melcolm Posted July 23, 2004 Author Share Posted July 23, 2004 trmiv - there is no gurgling because i installed a 90 deg elbow to the rear box bulkhead...it stops the air from getting into the water stream. myfisharemean - That would not work because you would lose your siphon when the intake box empties out, or when air gets in through the sump end. If your sump was about the same waterlevel as your tank, then you might get something working. Link to comment
trmiv Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 What kind of pump do you have feeding the return? I see SCWD on there, do you get good flow with it? Overflows and sumps scare me though, I don't want it to flood. Link to comment
Perpetual98 Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Does that thing self prime at all once it's been going?if it's set up right, the ends of the U-tube should remain under water all the time, even during a power outtage, or am I on crack again? Link to comment
quiksilver5768 Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 where can I get some of this paint that you uys were referring to? Link to comment
revance Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Perpetual98: If you look at the pictures you will see that the end of the U-tube on the sump side is below the drain, so if the power goes out it will keep the siphon... or at least it looks like it is. Link to comment
melcolm Posted July 23, 2004 Author Share Posted July 23, 2004 trmiv - it's got great flow, i'm using a Mag 5, and even have the use of a ball joint before the tank return because flow rate is too high! without the ball joint, i get a sand storm. Perpetual98 - revance was right on the money. You only need to prime it once and the siphon is set. The flow-rate is soo good, that any air bubbles that get into the U-Tube is shot straight out the back end, so I have very little worries that this thing will flood on me. quiksilver5768 - you can get it at K-Mart. Krylon Fusion rocks! i use it on a piece of plexi that I cut to the size of the tank's back...I painted the plexi to fade blue to darkblue by masking the layer with black paint. Now I can change the background colors by replacing the piece of plexi. Link to comment
myfisharemean Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 The bottoms are gonna be about even, and the fuge is gonna be a 5, and the tank's a 10 hex. I was gonna have a U-tube attched to a aquaclear (or like) surface skimmer, then run it straight to the tank, with the venturi-siphon-starter thing on it. Then I saw your post and thought that would be better than the surface skimmer. Link to comment
quiksilver5768 Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 could you use this krylon fusion paint on pvc fitings? I would like to paint my bright white pvc fittings which act as a part of my return for my sump black... Link to comment
melcolm Posted July 26, 2004 Author Share Posted July 26, 2004 quiksilver5768 - I wouldn't try it because the paint could release chemicals in the water...but I'm no expert. Start another thread for PVC paint. I've seen PVC paint available online, but it's pretty pricy. Link to comment
jimbro Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 melcolm, how much would you say the whole thing cost you? i went lookin for those specimen containers at lfs today and man, what a rip off. the only one i found them at they wanted like 20 bucks for two Link to comment
melcolm Posted July 28, 2004 Author Share Posted July 28, 2004 jimbofromfrag - costs (from memory): - From LFS - 1 Lee's medium specimin container (intake) ~ $8 1 Lee's Large specimin container (rear) ~$5 1 U-Tube (for siphon action) ~$4 - From HomeDepot - 1 acrylic bolt/wingnut (to attach the intake box to the piece of plexi) ~ $2 1 PVC 1" male adapter ~ $0.45 1 PVC 1" female adapter ~ $0.45 1 rubber gasket to fit under the rear box through PVC ~ $0.45 - Other - 1 scrap piece of plexi (to hold the intake box) ~ $free +a small sheet would cost you about $3 at Home Depot. TOTAL : about $20 - $25 Link to comment
myfisharemean Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 I'm gonna make one of those with a durso! Link to comment
trmiv Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 If I owned a dremel, I'd do this. But with the cost of the dremel, I might as well just buy one off of ebay. Either way, this is an awesome DIY. Link to comment
scottd34 Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 What size tank is that on in the first set of pics? I was thinking of doing an overflow to a sump to get the unsightly stuff out of my 10 gal, but most overflows I see are way too big. This may just work... Link to comment
jimbro Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 any way you could do this without a dremel? or do you think the plastic would crack? Link to comment
Perpetual98 Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 You could probably cut notches with a table saw if you've got one. That's how I got notches in the baffles of my sump. Link to comment
jimbro Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 cool. i think i'm gonna go ahead with this little project. i've been dyin to add a sump w a dsb and fuge to my 20 long. plus the added water volume might let me add one more fish to the tank (only 3 so far). thanks Link to comment
trmiv Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 In the first post it says you need a large container and medium one. I can't seem to find the medium one. I can find small and large, but not medium. Is it the small one I need? Also, where do I get that tubing to go from the overflow to the sump? Link to comment
melcolm Posted August 4, 2004 Author Share Posted August 4, 2004 trmiv - it is indeed the small one you speak of. I matched the SKU# in my picture with the one listed here: Product Link and I use tubing that is similar to the one listed here: Tubing You should be able to use PVC piping to route the overflow to your sump area with ease. Link to comment
jimbro Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 ok. one more (stupid) question. how did you get a water tight seal on the outside box? i tried using an o-ring at the bottom of the male adapter (inside the box) but can't screw the female piece on tight enough to get a seal. what kind of gasket did you use and did you put it inside the box or outside? any other ideas you got would be appreciated, too. thanks jim Link to comment
melcolm Posted August 9, 2004 Author Share Posted August 9, 2004 jimbofromfrag - I had the same problems getting the male-female PVC to fit tightly on the thin plastic walls. The trick is to find a thick rubber gasket at the hardware store. I couldn't find one with the right size inner diameter in stock, so I got an oversized one and cut the center out. I used both teflon paste and teflon tape to use on the PVC threads. The paste is used as a lubricant/sealant, and the teflon tape was just a double safeguard. You'll find tightening the PVC will be much easier using the paste. Link to comment
lro67 Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 can u post a closer pic of the bulkhead ? Link to comment
mrnewbie Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 Originally posted by speakeraddict Should flow between 200 and 300 gph safely. We used to build these all the time in the 90's. I ran two on a 74 gallon custom I built and it worked great. I put a piece of airline attached to a check valve at the peak of the u-tube then attached it to the venturi input of a power head. That way, if the power went out, the siphon started automatically. speakeraddict best advice seen in this thread yet also take note of this design i will be building 1 like this for myself but will be adding an airline from the overflow tube connected to a power head just in case FULL ORIGINAL ARTICLE HERE Link to comment
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