and time drilling holes. No kidding. Kreg Jig is worth every penny. Turns the "functional junk" I make into something closer to furniture. Quote Link to comment
MrZ2u Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 No kidding. Kreg Jig is worth every penny. Turns the "functional junk" I make into something closer to furniture. If you arent set up to do mortice and tenon or dont want/need that for your project then Kreg's tool(s) is the absolute next best thing! You dont have to buy their screws either. Get regular phillips screws and a long phillips bit. Their screws are too expensive and not worth it IMO. Skip their plugs as well (if you use them at all) Harbor Freight has a pretty decent flush cut saw for usually less than $10. That with a stick of wood dowel from Lowes Depot is all you need. Go sign up for Rockler's catalog and email. They have a 20% off coupon from time to time and that will save you some coin. Kreg's face clamp is worth getting as well. Its a little spendy for what it is but it makes using the R3 a lot easier...especially when you have a lot to do. Nice work. Looks great! 1 Quote Link to comment
pewpewkittah Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Sweet azz dude B) Really liking the stand! The color looks like a sort of gray/blue? Maybe it's just the light. Fit and finish look excellent as well. I think you'll like the upper shelf, what do you plan to put in there? I just recently re-did my electric and I'm glad I did... I made it so I'm not re-fishing wires every time I'm plugging something in. So maybe drill a hole in the bottom of the top shelf so you can pass wires down to the sump easily? Finally, it might be a good idea to apply a bead of caulk around the bottom perimeter of the sump area so that if any water spills it won't leak out, or soak into the plywood. Thanks so much! It means a lot The color of the stand is actually a dark grey. It's called Knights Armor by Olympic. I wanted it to resemble an ADA stand, but didn't want to go with the typical light grey considering I have a 2yr old equipped with markers. I already love the shelf. It'll keep the sump area clean. I am planning on keeping all electrical components within that shelf, including the rack mount power strip with individual switches. I can hide the majority of the cords behind it, while still allowing me to turn off individual parts. The back of the shelf actually does have an invisible 2" gap behind the back portion to allow cords to pass through between the sump area and shelf. I didn't want to have a hole in the shelf. I've seen other people use chalk as well. What is it called specifically? Is it found in the plumbers section at a home improvement store? No kidding. Kreg Jig is worth every penny. Turns the "functional junk" I make into something closer to furniture. I know what you mean. I moved it into my room and it's making my other furniture look sub-par, haha. If you arent set up to do mortice and tenon or dont want/need that for your project then Kreg's tool(s) is the absolute next best thing! You dont have to buy their screws either. Get regular phillips screws and a long phillips bit. Their screws are too expensive and not worth it IMO. Skip their plugs as well (if you use them at all) Harbor Freight has a pretty decent flush cut saw for usually less than $10. That with a stick of wood dowel from Lowes Depot is all you need. Go sign up for Rockler's catalog and email. They have a 20% off coupon from time to time and that will save you some coin. Kreg's face clamp is worth getting as well. Its a little spendy for what it is but it makes using the R3 a lot easier...especially when you have a lot to do. Nice work. Looks great! Good point on the screws. I went with the Kreg Jig brand screws because they were also weather resistant, which when dealing with salt water is almost a necessity. I didn't want to skimp out on an important structural component. I thought about purchasing the Kreg Jig brand hole plugs, but I decided I didn't really mind them in there and it wasn't worth my time. Lol. But I did use the few I got in the Kreg Jig kit on the holes that were most visible. I was going to purchase the face clamp, but for $30+ it's not worth the money. I had several good quality wood clamps that worked perfectly, only needed one to keep it snug in place. I guess this is because I got the Jr. version, but with the full kit I suppose the face clamp would need to be used. Thank you! Quote Link to comment
ajmckay Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Just get any latex caulk or silicone from the hardware store... Doesn't have to be anything specific but should probably be exterior rated. Quote Link to comment
pewpewkittah Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 Just get any latex caulk or silicone from the hardware store... Doesn't have to be anything specific but should probably be exterior rated. So will GE #1 Clear Silicone work? I already have some laying around for building my sump... Quote Link to comment
ajmckay Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 So will GE #1 Clear Silicone work? I already have some laying around for building my sump... For sealing the joints in your stand? Certainly that will work just fine. Just make sure you do it after you're completely finished with painting because you can't paint over silicone. Quote Link to comment
pewpewkittah Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 For sealing the joints in your stand? Certainly that will work just fine. Just make sure you do it after you're completely finished with painting because you can't paint over silicone. Good to know! Thanks so much for all the advice Quote Link to comment
jmccoy62003 Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 Perfect stand! Quote Link to comment
TrevN64 Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Looks great! I actually have a few stands in this style. I chose to use 3/4 furniture grade plywood. Even on my 75 stand works great. I think we tend to overbuild stands. Quote Link to comment
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