ojyarumaru Posted July 3, 2005 Share Posted July 3, 2005 Anyone use a Poenix bulb for this? Link to comment
Samc Posted July 4, 2005 Share Posted July 4, 2005 Check the step by step thread. The phoenix bulbs weren't in existince, but their is a list of known compaitable bulbs with the M102 ballast. I personally have been using a coralife/coralvue bulb fine for 8 months. XM's have the most par, in general (not to sure about the 15k's, their only several months old on the 150 watt side). If you have a M81, or and electronic ballast, their are NO BULB COMPAITABLITY PROBLEMS, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED BY THE BULB MANUFACTURER. Only worry if you went the cheaper M102 route. Sam Link to comment
Samc Posted July 4, 2005 Share Posted July 4, 2005 NM. Check page two. This is the thread I was talking about. You can add coralife/coralvue to that list. Link to comment
jmt Posted July 4, 2005 Author Share Posted July 4, 2005 I'm glad this is helping y'all. It took me a month to compile all the info . Link to comment
jmt Posted July 4, 2005 Author Share Posted July 4, 2005 Wiring diagram. Key: OG Color -> Representation Black -> Teal Green -> Green White -> Grey Yellow -> Yellow (Sometimes red). Link to comment
ojyarumaru Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 Thanks. I just bought the M102 ballast, and I think I'll go with the XM 15k b/c it's on sale @ hellolights. Link to comment
neanderthalman Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 I don't have much experience with MH ballasts, but if it's similar to a fluorescent ballast, there's an issue with your diagram. You've drawn the black (120V live) wire as wiring directly to the bulb, then the white (neutral) wire wiring to the ballast. Typically, with other ballasts, the black wire would connect to the ballast, then a red, yellow, or blue wire from the ballast would go to the bulb. The white neutral wire would go straight to the bulb, sometimes it would go to the bulb AND the ballast. Is the wiring of a MH ballast fundamentally different than a fluorescent ballast? Link to comment
jmt Posted July 5, 2005 Author Share Posted July 5, 2005 AC stands for alternating current. The term implies that electricity can flow forwards and backwards through the circuit. So, technically, there is no + and - wire. But, if it makes you feel better, you can wire it that way. Link to comment
neanderthalman Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 You're right, AC does stand for alternating current...but in the electrical industry, there is what is called the National Electrical Code - in the US. In Canada, we have provincial electrical codes, but the material within them, and the NEC, is nearly identical. The NEC requires that all switching be done on the ungrounded side of a load, except in unusual circumstances. What that means, is that any lightswitch, timer, or ballast must be on the ungrounded side of a load, in this case, the bulb. Since the neutral of your home's wiring is grounded, all switching, including the ballast, should be wired on the live side - the black wire. You may notice that I never called them + and -. Link to comment
kentmoney Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 can that same regent fixture be used for a 70W halide? do i still have to cut the socket to run a 70W bulb? Link to comment
jmt Posted July 6, 2005 Author Share Posted July 6, 2005 Yes, you can use the same regent. No, do not cut the socket. Just chisel the ceramic away so that the bulb will fit. neanderthalman: It's nice to see someone who knows a little extra. So, sorry for the "newb" response. I've set up the ballasts both ways with similar results. When I talked to a friend's dad (certified electrician), he just advised me to make sure I always had it earth grounded. But then again, you are from Canada. : Link to comment
neanderthalman Posted July 7, 2005 Share Posted July 7, 2005 Damn us Canucks and our metric system Take your next trip in kilometers, they're shorter, so you'll get there faster..... The grounding is absolutely more important than whether you've switched the live side or the neutral side. The light will work either way, but there's some safety reasons as to why you should wire a switch on the live side of a load. What can happen if you put the switch on the neutral side, instead of the live side, is that if you have a short circuit between the light and switch (or ballast), the light will turn on. With a light, it doesn't really matter if a short circuit makes it work, unless 120V put directly across a MH bulb will damage it. If it does, it'll destroy your bulb, which sucks because you could have wired the switch on the live side with exactly the same effort/cost/time spent. If you wire the switch on the live side, a short circuit will just trip the breaker, without damaging your light. No reason to risk it, unless you know for certain that 120V won't damage the bulb. I don't think it would...but you never know. This is more important with machinery. If, say, a start button was wired on the neutral, a loose wire that falls out and touches the box will start the machine suddenly. It might kill somebody in the process. If the same button is on the live side, a wire that falls out will either blow a fuse, trip a breaker, or keep the machine from starting at all. Link to comment
jmt Posted July 7, 2005 Author Share Posted July 7, 2005 Sounds convincing enough. OG post edited. Link to comment
Haagenize Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 where do you guys get the 500w Regent Halogen Light Fixture ... i dont see anywhere where you can get it for less the $100 Link to comment
neanderthalman Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 Try Home Depot / Lowes. I got mine for seven dollars. Link to comment
Samc Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 They are cheapest at wal mart. The ones you are seeing for $100 are probably the ballasted versions, which you don't want (unless it has a metal halide ballast, which would be cool). BTW, the coralvue reeflux series runs fine on the M102 ballast, and looks GREAT too! Pure white!! Sam Link to comment
Haagenize Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 where in wal-mart do you go to get a reagent halogen light fixture lol? Link to comment
neanderthalman Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 the lighting department....... Link to comment
Samc Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 Also known as the hardware section. They have the EXACT same ones at wal mart as they do at lowes for $4 less! Link to comment
Reefgeek Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Anyone try a phoenix on an m102 yet? Link to comment
Samc Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Not yet... b/c the coralvue reeflux 10k has more par for a better color imo. However, it will MORE THAN LIKELY work, since the majority of bulbs do. Sam Link to comment
Reefgeek Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Well, I'll let you know as I just bought one. Link to comment
reefman23 Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Do those coralvue reeflux come in a 70 watt version? I have yet to see one. Jesse Link to comment
chrisstankevitz Posted October 7, 2006 Share Posted October 7, 2006 Well, I'll let you know as I just bought one. How did it go? Thanks. I just bought the M102 ballast, and I think I'll go with the XM 15k b/c it's on sale @ hellolights. How did it go? Link to comment
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