Reefkid88 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 I followed a picture online to try and get all my solders right,but the light won't fire up when plugged up. Everything is powered by 1 700mA LDD and a CLG-150-36A. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 I'm not seeing a complete circuit here. that may be the issue. Also some if those wires are a little naked looking where they hang over the boards so they're might be an issue there. Link to comment
Marc.The.Shark Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 You're missing a wire from the "-" on the WW in the top left to the "+" on the RB in the top right of photo Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 I'm not seeing a complete circuit here. that may be the issue. Also some if those wires are a little naked looking where they hang over the boards so they're might be an issue there. Where'd I mess up at ? As for the wire,I know for sure 2 wires need to be cut down.. I just got careless. You're missing a wire from the "-" on the WW in the top left to the "+" on the RB in the top right of photo Oh wow... I honestly over looked that.. The f*ck.. Thanks for that. I assume I can just fix that by running a connection from the WW neg to the RB pos to complete the circuit ? Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 That should be the fix. That still didn't fix it. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 You still dont have a complete circuit no matter where you connect the top LED. Follow the blue input wire and make sure every LED has two connections soldered. EDIT: Yeah, you could if you connected the top white to the top right royal. Link to comment
Caravanshaka Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 have you tested the individual LED's? The center LED has a yellow stain (presumably from flux) that goes all the way around the Diode. Also, since you have an LDD, are you sending a PWM signal to it during testing? It won't light the LED's without a signal. a Picture of the driver/power supply wiring might help as well. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Also, since you have an LDD, are you sending a PWM signal to it during testing? It won't light the LED's without a signal. a Picture of the driver/power supply wiring might help as well. If the LDD is an H model and on a board with pulldown resistors, this is true, but if it is just a bare LDD then it will 'float high' with no PWM signal. Link to comment
Caravanshaka Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 If the LDD is an H model and on a board with pulldown resistors, this is true, but if it is just a bare LDD then it will 'float high' with no PWM signal. True, I am used to working with them mounted to a coralux board, and forget about the pulldown resistor Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Look for cold solder joints too. those can be a pita Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 ^ This. Some of those don't look great, not that I can do much better Link to comment
Sunstar Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 My husband says disconnect the power and each LED, then check to see by touching the leads if you've possibly fried one. Link to comment
Fnard Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 EDIT: Yeah, you could if you connected the top white to the top right royal. This. Haven't complete the circuit yet. Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 im.a.idiot. I figured out my problem.... Looks like I'm going to order a Typhon and try my luck again with them again. Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 This may be a outrageous thought,but could I turn my H versions of my ldd's into a W version by just soldering a wire to the pins I need to use ? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 This may be a outrageous thought,but could I turn my H versions of my ldd's into a W version by just soldering a wire to the pins I need to use ? Why would you do that? Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Why would you do that? So I can use them without a coralux board lol ?! Because without the pull down resistors they'd get power,like my old light I had the W's and when I disconnected the storm,they'd go full power. Is it do'able ? Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Why would you do that? Look Ben,it works I held it over the 2 gallon real quick and honestly,it's SUPER white. Barley any blue. And the TCB's I got from LGB look Royal Blue.. Hmm.. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 So I can use them without a coralux board lol ?! Because without the pull down resistors they'd get power,like my old light I had the W's and when I disconnected the storm,they'd go full power. Is it do'able ? Just break off the resistors. Look Ben,it works I held it over the 2 gallon real quick and honestly,it's SUPER white. Barley any blue. And the TCB's I got from LGB look Royal Blue.. Hmm.. Yeah, those blue chips are definitely all the same and all blue. The XT-E royals are on a completely different looking star PCB now. Hopefully you meant it to be like that lol Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Just break off the resistors. Yeah, those blue chips are definitely all the same and all blue. The XT-E royals are on a completely different looking star PCB now. Hopefully you meant it to be like that lol I'm assuming they're what are labeled R1 and R2 on the back of the board ? No,not at all. They were supposed to be RB's from what I remember taking them off of the light as. I guess I'll just order 2x Luxeon RB's or Semi RB's from Steve's and swap them out. Idk,or replace the HV in the middle with a white and put royal's in the whites places. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I'm assuming they're what are labeled R1 and R2 on the back of the board ? No,not at all. They were supposed to be RB's from what I remember taking them off of the light as. I guess I'll just order 2x Luxeon RB's or Semi RB's from Steve's and swap them out. Idk,or replace the HV in the middle with a white and put royal's in the whites places. When were they ordered? I can't remember when the switch was made to the Bergquist stars, but hopefully they won't be around long. They're supposed to be 'high-end' but they're pre-tinned with lead-free solder which is retarded. Give me lead, baby! Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 When were they ordered? I can't remember when the switch was made to the Bergquist stars, but hopefully they won't be around long. They're supposed to be 'high-end' but they're pre-tinned with lead-free solder which is retarded. Give me lead, baby! I ordered the TCB's from LGB last week if that's what you were talking about,as for the RB's,idk they were on the light when this guy Tom from here built it for me. They are on just a plain white board.so the origin idk. Wait,which boards are you talking about ? Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 Just break off the resistors.I'm assuming these are the resistors ? Labeled R1 and R2 ? Link to comment
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