Help with Aurora Puck and Bluefish

[smiz]

So I am not super technical but I have run into a few snags while setting up my bluefish. I am running a four channel Aurora Puck off of four 0-10v Nano Dimmable Drivers. While setting everything up I can not get my lights to go off 100%! I have PWM Mode on but it will not fully shut off. Also a less crucial issue I have is that the display color is not staying after I set it. It is just defaulting to a grey, no matter where I put it. If anyone has run into similar problems or has some input on my problems I would appreciate the input! Also I'm not super technical so it might be something dumb lol.

[jedimasterben]

I don't know of any analog AC-DC drivers that shut off when they receive a '0' signal. You will need a relay.

 

In addition, 0-10v is analog, not PWM, but this won't help you. You'll probably only be able to hit 10-12% on the lights at the lowest.

[SpencerShepard]

So I am not super technical but I have run into a few snags while setting up my bluefish. I am running a four channel Aurora Puck off of four 0-10v Nano Dimmable Drivers. While setting everything up I can not get my lights to go off 100%! I have PWM Mode on but it will not fully shut off. Also a less crucial issue I have is that the display color is not staying after I set it. It is just defaulting to a grey, no matter where I put it. If anyone has run into similar problems or has some input on my problems I would appreciate the input! Also I'm not super technical so it might be something dumb lol.

Please PM me your username and I will have a look at your settings.

[smiz]

I don't know of any analog AC-DC drivers that shut off when they receive a '0' signal. You will need a relay.

 

In addition, 0-10v is analog, not PWM, but this won't help you. You'll probably only be able to hit 10-12% on the lights at the lowest.

Jedi, keep in mind I don't know much about the topic, but I'm curious why when my potentiometer is attached it will dim to 0 but when this is attached it can only go to 10%

[DC5]

On my build, using 10k pots and Meanwells, it did not dim all the way down...however, now hooked to he Bluefish, the strings are brighter when "off" than before. I assumed the pot was sucking up some of the power, but mine never dimmed to zero.

 

So, until I get my LDD drivers, I put my white LED string on a timer, so the meanwell comes on 5 minutes prior to the Bluefish morning cycle, and it is set to go off 5 mins after the night cycle ends in order to pull out that glow.

[jedimasterben]

I don't know what to tell you, honestly. As far as I know, drivers only have one way to dim them and if they support multiple input signals (resistance, 0-10v, PWM, etc) then it just converts to another. With resistance it may cut off at 10-11%, but with a 0-10v external signal it might not.

 

The only drivers that will cut off with a '0' signal from a controller would be the LDD, ELN 'P', and drivers like Steve's LEDs drivers, the rest would need a relay.

[SpencerShepard]

I've set up a Bluefish unit for a client using Mean Well ELN-60-48D, and they turn off completely without a relay.

 

Nope, scratch that. I just checked with my client and he has his drivers connected to a powerbar on a timer. I thought I remembered being able to turn them off with just the Bluefish controller but I must be wrong.

[jedimasterben]

I've set up a Bluefish unit for a client using Mean Well ELN-60-48D, and they turn off completely without a relay.

You sure it is -D and not -P?

[DC5]

My blue string, on the controller, is pretty much off...very, very, dim and you can't detect any light. The Veros are the ones that are shedding some more light now after I removed the pot, but that was easy enough to work around.

 

I am fully on board with moving to LDD personally, seeing as they are a better choice for this application.